Madrid - Spain

Madrid - a city that must surely be loved by many who visit.

Our start in Madrid was not great as the luggage took forever. The carousel let out one lucky guy's suitcase and 2 yapping dogs and then the screen closed down. And stayed down....Eventually the belt started again, spitting out some more cases before crashing closed again! So we waited, rather impatiently I might add. Somebody had told me that Madrid airport was the pits so we had visions of lost luggage or worse, crushed suitcases. Suddenly, the carousel breathed into life again and our cases miraculously appeared. Whew!!!

Next was to find out where the hotel shuttle would be. I have found that the hotels don't answer requests on Booking.com so we did not know where to go or if they were actually going to fetch us. We asked a gent at a kiosk and he offered his phone for 2 euros but James was already on the cell. Eventually, we found the hotel pick up point outside Terminal 2 and then again another wait as we missed the 22.10 hrs due to the slow luggage arrival.

Our Ibis Hotel shuttle arrived as promised and we could check in and head to their 24 Cafe for some refreshments! 

After a good night's sleep we headed off into the city. The Madrid Underground is a rabbit warren on steroids with escalators up, escalators down, and many branches like octopus tentacles. Going into the city was a breeze of 3 tube changes and much walking up and down! The train goes very fast, is clean and everything is well signposted so it would be very difficult to get lost even if you speak no Spanish.

We opted to do the Madrid Red Top Bus as our time here is so limited. The buses only started at 13.00 today due to a cycle race. There are 2 routes - number 1 does the city centre and Number 2 goes further afield and also passes the soccer stadium which is HUGE. The stadium used to house 100,000 fans but this had been cut to 80,000  for safety reasons. With many season ticket holders,  it must be rather difficult to obtain  a ticket for a match here. There are stalls selling soccer gear outside the stadium and tours are available. 

The architecture of Madrid is simply stunning. The buildings are so beautiful that one has to imagine being an architect in those days. Hats off to all of them for such beauty for all of us to enjoy today.

The avenues are all lined with trees, turning to their autumn colours - so peaceful. Traffic was busy even though it is Sunday so I shudder to think how hectic it must be during working days.

Pavement cafe's are all over the city - some so close to the road that all that protects them from the vehicles is a thin stainless steel railing! I am not sure if I would appreciate the noise or the fuel fumes! 

Madrid has many places where you can rent a bike. These are at bike stations. Pay the required fee into the ticket machine and off you can go to explore the city. A great concept.

The city is alive - every street has people walking around and this makes for a great atmosphere. The city centre square is huge and has hundreds of people - trying to walk against the tide is near impossible. There are many places to eat and many, many hotels if you wish to be in the mayhem of Madrid at night!

We went into Parque Madrid which is huge and well used by locals to sunbathe, row boats on the lake ( one chap looked as if he was ready to propose but also looked as if he was going to capsize his boat in the process!). The autumn foliage is spectacular and the mood is festive! Again, there are many places to eat and it is a favourite place for the locals to relax and let off steam. Unfortunately, somebody had left a suspicious package lying around and the cops were picking up any bag left unattended. We did not hang around.......

For those with more time in the city, there are numerous museums to visit.

On the way back to our hotel we found the underground to be very busy so I would hate to be on it during soccer match days - it must be bedlam!  But organised bedlam!!!

A walk in the immediate vicinity of our airport hotel was an eye opener.  The butcher /greengrocer /fishmongers had wonderful displays of their produce. The tiny florist flowed onto the sidewalk, the haberdashery had loads of wool for sale  (do people still knit?). Old ladies out and about with their shopping baskets or sitting at a pavement cafe having their morning coffee. Others rushing to catch the bus or heading off to the Metro. 

We chose a pavement cafe set back slightly with a hedge giving some relief from the passing traffic. It was a great choice as the owner was lovely. We were given free tapas to start, then we enjoyed our tomato/tuna/onion/olives/boiled egg salad. At the end of the meal we were given delicious chocolate balls. I would recommend this place, Restaurant Campanillas, if you are ever in the area near the Ibis Hotel, in Barajas.

In Spain, people appear to wait for the green man before crossing the street. Even when there is no traffic in sight. Very law abiding. 

But the Spanish do love smoking and this has sometimes been a problem. You can see clouds of smoke at busy bus stops or outside the cafes. Luckily the Metro is a smoke free zone.

Our stay in Madrid was a short stop over to break the long journey back to Cape Town but what an amazing city. Wish we had more time here....!

Gracias and Goodbye.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Things I love or hate about India!




Mumbai, India

India is such a melting pot of experiences that many will return to my memory at odd times - here are just some of them:

Commerce:
Industry is alive and well in India - from the latest technology to the humble shoe repairer, umbrella repairer, the seamstress on an old fashioned sewing machine, the hardware store that is so small yet has just about everything, the Fisher folk with their nets cast just offshore,  the tuk-tuk drivers, the men on bicycles that still have those old-fashioned racks on the back, last seen in the 60's!, the hand-drawn carts carrying goods, these  Indian people are all entrepreneurs, each in their own small way. It's wonderful to see and takes one back into an era that has been forgotten, such is the pace of modern life in many Western countries where many of these skills have long been forgotten in favour of modernization.

Beach Meditation:
If you spot an Indian man squatting on the beach, gazing at the Arabian Sea, please don't go up to him, thinking that this is a meditating guru.
It works like this:
Make a little hole in the sand close to the high tide water mark
Squat down and expose the buttocks
Gaze longingly at the ocean in front of you
Once you have completed your ablutions, get up and walk away, leaving a little pile for the waves to wash away at next high tide.
We grew up with LONG DROPS as kids at our beach house long before flush toilets happened. These work well - all you need is a spade and some effort to make a very deep hole! Not rocket science? To be fair, these folk are fishermen and live and exist near the sea so their outlook is most probably more in tune with nature than mine is!

Umbrella Romance:
The Indian population has no chance despite the government pleading to keep the family at one or two kids.
Little black umbrellas dotted along the shore mean that these are courting couples - snogging or groping, they all look young enough to still be at school!
It's so funny to see them huddled together under these tiny umbrellas.

Horn Please:
Most vehicles have this painted on the back - Sound Horn -  it's a way of life in India - the HORN.
Perhaps a thorn in the side of those worried about sound pollution?

Beach Clean-ups:
Alleppey needed beach clean ups quite often due to the very large crowds that descend on the beach. The next day, the ladies were out in force picking up litter. With red and white striped umbrella's over their heads, they made a pretty early morning sight.

Is America next to Africa?
We had this question posed to us from a family outside of Kerala. Our driver (with a degree) was most shocked and hastily explained some geography to this chap. Apparently, most "white" visitors are deemed to be either from America or Britain. Yet South Africa features in cricket and most Indians LOVE their cricket!
The majority of those who asked where we were from, seemed to know about South Africa, mainly through sport.

Friendly, so friendly:
The favourite question from most folk who asked where we were from, was also "What is your name" I really did not grasp the significance of this - perhaps they are looking for some different names for their kids one day?

Caste System:
The caste system is still very in place but nobody really wanted to explain this to us. The closest we came was the explanation that the "name" suggests the caste. We did see an article on cricket where the "backward" caste was mentioned. What an awful name and rather sad in this age of democracy.

School Uniforms:
The school children in Alleppey all wear very smart uniforms and always look extremely neat. As mentioned previously, literacy is alive and well in this province with many English Speaking schools. These children are most polite and friendly - it's says much for their upbringing.

I loved the total mayhem of traffic in India - it's organised chaos at its very best.

I loved the vibrant colours of India

I loved the little boy who we helped to swim in the pool at Panoramic Sea Resort, Alleppey. He  came to thank us, chatted about the India cricket against Australia and shook hands when his family were leaving. Making sure that he found us on two separate occasions. Beautiful English and wonderful manners.

I loved the smell of spices in Munnar, the Hill Station where the weather is cooler and not humid.

I loved the natural forests of Kerala and the beautiful waterfalls

I loved the wide open beaches of South Goa

I loved the many fishing boats dotted on the shores of Kerala

I loved the fact that so many Indians ASK to have their photograph taken

I loved the fact that Indians ask which country we come from

I loved the service from the staff at Panoramic Beach Resort, Alleppey

I loved the crazy, bumpy rides in the well-worn tuk-tuks

I loved the South Indian food and especially the buffet dinners at Holiday Inn, Goa

I loved the casual dining experience at Dreamers, Beach Road, Alleppey

I loved the ride on an Indian Elephant

I loved our time and conversations with Aneesh, our graduate driver in Kerela

I was grateful that I did not have to endure Delhi Belly

I loved the reporting in the "Times of India"

I loved the friendly smiles of the Indian people and the children who wanted "photo please"

I did not enjoy:

Mumbai International Airport - its horrid, totally horrid with virtually no seating or restaurant if one is too early for check-in.

The fact that foreigners cannot drive in India (mind you, it's a wise move on their part!)

The humidity at all coastal places that we visited - Mumbai, Goa, Alleppey.

The garbage littering some places

The stares from some Indian males in Mumbai

The fact that water is not drinkable

The men using the beach as a toilet

Whist we were very sceptical about visiting a country so very different to everywhere we have travelled to date, it was an incredibly interesting journey.

Don't rush around from place to place, stop and experience the people and their way of life - it will be well worth your while.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

India - Alleppy Backwaters (16)

Alleppey Backwaters, Kerala, India

What an amazing day in the backwaters of Alleppy. We were going to get the normal Indian Ferry for IR 10 but were stopped by a guy touting a private cruise for 3 hours at IR 1200. Looking at the ferry boat, which was packed and didn't look too comfy, we decided to take the small motor boat. A very good choice, even though it sounded as if it would stop in some crazy place, never to go again. The chap took us through tiny backwaters where the larger boats cannot go so we could see how the locals live. It is quite amazing that these people live and breathe by the back waters. They scour their pots in the water, they wash their hair in the water, they bash their washing on their washing stones, they bathe in the water - in fact, the water is their life-line. It's just incredible. Whilst the waters don't have litter floating, one has to wonder how clean it actually is? Fishing was also very evident - from an old granny to a young boy, they stand with just their fishing sticks.

Alleppy Backwaters, Kerala, India

People are so happy and most of them love having their photos taken. Often, the children will run out and wave just so that one can take their photo. Smiling faces, happy faces - it is wonderful to experience this abundance of joy  in these peoples lives. The houses on these canals are on a narrow strip of land abutting the rice paddy fields. Apparently each house has a section of paddy field so they have  steady income. There were only a few women working the fields today as it is Sunday. However, being Sunday, it gave is immense insight into the lives of these people living along the canals of Alleppy.

Our "driver" had to contend with an oil leak and water hyacinths clogging his propeller, and trying to turn the boat around at a very narrow spot. He managed this with finesse and despite our misgivings, gave us a fantastic tour. He apparently earns IR 6000.00 per month and has been doing this job for 20 years. Thanks, Joseph for an amazing day. 

The backwaters have miles and miles of waterways and there are many various boats around. The houseboats are from 1 - 3 bedroom, there are the day-tripper boats, much bigger than our little chug-a-long and many locals in dug-out canoes getting from place to place. The backwaters are the reason that most people visit this area and we hope to enjoy another trip soon.

To get to the boat jetty originally, we took a new 4 wheeler tuk-tuk for IR 50.00. On the way back, we got a normal tuk-tuk - wow - bouncing, can't see much and it's the same price as the new ones! The driver could not really speak English! We had to wait at the train crossing for ages before the train went by at speed. The way back was thru some really grotty, dirty areas - in fact, the backwaters looked cleaner than these particular streets in Alleppy.

We arrived back in our room to find the bed decorated with frangipani flowers, which smell simply heavenly and some incense burning to give the room a wonderful fragrance. As I have said before, the service here is top-class even if the accommodation is only basic Silver Crown. 

Dinner at Dreamers again, watching the very busy beach. Being Sunday, the locals were out in force enjoying the sea breezes. All appeared very well behaved, just being out and social. The beach is huge so it does not appear totally over-crowded. Dinner was good.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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(19) UK - Shirley - Avon Canal - Narrow Boat Trip

I woke up to the sound of James banging and crashed like a hippo and wondered what on earth was happening but it felt too cold to get up!
I hollered but he did not hear me - when he eventually came to the cabin it was to tell me that he woke up to find the boat adrift in the middle of the canal again with one mooring rope totally off and the other just about off as well. So armed with the long pole, he pushed and pushed until he got alongside again! Crazy stuff - this boat must have a wish to escape somewhere! As this is our 2nd trip and the ropes were tied around two bollards, it remains a mystery as to how this one came right off the bollard. "Castaway" seems a very apt name for this monkey of a narrow boat!
We took a walk to check out the drawbridge workings again and then got talking to the Hotel Boat moored up ahead. They have 8 passengers on board from all over - Australia, New Zealand, UK. Apparently, the food on board is excellent - Beef Wellington last night plus divine strawberry cheese cake! They seem a jolly bunch and don't have any stress in managing locks or moorings!  It looks like a railway carriage - passage on the side and cabins on the other. Perhaps bunk beds? Didn't ask though.

Last night our "neighbours" complained about our engine running at about 17.45 hrs - we switched off to accommodate them but everybody says we should just have said "tough!" For those who don't know one has to run the engines for at least 5 hours a day to charge the batteries for the evening. As we were downloading photos, charging cell phones and camera batteries, the engine really needed to stay on for awhile. The rule is no engine between 20.00 hrs and 08.00 hrs. So we were within our rights - maybe this couple went to bed at 18.00 hrs?

The key to work the drawbridge did not want to turn so James had to dash over, managed to get the key turned and then I could press the "open bridge" button. Closing the bridge was OK but then I could not get the key out! Pathetic. the long and short of this was James again having to dash over to assist. Weak wrists and a total technical nightmare - that's me!
The tow path beckoned so off I set allowing James to enjoy his ride on the canal in peace. The houses on canal side are very posh in this area from Shirley and the tow path is very pretty with many trees, ferns and greenery. The rain overnight made the path very muddy and this eventually beat me as I could not get through without risking a fall in the mud. This did not appeal as muddy shoes and a muddy jacket which could not be cleaned, did not appeal if I fell on my bum!
We passed a huge block of apartments where a lady as feeding the ducks. The ducks obviously know this happens daily as they suddenly appeared from nowhere to jump up on the bank and get stuck into the bread offerings. Every time I spoke to a duck ( this happens to people walking a quiet towpath!) it came swimming up expecting some food offerings and I felt really bad being empty handed.
There are a number of canal boats in permanent private moorings which slows the boat down as one has to "Go Slow" The wind caught the boat just as a moored craft appeared so there was nearly a collision! Thankfully, poles and hooks come in handy in these situations.
We spotted the Hotel Boats moored near Hockley Heath so we managed to moor one boat behind them.
Lunch break then off to explore.

After lunch we headed off on foot to see the Lapworth Locks - 14 locks going downhill and an hour's walk from where we are moored. The Lapworth Flight is not as impressive as the Foxton Locks but still interesting to see nevertheless and we saw a few boats going both downwards and upwards. We found some fridge magnets in the Canal Boat Shop and the lady there kindly pointed out the way to the pub for a loo stop. Go in the back way, she said and the toilets are right there. Nobody will know. Well, with my luck a staff member was coming out with a bag of refuse and gave me a rather dirty look! Tough! If my friend, Mrs P can walk into the table Bay Hotel in the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town just to use their loo's, then I think the Roof Inn stands no chance.

The weather forecast this morning said sunshine and showers - we have just experienced both at the SAME time. The Brits certainly aim to get the forecasts correct.
The sad news currently is the abduction of the little 5 year old in Machynlleth in Wales - we stayed in the area a few years ago and did all our grocery shopping in this charming village. The world truly has some very sick people these days.
The Hotel Boat is moored just below us but they have been out all day on an excursion so there is nobody in sight. Our pub tonight is the Wharf Tavern which looks very run down but it's within a few yards and there is nothing else within a short walk. We walked into the village and the convenience store did not even have yoghurt - very sad.
Supper was enjoyed at the Wharf Inn - a very run down looking pub on the canal but the food was good! Chicken Korma and Cheese Burger plus the most delicious Chocolate Fudge Cake - the best to date. The Brits certainly appear to make great choc fudge cake!
It gets dark quite early now that we are into October so we are now safely back on board. The Hotel Boat has everybody tucking into their dinners - unfortunately, we could not see what they were eating but perhaps we will hear their menu tomorrow before they set off for the day.
Night everybody.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Riebeek Kasteel, The Village Atmosphere

Riebeek Kasteel, one of the hidden treasures of the Western Cape, is only an hour from Cape Town and transports you back to a slower pace immediately as you drive into the village. Imagine the glorious sight that welcomed the first explorers to this valley as early as 1661 - with wild game roaming free it must have been a sight to behold and a picturesque valley just waiting to be farmed.
The town was laid out in 1900 and has retained it's village atmosphere to this day - let's hope it stays as welcoming and rural  - a perfect getaway for a slow week-end or a lazy Sunday lunch.
The Main Street appeared on a map as far back as 1861 and was a route towards Tulbagh. The current square was designated already by 1911 as a market square and today it is lined on both sides by restaurants and interesting shops.

The Allesveloren farm was granted to Gerrit Cloete in 1704 after having first served as a VOC outpost. This wine farm is famous for it's red wine, port and restaurant where families and friends can gather for a leisurely wine tasting or lunch. Make a stop!

Klovenburg is another wine and olive farm granted to Jan Botma is 1704 and still producing today.
The valley is also known for it's olives and an olive festival is held each year. The village gets packed so be sure to book your accommodation well in advance. The variety of tastes are incredible! The Olive Boutique is open all year round if you miss the Olive Festival week-end.

Just don't try picking olives straight off the trees - they are so disgusting and bitter that you will spit them out faster than you picked them. So theft is not an issue! The various secret recipes for the brine make the olives unique and their tastes many and varied.
For the more energetic there are cycle routes and hiking trails - be sure to get your permit from the Tourism Office and enjoy the views from the top of the Kasteelberg Mountain which dominates the scene above Riebeek Kasteel.

The Royal Hotel - this beautiful, old Colonial hotel is the oldest in the Western Cape and has the longest "stoep" (veranda) south of the Limpopo! One is truly transported back to a bygone era when visiting this hotel. Pop in for a drink at the 150 year old bar or enjoy lunch in the gardens. Bikers, expensive cars, passing tourists - you name it, this hotel has visitors from all walks of life - just don't try to play on the old piano on the veranda - with keys yellow and stained, it's another relic.

Chat to the locals - you will be amazed at their friendliness and their stories. Who would think that a very down-to earth estate agent is also a  passionate wildlife photographer? Not like some "sell at all costs" ones that I have met in my life-time! His stories and photos are incredible and he will also find you just the right house or plot for your retirement or week-end retreat. Check out his unique window to the world in his office, especially on a hot day when he opens it to let the Valley breeze blow in!
The Wine  Kolletive sells wine from the smaller farms who are not open to the public and it's well worth a visit for wines you won't find elsewhere. The chatty lady on duty loves living in the valley and mentioned our late friend, Keith who was (small world!) her neighbour for awhile.
The quote below is Keith's interpretation of the "Valley Wave" written for the SA Navy News where he served for many years as a Warrant Officer. Our friend was always able to chat to everybody and knew most of the RK residents within a few weeks of moving to the village! Keith's lovely wife, Barbara, took ill shortly after moving to the village and never truly got to enjoy her new home
Such is life and we miss them both.

"Shortly after moving to the sleepy village of Riebeek Kasteel in the Swartland, I was introduced to a phenomenon called “the village wave”; a simple form of greeting that takes numerous guises and is practiced by all and sundry. The wave could be an arm shaken about vigorously out of the car window, or it could be the flick of the wrist, a simple finger casually lifted off the steering wheel or even a slight nod of the head. No matter in what form it takes, a villager never ignores a passer-by, a passing motorist or a couple strolling hand in hand around the streets, peering into shop windows or admiring all the beautiful gardens, irrespective of the registration number of their car. So, do not be caught off guard next time you experience “the village wave.” It is our local interpretation of a naval salute! "

Another "must do" on the 1st Saturday of every month, is the Funky Fresh Market in Riebeek West, a VERY short drive from Riebeek Kasteel. Again, an interesting collection of people selling jams, bottled fruit, fresh breads, bacon and egg rolls, vegetables, plants, herbal remedies, homemade lemonade etc. Did you know a bubble will appear and rise to the top of an upturned jar of pure honey? Try it!
The pancake ladies were from Malmesbury and it was their first time of trading  - they are from a local church in Malmesbury and all their profits are going to charity. The pancakes were lovely and sold with a smile. Most stall-holders are also very good sales people so don't try to escape without buying something. The herbalist from Mooreesburg very kindly gave me his lemonade recipe which we hope to try if I can find the piece of paper I wrote it down on! Sadly, I think the paper fluttered away somewhere as did my Lotto tickets. So well hidden that maybe they will both surface in a year or so....! Or maybe somebody has cashed in on my winnings already?

There are numerous restaurants so one is spoiled for choice - you certainly cannot go hungry or thirsty in this village. With an interesting mix of names, take your pick! Bar Bar Black Sheep, Cafe Felix, Eds Diner (check out the vintage cars and bikes!), de Jonge Cafe, Kasteelberg Country Inn (Allan Barnard - Radio Personality) Fat Cat's Kitchen (ice cold beer!) and Aunti Pasta to name a few.

Our hosts in the Valley are originally from UK and landed in Cape Town after months of a round-the-world trip when their children left home. They loved Cape Town so much that they spent 6 weeks relaxing in the city after their travels before heading back to UK. The South African lifestyle and sunshine had left their mark, however, and they were back here to settle. Looking around, they decided on a small farm in the valley, converted the existing house to a B&B and now have a very active social life after the weekly farming or B&B duties. With olives, grapes and baby marrows (currently) and 2 gorgeous Ridgebacks, they have settled in well!! The younger dog took us for a walk around the farm and was determined that we would follow. Luckily, she did not cross the Berg River on that occasion, as they apparently do on a regular basis, as it runs past at the bottom of the garden! It's certainly brings new meaning to "it's a dog's life" Forget the bad connotation to this saying - here it is pure heaven - a river to swim in, miles of farm to run in, food provided and guests who can be taken for walks! We loved the outlook towards the mountains and the sight of the many trains rumbling past as this is the main Cape Town - Johannesburg line. So when you are next on the Blue Train, give a wave to the Valley!

The farm has various olive trees, such as Mission, Coratine, Leccino, Frantoio and Kalamata and they produce cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. the olives are hand-picked at just the right stage of ripeness and pressed within twelve hours of harvesting. So look out for the "Riebeek Valley" Olive oil with the Fish Eagle on the logo.

Take some time out to relax away from the daily stress of the city - do remember to give your own "Valley Wave", enjoy the fresh air, the Shiraz wines, the olives, buy some olive oil, enjoy the quirky shops, the friendly locals and the relaxed atmosphere.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Spain - without the Bulls!

Spain - without the Bulls

Sunny Spain beckoned for a whirl-wind tour but we landed at a freezing Heathrow and had to wait for the National Express bus to take us to Gatwick for the flight to Malaga, Spain. The BA flight was very noisy with screaming kids and I was sooooo tired. We were told to wait at a mini bus stop for the lift to the  Car Hire place but the driver shook his head at us and trundled off. So we waited! It was the correct bus so after a phone call the chap came back – very surly and not much of a welcome to Spain. The car hire place was very busy so we were handed the car and off we drove. Only later did we discover it was a diesel model.  Next came the fun part – we were on the road to Benamaldena when James decided that we had to go to Malaga!! 2.5 hrs later, after getting horribly lost in Malaga, and many phone calls to the resort we headed back the way we had come and eventually found the Timeshare Sahara Sunset Club in Benamaldena. Never trust a man with directions! They refuse to ask for help and will make you suffer for so long before admitting that they are LOST!!! The staff at the resort were very pleasant; but told me I looked totally shattered and should get to bed soon! So we ate a quick pizza in the restaurant and then collapsed into bed. So tired I did not even wake for the loo that night!! Which is a major miracle!

               
Refreshed, we awoke the next morning and headed off to find food. We found a great café for breakfast just down the road from the resort on the beachfront called “The Last Resort” The Vegetarian Breakfast consisted of egg, tomato, mushrooms, baked beans, hash browns, toast, marmalade and tea/coffee. Excellent value at E3.50 and very consistent. We returned there every day -it was so good.  As we had been travelling for so long and felt quite stiff, we decided that today was a “walking” day so off we set to explore Benamaldena. We found a lovely park, full of locals and their children, then walked further and took the cable car up the mountain for stunning views of the Costa da Sol.  We also enjoyed a raptor display – amazing birds.

The section of the Costa del Sol from Torremolinos going west to Fuengirola and including Benalmadena is characterised by high-rise tourist developments. This can be seen from the cable car. Apparently, recent developments have much stricter planning regulations than in the early days with a focus on better quality tourism.  

The mountain air was very bracing and certainly cleared away the stale aircraft air from our lungs. After the long walk down we were peckish again so walked towards the yacht club. There are lots of pavement cafes with the owners “braaing” (barbecue) either meat or fish and trying to tempt you to a table. We opted for roast beef and pork but it was very bland and, sadly, not worth a repeat visit.

Monday:

Ronda was on the agenda today so off we set, enduring a rather a torturous climb. The roads are not very well sign posted which did not help matters. Despite being Andalucía's fastest growing town, Ronda retains much of its historic charm, particularly in the old town. It is famous worldwide for its dramatic escarpments and views, and for the deep El Tajo gorge that carries the Rio Guadalevín through its centre. The 18th century Puente Nuevo 'new' bridge, which straddles the 100m chasm below, is usually the first stop for most visitors as it enjoys amazing views out over the Serranía de Ronda Mountains.

Ronda is also famous as the birthplace of modern bullfighting but we don't really like the idea of this sport so did not visit the famous bullring. We decided to take the “old Mine” tour  and went down many, many steps right to the bottom. The problem was that we then had to go all the way back up again! Good exercise if the knees can hold out!

 In the middle of the bizarre mountain range Serranía de Ronda, at the edge of a 120 meters deep and 70 meters wide canyon, there is Ronda - certainly one of the most incredible spots to visit.

The famous and really breath-taking bridge alone is worth the travel, but Ronda has more to offer: the only bullring in all Spain which is entirely made of stone, and several interesting buildings from the Moorish period.
We did not find the food in Spain very exciting - we visited a pizzeria where the food was positively the worst we have both ever tasted. Perhaps they try and please the many British tourists and in so doing, have lost the Spanish plot. 
Tuesday:
We headed out to Nerja on the N340 - although only 50 km there are lots of stop/starts with the many traffic lights and the  area is extremely built up. But Nerja is certainly worth a visit - it is well-kept with lovely, old winding streets, lots of Spanish pubs, a great beach and tons of interesting looking restaurants. After our hearty breakfast, we could not try them unfortunately. Much to our sorrow!   
With over 400 pubs and restaurants, there is a great choice and there are many other things to do in the area if one is staying longer.

The best village visited during our stay was Frigliana - what a delight. Narrow cobbled streets in this "white Village" just beg to be explored, - you never know what you will find - a pub, a shop selling interesting goods, a beautiful planter of geraniums, or a friendly soul who speaks English.

In the "new" part of the village we came across a "graveyard" next to a church. The memorials are all stacked one upon the other, with photos of the deceased, gorgeous flowers - it was a delight to view such a peaceful haven for those departed - not like so many lonely graveyards.

The streets are uphill so some stamina is required to view this town properly but it is well worth the effort. The houses are Moorish in appearance and so well kept. Its built high up on the hillside so enjoys lovely views and it must be good to live in this town. We spent a number of hours exploring before heading back to Benamaldena.

Thankfully, we did find a good restaurant - called la Taberna Santa Ana where the service was excellent and the food was very good. A little pricey for our budget but well worth it. It's is family run and has been in business for 15 years now so well established. We returned a few times and were not disappointed.

Wednesday:
After a hearty breakfast we decided that Marbella would be a good spot to visit to enjoy a swim. Oh my, the highway is pretty fast and it's so built up, that we missed the turning to Marbella and just went whizzing past! So we did a quick consult with the map and decided to head for the hills and Istan instead. It turned out to be a good choice - a very windy road with many twists and turns brought us to a gorgeous authentic Spanish village high up in the hills. We wandered around and kept bumping into a fish peddler selling his wares from the back of his van. He would stop every now and again, shout himself hoarse, sometimes somebody would come out and sometimes not! He was quite amused that we wanted to take his picture! He sold a fair amount of his sardines before we left him for a cold beer in the village square. Life appears very slow in these parts - no rush at all. There is always tomorrow! And tomorrow.....!

A swim was on the cards so we headed off to Estapona where we found a quiet local beach but the water appeared rather dirty. We did enjoy a little time out in the sun before heading back. I kept seeing these little green crosses which I took to be traffic lights (lucky I was not the driver!!) Gosh, I said, the Spanish must truly be devout Catholics to have all their traffic lights in the forms of crosses. Well, James exploded and nearly drove off the road - those are Pharmacy signs, you idiot, he said! One lives and learns!!

Thursday:
A long drive to the Sierra Nevada Mountains which I just had to visit for myself having always heard so much about this beautiful range. And guess what? There was still snow to be had on the mountain tops whilst it was blazing hot down at the coast. Two climates within a few hours of each other! The Ski village we came to must be a hive of activity during the ski season but now it was just a load of hotels, backpackers, hostels, etc all shut up tight until the next ski season. The village looks very forlorn all closed and shuttered - like a lost orphan waiting for it's mother to return. We walked up to play in the remaining snow drifts as the weather was pretty warm. Having grown up in Oudtshoorn with extreme heat in summer and chillblain cold in winter, snow is still a novelty for me as the only snow we ever saw was on top of the Swartberg Mountains, high up on the slopes with not a ski lift in sight. We certainly felt the ice-cold during winter from those mountains, which are incredibly beautiful, but offer no fun and games in the snow!

The roads in Spain are very good, mainly dual-carriage ways, fast moving but good driving. The road signs had us confused on many occasions until we sort of figured out the Spanish way of thinking. The take-over by the British on the coast has spoilt Spain to my mind - it is so developed as to be "characterless" in many places.



Friday:
With much more to see but no time left in our whirl-wind tour of the Costa da Sol and surrounding areas , we decided on a "car-free" day and set off on the walk from Benamaldena to Torremolinos. The walk along the beachfront goes on for miles, with loads of beach restaurants and bars, we heard many different languages being spoken and the area is very lively. The beaches all had the obligatory beach umbrellas, there was an area with paddle-boats which we would have loved but they were quite large and required a minimum of 3 persons to man them so we had to ditch that idea. There was quite a bit of topless bathing - James eyes were out on stalks! As you can gather, we don't have too much of that in South Africa! Beer and Tapas were enjoyed at various spots along the way and we thoroughly enjoyed the walk although it was fairly long. As I did not want to be hampered by my heavy camera, there are no photos of this area but the walk was great and can be recommended.

For our last night we decided to give all the British restaurants a miss and eat in at the resort's Casbah restaurant. The food was pretty mediocre but a singer came on and livened things up well. Two old Spanish dears kept dancing to the music and asking for more Spanish songs. Four ladies in a room across from the restaurant were dancing away with beer bottles in their hands - they were having a ball and eventually arrived at the restaurant in hysterics at their own antics! It made for a very amusing evening and kept us laughing.

It rained that night - sad to see us go? The drips keep me away all night which did not bode well for our day's travelling the following day.

We enjoyed Spain but do feel that it has lost much of it's Spanish identity as the Spaniards seem to pander to the tourists  - perhaps this is only true of the Costa da Sol? We loved the tiny villages where life seems to have stood still, the snow still clinging to the Sierra Nevada mountains and the lively feel of the Costa da Sol with it's many holiday makers. So, despite not seeming so very Spanish on the coast, it's a great area to visit and there is loads to do to keep one occupied. It was impossible to cover every nook and cranny and many folk return year after year to enjoy the sunshine, the beaches, the shopping and the many pubs and restaurants.

Hopefully, we will be back as there is still  much more to explore in this country!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Sun City, North West

Sun City - the name conjures up images of loads of fun in the famous South African sun! It is indeed a huge complex with massive grounds and 4 hotels, The Palace, The Sun Hotel, The Cascades and the Cabanas. The Vacation Club is Timeshare and takes up a fair proportion of the very large and beautifully laid out grounds. The Palace Hotel is 5*, opulent and ostentatious. Tours were allowed previously but no longer as the high paying guests prefer their privacy from gaping plebs like us, who can't afford the astronomical prices to stay in the hotel.

However, it's a great vacation spot wherever you stay and there is plenty to do - so much so that we did not get to see/do everything in the 4 nights we spent at the Vacation Club. A lovely 3 bed unit gave us plenty of space and we had great neighbours - one from North West Province and Hollanders on the other side. Further down a family with 2 small children resided and entertained us when dad took out the soccer balls every evening. The baby was barely walking and the little boy, who obviously loves his soccer, kicked a fair distance and used both feet! Perhaps I should have got his autograph? He could be the next generation, David Beckham?

It can be hot and very humid at Sun City. The air-conditioners creak and groan and are so loud as to defy sleep - they appear about 30 years old. Modern air-cons are so quiet that one tends to forget to switch them off! But that's in the Vacation Club - perhaps the hotels have quieter ones.

We are not golfers but did enjoy the beautiful scenery and surroundings of both the Lost City Golf Course and the Gary Player Golf Course. It's enough to make one want to take up golf - playing on such beautiful courses can only be a pleasure. The concierge challenged me to return and take up golf - fat chance!! But it could mean some weight loss so maybe I must consider the challenge.....who knows! There are jogging trails at both golf courses so you can get in some exercise without hitting a tiny white ball.

 

We walked around the Lost City Golf course on the day they were closed so we did not have to dodge any golf balls - it is really beautiful yet is surpassed by the Gary Player course (see picture) which we did not have time to walk around. Expensive to play a round but well worth it, I would imagine if you are an avid golfer!

The gardens at Sun City are a delight and there are various walks through gardens that could feature in Garden and Home! No expense has been spared and there are many water features, streams, lakes etc.  Various paths and trails are laid out, some more strenuous than others, but these are marked as such.

Once you arrive, you are not allowed to move your car unless you are going out of the complex. The buses and taxi's run regularly and are all free of charge. It's an excellent way of keeping traffic to a minimum and yet transporting guests to whichever place they wish to go.

There are many activities to choose from and it is impossible to do them all in a few days - however, everybody has different needs and preferences so choose either to lie at the pools, gamble the night away, play some golf, do some walking, enjoy the water-sports, eat yourself silly at the many restaurants etc etc!

 We did a tour of the Crocodile Farm which was exceptionally interesting. I had never realised that huge, mean crocs would come like babies when called for food! It was a total eye-opener. This farm has thousands of crocodiles (not all in this area) and they are farmed for their skins. The guide was very informative although he tended to address one side of the audience so we could not always hear everything that was being said. The crocs vary in size from babies to huge monsters, many years old. Although the staff enter the one particular pen and feed the crocs by hand, it would not be something to attempt in the wild. So fierce looking, those teeth are still giving me nightmares! It's amazing how silent all wild animals are and the crocs glide through the water with hardly a ripple to advertise their presence in the water. Crocs are cold-blooded so they can only control their body temperature by basking in the sun on cold days, opening their mouths for the wind to cool them down, lying in the shade on hot days and lying very still. This makes them appear very lethargic and lazy but don't go too close - you will see how fast they can react when required! If you are ever in a position of being attacked by a croc - stab the eyes and nostrils.

Don't do a practice run, it could be fatal. 

The Butterfly area was rather disappointing as the rain had apparently killed many of the butterflies a few nights before we visited. The guide does explain the various stages of their life cycle and there were some butterflies around but not many.

Pilansberg National Park has an entrance just past the Vacation Club so it is easily accessible for a day's outing and is well worth the trip. See my Blog on Pilansberg for more details  We thoroughly enjoyed our day as did our Dutch neighbours who were lucky enough to see baby elephants whilst we only saw one very big lone bull! The Park has the Big 5 - get up early for the best game sightings. Game drives are very popular from Sun City and the game vehicles passed us every night coming back from their sunset drives. Whilst we preferred to do our own drive, the game vehicles are much higher and you have the added information given to you by the rangers. Well worth the trip.

There are 2 aviaries at Sun City plus a predator bird display which we did not get to see. The birds were being fed when we walked into the one aviary so they were all bustling about and jostling for the tastiest morsels of fruit.

Gambling is not for me - as somebody who could withstand the temptation in Las Vegas with its many huge gambling halls, Sun City was never going to tempt me! However, there are many who enjoy a flutter or two, or three or.....the really big players who get free accommodation as they play regularly for such high stakes.  We did see some players on the 02c machines - that could mean a long night before any winnings materialise!

 

Sun City does have something for everyone whether it's just lazing at the various pools, golfing, gambling, taking in a night time show or game viewing. There are plenty of restaurants in the various hotels and we enjoyed Santorini in the Cascades - with a lovely blue and white Greek theme, heavenly tapas and attentive service, it was a good choice and appeared the busiest of them all excluding the Buffet at the Sun Hotel where there were hundreds of Chinese tourists. Some of the restaurants are outsourced and some are run by the hotels themselves.

The Valley of the Waves is another Sun City innovation - a beach in the middle of nowhere with continual waves to bounce you around! There are other rides to go on at Water World - again no time to try everything in just 3 days/4 nights.

Indeed, fun in the Sun!!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Pilansberg National Park, North West

 

Enjoy the wild life while at Sun City!

Entry from Sun City - get the best of both worlds!

Loads of entertainment at Sun City and then the magic of the bush in Pilandsberg.

Growing up with only chickens and ostriches as the local wildlife, I have no clue where my love of wild African animals came from. Perhaps it's just in all of us who live in Africa. My ancestors may be British and Dutch, with some Irish thrown in just for good measure, but being born in South Africa one loves the wide open spaces, the sun and stars, the blue,blue skies and the need to escape to the bush at times even though we are city dwellers. Pilansberg is a wide expanse of rolling green hills, lush vegetation and, with many surprise encounters, it makes this game reserve a great place to wander. Day entry is permitted and the reserve is truly beautiful during the summer months when there is usually plenty of rainful to keep it looking green and lush. This does make game viewing a little more difficult but then it's all about the next surprise and the wonderful sightings that can happen if you keep your eyes peeled. You could also be disappointed and ride for many kilometers without seeing anything resembling a wild animal but that's the fun of game viewing! You never know what you will find around the next corner. Hopefully, not a huge ellie in the middle of the road!

Elephants have a special place in my heart so it's always a thrill to find an "ellie" looming large. Do be careful though - these are huge, wild animals and they could turn your car over within a second. However, this is not likely to happen unless you stress them out in some way by blocking their path, disturbing their young or if you happen upon an bull elephant in "musth"  When their testosterone levels are high, they may not show any fear and could become aggressive. Look and enjoy but stay clear!

Pilansberg was established in 1979 and declared a National Park in 1984. This area was originally farm land - the cattle kraals were removed, alien trees eradicated, windmills taken down and the area allowed to become at one with nature.

A number of private game lodges are close by, some with private concessions. Access is also easy from Sun City or Rustenberg, both in North West Province.

Bird life is prolific with at least 80 species of birds to be spotted.

We were lucky to be able to view wildebeest and zebra sitting side by side with their young in the road - fascinating to watch the interaction of the young zebras with their mothers. One young zebra had a nasty gash on his/her leg and one wonders if it has survived or whether it has already become lion food. The law of nature - survival of the fittest.

Giraffe are always a pleasure to wacth - they are so graceful despite their ernormous height!

We saw many giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, rhino, buffalo, waterbuck and impala plus the lone magnificent bull elephant. Our neighbours at Sun City saw a herd of elephants with many young so it's all about being in the right place at the right time. Often one minute later, the herd has vanished into dense bush and it is as if they were never there at all.

There is a fenced off picnic/braai area called "Fish Eagle" for those who wish to stretch their legs, enjoy a picnic or barbeque in tranquil surroundings with only bird calls to distrub the bush atmosphere. The restaurant was undergoing renovations at the time of our visit.

My fascination is with anaimal behaviour and animal eyes - the lashes of a giraffe are so long and beautiful, elephants have tiny eyes in relation to their bodies and rhino's even smaller, meaner looking eyes. A rhino charge will leave you battered and bruised and wishing you had been far away in the cosy comfort of your lounge. Unfortunately, these huge, great, lumbering beats are being poached to extinction in Africa and all for their tiny little horn. Watching aninmals inter-act can be a humbling experience even though it is the survival of the fittest. We humans sometimes are just beyond understanding in cruelty towards animals.

The liquid eyes of the impala are so expressive and they are always on the alert for the slightest hint of danger. With their large ears pricked up, they take off at the slightest hint of danger.

Watch the zebra resting his head on the zebra in front of him, watch the giraffe attempting a "kiss" Long necks entwined, they are enjoying a personal moment. See the little zebra with his gashed leg, trying to get more milk off his mother who is not budging despite his temper tantrum of shaking his head and stamping his hoofs. Watch the elephant uprooting a tree and enjoying the green branches with a look of bliss on his face!

It's all so fascinating and we enjoyed a wonderful day's outing in stunning surroundings with many game sightings to keep us alert and expectant. Don't be in a rush when game viewing- it's not just about the sighting, it's about being at one with nature in her own back yard.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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