South Africa - Worcester and Surrounds

A small-holding in the fresh country air sounded like a great idea so off we set on a week-end meander to Worcester and surrounds, about 2 hours from Cape Town. Firstly, take the old road over Du Toits Kloof Pass - it's a very scenic road over the mountains and does not add more than about 12 km to your journey plus you save on the Toll Fee for the tunnel. My love for mountains is inspired by growing up in the Oudtshoorn valley where my eyes rested on the magnificent Swartberg Mountain range every time I walked onto our large veranda or into the garden.

Our stay was on a small holding, which bordered on a wine farm, so we took long walks down the farm road, followed by a friendly black Scottie dog. We saw many ground squirrel holes but no signs of life although our little friend certainly did loads of sniffing and most probably drove them further away down the hole for safety!

 Our first outing was to the Karoo Desert National Botanical Gardens. This garden is at it's best during springtime when all the vygies and fynbos flower and create a stunning display. There are lovely views over towards Worcester, picnic areas on the lawns and a hiking trail around the "koppie"  Unfortunately, the folk of Worcester are not the "eating out" types and the restaurant at the entrance to the gardens has closed down. So we would not recommend a visit to these gardens unless it is springtime with all the lovely flowers blooming. The gardens  are also quite difficult to find - it seems the Worcester residents are not too keen on tourism and are quite happy with their status quo.

The Quiver Trees are large Aloes which flower during the winter months. These trees are normally found in very arid regions such as Namibia, and the Northern Cape, often in rocky habitats. The flowers attract nectar seeking birds such as sun-birds and mouse birds. It's a succulent plant which can store water in it's trunk and leaves for those harsh periods when little or no rain falls in the desert.
The San people used to hollow out the branches to use them as quivers, hence the English name for the "Kokerboom" tree.

The wild grape is another interesting plant found in the gardens - these are about 25 years old and were grown from seed gathered in Namibia.

Our next trip was via a dirt road through Eilandia region in the direction of  Robertson.  A very scenic drive through farmlands.

Robertson was very busy and will be another visit (it seems to have more going for it than Worcester!)





We had to find the Conradie Family Cellar before close as we had orders from Cape Town folk! This family vineyard is situated in the Nuy Valley, at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains, and the farm has been in the family since 1871. It is currently run by a fifth generation winemaker who took over wine making again in 2004 after his grand-father last produced in 1964. A proud tradition and award winning wines are now currently on sale.  The Nuy Restaurant and Guest House is situated just across the road and we were after a light lunch. Although there were many cars parked in the parking area, nobody was around to assist us and the restaurant was all beautifully set with nobody in sight!! Another disappointment! But at least we had the wines safely in the boot! By now we were starving after just muesli for breakfast so we headed off towards the Willow Creek Olive Estate and Deli. Guess what? The restaurant was securely locked and barred and even the lady in the next door Deli said " Gosh, they did not even say good-bye!!!"

So off we set again with stomachs rumbling and getting grumpier by the minute. With all the wine farms around but no food? One cannot live on wine alone. Although some make argue with me on that point. The charming lady in the Deli recommended Overhex Wine Cellar for lunch so off we set once again.

Over-Hex was OPEN - HURRAY - FOOD IN WORCESTER!! We managed to secure a table outside in the brilliant sunshine and enjoyed their home-made burgers. For the beer lovers - they don't have any so be warned - only wine. The burgers were very filling, tasty and the service was excellent so this restaurant certainly gets my vote. The menu is very limited but, hey, they serve food and they were OPEN!!! Apparently, their Sunday lunches are very popular and the inside seating looks welcoming and cosy. 

Tummies filled, we set off to see if there were still autumn leaves in the wonderful Hex River Valley. It's not very far from Worcester on the N1 and the valley is simply incredible.

Hex River Valley is world-renowned as the biggest producer of table grapes in South Africa. It also hosts the biggest pre-cooler in the Southern Hemisphere. Grapes need to be transported to their markets so, in order to do this with minimum damage, the grapes need to be pre-cooled before being packed and delivered/shipped etc. The De Doorns Cellar also has the longest harvest season in the world. The Matroosberg Mountain is the highest mountain peak in the Western Cape.
Originally, there were 6 farmers granted land in the Hex River Valley. Today this has been sub-divided into nearly 150. The valley is just row upon row of vines with the staff housing dotted on the edge of the fields. It was a sunny Saturday afternoon and we saw loads of children happily playing, women and young girls chatting whilst walking between various farm housing, the elderly sitting in the sun  - the sad part was also many drunken men staggering around. We spotted a "Temporary Shelter for Abused Children" - no doubt caused by drunken parents. It's such a shame to see this in a valley which is appears so scenic, tranquil and calm.on the outside. Many of the farm workers houses boasted spanking brand new solar panels for their hot water and, with the mountains surrounding them and the amazing autumn colours on the vines, one would think it was a little slice of heaven. Maybe not for those who dream of escaping the confines of the valley.

For hikers and bikers, there are numerous trails in this part of the world - for photographers, the Hex River Valley is a dream. For those looking to eat out at funky restaurants all week-end, as an escape from the home kitchen, forget!! You will have to travel to Robertson, McGregor or Franschoek.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Walk to Kleinplaas Dam, Red Hill, Simonstown

As Capetonians, we are very lucky to live in a city that truly has it all. Cosmopolitan, vibey, stunningly beautiful and with so much to do no matter what you favourite pastime may be.

NB: Please take care when hiking - go in a group or contact a local hiking club for up-to-date Safety Information.

For those who enjoy a ramble in the winter sunshine, try the lovely, easy walk up to Kleinplaas Dam.
Built in 1964 to supply water to Simonstown, the wall was extended in 1970. It was built on the site of the Klein Plaats farm hence the name "small" dam. With lovely shining white beaches, its an ideal stop for a picnic or paddle. You can continue your hike from the dam - there are various paths and you are likely to see the odd horse being ridden along here or taking a welcome drink from the dam!

Accessible from Red Hill, Simonstown, you will first pass the deserted Red Hill Village which was forcefully abandoned when Simonstown was declared a "Whites Only" area under the apartheid government. Apparently the residents of this village removed doors and windows when they left - and who can blame them? It has been the site of a Land Claim and payments of approx. R14,000.00 were received by previous residents in 1989. Originally, a small farming village, the broken down ruins must hold many stories and memories of tears and laughter. It's a peaceful, quiet spot - an ideal place for a growing family to run free as birds. Sadly, only the ruins remain, a remnant of our chequered history.

This walk offers many spectacular vistas, amazing rock formations and even the odd cave or two. In springtime, the fynbos will be blooming and offer different scenes yet again.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Ceres - Two Passes Sunday Drive

Ceres conjures up images of Ceres Fruit juice, autumn colours and snow-capped mountains! We did a  leisurely drive towards Ceres, first going up the Michells Pass. This is the southern entrance to Ceres and the pass was built by Andrew Geddes Bain, with completion in 1848. Our first stop, on a cold morning, was at the Tolhuis Restaurant where were sat in front of a blazing fire and enjoyed delicious freshly baked scones with cheese and jam! The Tolhouse was a pay point for all traffic to the Kimberley Diamond fields and was declared a National Monument in 1972. Standing in the midst of the mountains with a disused railway line heading into the unknown, one can just imagine the many wagons rolling towards the rich pickings of Kimberley Diamond fields. The lonely ghost of the Tolhuis is a lady with a long plait, swirling robes of another era and is seen from time to time. Apparently she is not an evil ghost but rather a lost soul who has not yet been able to abandon the area. Maybe she was waiting for a lover to return laden with diamonds and he was ambushed and killed on his way back to her? Perhaps she died of a broken heart or influenza waiting for so long in the cold of these mountains. Or maybe she was murdered by one of the many convicts used to blast out the pass. Who knows? It's rather sad that she has not found her way out of Tolhuis to a better, warmer place.

The Ceres Valley is truly a valley of fruitfulness - with it's deciduous fruit production, you can do a tour to watch fruit packing and the drying of fruit, or stay over on a working fruit farm to experience it personally. During November to December, you can enjoy cherry picking on Kondyke Cheery Farm.The valley also grown onions - not quite so interesting!

Our next pass was the Gydo Pass which is the Northern entrance to Ceres, The views are spectacular across the Ceres Valley and with autumn colours in full bloom, a carpet of various shades of red lay before us on the valley floor. This pass links the Warm Bokkeveld with the Koue Bokkeveld.

Whilst taking a photo on the way down, we heard an almighty bang and discovered a motor-cyclist had come off his bike and was lying in the road. The Police were on the scene before we even got down the mountain and the ambulance was not too far behind. The chap seemed able to move his legs so maybe his pride was hurt more than his body. We hope so! Rather an abrupt ending to his ride from Cape Town on a sunny Sunday. One wonders how he got his bike back home?

We headed next towards Tulbagh. This valley was first discovered in 1658 by European settlers. The town was developed in 1743. A major earthquake in 1969 ruined many buildings and 32 of these in Church Street have been restored and are now all National Monuments - the largest concentration of monuments in any one street in South Africa. The town hosts an annual Christmas in Winter Festival which brings in many week-enders. Given the extreme heat in summer, a hot Christmas dinner is not ideal in Tulbagh! Church Street was very dead when we arrived so after a short stroll we headed back home to our week-end B&B in Riebeek Kasteel. To be honest, Riebeek Kasteel seems to have more action on a more regular basis than Tulbach, but maybe we just chose the wrong day! Empty restaurants do not appeal and the one we did walk into had no serving staff visible so we walked out again. However, there are wine farms to visit and it is a peaceful village if you are looking for some R&R time. Church Street is certainly worth a wander with many of the monuments now B& B's.

Heading back towards Riebeek Kasteel we took a gravel road from Gouda - truly in the country! We came across a wonderful old, single lane bridge where we stopped for photos  Whist standing on the bridge a solitary car came past and the occupants stared at us as if they could not believe what they were seeing - a white couple walking??? Unheard of! Then they nearly drove into our car parked on the other side of the bridge! Oh well, that was their Sunday afternoon's excitement. In these farming communities, thew workers are often very drunk by Friday night and the party continues until Sunday. One has to take care as they are often staggering across the road. many pedestrians are killed in this manner, especially at night when it is difficult to spot a staggering drunk. During the week, these same workers are a friendly bunch and will always give a smile and a wave!

One could spend far more time in this area than we did - this is just to whet your appetite to go exploring - take those gravel roads - your car can always be washed afterwards!

As they say "Going Nowhere Slowly" is sometimes simply the best!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Riebeek Kasteel, The Village Atmosphere

Riebeek Kasteel, one of the hidden treasures of the Western Cape, is only an hour from Cape Town and transports you back to a slower pace immediately as you drive into the village. Imagine the glorious sight that welcomed the first explorers to this valley as early as 1661 - with wild game roaming free it must have been a sight to behold and a picturesque valley just waiting to be farmed.
The town was laid out in 1900 and has retained it's village atmosphere to this day - let's hope it stays as welcoming and rural  - a perfect getaway for a slow week-end or a lazy Sunday lunch.
The Main Street appeared on a map as far back as 1861 and was a route towards Tulbagh. The current square was designated already by 1911 as a market square and today it is lined on both sides by restaurants and interesting shops.

The Allesveloren farm was granted to Gerrit Cloete in 1704 after having first served as a VOC outpost. This wine farm is famous for it's red wine, port and restaurant where families and friends can gather for a leisurely wine tasting or lunch. Make a stop!

Klovenburg is another wine and olive farm granted to Jan Botma is 1704 and still producing today.
The valley is also known for it's olives and an olive festival is held each year. The village gets packed so be sure to book your accommodation well in advance. The variety of tastes are incredible! The Olive Boutique is open all year round if you miss the Olive Festival week-end.

Just don't try picking olives straight off the trees - they are so disgusting and bitter that you will spit them out faster than you picked them. So theft is not an issue! The various secret recipes for the brine make the olives unique and their tastes many and varied.
For the more energetic there are cycle routes and hiking trails - be sure to get your permit from the Tourism Office and enjoy the views from the top of the Kasteelberg Mountain which dominates the scene above Riebeek Kasteel.

The Royal Hotel - this beautiful, old Colonial hotel is the oldest in the Western Cape and has the longest "stoep" (veranda) south of the Limpopo! One is truly transported back to a bygone era when visiting this hotel. Pop in for a drink at the 150 year old bar or enjoy lunch in the gardens. Bikers, expensive cars, passing tourists - you name it, this hotel has visitors from all walks of life - just don't try to play on the old piano on the veranda - with keys yellow and stained, it's another relic.

Chat to the locals - you will be amazed at their friendliness and their stories. Who would think that a very down-to earth estate agent is also a  passionate wildlife photographer? Not like some "sell at all costs" ones that I have met in my life-time! His stories and photos are incredible and he will also find you just the right house or plot for your retirement or week-end retreat. Check out his unique window to the world in his office, especially on a hot day when he opens it to let the Valley breeze blow in!
The Wine  Kolletive sells wine from the smaller farms who are not open to the public and it's well worth a visit for wines you won't find elsewhere. The chatty lady on duty loves living in the valley and mentioned our late friend, Keith who was (small world!) her neighbour for awhile.
The quote below is Keith's interpretation of the "Valley Wave" written for the SA Navy News where he served for many years as a Warrant Officer. Our friend was always able to chat to everybody and knew most of the RK residents within a few weeks of moving to the village! Keith's lovely wife, Barbara, took ill shortly after moving to the village and never truly got to enjoy her new home
Such is life and we miss them both.

"Shortly after moving to the sleepy village of Riebeek Kasteel in the Swartland, I was introduced to a phenomenon called “the village wave”; a simple form of greeting that takes numerous guises and is practiced by all and sundry. The wave could be an arm shaken about vigorously out of the car window, or it could be the flick of the wrist, a simple finger casually lifted off the steering wheel or even a slight nod of the head. No matter in what form it takes, a villager never ignores a passer-by, a passing motorist or a couple strolling hand in hand around the streets, peering into shop windows or admiring all the beautiful gardens, irrespective of the registration number of their car. So, do not be caught off guard next time you experience “the village wave.” It is our local interpretation of a naval salute! "

Another "must do" on the 1st Saturday of every month, is the Funky Fresh Market in Riebeek West, a VERY short drive from Riebeek Kasteel. Again, an interesting collection of people selling jams, bottled fruit, fresh breads, bacon and egg rolls, vegetables, plants, herbal remedies, homemade lemonade etc. Did you know a bubble will appear and rise to the top of an upturned jar of pure honey? Try it!
The pancake ladies were from Malmesbury and it was their first time of trading  - they are from a local church in Malmesbury and all their profits are going to charity. The pancakes were lovely and sold with a smile. Most stall-holders are also very good sales people so don't try to escape without buying something. The herbalist from Mooreesburg very kindly gave me his lemonade recipe which we hope to try if I can find the piece of paper I wrote it down on! Sadly, I think the paper fluttered away somewhere as did my Lotto tickets. So well hidden that maybe they will both surface in a year or so....! Or maybe somebody has cashed in on my winnings already?

There are numerous restaurants so one is spoiled for choice - you certainly cannot go hungry or thirsty in this village. With an interesting mix of names, take your pick! Bar Bar Black Sheep, Cafe Felix, Eds Diner (check out the vintage cars and bikes!), de Jonge Cafe, Kasteelberg Country Inn (Allan Barnard - Radio Personality) Fat Cat's Kitchen (ice cold beer!) and Aunti Pasta to name a few.

Our hosts in the Valley are originally from UK and landed in Cape Town after months of a round-the-world trip when their children left home. They loved Cape Town so much that they spent 6 weeks relaxing in the city after their travels before heading back to UK. The South African lifestyle and sunshine had left their mark, however, and they were back here to settle. Looking around, they decided on a small farm in the valley, converted the existing house to a B&B and now have a very active social life after the weekly farming or B&B duties. With olives, grapes and baby marrows (currently) and 2 gorgeous Ridgebacks, they have settled in well!! The younger dog took us for a walk around the farm and was determined that we would follow. Luckily, she did not cross the Berg River on that occasion, as they apparently do on a regular basis, as it runs past at the bottom of the garden! It's certainly brings new meaning to "it's a dog's life" Forget the bad connotation to this saying - here it is pure heaven - a river to swim in, miles of farm to run in, food provided and guests who can be taken for walks! We loved the outlook towards the mountains and the sight of the many trains rumbling past as this is the main Cape Town - Johannesburg line. So when you are next on the Blue Train, give a wave to the Valley!

The farm has various olive trees, such as Mission, Coratine, Leccino, Frantoio and Kalamata and they produce cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. the olives are hand-picked at just the right stage of ripeness and pressed within twelve hours of harvesting. So look out for the "Riebeek Valley" Olive oil with the Fish Eagle on the logo.

Take some time out to relax away from the daily stress of the city - do remember to give your own "Valley Wave", enjoy the fresh air, the Shiraz wines, the olives, buy some olive oil, enjoy the quirky shops, the friendly locals and the relaxed atmosphere.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com