Who would ever have thought that the world would come to a stand-still during 2020 and beyond? It seemed unreal at the time and it still seems like a horror movie or something that has descended from an alien world far away to scare us all witless, ruin our economies and make travel an impossible dream.
What really hurts me is the very new connotation of the word "WAVE"
Having grown up so close to our beautiful Garden Route in South Africa, "waves" meant fun in the sun during those endless summer holidays when time seemed to stand still, the sun baked down on our tanned limbs and the sea always seemed to sparkle and beckon until all resistance crumbled and we dashed back into the waves despite the fact that darkness was looming and hunger pangs were telling us it was time to head home.
Today, as we in South Africa are in our 3rd Wave, this word "Wave" has become something to be scared off and the unpleasant thoughts that follow every mention of it are best shoved to the back of our minds.
Given that International travel was impossible, we planned a Road Trip in South Africa and we managed, by pure luck, to time it just right.
So May 2021 was our adventure around South Africa and it was indeed an incredible experience.
We planned to drive rather than fly and hire a car - more for safety reasons than cost implications.
Cape Town to Beaufort West - N1
The N1 is a busy road as it carries much freight backwards and forwards from Johannesburg to Cape Town and beyond. The truck drivers are pretty good and will always pull over if it safe to do so (Yellow Lane Driving is not allowed by some companies) or they will show that it is safe to pass. However, it is nowhere near as daunting as the Autobahn in Germany - that scared us witless - the mental scars still remain!
The Hex River Valley is one of the highlights of this journey - do stop and enjoy the sights of this splendid valley, no matter what the season. Stunning in autumn, cold in winter when the snows blanket the mountains and hot and dry in the summer months.
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| Hex River Valley South Africa |
"The entire Hex River Valley is a sight for sore eyes. Filled with vineyards and fruit farms it is a beautiful route to travel at any time of year, but when the leaves of the grape vines begin to deepen and shades of brown, red and orange dominate the scenery, it is particularly beautiful. And there is a local story about Eliza Meiring that tinges the valley with further colour.
Very beautiful and wanted by every man in the district back in the late 1700s, she announced that she would only consider marriage to a man who could bring her a disa flower. The kind that grew at fairly nerve-wracking heights in the mountains. One of her suitors died in pursuit thereof and Eliza suffered a subsequent nervous breakdown. Before committing suicide she carved the date and her initials into a wooden window sill, still there today in one of the old homesteads on the original farms.
It is from this story that the 'hex' part of the valley and pass come. Hex is 'witch' in Afrikaans and her ghost, in the form of swirling mists over the summits, is when the witch is on the mountain.
The Hex River pass itself was built in 1875 and a railway passes over it as well. From De Doorns the railway climbs to 960 metres above sea level in the space of a mere 25 kilometres".
Text Courtesy SA Venues
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| Matjiesfontein South Africa |
We stopped for breakfast at Matjiesfontein - an old worlde village that is truly from a bygone era.
The museums are fascinating as is the architecture. The Lord Milner Hotel has been welcoming guests forever and we sincerely hope that they can also weather the Covid Storm and continue to host guests from around the globe..
"It is curious, and to me very attractive this mixture of civilization & the most wild untamed freedom; the barren mountains & wild Karoo & the railway train."- Olive Schreiner, March 25th, 1890"
Beaufort West
The Karoo - you will either hate it or love it - sunshine, blue skies, amazing vistas, the chance to enjoy a donkey cart ride, or to visit the Christiaan Barnard Museum.
Christiaan Neethling Barnard (November 8, 1922 - September 2, 2001) was a South African cardiac surgeon, famous for performing the world's first successful human-to-human heart transplant.
This is the town for Karoo Lamb if that's what you fancy - a restaurant above a Petrol Station is called "The 4 Sheep"
The Karoo National Park is well worth a visit, more for the scenery than the animals. The entrance to the Park is just before Beaufort West on the Cape Town side.
We then turned off the N1 onto the N12 to Kimberley.
This is an amazing road, the truck drivers are extremely courteous and always indicate when it is safe to overtake. As the road is pretty straight for long stretches, this was one of the nicer roads that we drove on. The vistas are incredible - it feels like a huge blue umbrella with the ends way over in the distance - so vast is the sky above! Just you and the wide open spaces that South Africa is famous for. This land starts to slow one down after the pace of the city - embrace it and enjoy. We stopped just after Hopetown to view the Orange River
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| Orange River South Africa |
Kimberley:
We are now in Northern Cape Province of South Africa
Established 5th July 1873 this is the largest city in this province.
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| Big Hole, Kimberley, South Africa |
Diamonds and Kimberley are linked in history. The Big Hole Museum is a must see. "Kimberley Big Hole History
150 years ago, the site of the Big Hole was a featureless, flat-topped hill. When word spread that diamonds had been discovered, thousands of prospectors, armed with nothing more than picks, shovels and hope, descended on Kimberley and created the largest hand-dug excavation in the world.
Kimberly is one of the most unique and authentic historical destinations in South Africa, because of the Kimberley diamond mine, which occupies a surface of 17 hectares, 463 meters wide, for a depth of 240 meters, and it used to be active since 1871 to 1914. The Big Hole in Kimberley is considered for one of the deepest cavities excavated by man with a depth of 200 m2. Next to the Big Hole is the Kimberley Mine Museum, the first ever discovery of diamond reserves in the country. One of the most interesting facts about the Big Hole in Kimberley is that after the mining operations were finally over, the Big Hole become the most visited tourist attraction in Kimberley"
Courtesy www.kimberley.co.za
Cecil John Rhodes and Barney Barnato were mining magnates in their day. The actual display of real diamonds is heavily guarded in a vault - this door is so solid, it's serious stuff! And there is a Security guard. James enjoyed telling this guy how many times he had been subjected to the inevitable x-rays after working on De Beers vessels. The various buildings show times long gone and it is an interesting part of South African history.
Kimberley to Sun City and Pilansberg
The vegetation changes from Karoo scrub to greener bushes to fields and fields of corn and sunflowers!
In Bloemhof we asked the petrol attendant what all the trucks were carrying so he said "Just wait"
He then dashed off and returned with a heavy, black piece of coal!
This travelled with us for the rest of the journey and is still sitting in my car!
Turning off the N12, we left all the trucks behind. After following and passing them for so long it was quite strange. This route took us thru towns like Hartbeesfontein, Ventersdorp, Koster, Boshoek and our destination Sun City. The roads were ok with only minor potholes. this is also farming area so the scenery changed from Karoo scrub and grasslands.
We are now in North West Province - the place for perfect weather!
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| Impala, Pilansberg, South Africa |
We stay in Sun City as it is so close to Pilansberg National Park.
This massive resort opened in 1979 and the accommodation varies from hotels to Self-catering cottages and apartments. Swimming pools, Valley of the Waves, Water Sports, Casino, Restaurants plus 2 golf courses, means that there is something for everybody here.
We love our early morning walks on the Lost City Golf Course - great views, birdlife and fresh air!
There are a number of gates into Pilansberg, the scenery is beautiful, the roads are not great but the sightings of animals more than make up for a bumpy road! As with any large park, game sightings are not guaranteed, so be patient, enjoy the drive, relax in the hides and be overcome when you get to see animals up close. Just take care if you encounter elephants on the narrow roads - rather reverse to be safe. We loved all our sightings with the most special being leopards on our last day!
"Some of the most beautiful scenery within the entire park can be viewed in the Mankwe Dam region. The dam is the largest body of water in the game reserve. This makes it the perfect place to spot a wide variety of animals. water-buck, wildebeest, zebra and impala are among the animals that make a stopover on the grassland bordering the dam.
For bird lovers, there is a bird hide very close to the water’s edge. Make sure you take note of the fish eagles, kingfishers and cormorants circling the dam. All of these places provide many a fantastic opportunity to photograph the plentiful array of fauna and flora.
Pilanesberg National Park, or Pilanesberg Game Reserve as it is often called, is located in the Bojanala Region, within the North West Province and relatively near Johannesburg. With an area of 550km², it is the fourth largest park in South Africa. The volcano crater in which the park is situated erupted 1300 million years ago. Pilanesberg was originally owned by 3 of the local tribes. Many of the Stone Age and Iron Age sites around the reserve show proof of the presence of man".
- Park Area: 550km²
- Currency: South African Rand
- Seasons: Dry season in the winter months (April to September), and wet season in the summer months (October to March)
- Popular attractions: Big 5, hot air-ballooning, day trips, Lost City at Sun City
- Nearby airports: O.R. Tambo International (220km)/Pilanesberg International Airport (inside the park)
- Nearest cities: Johannesburg, Pretoria, Rustenburg
- www.pilansbergnationalpark.org
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| Giraffe, Pilansberg, South Africa |
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| Leopard, Pilansberg, South Africa |
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De-horned Rhino, Pilansberg, South Africa
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After our wonderful week in Pilansberg with such amazing sightings, we headed off to Mpumalanga Province for some hiking in amazing locations off the beaten track. We did not do all the tourist sightseeing this time like God's Window, Blyde River Canyon etc - these are all trips to enjoy for the first time visitor to the province. Our first stop was Mount Sheba, 10 kms off the road to Pilgrims Rest. Our cottage was great - the sun rising in the morning and shining into the bedroom was just the warmth and beauty that we needed to kick-start our day. This resort/hotel offers a number of hikes on the property such as "Hackett's Kitchen Trail", "old Digging's Trail" "Gola Gola Trail" "Lost City Trail" plus a few more.
We loved the peace and greenery on the "Marco's Mantle Trail and the waterfall was stunning.
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| Marco Mantle Trail, Mount Sheba, South Africa |
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| Marco Mantle Trail, Mount Sheba, South Africa |
As with all hiking maps. one stills needs to be very careful! We headed off to the Sheba Lookout Trail which intersected with the Tim Hartwright loop. The views from this trail are stunning and we were thoroughly enjoying the crisp mountain air. In these forested areas, controlled burns often take place and we could see one in the distance. The trail suddenly became very narrow so we decided to turn around due to time restraints and then we lost the trail! How on earth we managed that I have no idea but clambering up steep cliffs littered with boulders was not such fun! And we still could not find the right path. So we had to phone for assistance. The 3 trackers eventually found us after we started feeling the afternoon chill creeping in. The elderly tracker was quite incensed that the trail markings were not correct hence our "getting lost" issue. Another steep climb uphill over more boulders eventually brought us back to the path. With sore legs and aching knees, the fire in our cottage and some fortifying drinks, restored our good humour!
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| Sheba Look-out Trail, Mount Sheba, South Africa |
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| Sheba Lookout Trail, Mount Sheba, South Africa |
Pilgrims Rest is an old, historical mining town of yesteryear. This tiny town went thru a slump a number of years ago but efforts have been made to return to its former glory and an interesting historical place to visit. You cannot own property in Pilgrims Rest - shop owners are offered homes to rent. We loved chatting to a local resident Trevor King who has a wealth of information having lived in the town for 15 years and having visited prior to that as his mother lived there.
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| Pilgrims Rest, South Africa |
"Pilgrim's Rest is situated on the magnificent Panorama Route in the Kruger Lowveld region of the Mpumalanga province of South Africa. The area is richly imbued with a diversity of natural, cultural and historic gems. The uniqueness of this historic village is vividly evident in its museums and historic sites. It offers the visitor a fascinating window into the past, and captures the spirit of a bygone era and its people in their quest for gold
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| Old Cemetery, Pilgrims Rest, South Africa |
The Old Cemetery is well worth a visit - some many folk died so very young during those mining days. Many graves are folk from Wales - such brave explorers looking for gold and then dying so far from home. It brings a tear to the eye.The entire town of Pilgrim's Rest was declared a National Monument in 1986 as a living memory of the early gold rush days in South Africa during the late 1800s / early 1900s"
www.pilgrims-rest.co.za
Robbers Pass leading into Pilgrims Rest offers amazing vistas and an interesting drive!
"Not only does the road to Robbers Pass offer some breathtaking views, it is also steeped in history. In 1899 two masked and armed highwaymen held up the stage coach and robbed it of £10,000 worth of gold. They were never brought to justice. The second robbery (in the exact same spot) happened 13 years later (1912)"
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| Robbers Pass, Pilgrims Rest, South Africa |
Our final destination for more hiking and relaxation in the sun took us to Verlorenkloof Estate, a 1600ha Farm. - we drove from Lydenberg on the R36 down south - oh my word - the road can no longer be called a road - potholes from hell with huge trucks from the company Ni-Da also trying not to damage their tyres while dodging both cars and potholes.
Only after we reached Lake Kwena on the R36 did the road become a road again! We have been told that plans are in place to fix this stretch so here's hoping! Having said that, driving a road so full of potholes is quite an adventure in itself and all part of the South African experience in Mpumalanga Province!
The scenery and hikes here are simply gorgeous and the crofts are set well aprt from their neighbours so it truly was a manificent place to unwind, enjoy the mountain scenery, the Crocodile River and the various hikes.
The farm has 5 dams and they are all very photogenic if one is not into trout fishing!
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| Verlorenkloof Estate, South Africa |
"Situated in a secluded valley along the eastern escarpment of the province, the Crocodile River forms a natural border to the Estate. The land then sweeps up through wetland and open grassland to the forested kloofs of the Steenkampsberg and the Dullstroom highlands, creating a biodiverse landscape that is a joy to visit in any season. Verlorenkloof is surrounded by a settled and strongly custodial farming community offering peace, quiet and a tangible level of safety and security"
www.verlorenkloof.co.za
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| Verlorenkloof Estate, South Africa |
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| Crocodile River, Verlorenkloof, South Africa |
Sadly, we then had to start the long trek back to Cape Town.
The drive started on the N4 - road works encountered but otherwise OK.
The hardest part was getting onto the N3 as we are not used to Johannesburg traffic being from sleepy Cape Town.
Our 6.5 hour drive took us thru 3 Provinces - Mpumalanga, Gauteng and Free State.
The Free State is very flat, with corn fields, sunflowers, sheep and cows.
The N1 is great in this section - either double carriageway or with many passing lanes.
We did an overnight stop in Bloemfontein and went up Naval Hill to view the city and watch the locals getting their daily exercise. There is an impressive bronze statue of Nelson Mandela, the largest in the world, standing proudly high above the city.
"The Naval Hill Park Run is a 5km and takes place every Saturday. The time is dependent on the season. During the summer months (October to March) the park run begins at 7 am. In the winter months (April to September) the park run begins at 8 am"
"Naval Hill is an odd name for a hill in the center of South Africa without a dockyard or sea in sight. It got it’s name from the two Naval Guns that were on the hill by the British during the Anglo-Boer war".
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"Naval Hill forms part of the Franklin game reserve. Giraffe, buck, ostrich and many more forms of wildlife live in the game reserve. There are no large predators and not hunting allowed. This makes the Franklin game reserve safe for walkers and joggers"
www.bloemfonteintourism.co.za
Our last leg took us down to Beaufort West again, then a detour to McGregor for lunch before heading back to Cape Town.
You will see many, many trucks on all the highways.
However, we found the drivers very courteous and the driving overall was excellent.
We travelled in a Mazda CX5, spacious, comfortable, loads of luggage space!
We managed all the roads - however, we did not attempt any specified 4X4 trails.
This trip could be done at any time of the year - however, we did it in May when it is warm enough for shorts/t\shirts yet cool enough for hiking.
During the summer months, it can get very hot (December/January/February)
It was a wonderful way to see so many parts of the country and travel thru so many provinces.
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| N12 Highway, South Africa |
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| Windmills, South Africa |
Until next time....
For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa
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