Spain - without the Bulls!

Spain - without the Bulls

Sunny Spain beckoned for a whirl-wind tour but we landed at a freezing Heathrow and had to wait for the National Express bus to take us to Gatwick for the flight to Malaga, Spain. The BA flight was very noisy with screaming kids and I was sooooo tired. We were told to wait at a mini bus stop for the lift to the  Car Hire place but the driver shook his head at us and trundled off. So we waited! It was the correct bus so after a phone call the chap came back – very surly and not much of a welcome to Spain. The car hire place was very busy so we were handed the car and off we drove. Only later did we discover it was a diesel model.  Next came the fun part – we were on the road to Benamaldena when James decided that we had to go to Malaga!! 2.5 hrs later, after getting horribly lost in Malaga, and many phone calls to the resort we headed back the way we had come and eventually found the Timeshare Sahara Sunset Club in Benamaldena. Never trust a man with directions! They refuse to ask for help and will make you suffer for so long before admitting that they are LOST!!! The staff at the resort were very pleasant; but told me I looked totally shattered and should get to bed soon! So we ate a quick pizza in the restaurant and then collapsed into bed. So tired I did not even wake for the loo that night!! Which is a major miracle!

               
Refreshed, we awoke the next morning and headed off to find food. We found a great café for breakfast just down the road from the resort on the beachfront called “The Last Resort” The Vegetarian Breakfast consisted of egg, tomato, mushrooms, baked beans, hash browns, toast, marmalade and tea/coffee. Excellent value at E3.50 and very consistent. We returned there every day -it was so good.  As we had been travelling for so long and felt quite stiff, we decided that today was a “walking” day so off we set to explore Benamaldena. We found a lovely park, full of locals and their children, then walked further and took the cable car up the mountain for stunning views of the Costa da Sol.  We also enjoyed a raptor display – amazing birds.

The section of the Costa del Sol from Torremolinos going west to Fuengirola and including Benalmadena is characterised by high-rise tourist developments. This can be seen from the cable car. Apparently, recent developments have much stricter planning regulations than in the early days with a focus on better quality tourism.  

The mountain air was very bracing and certainly cleared away the stale aircraft air from our lungs. After the long walk down we were peckish again so walked towards the yacht club. There are lots of pavement cafes with the owners “braaing” (barbecue) either meat or fish and trying to tempt you to a table. We opted for roast beef and pork but it was very bland and, sadly, not worth a repeat visit.

Monday:

Ronda was on the agenda today so off we set, enduring a rather a torturous climb. The roads are not very well sign posted which did not help matters. Despite being Andalucía's fastest growing town, Ronda retains much of its historic charm, particularly in the old town. It is famous worldwide for its dramatic escarpments and views, and for the deep El Tajo gorge that carries the Rio Guadalevín through its centre. The 18th century Puente Nuevo 'new' bridge, which straddles the 100m chasm below, is usually the first stop for most visitors as it enjoys amazing views out over the Serranía de Ronda Mountains.

Ronda is also famous as the birthplace of modern bullfighting but we don't really like the idea of this sport so did not visit the famous bullring. We decided to take the “old Mine” tour  and went down many, many steps right to the bottom. The problem was that we then had to go all the way back up again! Good exercise if the knees can hold out!

 In the middle of the bizarre mountain range Serranía de Ronda, at the edge of a 120 meters deep and 70 meters wide canyon, there is Ronda - certainly one of the most incredible spots to visit.

The famous and really breath-taking bridge alone is worth the travel, but Ronda has more to offer: the only bullring in all Spain which is entirely made of stone, and several interesting buildings from the Moorish period.
We did not find the food in Spain very exciting - we visited a pizzeria where the food was positively the worst we have both ever tasted. Perhaps they try and please the many British tourists and in so doing, have lost the Spanish plot. 
Tuesday:
We headed out to Nerja on the N340 - although only 50 km there are lots of stop/starts with the many traffic lights and the  area is extremely built up. But Nerja is certainly worth a visit - it is well-kept with lovely, old winding streets, lots of Spanish pubs, a great beach and tons of interesting looking restaurants. After our hearty breakfast, we could not try them unfortunately. Much to our sorrow!   
With over 400 pubs and restaurants, there is a great choice and there are many other things to do in the area if one is staying longer.

The best village visited during our stay was Frigliana - what a delight. Narrow cobbled streets in this "white Village" just beg to be explored, - you never know what you will find - a pub, a shop selling interesting goods, a beautiful planter of geraniums, or a friendly soul who speaks English.

In the "new" part of the village we came across a "graveyard" next to a church. The memorials are all stacked one upon the other, with photos of the deceased, gorgeous flowers - it was a delight to view such a peaceful haven for those departed - not like so many lonely graveyards.

The streets are uphill so some stamina is required to view this town properly but it is well worth the effort. The houses are Moorish in appearance and so well kept. Its built high up on the hillside so enjoys lovely views and it must be good to live in this town. We spent a number of hours exploring before heading back to Benamaldena.

Thankfully, we did find a good restaurant - called la Taberna Santa Ana where the service was excellent and the food was very good. A little pricey for our budget but well worth it. It's is family run and has been in business for 15 years now so well established. We returned a few times and were not disappointed.

Wednesday:
After a hearty breakfast we decided that Marbella would be a good spot to visit to enjoy a swim. Oh my, the highway is pretty fast and it's so built up, that we missed the turning to Marbella and just went whizzing past! So we did a quick consult with the map and decided to head for the hills and Istan instead. It turned out to be a good choice - a very windy road with many twists and turns brought us to a gorgeous authentic Spanish village high up in the hills. We wandered around and kept bumping into a fish peddler selling his wares from the back of his van. He would stop every now and again, shout himself hoarse, sometimes somebody would come out and sometimes not! He was quite amused that we wanted to take his picture! He sold a fair amount of his sardines before we left him for a cold beer in the village square. Life appears very slow in these parts - no rush at all. There is always tomorrow! And tomorrow.....!

A swim was on the cards so we headed off to Estapona where we found a quiet local beach but the water appeared rather dirty. We did enjoy a little time out in the sun before heading back. I kept seeing these little green crosses which I took to be traffic lights (lucky I was not the driver!!) Gosh, I said, the Spanish must truly be devout Catholics to have all their traffic lights in the forms of crosses. Well, James exploded and nearly drove off the road - those are Pharmacy signs, you idiot, he said! One lives and learns!!

Thursday:
A long drive to the Sierra Nevada Mountains which I just had to visit for myself having always heard so much about this beautiful range. And guess what? There was still snow to be had on the mountain tops whilst it was blazing hot down at the coast. Two climates within a few hours of each other! The Ski village we came to must be a hive of activity during the ski season but now it was just a load of hotels, backpackers, hostels, etc all shut up tight until the next ski season. The village looks very forlorn all closed and shuttered - like a lost orphan waiting for it's mother to return. We walked up to play in the remaining snow drifts as the weather was pretty warm. Having grown up in Oudtshoorn with extreme heat in summer and chillblain cold in winter, snow is still a novelty for me as the only snow we ever saw was on top of the Swartberg Mountains, high up on the slopes with not a ski lift in sight. We certainly felt the ice-cold during winter from those mountains, which are incredibly beautiful, but offer no fun and games in the snow!

The roads in Spain are very good, mainly dual-carriage ways, fast moving but good driving. The road signs had us confused on many occasions until we sort of figured out the Spanish way of thinking. The take-over by the British on the coast has spoilt Spain to my mind - it is so developed as to be "characterless" in many places.



Friday:
With much more to see but no time left in our whirl-wind tour of the Costa da Sol and surrounding areas , we decided on a "car-free" day and set off on the walk from Benamaldena to Torremolinos. The walk along the beachfront goes on for miles, with loads of beach restaurants and bars, we heard many different languages being spoken and the area is very lively. The beaches all had the obligatory beach umbrellas, there was an area with paddle-boats which we would have loved but they were quite large and required a minimum of 3 persons to man them so we had to ditch that idea. There was quite a bit of topless bathing - James eyes were out on stalks! As you can gather, we don't have too much of that in South Africa! Beer and Tapas were enjoyed at various spots along the way and we thoroughly enjoyed the walk although it was fairly long. As I did not want to be hampered by my heavy camera, there are no photos of this area but the walk was great and can be recommended.

For our last night we decided to give all the British restaurants a miss and eat in at the resort's Casbah restaurant. The food was pretty mediocre but a singer came on and livened things up well. Two old Spanish dears kept dancing to the music and asking for more Spanish songs. Four ladies in a room across from the restaurant were dancing away with beer bottles in their hands - they were having a ball and eventually arrived at the restaurant in hysterics at their own antics! It made for a very amusing evening and kept us laughing.

It rained that night - sad to see us go? The drips keep me away all night which did not bode well for our day's travelling the following day.

We enjoyed Spain but do feel that it has lost much of it's Spanish identity as the Spaniards seem to pander to the tourists  - perhaps this is only true of the Costa da Sol? We loved the tiny villages where life seems to have stood still, the snow still clinging to the Sierra Nevada mountains and the lively feel of the Costa da Sol with it's many holiday makers. So, despite not seeming so very Spanish on the coast, it's a great area to visit and there is loads to do to keep one occupied. It was impossible to cover every nook and cranny and many folk return year after year to enjoy the sunshine, the beaches, the shopping and the many pubs and restaurants.

Hopefully, we will be back as there is still  much more to explore in this country!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Sun City, North West

Sun City - the name conjures up images of loads of fun in the famous South African sun! It is indeed a huge complex with massive grounds and 4 hotels, The Palace, The Sun Hotel, The Cascades and the Cabanas. The Vacation Club is Timeshare and takes up a fair proportion of the very large and beautifully laid out grounds. The Palace Hotel is 5*, opulent and ostentatious. Tours were allowed previously but no longer as the high paying guests prefer their privacy from gaping plebs like us, who can't afford the astronomical prices to stay in the hotel.

However, it's a great vacation spot wherever you stay and there is plenty to do - so much so that we did not get to see/do everything in the 4 nights we spent at the Vacation Club. A lovely 3 bed unit gave us plenty of space and we had great neighbours - one from North West Province and Hollanders on the other side. Further down a family with 2 small children resided and entertained us when dad took out the soccer balls every evening. The baby was barely walking and the little boy, who obviously loves his soccer, kicked a fair distance and used both feet! Perhaps I should have got his autograph? He could be the next generation, David Beckham?

It can be hot and very humid at Sun City. The air-conditioners creak and groan and are so loud as to defy sleep - they appear about 30 years old. Modern air-cons are so quiet that one tends to forget to switch them off! But that's in the Vacation Club - perhaps the hotels have quieter ones.

We are not golfers but did enjoy the beautiful scenery and surroundings of both the Lost City Golf Course and the Gary Player Golf Course. It's enough to make one want to take up golf - playing on such beautiful courses can only be a pleasure. The concierge challenged me to return and take up golf - fat chance!! But it could mean some weight loss so maybe I must consider the challenge.....who knows! There are jogging trails at both golf courses so you can get in some exercise without hitting a tiny white ball.

 

We walked around the Lost City Golf course on the day they were closed so we did not have to dodge any golf balls - it is really beautiful yet is surpassed by the Gary Player course (see picture) which we did not have time to walk around. Expensive to play a round but well worth it, I would imagine if you are an avid golfer!

The gardens at Sun City are a delight and there are various walks through gardens that could feature in Garden and Home! No expense has been spared and there are many water features, streams, lakes etc.  Various paths and trails are laid out, some more strenuous than others, but these are marked as such.

Once you arrive, you are not allowed to move your car unless you are going out of the complex. The buses and taxi's run regularly and are all free of charge. It's an excellent way of keeping traffic to a minimum and yet transporting guests to whichever place they wish to go.

There are many activities to choose from and it is impossible to do them all in a few days - however, everybody has different needs and preferences so choose either to lie at the pools, gamble the night away, play some golf, do some walking, enjoy the water-sports, eat yourself silly at the many restaurants etc etc!

 We did a tour of the Crocodile Farm which was exceptionally interesting. I had never realised that huge, mean crocs would come like babies when called for food! It was a total eye-opener. This farm has thousands of crocodiles (not all in this area) and they are farmed for their skins. The guide was very informative although he tended to address one side of the audience so we could not always hear everything that was being said. The crocs vary in size from babies to huge monsters, many years old. Although the staff enter the one particular pen and feed the crocs by hand, it would not be something to attempt in the wild. So fierce looking, those teeth are still giving me nightmares! It's amazing how silent all wild animals are and the crocs glide through the water with hardly a ripple to advertise their presence in the water. Crocs are cold-blooded so they can only control their body temperature by basking in the sun on cold days, opening their mouths for the wind to cool them down, lying in the shade on hot days and lying very still. This makes them appear very lethargic and lazy but don't go too close - you will see how fast they can react when required! If you are ever in a position of being attacked by a croc - stab the eyes and nostrils.

Don't do a practice run, it could be fatal. 

The Butterfly area was rather disappointing as the rain had apparently killed many of the butterflies a few nights before we visited. The guide does explain the various stages of their life cycle and there were some butterflies around but not many.

Pilansberg National Park has an entrance just past the Vacation Club so it is easily accessible for a day's outing and is well worth the trip. See my Blog on Pilansberg for more details  We thoroughly enjoyed our day as did our Dutch neighbours who were lucky enough to see baby elephants whilst we only saw one very big lone bull! The Park has the Big 5 - get up early for the best game sightings. Game drives are very popular from Sun City and the game vehicles passed us every night coming back from their sunset drives. Whilst we preferred to do our own drive, the game vehicles are much higher and you have the added information given to you by the rangers. Well worth the trip.

There are 2 aviaries at Sun City plus a predator bird display which we did not get to see. The birds were being fed when we walked into the one aviary so they were all bustling about and jostling for the tastiest morsels of fruit.

Gambling is not for me - as somebody who could withstand the temptation in Las Vegas with its many huge gambling halls, Sun City was never going to tempt me! However, there are many who enjoy a flutter or two, or three or.....the really big players who get free accommodation as they play regularly for such high stakes.  We did see some players on the 02c machines - that could mean a long night before any winnings materialise!

 

Sun City does have something for everyone whether it's just lazing at the various pools, golfing, gambling, taking in a night time show or game viewing. There are plenty of restaurants in the various hotels and we enjoyed Santorini in the Cascades - with a lovely blue and white Greek theme, heavenly tapas and attentive service, it was a good choice and appeared the busiest of them all excluding the Buffet at the Sun Hotel where there were hundreds of Chinese tourists. Some of the restaurants are outsourced and some are run by the hotels themselves.

The Valley of the Waves is another Sun City innovation - a beach in the middle of nowhere with continual waves to bounce you around! There are other rides to go on at Water World - again no time to try everything in just 3 days/4 nights.

Indeed, fun in the Sun!!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Pilansberg National Park, North West

 

Enjoy the wild life while at Sun City!

Entry from Sun City - get the best of both worlds!

Loads of entertainment at Sun City and then the magic of the bush in Pilandsberg.

Growing up with only chickens and ostriches as the local wildlife, I have no clue where my love of wild African animals came from. Perhaps it's just in all of us who live in Africa. My ancestors may be British and Dutch, with some Irish thrown in just for good measure, but being born in South Africa one loves the wide open spaces, the sun and stars, the blue,blue skies and the need to escape to the bush at times even though we are city dwellers. Pilansberg is a wide expanse of rolling green hills, lush vegetation and, with many surprise encounters, it makes this game reserve a great place to wander. Day entry is permitted and the reserve is truly beautiful during the summer months when there is usually plenty of rainful to keep it looking green and lush. This does make game viewing a little more difficult but then it's all about the next surprise and the wonderful sightings that can happen if you keep your eyes peeled. You could also be disappointed and ride for many kilometers without seeing anything resembling a wild animal but that's the fun of game viewing! You never know what you will find around the next corner. Hopefully, not a huge ellie in the middle of the road!

Elephants have a special place in my heart so it's always a thrill to find an "ellie" looming large. Do be careful though - these are huge, wild animals and they could turn your car over within a second. However, this is not likely to happen unless you stress them out in some way by blocking their path, disturbing their young or if you happen upon an bull elephant in "musth"  When their testosterone levels are high, they may not show any fear and could become aggressive. Look and enjoy but stay clear!

Pilansberg was established in 1979 and declared a National Park in 1984. This area was originally farm land - the cattle kraals were removed, alien trees eradicated, windmills taken down and the area allowed to become at one with nature.

A number of private game lodges are close by, some with private concessions. Access is also easy from Sun City or Rustenberg, both in North West Province.

Bird life is prolific with at least 80 species of birds to be spotted.

We were lucky to be able to view wildebeest and zebra sitting side by side with their young in the road - fascinating to watch the interaction of the young zebras with their mothers. One young zebra had a nasty gash on his/her leg and one wonders if it has survived or whether it has already become lion food. The law of nature - survival of the fittest.

Giraffe are always a pleasure to wacth - they are so graceful despite their ernormous height!

We saw many giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, rhino, buffalo, waterbuck and impala plus the lone magnificent bull elephant. Our neighbours at Sun City saw a herd of elephants with many young so it's all about being in the right place at the right time. Often one minute later, the herd has vanished into dense bush and it is as if they were never there at all.

There is a fenced off picnic/braai area called "Fish Eagle" for those who wish to stretch their legs, enjoy a picnic or barbeque in tranquil surroundings with only bird calls to distrub the bush atmosphere. The restaurant was undergoing renovations at the time of our visit.

My fascination is with anaimal behaviour and animal eyes - the lashes of a giraffe are so long and beautiful, elephants have tiny eyes in relation to their bodies and rhino's even smaller, meaner looking eyes. A rhino charge will leave you battered and bruised and wishing you had been far away in the cosy comfort of your lounge. Unfortunately, these huge, great, lumbering beats are being poached to extinction in Africa and all for their tiny little horn. Watching aninmals inter-act can be a humbling experience even though it is the survival of the fittest. We humans sometimes are just beyond understanding in cruelty towards animals.

The liquid eyes of the impala are so expressive and they are always on the alert for the slightest hint of danger. With their large ears pricked up, they take off at the slightest hint of danger.

Watch the zebra resting his head on the zebra in front of him, watch the giraffe attempting a "kiss" Long necks entwined, they are enjoying a personal moment. See the little zebra with his gashed leg, trying to get more milk off his mother who is not budging despite his temper tantrum of shaking his head and stamping his hoofs. Watch the elephant uprooting a tree and enjoying the green branches with a look of bliss on his face!

It's all so fascinating and we enjoyed a wonderful day's outing in stunning surroundings with many game sightings to keep us alert and expectant. Don't be in a rush when game viewing- it's not just about the sighting, it's about being at one with nature in her own back yard.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - West Coast Magic

Magical little places, interesting and quirky people, artists, rich bird life, beach pubs. long white beaches and COLD water, make this an area worth exploring.

We decided on a week-end meander to familiar places that we love. The West Coast has stunning seaside villages, some with just the basics, where families come together at holiday times for their annual rest and recuperation from the strains of city life. There will always also be those pensioners, artists, people wanting a more rural life, who have given up their city homes in the city to move out here.

Jacobsbaai:
Jacobsbaai is a pretty village of white-washed houses, gravel roads and "Wille Magrietjie" where you will find a treasure trove of gifts. A tiny shop with a big heart - stand still and gaze - there are so many things to look at! Artistic talent at it's best.

This small village offers Fishing, Boating, Hiking, Surfing and there is an abundance of seafood!

The most recent happening was the running aground of the unmanned barge MARGARET which was loaded with a cargo of 13 river barge hulls built in China and destined for Rotterdam. It went aground on 24/06/2009 in heavy seas.The barge was being towed by the tug Salvaliant when the tow was lost.
This event brought many visitors to the town in 2009/2010 but today there is scant reminder of this event with only some metal protruding near the rocks. Sadly, a contractor, John Mitchell, who was involved in preparing the vessel for a series of controlled explosions designed to topple the cargo of river barges and floating docks into the sea, was killed in 2010 during this process and a memorial cross now stands on a rock near the site.

Velddrif/Laaiplek & Dwarskersbos:
Veldrif/Laaiplek and Dwarkersbos all seem to run into each other and who knows where the boundaries are! The Berg River runs into the sea here and there is an abundance of bird life up the river. A number of operators offer boat trips upriver to view these birds in their natural habitats. We were lucky to see many pelicans the day we visited - apparently, the residents have counted up to 200 at a time during certain times of the year.

Bokkom Lane is a must see street in Velddrif. It's a small road with many little fisheries, a restaurant called "Die Vishuis Restaurant", and a crazy shop called Ek & Djy. The owner is a local character of note and you can sit on his veranda, enjoy a beer or something light to eat, while listening to his stories! The shop faces the river so you can relax while you watch the boats going past, and, if you are lucky, watch the gliding pelicans with their graceful movements.

Next door to this is the River Studio where Marina Clune has restored a 100 year old "vishuis" (fish house) The old Cold store door is still in place where Marina stores the tools of her trade. This tiny studio has a happy atmosphere and the walls are adorned by Marina's take on West Coast life. Her paintings are well known and exhibited in a number of places. They moved to Velddrif about 10 years ago and they have not looked back since. A lovely lady who shared her story with us and is obviously very much into the beauty of life along this coast. With so many changing moods and colours along the Berg River and the long stretches of coastline close by, I am sure Marina will never be short of an inspiring moment to capture on canvas. Whilst she does other art, her main focus is on depicting life along the West Coast. (See Main Photo at top of article)
 “My life here embraces space, freedom and the simplicity yet vastness of nature. Old boats swaying against old jetties, never-ending beaches, a moody cloud-sky, characteristic West Coast buildings, the river and the wetlands have all inspired me.“

Enjoy the repartee between her husband (Ek & Djy next door!) Marina and the locals who pop in for a chat or beer. Whilst there are all sorts of goodies, don't forget to take home a bottle of Green Fig Preserve - simply divine as is or with cheese. Yummm - gotta go back just for that!

We headed for Dwarskersbos for a long walk along the beach. The fishermen were out in full force, hoping for their "catch of the day" It's a beautiful, long beach and when you are done, you can pop into the very rustic Soverby Lapa. They have a basic menu, live music week-ends and the outside area has a cooling mist spray to keep the heat at bay. But truly VERY rustic and only CASH! So we did not eat there as we only had enough cash for a beer. One has to wonder if SARS (South African Revenue Services) knows about them!! I am quite sure this is a very popular hang-out with the locals on a Saturday night.

West Coast National Park:
Enjoy Bird watching in Geelbek, Seeburg and Abrahamskraal bird hide. For the active there are mountain bike trails and a cycling route. A hike starts from Geelbek Visitor centre.

For day trippers there are picnic sites in Kraalbaai and Tsaarsbank.


The West Coast National Park can be enjoyed at any time of the year but it is best known for the wild flowers in August and September when the area called Postberg, is open to the public. Masses and masses of flowers create carpets of colourful and fascinating displays and people go there year after year. The displays are at their best if good rains have been received in the area. The flowers always open towards the sun so there is no point visiting on a cloudy day.

Geelbek Restaurant, within the park, offers delightful breakfasts, great lunches and teas. The Trio of Cape Malay Curry, "Dennevleis" Lamb and Bobotie with pumpkin fritters, veg and yellow rice was certainly very much enjoyed by myself! Especially the lamb  - I grew up on Karoo Lamb and don't eat lamb anymore as I got so tired of it - but this was so tasty and really fantastic. Let's hope they keep this trio on the menu! You can sit outdoors under a tent, on the grassed area, on the veranda or if the weather is foul, the seating inside is very cosy.

The walk to the bird hide is rich in textures and colours and there are many birds in the area. It depends on the tide in the lagoon as to how close they will be.





West Coast Coast Magic will capture your heart - slow down and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of this part of South Africa!

See Posts also on Paternoster and Cape Columbine - all part of the West Coast.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

Mauritius - Mixture of Cultures

The hot, moist, earthy smelling air hits you as soon as you leave the airport building after landing in Mauritius. It smells so exotic that we could not wait to sample new delights whilst exploring this island! We came to love this earthy smell, mixed with warm air as if we were in a hot-house.

We set off with our driver to our hotel. Passing by fields of sugar cane and many small houses in poor condition, some only half completed, we discovered that this is apparently a tax dodge. It does nothing to make the place look well-kept! Tiny shops line the road with living quarters above. Some of the shops are right on the road, with nowhere to hide if a bus gets in your way. Scooters and bicycles abound and drivers all appear very courteous. The dogs all look very thin and sickly which was rather disturbing.

With a sea temperature of between 22 - 27 degrees C, the beach was a first stop for a fantastic swim on calm, beautiful water.

Our first expedition, after a restful night, was to Pamplemousses Botanical Gardens, officially named after Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam. These gardens cover approx 37 ha and are truly beautiful. We were fascinated by the Talipot Palm which grows for 30 - 60 years before it bears it's flowers. Once it has flowered, it will die and will need to be cut down. Weird!  There are many other palm trees and the huge Amazon Lilies with their upturned edges are an amazing sight.The edges are thorny so that the fish won't nibble on them. Their flowers open for 2 days only, the first day they are cream and the second day they are pink. The Lotus flower was in another pond and this is a flower sacred to the Hindus. The tortoises are up to 250 years old - amazing that a tortoise lives for so long - perhaps there is a lesson in that - we all need to slow down somewhat!! Do take some mosquito repellent with you as the mosquitoes attacked us in their hundreds - whether this was because it suddenly rained I have no idea. A truly fascinating botanical garden.

A visit to the Le Cauden Waterfront in Port Louis will empty your purse but give you good mementos of Mauritius. This city is the capital of Mauritius and was first used as a port way back in 1638. The traffic congestion is a nightmare and it takes ages to get around the city. We did not visit the local market as there were hordes of people in the vicinity and after sitting in the traffic jam, we preferred to go to the Waterfront which was less busy. Do watch out for pick-pockets in any busy market. Port Louis has a large harbour and the city was built on reclaimed land.

Mauritians are very family focused and the various religions are also tolerant of each other so you will have Muslims living right next door to Hindu's or Christians with no animosity. Many of the locals are from French descent and the languages spoken are English, Creole and French. A fascinating blend!

The hotel where we stayed hosted many local families for the New Year Dinner/Dance so we were very lucky to be able to converse with locals and hear their stories and some of their history. The entertainment was good with an amazing Fire Dance where they all ended up jumping through burning hoops! Not for me, thanks.

The Sega dance came next and this was amazing. The dancers wear very brightly coloured costumes and the ladies skirts are wide and able to swirl and sway with the hip movements. This tradition was started by sad and homesick slaves in the 18th century as they drank "arrack" from sugar cane and sang and danced to their soulful songs. Today the tradition lives on although there are no longer slaves on this interesting island. The music comes from guitars, triangles and the ravanne. The dancers are extremely good and hauled us onto the floor to our huge dismay, as the hips just did not want to flow as sexily as theirs did! But we lived to tell the tale of how NOT to dance the Sega. Fabulous fireworks on the beach brought in the New Year and then we danced some more until the knees started protesting after all the exercise.

Taxi's are fairly cheap in Mauritius so we took one down to Ill de Cerfs. Our Muslim driver was a mine of information about local customs. Hindus are in the majority with Muslim, Catholics and Chinese all getting along together. It is apparently a sign of mistrust if you lock your door when going out for the day as the neighbours will always watch out for each other. On feast or holy  days they offer each other food as per their own customs and a tolerance exists that is to be envied.

The Hindus were taking food baskets to the temple for New Years day (food for the Gods) and we stopped to admire the beautiful Hindu Temple. Apparently, the caste system is disappearing from the local Hindus as they marry outside of their caste. Always beautifully dressed, the Hindus look gracious and proud. Each Hindu house has a shrine in the garden, some more ornate than others. There are also roadside shrines, with candles burning and food available. Hindu women all have dots on their foreheads. A red dot means that she is married whilst unmarried ladies may choose the colour of their dot to match the outfit of the day. More fun that I would say than a plain red dot for many, many years of married life. But less stress than keeping a myriad of colours ready to match your clothes, I suppose.

The clothing manufacturing industry, such as Ralph Lauren & Polo, the sugar cane industry and tourism are the main income producers for this small island. Many of the locals own their own small supermarket shops, others are taxi drivers or employed in the tourist industry. The French speaking Chinese appeared to be the wealthiest, judging by their cars! 

We took a boat across to Ile de Cerf and walked around the island, stopping every 10 minutes to have a swim. Although the water is so warm, it still cools you off for another 10 minutes or so. We found a gorgeous swimming spot just before the mangrove swamps. We had to turn back at this point and head back towards the lagoon. The water is so clear and shallow at this point that one can just wallow for ages. On the way back to the mainland it suddenly started raining so we got soaked to the skin - but warm rain! There were huge puddles of water on the roads so the driver had to be more cautious. We passed an amazing tree which had curved right across the road and then put down roots on the other side making an arch across the roadway. I loved the Flame trees with their bright red flowers. We were sorry to say good-bye to our driver who had kept us so well entertained during the drive. His recurring comment was about the "Political Mens" whom he feared would disturb the peace and bring about religious tension. We hope his fears turn out to be unfounded.

Our next exploration was to the Seven Earths. Model Ship building is renowned in Mauritius and James succumbed and bought the "Bounty"  The packing of this fragile ship was nothing short of miraculous and quite something to watch.

 We passed Phoenix, a pretty town with lots of trees and clean looking streets.

Floreal is a very posh area with ambassador's residences and houses for the rich. There are stunning views to be enjoyed from Troux aux Cerfs (Hole with Deer) crater across to the mountains. Curepipe is the 2nd largest town in Mauritius and has a population of approx 82,000. Located on the Central Plateau, the soil is fertile in this region. Mauritius produces most if it's own vegetables, fruit, tea, sugar and clothing. Most other commodities have to be imported.

Grand Bassin has been declared a holy lake by the Hindus and the lake is dotted with various temples. A strong smell of incense lingers in the air and one is allowed to visit some shrines - just remember that shoes and socks must be removed before entering.

Our next stop was the village of Chamarel where we enjoyed a great lunch in the company of a Zimbabwean honeymoon couple. We all set the world to rights over drinks and lunch but, sadly, Zimbabwe is still in turmoil despite our efforts! The Chamarel Falls are lovely. This area also has the only coffee plantation in Mauritius. The Seven Earths are an amazing sight - this is volcanic rock which has cooled are various temperatures and left different colours and hues in the rocks. Nothing will grow here as the mineral content is too high so one sees the bare rock in all it's glorious shapes, angles and colours.

Taxi or Bus to Grande Bay?
We decided to take a taxi but could not get our previous driver and this one sort of ripped us off as the ride was not very long. Grand Bay is a bustling tourist town with many shops catering for the tourists, a lovely big supermarket for those doing self-catering, loads of hotels right on the beach, watersports on offer, restaurants and a busy beach. After wandering round the stalls we decided to get back to our own beach for a leisurely swim. We took the bus back - a bone-shaking experience but it gave us a taste of "local" services! We used the bus a few times and some drivers were great, very friendly and helpful and others were diabolical and drove like maniacs! I suppose it takes all sorts.

Most of the public beaches are well frequented by local families. You will find granny playing Blind Man's Bluff or some game or other, the men are all huddled together playing their card games and the ladies organise the picnics and the caching up on family news. Very busy but also very peaceful. We did not spot any unruly behaviour despite the large crowds.

Another favourite pastime for the local men, besides their card games, is horse racing! Their famous race track is outside of Port Louis and will be 200 years old in 2012. Obviously a pleasurable pastime for many.

A large part of our time was taken up swimming, canoeing or paddle-boating. We also took a glass-bottomed boat and the coral was amazing. Depending on your taste for action, there are many water-sports available, yacht trips, dives etc. The hotels all have evening entertainment which can vary from entertaining to "what a bore" - it just depends! We ended up with a singer one night who absolutely KILLED all our favourite songs. He would not have made the first round of any talent show! Hopefully, he has changed careers by now. Rain during the evening does not deter anybody - it pours for 10 - 15 mins, the dance floor is like a shallow pool, the staff all come along with brooms as soon as the rain stops, and hey presto, the floor is swept dry and the dancing continues! Amazing stuff.

There are many beaches that can be visited - we did explore quite a few. The water is so divine I could have slept in it! You have guessed - I do like warm water!

We loved our time in Mauritius, meeting the locals, doing some sight-seeing and just enjoying the sea (take plastic sandals for swimming in some parts)
We also enjoyed the birds visiting our balcony while we enjoyed our sundowners and spotted Red Whiskered Bulbul, little Sparrows, Myna bird (more cautious) and the cheekiest of them all, the Madagascan Fody - a beautiful red bird who was always on the look-out for food.

Whilst the Seychelles may be more glamorous and much more expensive, our experience of this small island was truly wonderful. A chap sitting on the plane behind us, on our way home, was totally sold on his annual holiday to Mauritius!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, West Coast

Cape Columbine Nature Reserve - Beach Camping!

The West Coast of South Africa is full of unusual surprises - where time sometimes seems to stand still and the lure of yesteryear beckons. Tietiesbaai, situated within the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, just past Paternoster, is one such place. Cape Columbine was declared a Nature Reserve in 1973 and covers approx 263ha along this stretch of coast.

The last manually controlled lighthouse is within this reserve and it was built in 1936. Today it is surrounded by houses available for those week-enders who prefer the modern comforts! The lighthouse beam is visible for about 50 km.

The purists will love the camping at Tietiesbaai - any closer to the sea and you will get wet! The camp sites are spread out around the bay (above) and are truly in a "back to nature" spot. With no electricity and very basic ablutions, it remains extremely popular. Day Visitors are allowed into the Reserve and there is an entrance fee.

There are amazing rock formations in this area which just beg to be scrambled, great fishing spots, time to catch your own West Coast Lobster, or harvest fresh mussels off the rocks, sun-tanning or just sitting round the fire chatting to friends or family. It's a relaxing spot where time can stand still. There are also hiking trails within this region for those in need of more exercise!

Dolphins and whales can be seen along the coast at various times of the year and wild flowers are out during July - August.

Within the reserve there is also accommodation for those who don't have their own camping gear. It's called "The Beach Camp" and woe betide those who enter without a booking or out of plain curiosity! We did not dare to put it to the test given the stern warning at the entrance! Accommodation is in A-Frame huts or tents and it would be best to check out their rules before booking.

The "Seekombuis" is situated near the entrance gate to the reserve and is the brainchild of the owners who have done all the building work and design themselves with the assistance of 2 labourers. Very rustic and innovative - do pop in for a drink or pre-book a meal. They were very welcoming and showed us around with smiles! Not like "The Beach Camp" were one does not dare even enter!

One idea that we thought was very innovative is their use of old rowing boats as restaurant tables - what could be better than sitting in an old boat, enjoying the sea breezes and some cold beer? They will have umbrellas up on hot days! The shell work adorning the area has been painstakingly done and truly reflects the spirit of the sea and beach. There are numerous other tables scattered around, all with views of the sea. So it is fittingly called the Seekombuis = The Sea Kitchen. With a lovely beach just below for the kids to work off their energy, moms and dads can enjoy a leisurely break. 

Cape Columbine Lighthouse in the far distance (Above)

The roads within the reserve are untarred but can be managed by a normal car, albeit sometimes a rather bumpy ride!

 Enjoy!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

Going Green.......and our Carbon Footprint

Carbon Footprint? Those words would most probably have meant very dirty feet from playing outdoors if used 20 - 30 years ago! 

Going Green? This would most probably have meant - get out of the way quick, he is going to be sick!

Today it is a buzz word that has everybody talking as we try to reduce our carbon footprint on the world. We all love our modern gadgets, we love travelling the globe and one has to wonder what the buzz words will be in 30 - 40 years time?

Will we have saved our planet? Or will somebody be saying:
"In my day, we had gardens with beautiful flowers, I just hate all this desert sand under my feet now"

The words below came to me on e-mail and with all our efforts today to "Save our Planet", seminars on "Going Green", entire web sites devoted to "Going Green" and our "Carbon Footprint" - I just have to share this with you. 

"Checking out at the store, the young cashier suggested to the older woman that she should bring her own grocery bags because plastic bags weren't good for the environment.

The woman apologized and explained, "We didn't have this green thing back in my earlier days."

The clerk responded, "That's our problem today. Your generation did not care enough to save our environment for future generations."

She was right -- our generation didn't have the green thing in its day or didn't call it "green."

Back then, we returned milk bottles, soda bottles and beer bottles to the store. The store sent them back to the plant to be washed and sterilized and refilled, so it could use the same bottles over and over. So they really were recycled. But we didn't have the green thing back in our day.

We walked up stairs, because we didn't have an escalator in every store and office building. We walked to the grocery store and didn't climb into a 300-horsepower machine every time we had to go two blocks. But she was right. We didn't have the green thing in our day.

Back then, we washed the baby's diapers because we didn't have the throw-away kind. We dried clothes on a line, not in an energy gobbling machine burning up 220 volts -- wind and solar power really did dry our clothes back in our early days. Kids got hand-me-down clothes from their brothers or sisters, not always brand-new clothing. But that young lady is right. We didn't have the green thing back in our day.

Back then, we had one TV, or radio, in the house -- not a TV in every room. And the TV had a small screen the size of a handkerchief (remember them?), not a screen the size of the state of Montana . In the kitchen, we blended and stirred by hand because we didn't have electric machines to do everything for us. When we packaged a fragile item to send in the mail, we used wadded up old newspapers to cushion it, not Styrofoam or plastic bubble wrap Back then, we didn't fire up an engine and burn gasoline just to cut the lawn. We used a push mower that ran on human power. We exercised by working so we didn't need to go to a health club to run on treadmills that operate on electricity. But she's right. We didn't have the green thing back then.

We drank from a fountain when we were thirsty instead of using a cup or a plastic bottle every time we had a drink of water. We refilled writing pens with ink instead of buying a new pen, and we replaced the razor blades in a razor instead of throwing away the whole razor just because the blade got dull. But we didn't have the green thing back then.

Back then, people took the streetcar or a bus, and kids rode their bikes to school or walked instead of turning their moms into a 24-hour taxi service. We had one electrical outlet in a room, not an entire bank of sockets to power a dozen appliances. And we didn't need a computerized gadget to receive a signal beamed from satellites 2,000 miles out in space in order to find the nearest pizza joint."

Author Unknown

Makes one think?

So let's all try and do some small thing to save our planet for future generations.

Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

 

South Africa - Paternoster, West Coast

Paternoster
WEST COAST SOUTH AFRICA

Seagull - Paternoster

Quaint Fishing Village

We all look for those special places where it seems that time stands still. Those wonderful old shops where just about everything is sold with the smell of freshly baked bread assailing the nostrils as one enters. Live crayfish available from the fishermen as they bring in their boats ... Paternoster, on the West Coast of South Africa is such a place. This is one of the oldest fishing villages on the West Coast and remains unspoilt still. The "Winkel op Paternoster" is housed in a building which was originally a whaling station. Although the village has changed from the very tiny fishing village of yesteryear, the charm remains due to strict building regulations and gorgeous white-washed cottages with blue trim. Some are more ornate than others but all blend into something that pleases the eye no matter where in the village you wander.

Die Winkel op Paternoster

The beach is long and wide and just begs to be  walked - it goes on for miles and miles if you have the stamina and a few water bottles. At low tide, the beach is a pleasure for walking - firm sand and those far-away vistas. The water is cold but after walking for miles, a quick dip in the sea is ideal to cool off those heels!

Wide Beach - Paternoster

Fishermen still ply their trade from these shores and it is always great fun to watch the boats coming in. Many of these guys are so totally plastered (drunk)by the time they stand alongside the road selling their wares that one has to wonder how much of their "catch" goes straight into the local bottle store coffers and how much goes home to feed their families.  The crayfish season lasts during the summer months, November to April (the exact period is regulated) so fresh crayfish is a "must buy" in the village if you are staying for a few days and have your own self-catering apartment. Or try one of the restaurants in the village.Should you wish to dive yourself, a permit is required.

Seagulls waiting for scraps - Paternoster

The local hotel building was built in 1863 and changed to an hotel in 1940. An institution in Paternoster, this hotel is always well patronised. Do pop into the "Panty" bar to see the collection of panties and bras which adorn the place! The original collection had to be taken down after a Minister called in for "tea" and reported the collection as "unholy" The latest collection stems from the 90's and hangs from every part of the ceiling. One has to wonder how many drinks are required before stripping and handing over bras and panties!! Those walls must hold many hilarious tales.

Do take time to wander into the few small shops - their stock is interesting!!

Paternoster se Padstal

There are a number of restaurants in the village - we ate at Skatkis in Paternoster Lodge where I enjoyed Sole Capricio - with balsamic cherry tomatoes and roasted almonds. Really tasty and an interesting variation on plain grilled sole.

Seaside Homes - Paternoster

A walk around the village may tempt you into thinking of buying a holiday home but it's far easier to rent one of the many Self-Catering cottages available. There are also numerous B&B's if that option sounds preferable. With a variety of restaurants to choose from, you won't go hungry.
This village has it all - tranquil yet vibey, back to nature, yet with all mod cons, gorgeous beach with the added attraction of fishing boat activity, seagulls to wake you up, lapping waves to lull you to sleep.

What more could one ask for?

Paternoster Beach

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com