South Africa - Garden Route - Sedgefield

 

Myoli Beach Sedgefield

We recently visited Sedgefield, a town along the N2 and Garden Route of South Africa

Somehow, one always seems to bypass Sedgefield in a hurry to get to the more well known towns of Knysna or Plettenberg Bay. This time we stayed and what a surprise it turned out to be. Don't be put off by the endless row of shops lining the N2 - there is so much more to explore in this town.

We were amazed with both the history and the mosaics in this town.

The Sedgefield website is extremely well done and is well worth a read to discover just how much there is to this "Slow Town" 

https://www.discover-sedgefield-south-africa.com/

Swartvlei Estuary

We particularly loved the amazing beaches in Sedgefield - from Gericke's Point all the way to Cola Beach one can walk for miles and miles, especially at low tide.
The hike to Gericke's Point is approx. 4km and should be done at low tide. Offering lovely views and the highest fossil dunes in South Africa. It is one of those hikes that everybody needs to do at least once.
Swartvlei Beach is ideal for surfing, horse riding, running, angling or swimming
Sedgefield Lagoon mouth is on the estuary on the swimmers here love to ride with the current down towards the sea! When we first saw this we though the guy was in trouble but we soon realised that this is a favourite sport for the locals! 
Myoli Beach has a restaurant very close by - this is extremely popular. Kite surfing and fishing are popular here as well as being a sun-tanning spot during the summer months. 
For a really long run or walk, try Cola Beach - it's gorgeous, quiet and goes on forever!

We also loved walking along the river banks at low tide - accessed from The Island. Bird life was interesting and the views are lovely. We did get sucked into a very muddy patch - I nearly lost my shoes but I managed to get out without too much damage other than extremely muddy shoes and ankles!

The Saturday Market is well known and a must visit if you are in the area on a Saturday. It gets very busy so go early. 
We found the mosaics fascinating and these are found all over the town - read the history behind this project on the website link above.

All in all, an interesting and beautiful area of the Garden Route of South Africa - take some time to branch off the N2 and enjoy the peace and natural beauty that surrounds the town of Sedgefield. 

Photographers will also enjoy the various moods and lighting conditions over the estuary and the beaches - it's a fun place to visit once you realise that there is more to this Garden Route town than meets the eye from the N2!

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    For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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South Africa Garden Route - Buffalo Bay and Goukamma Nature Reserve

 

Buffalo Bay 

There are many places to visit on the Garden Route - on this day we visited Buffalo Bay, off the N2 towards Knysna. The wind was howling in "Buffs" as the surfers love to call this place. But the hardy souls had already claimed their "braai" places along the coast despite the wind! Most of the benches have surfing boards attached to them and these are all beautifully decorated. 

This bay is apparently surfers paradise but there is a "Shark Kit" as you go down to the beach.

This was most probably installed after a shark attack in 2015 when a young student lost a leg.

Whether the advice below is good or not,  

"As the shark swims around you, keep your head on a swivel and try to maintain eye contact. “Sharks are ambush predators,” Peirce explained. “If you're turning around and facing it the whole time while it circles you, it's not going to be half as comfortable as if it's able to sneak up from behind.”

However, if you are a surfer, you would chat to the locals and get up-to-date info and advice. 

Buffalo Bay 

The beach is very long and one can walk as far as Brenton on Sea, near Knysna if exercise is your daily "fix" on land rather than in the sea! As with most seaside towns in South Africa, many of the homes are holiday houses. There is a caravan park right on the rocky coastline - with amazing views if you can get a seafront stand. 

We really loved the holiday vibe of this coastal village, despite the crazy wind. People are friendly and those "braai" places just beg to be used while sitting on one of the surf board benches. There is plenty of parking and a large restaurant overlooking the bay.

Buffalo Bay

Goukamma Nature Reserve is just along the road back towards the N2.

There is a small entrance fee and the day we visited there was a large group of pensioners going to the picnic area for some bubbly, lively chatter and their picnic fare. It looked very inviting and a perfect place for a group outing.

Nature lovers can take a picnic into the reserve, or book a stay for a night or two in order to enjoy some of the hiking trails. 

Goukamma River

There are numerous hiking trails within the reserve and we watched as some hikers pulled themselves back across the river in the tiny ferry boat! It works - although maybe some muscle power is required!

Goukamma Ferry

"The reserve covers 2 500 hectares of dense coastal forest, including milkwood, yellowwood and candlewood trees. It protects the charming vervet monkey, bushbuck and bushpig, as well as porcupine, mongoose, honey badger and grysbok. This is a popular choice for keen birders, as the Goukamma River and estuary and the Groenvlei Lake provide a welcoming habitat for more than 220 bird species, including the rare African black oystercatcher. There are two indigenous and four alien species of fish found in Groenvlei Lake. Visitors enjoy the sight of the magnificent southern right whales between June and November. Bottle-nosed and humpback dolphins play in the waves throughout the year".

A great time to visit is in September/October when the first spring rains create splashes of bright spring flowers amid the fynbos. This is a year-round destination, as it falls between the Cape’s summer and winter rainfall seasons"

https://www.capenature.co.za/reserves/goukamma-nature-reserve

We loved walking along the river (park on the side of the road before you get to the entrance to the actual Reserve) as the views are amazing and the birdlife is prolific. At low tide it makes for a wonderful walk. No dogs are allowed on this section because of the bird life so please leave your doggie at home. The gulls were very protective of the youngsters and we really got told off by one of them. It was both funny and rather endearing to see this level of care from the mother of a chick that was already fairly big. There was no mistaking the fact that I was being told, in no uncertain terms, to back off.

Goukamma River Walk

The river walk was serene with only one lone fisherman seen on the opposite bank of the river. So, if you want to be in tune with nature, this walk is highly recommended. The views are awesome and it's a great spot for photography. 

Goukamma River

All in all, a great day's outing whether you are based in Sedgefield or Knysna, 

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    For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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South Africa - Garden Route to Addo Elephant Park - Part 1

Keurbooms River - Near to Plettenberg Bay

The Garden Route of the Western Cape, South Africa is world famous and one of the best attractions in the Cape, other than Cape Town!! Sorry - we are slightly biased as regards our Mother City! Our drive started at about 9.am and traffic was not too heavy given that the school terms have started for the year and the crazy peak holiday season is past. There are a number of good places to stop for breakfast or a snack along the N2 - favourites are the Blue Crane Coffee Shop and  Die Rooi Alwyn (The Red Aloe). The latter is situated amongst a few interesting shops - one selling gorgeously scented candles, interesting goodies and children's items.

Santos Beach. Mossel Bay

Mossel Bay is an interesting town (see my "Memories of Mossel Bay" Blog) although perhaps not as well-known  as the other towns on the Garden Route. The history goes back to Bartholemew Dias and the museum complex is well worth a browse. Mossel Bay currently (2012) has 3 Blue Flag beaches and the swimming in these waters is perfect for families as it is safe and the waters are warm. With various activities available, such as Shark Cage Diving, trips around Seal Island or a visit to Jukani Wildlife Sanctuary, this town could capture your interest for a few days or a purely lazy week's beach holiday. It remains one of my favourite places for a laid back beach break. The obligatory drive down Marsh Street and around the Point has to take place before we can say good-bye to Mossel Bay and head further down the coast. On our way out we were driving behind a lorry with about 5 workers on the back. One has to assume that they were happily finished work for the day or else truly hammered as the one guy was dancing away to the music on his MP3 Player and nearly fell over every time the lorry turned. Another chap was laughing so heartily that his missing front teeth were most prominent! We passed them further along the highway - still dancing and laughing at me when I took a quick photo!

Further along the N2 you will pass Little Brak, Great Brak, Herold's Bay and a number of holiday places along the coast. If you have the time, a wander into any of these will give you insight into the South African culture of "beach" holidays. Many of the homes will be tightly shut waiting for the next holiday period when the owners will descend with the braai tongs, boerewors and many beers. Retirees also favour the Garden Route for it's tranquillity.

Once past George, you have the option of branching off to Victoria Bay - a well known surfing spot. Just watch out for the rip near to the rocks on the far side of the beach. It's a tiny little place that attracts many day trippers and has a character all of it's own with just 1 road. Perfect for a lazy day or two.

The road now starts to twist and turn until you reach the Wilderness. Do stop here to look at the very long beach which stretches forever. The Touws River runs through the village and is idyllic.

Our first overnight stop is at Wilderness at Moontide Guest House which overlooks the river. It's a perfect spot for a break. The beach beckoned soon after checking in so off we headed to stretch the legs after our drive from Cape Town. Wilderness beach is perfect for long, long beach walks, especially so at low tide. You can walk for miles, inhaling the fresh sea air, greeting the loc als walking their dogs or spotting the strange bits of flotsam and jetsam on the shore. A number of jellyfish had washed ashore and the little creatures feeding on them were quite intent on getting their fill. Rather grim looking actually!

Wilderness is known for being a perfect spot along the coast for paragliding and the Friday afternoon gliders were out catching the thermals above the road. What better way to finish off the week? It' s a gem of a place with the scent of the milkwood trees all round. Such a unique scent - thankfully, milkwood trees are protected and cannot be cut down. Besides the beach, there is a boardwalk along the lagoon, plus a more arduous walk up the Kingfisher Trail. This trail goes up to a waterfall and takes about 3 hours return. It is approx. 13 km and is a great way to blow out the cobwebs or stress of the city. Most of the trail is along a board walk so it can be completed by anybody with a reasonable fitness level.

Moontide has canoes for a leisurely paddle up or down river - for those who prefer just watching others do this, the deck is just the place to enjoy the scenery from the shade! The original home was built in 1928 and hosted many illustrious guests during it's heyday. Fact is often stranger than fiction and a passionate love triangle resulted in the death of  the mistress. Sadly, the house was then abandoned and by the time it was put up for sale it was in serious need of repair. Purchased by Maureen Mansfield, it has been restored, improved and expanded to the current guest house which opened to paying guests in 1994.

Supper was enjoyed at Salina's Restaurant overlooking the beach. I chose tapas thinking it would be light, leaving room for dessert! Well, 3 Thai Style fishcakes, 4 Chicken Satays and roasted peppers were too much although I did manage most of it. James enjoyed a huge plate of calamari. The desserts sounded good so we managed to find some extra space - and they were delicious! With a great view of the ocean and friendly staff, it was a relaxing experience. Unfortunately, it appears that diners the previous day were bothered by smokers on the patio and were apparently told that "smokers also have rights" Really? In South Africa where restaurants are all supposed to be non-smoking? If that had happened to us we would have walked out, never to return!!!

After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed off to take some photos and found an every bigger number of  paragliders floating effortlessly above the highway. So if you fancy this idea, try a tandem experience. It looks so effortless and free. At current prices of R550, it's a great way to experience the views over Wilderness - if you dare!

Sedgefield has a Farmers Market called Wild Oats which takes place every Saturday morning. It is so popular that parking is always a problem - get there early and enjoy breakfast before spending all your money. Afterwards you can hire a kayak to explore the lagoon.

Knysna was our next on our agenda to visit a friend who owns and runs "Shoreline Villa" situated near the Heads. What an amazing spot right of the Knysna lagoon. Just gazing at the view would be enough for me to unwind totally. This house is perfect for couples on holiday together or those with children as the house is hired out fully furnished and equipped for a superb holiday experience. At low tide one can walk to Leisure Isle, another gem of a place.

Knysna has many activities to enjoy - our favourite is a visit to Featherbed Nature Reserve. A scenic boat ride across the lagoon takes you across to the Nature Reserve to enjoy amazing views from the Heritage site. Lunch is under the Milkwood Trees and then a stroll down 2.2km path leads you back to the ferry. For those who only want a cruise you can choose from South Africa's only paddle driven vessel or the John Benn or for those seeking more of a thrill, try the rivercat cruise to the heads (weather permitting)

  

After a brisk walk around Leisure Isle, we headed back to "Shoreline Villa" for a much needed icy drink, before driving  back to Moontide for a relaxing few hours on the deck before wandering into the village to eat at "The Girls" Restaurant. This is run by 2 girls - in case you are wondering - and opened in 2007. They have won many awards and it's a cool place to dine with good food, relaxed ambience and a chef (one of the girls!) who takes the time to visit each table. It's a welcome personal touch.

Sadly, we had to leave Moontide the next morning after another great breakfast on the deck.

Next instalment - Wilderness to Storms River.

© Judelle Drake

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For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com