South Africa - Sundays River and back to Cape Town

Sundays River, South Africa

The Sunday River has the most beautiful sand dunes lining the banks. However, if you do not have a boat, getting to the river means going through the Pearson Park Resort. The current cost is R60.00 even if you are only there for an hour. The drive down goes past the camping sites on a dirt road which is quite bone-shattering. At the end of the road there is a sandy "parking spot" The walk to the river mouth does not take long and the views are spectacular. This is a haven for fisherman, birds and people who enjoy nature.

There are boat rides on the river but the chap only takes a minimum of 4 so he was not willing to take us out. This was very disappointing as the dunes must be totally incredible from the water. There are sand-boarding excursions from Pearson Park - one only hopes that these are well controlled so as not to disturb the eco-system of the dunes.

It was the strangest sight to see two moving fishing rods way beyond the dunes - we realised that there was a path below the dune and the fisherman were walking down to he sea! At first, we thought we were indeed seeing ghostly happenings.

The clouds suddenly came over and the sky darkened which spoilt the light that I was hoping for on the sand. The boats were out and fishing or just enjoying their spin down to collect bait. We felt like hi-jacking one but not being Somali's, we are not quite versed in the art of hi-jacking boats. Sadly!!

Our evening meal at the Elephants Footprints Lodge, was the best in a few days - culinary art is not the greatest in these small places. The Dutch guests were looking forward to their  excursion to Addo the following day whilst we were not looking forward to the homeward journey.

An early start to the day meant that we reached Knysna in time for breakfast. The restaurant at the Heads was our choice - stunning views and a good plate f food. We watched, fascinated, as the yachts went out through the Heads - the sea was calm but it is still a tricky maneuver. The Knysna Lagoon is so  beautiful and the views from the top of Coney Glen Drive are superb.

Traffic was well behaved so we made good time although the many speed limits between Plett and George make for slow going.

The Point at Mossel Bay was a welcome short lunch break and we watched he children dive and play in the tidal pool at high tide. with waves crashing over the rocks, it's quite scary and we were worried that they would get bashed against the rocks as the waves were so high. Luckily not.

The last stay of this trip is on a farm called "A Farm Story" On the road to Still Bay, it is a dairy farm that also has a cheese factory. The Kasselshoop Cheese factory was started in 2002 and sells it's cheese to Western Cape, Gauteng and Eastern Cape. The guest house is in a restored cottage which was known as "Oom Tom se Huis" It is beautifully dencorated with old family history, dresses, old wash basins, photos etc and is a look into the past whilst still enjoying modern comforts. And a long history this farm has as it has seen 5 generations of farmers to date.

I love the quote "If stories come to you, care for them. And learn to give them away where they are needed" The family history goes back to 1700 when a German wagon builder from the town of Kassel, travelled to South Africa and so the story began........

This is also the site of the southernmost skirmish between the Boers and the British on 12/9/1901. One hundred years later, 12 September 200, a monument was set up on the exact spot where this battle took place and can be visited whilst on this farm.

For now, we look forward to a home-cooked meal and a good night's rest with only the cows, the stars and the moon for company!

After a good breakfast, we set off for Still Bay about 20 kms away. This town has an East and West side divided by a beautiful Goukou River. The beaches are simply fantastic for long walks at low tide and swimming appears to be safe. Fishing seems very important to the locals as the harbour had many trailers parked - some even towed by tractors!!! There are lovely houses on the beach - west side - it looks so relaxing, the inhabitants sipping their lunch time drinks, with braai fires going. The kids are able to play quite happily on the sand right in front of their holiday homes. On the East side, there are some really old "beach" houses - most probably built many, many years years ago and still well loved. Many larger mansions stand proud and tall - for the rich families who have to show off that they have made it in the world. Give me the beach living any time.  We watched a rather distraught parent shouting at her kids on a canoe to come back - they were far out and oblivious to their mother's stress. They did capsize but it was low tide and we saw the standing in the sea so it was shallow quite far out. The mom was not amused as she was wading out and calling to her childen all the time!! I think the canoe will be locked away in future!!

Back on the farm for a short siesta and then a walk amongst the cows and outbuildings then sundowners whilst listening to the numerous birds. There are resident owls in the trees at night but we have not yet spotted them. Feeding a calf a bottle of milk is such fun - they certainly can gulp it down in a few seconds.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Grahamstown Day Trip

Grahamstown Suburbs

Grahamstown is an easy day trip from Colchester (Addo) so we set off after breakfast. The drive out was pleasant with not much traffic. Everything is very green despite it being mid-summer. There are a vast number of game lodges in the area from Colchester to Grahamstown - so you are spoilt for choice if this is your what you wish to do. We saw some giraffe, zebra and buck from the road.

Grahamstown was started off as a small military outpost in 1812 by British Officer, Colonel John Graham during the turbulent frontier wars. It grew into a market town and was once the second largest city after Cape Town!! Can you imagine! Not any more - Cape Town beats it hands down. Sorry, Grahamstown.

The 1820 British Settlers also arrived in the town and they established many of the schools and churches still in use today. Grahamstown has Rhodes University and a wander through the grounds was pleasant although it is too early in the year for students. Unfortunately, the Botanical Gardens, which adjoin the university, are in very poor condition and not worth the name "Botanical" despite being right opposite the Botany Department! Neglected and looking really sad, it's a great shame. The University grounds are well kept and a pleasure to wander around.

Grahamstown boasts the oldest Red Post Box in the country and a letter posted here will receive a special frank. It is quite difficult to find as there are no signs and no special plaque when you reach the spot on corner of Worcester and Somerset Roads.

The views from Signal Hill are lovely over the town - sadly, there was a fire on the mountain behind us so the town was covered in smoke. The 1820's Monument on the hill hosts the Grahamstown Festival annually - however, we were rather disturbed by the fact that the memorial bench to the founder was not maintained and the paths are full of weeds. It's a shame.

The centre of the town has many interesting buildings and is certainly worth a wander. The locals don't need cell phones - they shout across traffic and so loudly that everybody can hear them!!!!

The most exciting find for us was the museum which houses the Observatory Museum which in turn houses the only authentic Camera Obscura in the Southern Hemisphere. It provides a 360 degree view of Grahamstown once you have climbed the 70 or so steps!! It is a completely fascinating experience seeing traffic going past way down below plus seeing all the buildings in colour.

There are 5 museums in the town - we only had time to visit the one.

The cathedral of St Michael and St George was started in 1824 and took a 128 years to complete - only finished in 1952 - can you imagine building for so many years? Incredible! Grahamstown is known as "the city of saints" as there are no less than 52 places of worship. Holy people, so hopefully a peaceful place to live!

Church Square has a number of monuments and is an interesting part of town.

There are a number of coffee shops and restaurants in the town when you start feeling peckish.

The drive back to Colchester was rather hairy as the EC (Eastern Cape) drivers were hell-bent on getting somewhere fast so were overtaking on double lines, blind rises etc. Seeing this sort of driving behaviour it is not surprising that the death toll on South Africa's roads over the 2012 Festive season was so high. Cowboy drivers. We were stopped twice - on the road to Grahamstown plus on the way back - for licence checks. The cops/traffic police would be better employed checking the motorists who are totally reckless and endanger other peoples lives.

Safely back at our B&B, we breathed a sigh of relief!!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Addo Elephant Park

Small Town Folk make life interesting!

It is amazing who one meets whilst travelling.

We visited a pub in Cannonville last night - a local chap came in to the bar and spent ages sprouting at the poor barman - with many "f's" thrown into his Afrikaans and something about security, we were not quite sure what he was on about. But he was certainly very vocal and perhaps not too nice a character with too many beers under his belt! Thankfully, he left before I had to venture to the toilet!

The waiter was very friendly and chatty - it turned out that he grew up in Oudtshoorn - same as myself, although of a much younger generation.
His family moved to Port Elizabeth hence his job in the small town of  Cannonville. There are some beautiful houses along the banks of the Sundays River - most with their own jetties. Relaxed living! The pub, the bottle store and the small supermarket are all owned by one person. This seems to be a trend in these small "dorps" (towns) The waiter is hoping to travel - perhaps to Australia - I sincerely hope he is able to broaden his horizons one day as this truly is a tiny village - even worse than Oudsthoorn!!

Tonight we visited a small restaurant in Colchester called "The Juicy Canvas". Foodwise, a disaster! Apparently, the owner opened in Sept 2012 and has endured staff problems etc so our burgers were not home-made and the salad consisted of tomato and lettuce with 1 green olive. Only ice-cream and chocolate sauce was on offer for dessert so we gave that a miss. However, the waitress was very charming and apologetic about the limited choice which should all be fixed within days. One hopes so!!!! The owner, Jeni is an artist and her artwork adorns the walls of the restaurant. There are other artists on display as well. Jeni loves Addo and draws much of her inspiration from her own photo's taken in the park. She has intimate knowledge of the park which would have been handy to have BEFORE we entered!

Many will remember the horrid event in 2011 when 3 rhino were poached at Kariega Game Reserve, not to far from Colchester. One rhino died and Thandi and Themba had horrific wounds. Themba drowned but Thandi survived with medical assistance. Jeni donated a painting which raised R25,000 towards Thandi's care. A great act of kindness towards the rhino.

Jeni has also done a painting for Jacob Zuma - not sure if that is a good thing or not!!!! Hopefully, he paid with his own money and not that of the South African tax payers!!

Our hosts here in Colchester moved from France a year ago when they bought an existing B&B.  With 3 teenage children, a very brave move and we wish them well! Unfortunately, the schooling here is not as advanced as it is in France, where it is also free. Education levels in South Africa have dropped dramatically which is not in the best interests of anybody in South Africa.  They are a happy couple, full of praise for South Africans and their helpfullness. Whether they stay in SA or return  to France one day, they are making a life here for now and are still smiling!

What a variety of folk in such  a tiny place - it certainly makes travel interesting!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Garden Route to Addo Elephant Park - Part 4 Addo

An early start in rain, believe or not, meant that we could get into Addo for a game drive. The sun came out and the day got hot. We drove and drove, seeing only zebra and buck. We decided that Addo was a myth after all - well advertised by somebody out to make money! And then - suddenly, a huge group of ellies from large to small at a water hole. What a special time it was watching them drink, wash themselves, have dust baths and then mud baths! The groups seemed to have a order as they came down to drink in smaller groups. The baby elephant was too precious and he/she had huge fun getting totally muddy whilst surrounded by the family.

Wart Hogs also came down to drink - however, they were quite skittish and I can't say I blame them with these huge beasts so close.

Addo is all about elephants and they are truly magnificent beasts. Started from only 16 elephants after all others had been shot, the park now has over 500 although it is not likely that you will see them all as the bush is very dense.

We have managed to get close to warthog, zebra, ostrich, black-backed jackal, red hartebees, kudu, blue crane, plus the elephants!

The Main Camp, where there is a restaurant is at the Main gate - in the north of the park. One can also enter at the south gate Matyholweni - however, they have no restaurant. The spot where we saw the most elephants was at Hapoor Dam. One can also picnic in the park at designated spots only.

The vegetation in the park is dense and green so nothing is spotted in the bush - you will find game on the plains, at the water holes or alongside the road.
Our best bird sighting was a  African Hoopoe. There are loads of birds - not always easy to photograph.

The baby warthogs are so cute but also so fast to run away - camera shy.

If you are ever in the area of Port Elizabeth, do visit Addo Elephant Park - you won't be sorry.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Garden Route to Addo Elephant Park - Part 3 Storms River to Port Elizabeth



Tsitsikamma

The N2 is in good condition and the first section of the drive from Storms River is with the Tsitsikamma Mountains on your left. It's very green and forested until one reaches the farming areas - with loads of cows which sometimes escape onto the road - so take care! At milking time we saw a very long line of cows walking in single file towards the milking sheds - I have never seen that before. We branched off at Humansdorp headed towards Cape St Francis. A rather ugly lighthouse greets one and the beach, while stretching for miles, appears to have strong currents. A huge warning signboard advises one what to do if caught in a rip. Stay out of the sea rather? That gets my bet!

There was not much to excite us at Cape St Francis so we drove back towards St Francis Bay. The small harbour had a number of chokka boats moored with their night lights strung up. Another boat was loading ice from the huge ice depot - however the pipe had a hole in it so ice was spraying all over the worker! It looked like a flurry of localised snow. The houses/apartments around the harbour had numerous cracks in the walls - I don't think they would be a good buy.

The best part of St Francis Bay is the area around the waterways and canals. The homes are mostly thatched roofed and very luxurious. A recent fire burnt out a number of homes - braai's and thatch roofs don't go together on a windy day. The fire was huge and jumped the water to destroy a number of homes. Great devastation, most probably caused by a moments carelessness. The roads in this area are in a pitiful state - one has to wonder where all the rates money goes to?



St Francis - Destroyed by Fire

Jeffrey's Bay now has a very large Shopping Mall before you reach town. It's about 5 years old now, looks brand new and has all the shops you could wish for - city shopping on the outskirts of JBay! The town itself was a great disappointment - it looks tired and run down. The beach swimming is not the safest but one can walk for miles and miles. The famous surfing spot called Supertubes where all the surfing competitions are held, eluded us. There was a braai place called Supertubes with a couple of shady characters sitting around so we did not want to leave the car there to take a further look!

The best thing that we found in JBay was a cafe called Kitchen Windows located at the surfing spot of Kitchen Windows. It's laid back with a sign that says "If you are not barefoot, you're overdressed" The food was excellent - Thai Fishcakes and divine Amarula Cheese Cake. The staff were friendly and the view over the bay is lovely with a fresh breeze to cool one down. JBay redeemed itself in my eyes purely by our experience at this spot!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Garden Route to Addo Elephant Park - Part 2 Wilderness to Storms River

Canoeist at Look Out Beach, Plettenberg Bay

The drive from Wilderness to Plettenberg Bay is very scenic - surrounded by the Wilderness lakes and then the Knysna Lagoon, it's water, water for most of the way. We stopped in Plettenberg Bay where the Beacon Isle Hotels dominates the beach skyline. A good spot for breakfast or lunch is the Look Out Restaurant which is practically on the beach. This beach and the surrounding buildings were damaged during a heavy winter storm  a few years ago. Plett has always been favoured by the folk from Johannesburg as their holiday spot and it is also the annual hang-out of thousands of teenagers when they finish writing their matric (Grade 12) exams every year.

A must see in the Plett area is Monkeyland, and Birds of Eden. Guided tours will take you through the trees to spot the various types of primates who live here and are free roaming. The Birds of Eden is next door and is the largest single free flight aviary in the world. One wanders through 1.2 km of walkways in a 2.3 hectare aviary. African and exotic, colourful birds share this huge space. Please take enough time to spot them - if you rush through, you could end up seeing nothing! My gold chain was lost on this walk as a cheeky bird perched on my shoulder, much to my delight - it was only later that I realised he had chewed through my chain which dropped off and was lost forever!!!

A guided tour up the Keurbooms River is another interesting experience or you can hire a boat and go 5km up the river, stopping off at the various white sand beaches for a swim or picnic lunch. Both are very enjoyable and fun provided that you don't get stuck on a sand-bank!!

Our next stop was at the very famous Bungy Jump at Bloukrans Bridge. This is the worlds highest bungy jump at 216 metres and is not for the faint-hearted! Needless to say, we have not attempted this adventure, leaving it to all the crazy people out there who have no fear. Whilst I wanted to do the "under bridge" walk - high up over the gorge, under the bridge, James refused point blank so that was that. There were many people milling about but we did not see anybody jump! Sadly, as I wanted to hear those screams of fear. I have to point out that we both chickened out of the bungi jump in Queenstown, New Zealand and that one is not so high!!!!! So it's safe to bet that Bungi Jumping is an activity which is NOT on our bucket list.

Storms River Mouth was our next stop - the San called this area "The Place of many Waters" due to the fact that the river water is stained tannin-black from  the many ferns in the area. It's a heavily forested area with many new trees recently planted. The older trees are yellowwood, stinkwood, hard pear, ironwood, kamassi etc. The rivers have cut out deep gorges whilst flowing down to the sea and this is borne out by the high bridges on this route.

The Tsitsikamma National Park is one of Africa's oldest and largest Marine Reserves. For those seeking adventure, it is the place to be. The famous Otter Trail starts at Storms River and ends in Nature's Valley. At 42 km it is not for the unfit and bookings have to be made far in advance. We opted to take the trail to the Storms River Mouth which is about 1km each way but with many steps. The views over the sea are gorgeous. The trail does not end at the suspension bridge but we chose to walk the bridge over the river mouth - a piece of cake compared to the adrenalin of just the thought of bungi jumping!

Hot, sweaty and with creaking knees, I collapsed into a seat at the restaurant to fortify myself with a cold beer and delicious samoosa's and springrolls whilst James enjoyed fish cakes. It took ages for us both to cool down  after just 2kms!!

Our accommodation at Storms River is called Swallows Nest - the 6 cottages are set within a very pretty garden with oak trees and colourful flowers. Just the spot after the hot day. The village is tiny but busy with the many adrenalin seeking tourists who come here for the Zipline Tours, Abseiling, quad biking, hiking or Blackwater Tubing. The owner of Swallows Nest built and managed a guest house for 16 years before building these cottages as Self-Catering units.

Supper time came around and we headed to Tsitsikamma Inn. The dining room was deserted so we were shown to the smaller bistro area. The food was very slow in coming and my bobotie was the most insipid I have ever tasted. James enjoyed his 300 gr burger though! Dessert was not great either and the atmosphere was very dull - they even forgot to change the CD until eventually one was put on. The hotel looks old with newer rooms in the grounds. Service was pleasant but a rather uninteresting experience. Unfortunately, Marilyn' 60's Diner closed at 18.00 hrs - perhaps because it was Sunday? This place is funky, belts out Elvis music, has tons of  memorabila, down to the old Cadillac! We hope to visit before we leave the village.

Thankfully James got up to make the tea this morning and found a scorpion in the kitchen sink! I would have screamed enough to set the village alight! The owner came to "doom" the poor thing whilst saying that they are quite common in this area and nothing to worry about! Yeah????

The local coffee shop does a great breakfast and has a sign that says "if you want breakfast in bed, sleep in the kitchen" Perhaps I must try this back home?
The coffee shop is owned by a chap who bought up the entire building which now houses a number of small shops. Talk about passive income!

The day is simply gorgeous - not too hot and with blue skies, scattered with the odd puffy clouds so walking was called for. We first did the Fynbos Trail which starts opposite the Info Centre at the entrance to the village. It is 1.8 km and an easy walk. However, I felt very claustrophobic surrounded by tall fynbos - perhaps the thought of snakes and spiders did not help. We saw many nests - presumably of large spiders! I had a fleeting thought of prodding one open but it looked so mean that I thought better leave well alone! The proteas grow very tall and the plants must be magnificent when they are all flowering.

After a short rest, we headed for the BIG TREE - this is a yellowwood tree of approx 1000 years. It's height is 36.6 m and it's circumference is 8.5 m. Not a tree that can be hugged! After admiring this giant, we took the Ratel Nature walk through the forest. The forest is fascinating and quiet. Every now and again one hears the call of a bird or the wind rustling the trees high above. Nothing moves until one spots a black centipede in the path or a dragonfly on a fern leaf. It is a "back to nature experience that can be enjoyed by young and old. The trail has either a yellow route which can be extended with the red route. The yellow route is 2.6km and the red route is 4.2km. We only did the circular yellow route - enough walking for one day now!!!

Marilyn's 60's Diner was our dinner choice for the evening. Being a Monday night it was not at all busy but you just have to visit this venue for the Marilyn Monroe and Elvis stuff covering the walls! Plus the 60's music makes it a very enjoyable outing. The food is nothing special - however our waitress was so very pleasant and made us a gigantic banana split so that we did not have to go hungry. The motto is "you can be thin and wrinkly or you can have a bowl of banana split and fluff that stuff out" So we undid all the good exercise of the day!! Horror of  horrors, I will have to do the Goesa nature walk tomorrow to make up for the indulgence tonight. Can my knees stand it? NO!!!!!

Can anybody tell me how to strangle a frog? Firstly, it's dark outside so you can see where the blighter is, secondly, I do love frogs but not all night long!!!
They have been at whatever they do in the wee hours of the night and I could cheerfully strangle them all. But hey - us city folk don't ever get to hear frogs anymore so I will take their chatter with good grace - who needs sleep anyway?

We did some touring today and then headed off to the Rafters Restaurant at Armagh Country Lodge. Good plate of food, if somewhat over-priced. The food options in Storms River Village are somewhat limited - and they don't seem to bothered about quality and taste. the best meal was at Storms River Mouth.

Maybe we are too fussy? Perhaps that comes of having a "retired from choice" chef in the family?

Anyway, it's all about the experience and this little village is surely the smallest I have ever been too.

Peaceful for sure!

Night night

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Garden Route to Addo Elephant Park - Part 1

Keurbooms River - Near to Plettenberg Bay

The Garden Route of the Western Cape, South Africa is world famous and one of the best attractions in the Cape, other than Cape Town!! Sorry - we are slightly biased as regards our Mother City! Our drive started at about 9.am and traffic was not too heavy given that the school terms have started for the year and the crazy peak holiday season is past. There are a number of good places to stop for breakfast or a snack along the N2 - favourites are the Blue Crane Coffee Shop and  Die Rooi Alwyn (The Red Aloe). The latter is situated amongst a few interesting shops - one selling gorgeously scented candles, interesting goodies and children's items.

Santos Beach. Mossel Bay

Mossel Bay is an interesting town (see my "Memories of Mossel Bay" Blog) although perhaps not as well-known  as the other towns on the Garden Route. The history goes back to Bartholemew Dias and the museum complex is well worth a browse. Mossel Bay currently (2012) has 3 Blue Flag beaches and the swimming in these waters is perfect for families as it is safe and the waters are warm. With various activities available, such as Shark Cage Diving, trips around Seal Island or a visit to Jukani Wildlife Sanctuary, this town could capture your interest for a few days or a purely lazy week's beach holiday. It remains one of my favourite places for a laid back beach break. The obligatory drive down Marsh Street and around the Point has to take place before we can say good-bye to Mossel Bay and head further down the coast. On our way out we were driving behind a lorry with about 5 workers on the back. One has to assume that they were happily finished work for the day or else truly hammered as the one guy was dancing away to the music on his MP3 Player and nearly fell over every time the lorry turned. Another chap was laughing so heartily that his missing front teeth were most prominent! We passed them further along the highway - still dancing and laughing at me when I took a quick photo!

Further along the N2 you will pass Little Brak, Great Brak, Herold's Bay and a number of holiday places along the coast. If you have the time, a wander into any of these will give you insight into the South African culture of "beach" holidays. Many of the homes will be tightly shut waiting for the next holiday period when the owners will descend with the braai tongs, boerewors and many beers. Retirees also favour the Garden Route for it's tranquillity.

Once past George, you have the option of branching off to Victoria Bay - a well known surfing spot. Just watch out for the rip near to the rocks on the far side of the beach. It's a tiny little place that attracts many day trippers and has a character all of it's own with just 1 road. Perfect for a lazy day or two.

The road now starts to twist and turn until you reach the Wilderness. Do stop here to look at the very long beach which stretches forever. The Touws River runs through the village and is idyllic.

Our first overnight stop is at Wilderness at Moontide Guest House which overlooks the river. It's a perfect spot for a break. The beach beckoned soon after checking in so off we headed to stretch the legs after our drive from Cape Town. Wilderness beach is perfect for long, long beach walks, especially so at low tide. You can walk for miles, inhaling the fresh sea air, greeting the loc als walking their dogs or spotting the strange bits of flotsam and jetsam on the shore. A number of jellyfish had washed ashore and the little creatures feeding on them were quite intent on getting their fill. Rather grim looking actually!

Wilderness is known for being a perfect spot along the coast for paragliding and the Friday afternoon gliders were out catching the thermals above the road. What better way to finish off the week? It' s a gem of a place with the scent of the milkwood trees all round. Such a unique scent - thankfully, milkwood trees are protected and cannot be cut down. Besides the beach, there is a boardwalk along the lagoon, plus a more arduous walk up the Kingfisher Trail. This trail goes up to a waterfall and takes about 3 hours return. It is approx. 13 km and is a great way to blow out the cobwebs or stress of the city. Most of the trail is along a board walk so it can be completed by anybody with a reasonable fitness level.

Moontide has canoes for a leisurely paddle up or down river - for those who prefer just watching others do this, the deck is just the place to enjoy the scenery from the shade! The original home was built in 1928 and hosted many illustrious guests during it's heyday. Fact is often stranger than fiction and a passionate love triangle resulted in the death of  the mistress. Sadly, the house was then abandoned and by the time it was put up for sale it was in serious need of repair. Purchased by Maureen Mansfield, it has been restored, improved and expanded to the current guest house which opened to paying guests in 1994.

Supper was enjoyed at Salina's Restaurant overlooking the beach. I chose tapas thinking it would be light, leaving room for dessert! Well, 3 Thai Style fishcakes, 4 Chicken Satays and roasted peppers were too much although I did manage most of it. James enjoyed a huge plate of calamari. The desserts sounded good so we managed to find some extra space - and they were delicious! With a great view of the ocean and friendly staff, it was a relaxing experience. Unfortunately, it appears that diners the previous day were bothered by smokers on the patio and were apparently told that "smokers also have rights" Really? In South Africa where restaurants are all supposed to be non-smoking? If that had happened to us we would have walked out, never to return!!!

After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed off to take some photos and found an every bigger number of  paragliders floating effortlessly above the highway. So if you fancy this idea, try a tandem experience. It looks so effortless and free. At current prices of R550, it's a great way to experience the views over Wilderness - if you dare!

Sedgefield has a Farmers Market called Wild Oats which takes place every Saturday morning. It is so popular that parking is always a problem - get there early and enjoy breakfast before spending all your money. Afterwards you can hire a kayak to explore the lagoon.

Knysna was our next on our agenda to visit a friend who owns and runs "Shoreline Villa" situated near the Heads. What an amazing spot right of the Knysna lagoon. Just gazing at the view would be enough for me to unwind totally. This house is perfect for couples on holiday together or those with children as the house is hired out fully furnished and equipped for a superb holiday experience. At low tide one can walk to Leisure Isle, another gem of a place.

Knysna has many activities to enjoy - our favourite is a visit to Featherbed Nature Reserve. A scenic boat ride across the lagoon takes you across to the Nature Reserve to enjoy amazing views from the Heritage site. Lunch is under the Milkwood Trees and then a stroll down 2.2km path leads you back to the ferry. For those who only want a cruise you can choose from South Africa's only paddle driven vessel or the John Benn or for those seeking more of a thrill, try the rivercat cruise to the heads (weather permitting)

  

After a brisk walk around Leisure Isle, we headed back to "Shoreline Villa" for a much needed icy drink, before driving  back to Moontide for a relaxing few hours on the deck before wandering into the village to eat at "The Girls" Restaurant. This is run by 2 girls - in case you are wondering - and opened in 2007. They have won many awards and it's a cool place to dine with good food, relaxed ambience and a chef (one of the girls!) who takes the time to visit each table. It's a welcome personal touch.

Sadly, we had to leave Moontide the next morning after another great breakfast on the deck.

Next instalment - Wilderness to Storms River.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com