India - Mumbai (6)



Churchgate Station, Mumbai, India

We arose rather late this morning - all the walking and noise is exhausting!

Breakfast at the President Taj was busy this morning. Service is always friendly although sometimes rather hit and miss as the staff seem to be all over the place instead of concentrating on a few tables. The spicy tea (don't ask me for the Indian name) gets the taste buds going and then we can enjoy our eggs and normal tea/coffee.

A IR 50 taxi ride, with us holding on for dear life, got us to Churchgate station in time to watch the  dabbawallahs come off the trains, cross the road and start sorting out their food bags for delivery to offices across  the city. How on earth they know what goes where is beyond my little brain but it is all precision packed either onto bicycle handle-bars or those famous Indian wooden carts. The carts take loads of meals and are pulled by hand. Luckily, all the bags are closed as we saw one of these guys picking his nose and then proceeding to go off on his deliveries for the day.

Hygiene does not seem to be a big thing in India, given  the fact that so many tourists fall ill.

Started a century ago with home-cooked meals. this tradition lives on in the modern Mumbai. 5000 of these man deliver approx. 200,000 lunch boxes from homes to respective offices every day. Making virtually no mistakes (1 in every 16 million delivers)  these men earn between 2000 - 4000 IR per month. The system was started by the British who preferred their home-cooked meals, made by their staff, to be delivered to their workplace. The fact that this system still runs like clockwork and is favoured by many so many years later, is incredible, given the age of modern technology. This defies modern systems and shows that old traditions can survive, despite everything. The boxes are colour coded which tells where the food comes from, which station it will be delivered to and the address where it has to be delivered. The dabbawallahs deliver in all weathers, never go on strike and now even have their own website or you can order via sms. Modern and ancient mixed together in an incredible way.

Apparently, business schools ask these dubbawallahs to lecture on their systems and they have been used to promote their new products. Prince Charles met them in 2003 and Richard Branson has also spent time with them. It's totally mind-boggling that such a simple system, yet with so many logistical problems such as train travel, can be delivered on time each and every day. Dubbawallahs need to be well-disciplined as there reputation is of paramount importance.

Hats off to these people in carrying on with a tradition which started in the 1890's. It's mind-boggling to me, yet it runs like clock-work.
Sometimes, people from other countries need to sit up and take note of systems that work, of people that have pride in their jobs, no matter that they are not the most well-paid in society. Coming from South Africa, where many people have no pride in their work and yet expect huge pay increases  every year, despite the poor economic climate, makes one see India in a very positive light. The Indian papers are also quick to report rapes or crimes - they are not hidden away or swept under the carpet.

Once all the dubbawallahs had left, we saw from the map that Churchgate  Station is not too far from Marine Drive, so off we set on foot. This time we walked North to the end of the pier which is right opposite the Fisherman's Village (near our hotel). With humidity of around 88% today, it is very hot unless walking in the shade. Once again, we are surrounded by only Indians - the Westerners can be counted on 10 fingers so perhaps they are more into the fancy shopping centres than the down-to-earth Mumbai with it's thousands of taxi's, honking horns, normal people going about their daily lives, collecting their kids from school and catching buses and trains to wherever they need to go.

We have not been brave enough to catch either a bus or a train but we have walked most of Colaba -  my feet and legs tell me so. 

Most of Mumbai is fairly clean - the streets are tidy and neat except in the areas where the squatters (fisher folk) live. Even there, the rubbish seems confined to patches near the rubbish skips and on the beach where they have their boats.

Crossing the roads in Mumbai is a rather death-defying experience as nobody stops at a pedestrian crossing and one wonders why they even bother to paint them? Most are very faded and worn from all those feet stumbling across! I nearly got squashed by a taxi today and I was not amused - silly people - surely a second will not make that much difference in their lives? But no - they blow their horns and just keep going hell for leather. It's daft, it's crazy, it's Indian and it's Mumbai. Love it or leave it! Some of the locals just walk - I suppose they know the taxi will stop at the last minute or face homicide charges, but we are not willing to take that chance. Scaredy cats? YEP!

We have not seen many stray cats or dogs - those near the shack dwellers are all rather thin and don't look too healthy. The well-looked after dogs are being  walked on leads by their well-dressed owners. Those look in tip-top shape.

We reached our hotel totally drenched in perspiration and me looking like a beetroot with my hair all over the place and the shorts sticking to my limbs. A cold shower has somewhat revived me but my core temperature still feels overheated!

At least we can say that we have walked this small area of Colaba (in relation to the entire city!) It is so very different to anything that we are used to in Cape Town or have ever experienced anywhere else in the world. Over-stimulation of the senses, especially the ears!

Feeling peckish, we decided to try a Pizza place in Nariman Point. Well....nobody wanted to take us there - obviously too close and they wanted a min of IR 80 to virtually go round the corner. So...too far to walk and having tried at least 5 taxi's, we decided that they were all a rip-off so we stayed at the hotel and ate their pizza instead! Boring?? Yep but what can one do. The taxi's do seem to rip off foreign tourists, as I suppose they do all over the world.

Complimentary fresh fruit from the hotel and a cuppa of my own Five Roses tea will do me fine together with some R&R time on the Kindle.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Mumbai (5)

Now we head for the Prince of Wales Museum to "try" and soak up some culture.
Yeh right - it is difficult but nothing ventured, nothing gained. The taxi fare of 100 Rupees (most probably a rip-off!) got us to the door of the museum just as the rain came down.



We waited under shelter, like idiots, as nobody told us that there were umbrellas to use to reach the entrance.

The museum has 3 floors of art collections such as Nepal-Tibet, Krishna, Chinese and Japanese, European paintings, sculpture, weapons, coins etc.

The foundation stone was laid by Prince of Wales (later KIng George V) in 1905 and is a heritage building and landmark of South Mumbai.The museum opened to the public on Jan 10, 1922 wit various collections plus the Sir Ratan Tata bequest. The Tata family are well-known and very wealthy - Tata vehicles are even available in South Africa.

The Natural History section is superb, spoilt only by a group of Primary (Called High School) kids who were sooooo noisy we could not even hear our audio head phones. They were all very smartly dressed in uniform, with name tags and photos, all wearing sandals but, oh my goodness, what alot of chatter at the top of their voices. The teacher telling them to be quiet had absolutely NO effect! Even the museum chap tried to move them along....he did not succeed. Rather a pity that such smartly dressed kids from obviously wealthy backgrounds can be so disobedient when all the signs say "Silence Please" We had to wait for them to leave to enjoy the exhibits.

Have you ever seen a "saw" fish? It's the most amazing looking sea creature with a huge saw in front of it's body. Don't think I would like to encounter one of those in the ocean! Forget the magician trick of sawing somebody in half, this would be the real deal!

Indian 1 Horn Rhino's also faced near extinction until measures were taken to increase the population. The conservation program in India and in South Africa (White Rhino) are mentioned here for their efforts in saving these magnificent animals.

We found the history of Karl Khandalavala most interesting. A lawyer by profession, he became an Indian Art Collector and had close links with the Prince of wales Museum. He was asked to source art for the museum and then stopped collection for his own use. He was also a great photographer and one numerous awards. His collection is now in the gallery where he spent many a Saturday afternoon, such was his love of the arts.

A video in the Prechand Roychand gallery was totally fascinating as it showed the history of the art of painting for mobile temples. This huge painting is taken from village to village. Today this art form includes words and more colours than the originals - however, it needs to be preserved for future generations.

We decided to walk back so that we could get some exercise and experience the noise of Mumbai again!!!!! The noise is so invasive that I can't even concentrate on taking interesting photos of people, cars, shops etc that we pass. It's all encompassing noise that assaults the senses to such a degree that one walks like a zombie! There is nothing like this anywhere in Europe, USA, SA and certainly not in New Zealand (peace and quiet!!) or law-abiding Australia. There are no rules of the road and most roads are packed, with truly only about a centimetre of space between cars or bodies. How there are not more accidents, I have no clue. Apparently, in the monsoon season there are many accidents - thankfully, for my sanity, the rain is no longer too much. Whew!

We had hoped hoped to see the Kala Ghoda Pavement Art which is on either side of the Jehangir Art Gallery but this is closed until October ( after the Monsoon Season) I suppose no self-respecting artist would want his/her work ruined by the rain?

As we did not find the Colaba Causeway on our Saturday outing, we decided to walk back to via this route. These stalls of full of cheap trinkets and clothing and quite claustrophobic. We did buy an elephant for 300 rupees for my elephant collection at home. Gorgeous and ornate, he will rule the other elephants when he gets back to South Africa! The beggars all seem to be women with children, sitting on the pavement. I was eventually tempted to use rather strong African swear words - just the fact that they did not understand these, seemed to have an effect! I won't repeat them here!

Although the Internet reckons that the area around the President Hotel is not so safe we have found all the areas so far to be hassle free. Wherever we have walked there has been no problem even though we stand out like sore thumbs - white faces and with a Nikon camera slung around my neck! Many of the buildings look like total slums, yet they are not. It's a crazy place, a noisy place and the Indians themselves are all over, shopping, eating, buying and driving.

We spotted a Driving School called "Good Luck" - yep, I think the bumps and scratches on the car are testimony to the crazy driving in Mumbai and India. Quite frankly, I would think that no license is required - nothing could equip one for driving in this country - hence the fact that foreigners are not allowed to hire a car without a driver. Driving in India, without being born in this country, would be the fastest way to voluntary suicide.

Indians, please come to South Arica - you will LOVE the way we drive - we don't hoot very often, we tend to obey most of the rules of the road and we can be very polite!!! Capetonians, your driving is SUPERB - I love you all!!!!!

Our laundry arrived, delivered in a briefcase and with cardboard in the t-shirts. Service!!!!! Singita Lebombo, a fantastic hotel in the Kruger Park of South Africa,  can learn a few tricks from the Taj Group! Joking - Singita is very special and our memories there will never fade.

For our evening meal, we decided to catch a taxi to Leopolds - famous in Mumbai. This is right in the Colaba Causeway area and was packed with locals and a few Westerners. The menu is under the glass on the table so sometimes you have to read upside down. The noise is incredible as the buzz of conversation competes with the honking horns in the road outside. If you are in the mood for a romantic dinner, this is not the place to be. If you want tasty food at a reasonable price, then it IS the place to be. Our waiter was very helpful and I decided on a vegetable curry called Makhanwala  while James chose Butter Chicken. Served with some Naan Bread, it was delicious. Leopolds also serves huge "tower of beer" at 1400 IR - needless to say, we stuck to a glass each at 180 IR! No need to fall over in Mumbai! The cakes and desserts are scrumptious - the Chocolate Ecstasy was just that - so rich that I could barely finish it, despite James stealing a few mouthfuls.

There were plenty of taxi's outside so we opted for one that said 80 IR (the fare we paid to get to the restaurant)
At our destination, James handed over a 100 note and was told "no change" So he counted out his smaller notes and made 60 which he then offered the driver. Suddenly, change of 20 miraculously appeared! We were not impressed by this tactic - however, only fair to say that this has happened to us whilst taking a taxi to Cape Town airport so it is obviously a ploy used by taxi drivers world-wide. Why they would want to annoy their fares to such an extent, is beyond me. Mind you, in Mumbai you never get the same driver - this last one was extremely surly and spoils the good experience that we have enjoyed from others in this city.

The streets at night are even more crazy it seems than during the day with far more people walking, riding and just being out and about. We even saw a gent sitting on the pavement having his ears cleaned by another. How gross is that? Funnily enough, I have only seen one taxi driver open
his door and spit! Even more gross!

On that note, back to our cool, clean hotel room......to read the latest in the Indian Newspapers:

The Mumbai Mirror, the Bombay Times and the Times of India are delivered to our room daily. They make interesting reading and show us that problems are really world-wide and so is good news.

Some snippets:
Armed with lathi, constable beats back 10 train robbers
In a first, chemist is booked for not having pharmacist!
Ragpicker stumbles upon woman's partial remains near sea link
Free Seminars across the city to help students study in USA
Rehearsing teens spark real dram on Marine Drive ( this happened across from the Inter-Continental Hotel where the Pakistan Judicial Commission is staying!!)
Study: Drug-resistant TB in city air, families clear yet kids affected.
Irrespective of faith, 12 year old cannot be wife.
Grad steals mobile, blackmails owner - love this one - in SA they just re-sell them at bargain prices!
Wheelchair bound Deepa Malik (43) will cover 2000 km across 6 states in 10 days in a car designed by students from Sathyabama University, Chennai
If you fail to plan, you are planning to fail. "Keep it simple, stupid" Kiss Principle

Ad - 2 months later, 7 kilos lighter and a plan that finally worked. SMS Slim to .......!
Ad - Get going in your own Innova for a perfect holiday (Toyota)
Ad - 30,000 cars sold, 30,000 lived changed - Honda

You have guessed - it is raining today so more time to read these fascinating glimpses into Indian life in Mumbai.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Mumbai (4)



Mumbai from Marine Drive

05.30 and disaster.....we have all heard of the song "Beds are Burning" Well, my b.. was burning! Obviously, the tummy did not enjoy the delicious Thai flavours quite as much as my palate did!! So a very basic breakfast for me at 09.30 in the hopes that the unruly tum would settle down as we hope to explore at least one market today.....

Meanwhile, reading the "Times of India" is a worthwhile way to pass the time.

Forget about Car Pools - a Mumbai resident has a Helicopter Pool. After 12 years of leaving home at 06.00 and only getting back by 23.00 at night, he discovered that he could get enough folk together to share a chopper. Innovative thinking from a 45 yr old Chemical Engineer. Needless to say, he owns the factory but still - imagine having work hours that long? Not for me thanks!

As my tummy problem was more a reaction to all those delectable Thai spices, I swallowed an Imodium and off we set for our next adventure. The hotel cab dropped us off at the Crawford Market. Taking our lives in our hands, we crossed the street and entered the market to be accosted by a "guide" who showed us his official badge and told us that he had to escort us around the market! He stated that his services were free so we obediently followed.

The Crawford Market was built in the days of the British Raj. Named after Arthur Crawford, this market is still a very much part of South Mumbai life and teems with local people. The fresh fruit and veg all look very tempting and there were many types of fruits that we did not recognise. The stalls sell anything from chocolates, biscuits, plastic ware, toiletries, and a stunning array of spices from the Spice King - just about anything and everything one could wish for.
spicekingmumbai@yahoo.com

Pay them a visit - it will be worth your while!

There is also a meat market which we did not visit and then the pet market which is rather depressing - hundreds of birds in cages, geese, canaries, love birds, small puppies, wagging their tails in the hope of finding a good home, beautiful kittens, quail (for the pot, I assume!) fish in tanks etc.

It's a kaleidoscope of colour, an overload of people and no Westerners except us and a Dutch couple travelling the world (Europe, India, China and whatever else takes their fancy) Young and free, they did not have a guide! We were then told to cross the road - death staring us in the face! There are so many stalls in this area, that it is hard to take it all in. Artificial flowers are absolutely stunning but would get crushed in a suitcase. How everybody makes a living is beyond me but I suppose they all do. There were people sewing suitcases, making juice from something that looked like sugar cane or bamboo,  men staring, others smiling, most thinking we are crazy tourists!! Which we are!

After walking for ages through all this chaos, we decided to take a taxi to Marine Drive to breathe some sea air and relative quiet! If you have never driven in a local cab in this mayhem, you are totally missing the point of Mumbai. It is TOTAL MAYHEM and far worse than anything you could ever see on TV. Hooting is the name of the game, anything and everything goes from guys with baskets on their heads (local Courier service!!) to animals pulling goods, to parents with 3 kids on a scooter, to people walking in amongst this mess, to guys with loaded wagons and many, many taxis! 50 thousand of them apparently, all living by their horns!!! Hang on as you progress slowly, then have a burst of speed, only to brake and nearly go thru the windscreen! It has to be seen to be believed, the noise is incredible and just does not stop. In fact, I think I have to say that it is worse than Manhattan, New York. In the traffic jams, anything and everything goes - no rules apply - it is each man for himself!

With a sigh of relief, we reached Marine Drive and some cooling sea breezes. This is a very long drive so we could only walk part of it. There were many students also catching the sea breeze and perhaps a little cuddling away from parents eyes!

Even though the traffic was free flowing along this area, the hooting continues - just for the hell of it! Perhaps the Indians are not all born with a silver spoon, so they have a hand that simply loves the horn and it's blaring sound! The drive is 4.3 km long, with C  shaped 6 lane concrete lanes along the natural bay. The road links Nariman Point to Babulnath and Malabar Hill. The sea breeze was most welcome and the litter was not TOO much! In fact, we did see somebody picking up litter hence the fact that this area is not so dirty. Malabar Hill has the most expensive real estate in Mumbai it seems with a recent sale at Darshan Apartments reaching a new high. This apartment has 3 floors, 4 bedrooms, attached terraces, a covered garage of 700 sq feet and the unit is 3510 sq ft. The price of 57 crore is huge (1 crore = 10 million rupees)

We walked as far as Chowpatty Beach. This beach is huge and I would not like to be there when it gets packed with people. Seething masses are not my favourite! Besides Juhu beach, Chowpatty is Mumbai's most famous beach and comes alive at night when family's descend on this area. During the day it was not so busy although there were a number of kids having a swim. The fishermen were hauling a boat up the beach with military precision and it seems as if they live in shacks on the beach. After a very long walk, we caught a cab back to Cuffs Parade for 100 Rupees. Most probably a rip-off as the distance was not great.

We are total plebs, so we wandered down the road again to find some more Kingfishers - 100 Rupees each for 650 ml against 225 Rupees for 200 ml in the bar fridge in our room. As we have to go thru security every time we enter the building, they must think we are really not 5 star quality guests!!!!! Love the comfort, don't like the prices!!

We also wanted to see Fashion Street today as we passed this yesterday - however, it seems the stalls are closed on Mondays so too bad!

A great day out and a true Mumbai local experience. Mixing with the locals in areas where there are truly no Westerners, has been incredible and awesome experience.

The legs are tired, the body needs a shower but what a great day out!

Tonight we decided on "safe" food - chicken and veg with choc mud pie desserts. Boring, but hopefully my silly tum-tum will behave. Mind you, we are drinking buffalo milk with our tea - 50,000 buffaloes supply approx. 750,000 litres of fresh milk daily to Mumbai. Housed in Buffalo Tabelas (cowsheds) the smell is apparently over-powering and there are moves afoot to re-locate these.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Please share - if you did not enjoy this post .....Shhh - but please still share!

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India - Mumbai (3)



Mumbai from Marine Drive

Humidity 83% at 28 degrees - welcome to the day!

We made breakfast on time today!! The service from the Indian male staff  opted  at  Taj President is superb - lovely fresh croissants, divine spicy tea served in a tiny glass, eggs or Indian food to order, fresh fruit, fresh juices (watermelon, carrot or pineapple) various breads toasted, plus much more. We could not sample everything - too much!

After our long and very hot walk yesterday, we opted for a half day City Tour. Air conditioned comfort and a very informative driver. With a population of 19 million in Mumbai ( yep, you read the figure correctly, 19 million!!!) it is a crowded city. Those in the higher income bracket have at least one car per person in the family with maybe a spare. So a 5 person family would most likely have 6 cars. Those not so rich use either public transport or have motor cycles. The really poor  just walk. The family who own the Reliance company (oil and Sim Cards) have 5 family members with staff of 130. Their home is very high so one imagines that there is cleaning and more cleaning to be done! Can't say that I would like to be surrounded by so many staff? They would be under your feet at every turn!

Mumbai is a mixture of old and new - some stunning, modern high rises which nestle alongside some really grotty buildings. It's an amazing mix and adds to the flavour of the city. The Rajabhai Clock Tower has an interesting history - built by Premchand Roychand who founded the Mumbai Stock Exchange, he named this clock tower after his mother who was blind. As a member of the Jain religion, she had to eat before evening, so the chiming of the clock tower was her guide. During the British Raj, the clock chimed Rule Brittania, God Save the King, Home Sweet Home and a Handel Symphony out of a total of 16 tunes which changed 4 times a day. Now it only plays one tune every 15 minutes. This clock tower is within the are of the University of Mumbai - gorgeous buildings inspired by Venetian Gothic influences, it was built in 1857 and is one of the first 3 universities in India.

Jain Temples are very ornate and the one we visited in Mumbai had two massive elephant statues in front of the temple. One has to take off shoes to enter the building and there are rules for tourists such as:
Women may not enter if they have their "monthlies"
Do not turn your back to the idols
Walk gently so as not to disturb the devotees
Surrender your drinking water.

It is a holy place with many devout people praying so silence is the norm.
There are many religions in India - Hindu is the majority, then Muslim and the rest follow - Buddhism, Christian, Catholic, Jain (in no particular order)
All appear to get on well together which is as it should be in the world.

The Haji Ali Mosque is located in the sea on a small island - a  long walk takes one to the mosque  and this is only accessible at low tide. The queue stretched for ages so we did not attempt this. Constructed in 1431 in memory of a very wealthy merchant who gave up all his worldly possessions before taking a pilgrimage to Mecca it remains a very important mosque and a popular tourist attraction.

Marine Drive gives a view of the Arabian sea and this is a popular area for walking. Unfortunately, on the tour there is not much time to get out and wander.

The Hanging Gardens were created in 1880 and renovated in 1921 - with hedges in the shapes of animals and an "Old Women's Shoe" for the kids to climb, (we saw many adults too!) is a good place to chill out, walk or jog. This area is known as Malabar Hill, which is apparently very expensive. It certainly does not look expensive except for the Governor's House tucked away in a prime position. Certainly not Clifton, Cape Town.

Parking at any of these spots is a nightmare and the cops apparently issue "illegal" fines to tour guides or hotel drivers. Corrupt officials everywhere?

Talking with a cell phone is also prohibited and there are cops all over, watching for drivers chatting. The motor bike folk tuck their cell phones into their helmets so as to escape detection! Good  move and rather inventive, I would say!

Apparently, there are many wealthy folk in Mumbai which is the financial centre of India - however, to earn all these Indian Rupees they have to work 12 hours per day. Take in approx. 2 hours of travelling to work and back again, they are away from home for 14 hours - that leaves just 10 hours for dinner, family time and sleep! It seems 12 hour shifts are the norm as our tour guide from the hotel works 7 - 7!

Dialect changes happen every 100 km or so with various food styles as well. However, there are numerous English Newspapers so many Indians speak English. The offices of the "Times of India" are huge, set in an impressive building opposite the Victoria Terminus. This station is a world heritage site and was fairly quiet on Sunday. We believe it heaves with people during the week! We started taking photos and were then stopped by somebody asking if we "had permission" As we did not know what this entailed, we shook our heads and wandered back out again. The Sea Cadets, all smartly dressed, wanted their photo's taken and kept pushing each other to get closer! With wide smiles, we did manage to grab a quick shot!

The Dhobi Ghat is a very famous and amazing open air laundry. With laundry hanging all over the place, it's an incredible sight. The men wash the laundry from local hotels and hospitals and all is done by hand. Only men work here and this tradition has been going on for many, many years. Bashing the laundry would certainly get rid if anybody's aggression, I would say!  Families also live in "shacks" around the laundry. A buzzing place 7 days a week and a tradition that has survived modern times and washing machines. Sometimes, change is not always for the better - old methods work just as well.

Our driver has 3 children, 20, 17 and 5! All born at at a Government Hospital where they are only charged 10 Rupees. There are also private hospitals that charge much more. Mumbai is an incredible city with so many different facets that it is difficult to take it all in - the rich, the middle class and the very, very poor living in total squalor, far worse than anything in South Africa? Yet they still smile! And seem to survive? Although......

Rape, dengue fever in Bandra, match fixing all make the Sunday papers. However, the newspapers here are not all doom and gloom and make rather interesting reading. Cricket is, of course, a huge topic in India and the Oval in Mumbai is most popular with a number of matches underway when we passed by. Hockey comes a poor second as EVERYBODY loves cricket. You will make a friend for life if you are able to talk about Indian cricket.

We walked down past this 5 star hotel and within a short distance came across a huge local village of shops, friendly people and children all wanting a photo. We cannot get over the squalor that some Indians live in and yet they are all friendly, smiling and allow us to photograph their surroundings and way of life. It's humbling to say the least.

The Fishing Village is also not far from the hotel so we walked back there this afternoon. The fishermen were all tying up their nets - a laborious task, it seems. The floats are neatly bagged for use again tomorrow. The tide was out so we could see the "beach" - a conglomerate of litter as far as the eye could see. The boats are all very colourful with brightly coloured flags flapping in the slight breeze. The children are so amazingly friendly, given that we always seem to be the only Westerners walking!!!! Photo please, they ask politely! We have not yet met an angry Indian and hopefully, this does not ever happen.

Some guys do stare at us as if we are aliens - it seems that Westerners don't wander around like we do?

So far we have seen very few dogs, a few scrawny hens, cows of the pavement with an Indian lady guarding the cow from silly tourists who want to take photo's. It OK if you purchase some grasses to feed the cow, then photos are permitted! We did not realise this at first until our tour guide explained what the lady was "selling"

All in all, a day of many surprises and a brief glimpse into the Indian culture. Whist the caste system is obviously still very much in place, people remain happy. Perhaps they are born with beautiful, smiling faces - one hopes so. I could not bear the thought of living in such squalor, surrounded by filth, the smell of fish and having to call such a tiny hovel my home......Those of the more privileged, have a far easier life with their servants and cars.

Tonight we decided to give the Thai Restaurant in Taj President Hotel a try. WOW!! What an explosion of tastes in everything that was served from the chicken dishes to the potato mix to the very decadent desserts. The hotel staff reckon that this is the best Thai Restaurant in Mumbai. Now we cannot comment on this, but it certainly puts our Cape Town "Wang Thai" Restaurant to shame. Totally delicious flavours explode in the mouth and leave the most incredible tastes. All I can say again is "WOW" Whilst the service in all the hotel restaurants have been superb, the Thai one wins our vote, hands down - no competition! We will return to sample more of their delights!

My Kindle better have a really good novel to take my mind off this meal............goodnight!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Please share - if you did not enjoy this post .....Shhh - but please still share!

Thanks!

India - Mumbai (1/2)

After months of planning, our India holiday has at long last arrived. Up at the crack of dawn (for me anyway!)  the taxi collected us a a cold and wet morning. With heavy storms and snow expected in the Western Cape, we were rather  glad to be leaving the drab, soulless day behind. There was not much time in Johannesburg before the international leg of the journey to Mumbai. However, boarding was delayed (no explanation) so we waited and waited. After standing in a long line for over 30 mins, boarding commenced. The flight was good with only minor turbulence. The downside was a very loud child of about 3years who did not stop shouting the entire flight. If she was not calling her brother, who was seated across the isle, she was shouting at her mother who was right next to her! Her father was in a seat behind but seemed totally oblivious to the noise! I suppose they ignore her all the time and it is just "white noise" in their house? The other irritation was the bell somewhere above my head which kept pinging ALL night long. The people on the flight were mainly Indians - very few Westerners so our food was curry! Surprise? An announcement was made before serving the food that it was all Halaal. Now I have no problem with anybody's eating habits but SAA should advise those of us who do not like Halaal food, that we need to pre-order something else maybe? In this day and age of democratic society, having something forced down my throat, or starve, is not quite what I have in mind when flying SAA. Other than that, full praise to the staff and pilot..

As we disembarked, the lovely warm air hit my limbs which tuned to jelly. Warm for the first time in months, it was a delicious feeling. Our luggage took ages to arrive, but then it was plain sailing to the hotel as the traffic was light by Mumbai standards. The driver, sent by the Vivanta President Hotel, was extremely courteous and pointed out the sights as we sped along. Loads of "shacks" just past the airport with 24 tyre repair places still open. What story does that tell you about the driving? Taxi's still plying for trade, young couples on scooters whizzing past at nearly 02.00 in the morning. Apparently, 02.00 is the witching hour for those living in Mumbai. We won't be testing that theory though! The hotel welcome was superb and a long glass of fresh watermelon juice was delivered to our room. Although still fairly early by Cape Town time, we were exhausted from the long day and fell into bed.

We woke at 08.00, turned over for 30 minutes more shut-eye and woke at 10.20 - too late for breakfast. Bummer! So after a shower, we headed for an early lunch at the hotel's Italian Restaurant and our first Kingfisher beer. I am sure many more of those will be consumed as we discovered the heat today! The service is first-class.

Our hotel suggested we walk to Colaba Causeway - just 10 mins, they said. Well, James managed to get us to walk very much more than that, somehow.

Mumbai is noisy as everybody will tell you - everybody blows their horn just for the hell of it, red robots don't seem to mean much but we soon learnt that following the locals was the only way to cross the street - just try and close your eyes to the scooters, brightly coloured buses, millions of taxi cabs that look as if they have seen better days and just as many bicycles. The locals seem to use the "local" taxis and they are crammed into the back seat. There are more "sedate" cabs that look in better shape but most probably cost more too.

It seems that school is held on a Saturday as we passed many parents with their children, all in very smart uniform. They seemed to come from the Convent School.  We walked, we walked some more, I asked directions, we walked some more, we started sweating, we walked some more....past shack like "shops" and very smelly areas. We found a spot near the sea and James took a video saying " this is Mumbai's Blue Flag Beach" Tongue in cheek as the water was so filthy. There was a young guy sitting there who turned round to glare at both of us - if looks could kill, we would not have survived. Sarcasm obviously did not go down well with this chap. Other than that, most folk have been friendly as we are soooo obviously tourists. We did not see many westerners at all today.

Some Indians do not speak English and will just shrug if you ask for directions but other were helpful, in sending us in the wrong direction!!!

We did not see many beggars today in Colaba (the tourist area of Mumbai) and nobody bothered us too much except some weird balloon sellers who were selling a packet of huge balloons - so big, I think one could take off on them! There was a young boy begging at a traffic light and 2 Indian men gave him money. Along the Causeway, a women with an arm hacked off, tried to beg. It looked so gross but one has to wonder if this was a genuine accident or a deliberate act to make begging easier?

The heat, the blisters on my toes did nothing for me when surrounded by the crowds at the Gateway to India. Security is tight in Mumbai - one's luggage is checked again once you are OFF the plane, the car is checked at the hotel, bags are checked at the hotel if you come back from a walk. Rather embarrassing having 4 large 650 ml bottles of Kingfisher in the shoulder bag! Seems we are not really 5* folk - love the ambiance and the comfort but the wallet with ZAR conversion is not so loaded!

The Gateway to India was crowded with Indian tourists - all waiting for the cruise to Elephanta Island?  This gateway was constructed to commemorate  the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to the city. Completed in 1920 it remains a striking symbol of the British Raj. The end of the era happened in 1947 when the British troops left India via the "Gateway to India". Camera men are all over the tourists in this area - trying to sell you a picture of yourself against the monument. With all cell phones able to take pics these days, one has to wonder how much business they do? Although, we did see a fair number of them taking shots of people grinning from ear to ear! It's just something that first time tourists "have" to do?

The area we wandered around is made up of many little shops selling all kinds of wares from cigarettes to hardware, to basins, to clothing and everything in between. Near to the Gateway to India there were guys making "fresh" juice and others selling delectable looking ice-creams. However, we have been warned about eating anything off the street so we sweated onwards! The other tip picked up before we left SA was that the Indians re-sell bottled water after gluing the caps back on! We saw evidence of this along this area - crazy what people will do to make a quick buck at the expense of foreigners health! I also spotted a circle of kids sitting on the pavement eating some food. Tough tummies!!

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, close to the Gateway to India, is very grand and shows Moorish, Florentine and Oriental styles - it is also the first hotel in India to have electricity, the first with a lift (elevator), the first licensed bar in Mumbai and the first to host international jazz bands.  Although we are staying at a Taj (President) the prices do vary and Taj Mahal was just a tad more than we wished to pay!

The hooting in Mumbai is constant, the heat is sweat-inducing, the pavements are a hit and miss zone with many pot holes which nearly resulted in a  sprained ankle, the smells are quite gross in some places we passed, but over-all the people are smiling and happy and very, very polite.

We made it back to the hotel in one piece but totally drenched in sweat and with blisters on my toes. Another shower was called for and a Kingfisher or two!

For an early, casual supper we headed to the restaurant at the Pool Deck which serves Indian cuisine. Not being a food boff, I cannot even remember the names of the dishes - suffice to say that we had crackers (white and thin) with 3 different dips - delectable! Then curry chicken and prawns with some Indian bread which one dips into the curry sauce. Dessert was Indian Ice Cream for me - very rich and yummy and some sort of spicy cake slice for James which was just as tasty. Again, the service is superb, friendly and very pleasant.

Tomorrow, we hope to explore further.......

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Preparation - Visas and Injections!!

Having taken the plunge and booked our flights and accommodation, it now comes down to the nitty-gritty of visas etc. It appears that all is not equal in this area of tourist visas to India.

Different countries have numerous visa requirements and one cannot argue with these as they all have to consider their national security.

For India, I was told on the Internet what was required as a South African Passport holders.
We complied with all the info and set off to the Visa agents appointed by the Indian Consulate.

First hassle - not all the documentation was in order. Why? Because there are different rules for Cape Town and Johannesburg! Both cities are in South Africa, so why would there be different rules? Nobody seems to know.

At this stage, full praise must go to the staff at the Visa offices - friendly, very helpful and obviously just as confused by this strange rule as we were.

Next problem....my partner has lived in South Africa since 1978, has full citizenship and a South African Passport. However, as he was born in Wales therefore a British Passport is required for an Indian Visa! Pray tell me what would have happened if he had allowed his British Passport to lapse? NO ENTRY TO INDIA!!!!! NO HOLIDAY!!! Money Down the drain!!!!!

This is Number One lesson - check all the visa requirements BEFORE booking accommodation or flights.

So I went off to add all the extra documentation and my partner went off to do the same plus pay a different fee (as a British Citizen!) for a visa in his British Passport.

It seems totally daft - however, we only found this all out AFTER the air-tickets were purchased and the accommodation was booked.

Cheap destination? Maybe not!
As South Africans, we pay a very high price for international travel as our Rand is worth so little.
For example, see the exchange rate below taken off Forex Exchange site on the same day:

1 ZAR = 6.38957 Rupees (this is even lower now!)
1USD = 66.4459 Rupees
1Euro = 88.9722 Rupees
1GPB = 103.321 Rupees

Needless to say, foreigners to our shores are able to have an incredible holiday in South Africa!

Now, having being scared totally sh......less by the many blogs on diseases in India, we visited the Travel Clinic to get some protection from all these horrid bugs and germs lurking around our chosen destination.

WOW - at what price - we could have bought another International Air-ticket for the cost of all these horrid jabs. The lady at the Travel Clinic was most apologetic for sticking those needles into our arms but that did not soften the pill of the astronomical costs.

It must be said that only Yellow Fever is compulsory, however the following are recommended:
Hepatitis A&B, Rabies, Typhoid, Tetanus and Polio. Malaria Tablets are recommended for certain areas of India - this info is available on the web.

Or you can save your money and take a chance on being bitten by a monkey or rabid dog!!

Spread over 3 whole weeks - one arm week 1, both arms in Week 2 and then a merciful break for 2 weeks until the last lot, again in one arm.

However, all this still does not prevent Delhi Belly, the very real threat in India, given their apparent unhygienic conditions. Stories of people wishing they could just die as they were suffering so much, makes one cringe in terror.

So why on earth have we chosen this destination?

Perhaps it was a weak moment and the fact that my son said "Please go somewhere other than Europe or UK this year, Mom" A Clinical Psychologist should surely know better than to send his mother off into the wilds of India where it seems the germs abound, just waiting to attack these silly foreign tourists?

A 101 things to avoid in India - did I really need to see that information on line after paying all this money? NO!!

Do we cancel and lose all our hard-earned cash or do we put on a brave face and meet those mean, alien germs head on?

Travel is, after all, an adventure into the unknown and this will certainly be one for us.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained so bring it on!!

We are determined to look only at the positive side from now on - friends who have visited India who rave about the place, books relating to Indian travels which start off hating the dirt and grime, horrid toilets, crowds and yet come away with lovely thoughts and memories.

It seems a country that is so diverse and so "in your face" with total sensory overload, that we are excited to become part of an extraordinary journey.

Holding thumbs, ankles, toes and anything else on the body!

PS - We enjoyed an incredible 4 week holiday in India - with some simple precautions, we escaped Dehli Belly, we loved the people, the food is incredible and the country is mind-blowing in it's diversity, total traffic mayhem and noise. A must on your Bucket List!!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Mall Shopping for Rainy Days

Mall Shopping in Cape Town for those Rainy days!



V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

Sometimes, visitors to our shores get caught with inclement weather (May - August) but don't be put off as we still have glorious days of sunshine during these months. For those rainy, wet and miserable days, the many local shopping malls will keep you occupied.

V&A Waterfront:
Our Number One choice is the V&A Waterfront. It's scenic location, surrounded by a working harbour, offers locals and tourists alike, an exciting shopping experience. Table Mountain looms over the city in it's many different moods and the huge "table cloth" that drapes over the mountain is a sight to behold. One of the 7 wonders of the natural world, this famous mountain is loved by all who gaze upon her. If you are unmoved by Table Mountain, perhaps it's time to step back and wonder where your sense of awe and child-like wonder has vanished to! Get it back from its hidey hole and enjoy Cape Town's cosmopolitan atmosphere.

The V&A is visited by locals and tourists and buzzes over week-ends and in the summer months. Whilst it is less busy during winter, this makes shopping easier and the many restaurants often have special deals on hearty winter fare. With over 80 restaurants to chose from, there is something for everybody's taste.

Shops abound with many craft areas like the Red Shed and the WaterShed Craft Market that are must visits. With much to discover, you can wander along, just browsing the many, varied shops, or take in a movie, until the rain stops. The shops are open from 09.00 hrs - 21.00 hrs so plenty of time to catch a cruise or brave the adrenalin adventure boat on a sunny day. Sometimes, just "people" watching whilst nursing a beer or coffee can be just as much fun as spending your hard-earned cash!

Canal Walk:
Over 400 shops on 2 levels - do the complete circuit and your feet will realise that you have visited Canal Walk! Open 09.00 hrs - 21.00 hrs every day, this shopping centre enjoys a busy trade on most days. Week-ends are often very hectic and prior to Christmas it competes with Oxford Street!

In addition to its popularity with the Western Cape's vibrant and discerning shoppers, Canal Walk has evolved into a must-visit tourist destination. It attracts thousands of international visitors every year with its spectacular architecture, spacious malls and unparallelled array of local and international retail brands as well as the unique Afri-Bizarre, which showcases the work of local retailers and craftsmen. 

Cavendish Square:
40 years on and still looking good, due to refurbishment, this is Southern Suburbs most exclusive shopping centre with approx. 200 shops and numerous coffee bars and restaurants. Frequented mainly by locals, the shopping hours are not as long as V&A or Canal Walk.

Kalk Bay and Simonstown: Daytime shopping only
Both these villages offer unique shopping experiences, albeit on the Main Road so not water-proof! Kalk Bay has antiques, art, china and bric-a-brac with numerous cafes to sustain the hunger pangs.

Simonstown has an interesting array of small shops, many with tourist souvenir's.

I have not listed the many smaller shopping experiences that abound in Cape Town - you are sure to chance upon these as you explore the peninsula.

We hope you enjoy this small sample of Cape Town indoor shopping venues!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Holocaust Centre

Firstly, I must admit to travelling for fun, relaxation, good food, great photos and exciting experiences. Being depressed by a travel experience does not fit into my equation as this does not result in a "feel good" moment. However, history shapes us, history teaches us valuable life lessons, which one hopes will always improve the quality of life on earth. So the bad and ugly have to be taken into account in order to give us all a better life.

Sadly, this is not always the case and it seems that sometimes human beings do not heed the past.

The local Holocaust Centre at the Jewish Museum in Cape Town was hosting an Anne Frank exhibition so we decided to educate ourselves on this era of distressful history. I think most people have heard of Anne Frank and have perhaps also read her diary, which was published in book form and has been translated into over 50 languages.

A quote from Anne's Frank says "Isn't it wonderful that none of us need wait a moment before starting to change the world" Profound words from a young girl who was subjected to such terror before dying of disease just days before the camps were liberated in 1945.

The Holocaust Centre is very well documented  but this really is not for the feint-hearted - it's very depressing to imagine what atrocities these Jewish people endured before being gassed or dying of disease or starvation. And yet, it also remains inspirational to listen to the stories spoken by survivors who went on to marry and have families. To me, that in itself, is an amazing feat and shows the strength of the human character to overcome extreme suffering, pain and humiliation.

So the story of the concentration camps under Hitler's rule is something we should all educate ourselves about as the tales are worse than one's worst nightmare.

The Museum is well laid out and there is a restaurant on site for those who still have their appetite after viewing the nightmare of the 2nd World War and Hitler's reign.

It is truly worth a visit, especially for us non-Jewish folk. For over 6 million people to be wiped out, for sole survivors to lose all their family members - what could be more devastating?

I cannot imagine.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Rhodes Memorial

View across towards Somerset West and Northern Suburbs of Cape Town
at Rhodes Memorial

On a clear day, you will see the distant Hangklip Mountains (Rooi Els) on the far right, with False Bay shimmering in the sunlight. The views enable the visitor to see right around to the Blouberg bay area on the left. So two oceans at one glance, with the suburbs of Cape Town spread below.

This is a favourite spot for locals and a must for visitors to Cape Town.

Sir Herbert Baker designed the memorial, to honour Cecil John Rhodes (1853 - 1902) who apparently loved this site.

It is an imposing memorial to a man who was both a mining magnate and the Prime Minister of the Cape Colony at one time. Known for his drive and determination, the 49 steps represent his life.
The monument was completed in 1912.

If you enjoy history, then visit Rhodes Cottage Museum in Muizenberg where Rhodes spent the last years of his life.

It's a fun place to visit - we could see the snow on the distant peaks today although Cape Town was bathed in brilliant sunshine. The Cape never gets enough snow for skiing but those snow-capped mountains sure do bring on the biting cold nights (for us locals used to 8 months of summer!!)

Once you have explored the views, sat on the stone steps to contemplate life of a bygone era, exclaimed at the beauty of the 8 carved lions, climbed the many steps, it is time for some refreshment at the Rhodes Memorial Restaurant.

For the energetic, there are hikes up to the Blockhouse and all the way round to either the Cableway or Kirstenbosch. For safety reasons, do not hike with valuables or on your own.

This spot is a firm favourite with both locals and visitors. Like so many of  Cape Town's attractions, you will often see more locals over week-ends than tourists. During the week, we are all at work (or should be) and it becomes a tourist mecca. We love to share the diversity, beauty and special places of our incredible Mother City, Cape Town!!



Enjoy some refreshments at Rhodes memorial Restaurant

This restaurant burnt down in a devastating mountain fire - it has not yet been re-built (2023) 

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Wijnland Motor Museum

Wijnland Motor Museum - Photographic Heaven!

Wijnland Motor Museum Cape Town

What drives people to collect old wrecks and vintage cars?

I can understand vintage cars – yes – they are normally kept in tip-top condition and invoke feelings of passion for a bygone era when life was simpler and time was not ticking against the clock.

But wrecks and rust? Hobbies take on all forms and they bring pleasure to the person who pursues them so we cannot judge what inspires some and not others.

I love visiting this this old car museum – it is indeed the owners passion  and a photographers delight!

The Wijnland Auto Museum displays South Africa’s largest collection of classic and vintage automobiles. It is also ideally positioned at the ‘gateway’ to the winelands. The Wijnland Auto Museum is in Joostenbergvlakte and getting there involves taking exit 34 off the N1; taking a left and then a right, look out for Cape Garden Centre and drive past this. The Garden Centre is also a stop for those who are peckish after the visit to the museum.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Llandudno Boulder Walk

Boulders at Llandudno Cape Town

  

Sometimes, the most impromptu detour takes one to an unexplored place and results in  a ramble along a path lined with huge, dramatic boulders, the constant crashing of the never-ending surf and a few other like minded people.

We were headed back home via the coastal road towards Sea Point, when the rolling waves, far below, seemed to call us closer down the steep road towards Llandudno.

Purely from curiosity, we swerved left and headed downwards, past the Security Hut with it's camera's beady eye, whilst being lured slowly downwards by those enormous, yet seemingly innocent rollers. In a dream, they would be terrifying as they rush to sweep one under, plunging the unsuspecting swimmer into a swirling maelstrom of unleashed power as they rush towards the shore.

We reached the parking area - so tiny compared to the waves (only 35 vehicles!) but managed to secure a spot. We wandered down the path and found the steps leading to the beach. However, the huge boulders further on caught our attention - just a bold as those waves and certainly worth a closer look. So we did not descend to the beach but wandered further on, meeting other strollers with dogs and children!

The path is to the left of the parking area and heads off  to a rocky headland of crazy shapes and sizes which totally overshadow man. Find you way around them, clamber over or under, sit and gaze at the never-ending power of the ocean crashing to the rocks below. The sound of the ocean is so loud, yet  very soothing as only the sea can be. On one side, gaze at the architectural mansions which "adorn" the slopes to the right of the beach.

A rich man's paradise - it seems so and what a spectacular part of Cape Town!

It was an unexpected delight and a wonderful ramble for adults with children to explore under and over the boulders!

A short, but energising walk for us in the glorious winter sunshine that so epitomises Cape Town.

In the end, we did not even venture down the steps to the beach where a number of people were sun-bathing (yes, it does happen in Cape Town in August!) as by now a cold beer was calling.....so we headed off to the V&A Waterfront to quench out thirst.

NB: Please take note - the water is cold here and the currents are strong. Lifesavers are on duty during summer.

On the other side of Llandudno lies Sandy Bay - a famous nudist beach! Visit if you dare.

Update: We have done this walk again (July 2015) and it remains one of our favourite spots for a winter wander. The crashing waves against the shore are music to my ears, the family picknicking on the huge rocks makes me wish I had brought a picnic too, and the surfers catching some waves all make for a soothing afternoon in the winter sunshine!
Some new photos have been uploaded on Flickr in Album "Llandudno"

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com