India - Things I love or hate about India!




Mumbai, India

India is such a melting pot of experiences that many will return to my memory at odd times - here are just some of them:

Commerce:
Industry is alive and well in India - from the latest technology to the humble shoe repairer, umbrella repairer, the seamstress on an old fashioned sewing machine, the hardware store that is so small yet has just about everything, the Fisher folk with their nets cast just offshore,  the tuk-tuk drivers, the men on bicycles that still have those old-fashioned racks on the back, last seen in the 60's!, the hand-drawn carts carrying goods, these  Indian people are all entrepreneurs, each in their own small way. It's wonderful to see and takes one back into an era that has been forgotten, such is the pace of modern life in many Western countries where many of these skills have long been forgotten in favour of modernization.

Beach Meditation:
If you spot an Indian man squatting on the beach, gazing at the Arabian Sea, please don't go up to him, thinking that this is a meditating guru.
It works like this:
Make a little hole in the sand close to the high tide water mark
Squat down and expose the buttocks
Gaze longingly at the ocean in front of you
Once you have completed your ablutions, get up and walk away, leaving a little pile for the waves to wash away at next high tide.
We grew up with LONG DROPS as kids at our beach house long before flush toilets happened. These work well - all you need is a spade and some effort to make a very deep hole! Not rocket science? To be fair, these folk are fishermen and live and exist near the sea so their outlook is most probably more in tune with nature than mine is!

Umbrella Romance:
The Indian population has no chance despite the government pleading to keep the family at one or two kids.
Little black umbrellas dotted along the shore mean that these are courting couples - snogging or groping, they all look young enough to still be at school!
It's so funny to see them huddled together under these tiny umbrellas.

Horn Please:
Most vehicles have this painted on the back - Sound Horn -  it's a way of life in India - the HORN.
Perhaps a thorn in the side of those worried about sound pollution?

Beach Clean-ups:
Alleppey needed beach clean ups quite often due to the very large crowds that descend on the beach. The next day, the ladies were out in force picking up litter. With red and white striped umbrella's over their heads, they made a pretty early morning sight.

Is America next to Africa?
We had this question posed to us from a family outside of Kerala. Our driver (with a degree) was most shocked and hastily explained some geography to this chap. Apparently, most "white" visitors are deemed to be either from America or Britain. Yet South Africa features in cricket and most Indians LOVE their cricket!
The majority of those who asked where we were from, seemed to know about South Africa, mainly through sport.

Friendly, so friendly:
The favourite question from most folk who asked where we were from, was also "What is your name" I really did not grasp the significance of this - perhaps they are looking for some different names for their kids one day?

Caste System:
The caste system is still very in place but nobody really wanted to explain this to us. The closest we came was the explanation that the "name" suggests the caste. We did see an article on cricket where the "backward" caste was mentioned. What an awful name and rather sad in this age of democracy.

School Uniforms:
The school children in Alleppey all wear very smart uniforms and always look extremely neat. As mentioned previously, literacy is alive and well in this province with many English Speaking schools. These children are most polite and friendly - it's says much for their upbringing.

I loved the total mayhem of traffic in India - it's organised chaos at its very best.

I loved the vibrant colours of India

I loved the little boy who we helped to swim in the pool at Panoramic Sea Resort, Alleppey. He  came to thank us, chatted about the India cricket against Australia and shook hands when his family were leaving. Making sure that he found us on two separate occasions. Beautiful English and wonderful manners.

I loved the smell of spices in Munnar, the Hill Station where the weather is cooler and not humid.

I loved the natural forests of Kerala and the beautiful waterfalls

I loved the wide open beaches of South Goa

I loved the many fishing boats dotted on the shores of Kerala

I loved the fact that so many Indians ASK to have their photograph taken

I loved the fact that Indians ask which country we come from

I loved the service from the staff at Panoramic Beach Resort, Alleppey

I loved the crazy, bumpy rides in the well-worn tuk-tuks

I loved the South Indian food and especially the buffet dinners at Holiday Inn, Goa

I loved the casual dining experience at Dreamers, Beach Road, Alleppey

I loved the ride on an Indian Elephant

I loved our time and conversations with Aneesh, our graduate driver in Kerela

I was grateful that I did not have to endure Delhi Belly

I loved the reporting in the "Times of India"

I loved the friendly smiles of the Indian people and the children who wanted "photo please"

I did not enjoy:

Mumbai International Airport - its horrid, totally horrid with virtually no seating or restaurant if one is too early for check-in.

The fact that foreigners cannot drive in India (mind you, it's a wise move on their part!)

The humidity at all coastal places that we visited - Mumbai, Goa, Alleppey.

The garbage littering some places

The stares from some Indian males in Mumbai

The fact that water is not drinkable

The men using the beach as a toilet

Whist we were very sceptical about visiting a country so very different to everywhere we have travelled to date, it was an incredibly interesting journey.

Don't rush around from place to place, stop and experience the people and their way of life - it will be well worth your while.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

India - Kumily and Thekkady (23)

On the way to Kumily - the ever present Tuk-Tuk!

Kumily has many hotels and home stays. A young chap started talking to me when I took a photo of the "Don't Throw Plastics into the Forest" sign. He said that people don't obey the rules here and throw litter around. He was also telling us that the home stays are very good - clean, basic rooms within a family home. Kumily is all about tourism now with the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. We visited a shop that sells all the Hindu gods and there are many of them - each one has a different purpose. Their 2 shops have been around and in the family for 25 years and were the only 2 shops originally plus a grocery store. The town has certainly grown since then with many tourist shops now. His shop has beautiful goods, but expensive so we only bought a small silk painting of an elephant which we will frame back home.

Unfortunately, there is alot of dust down this one road which has many lovely spice shops - the spice smells tantalize the taste buds! There are loads of spice plantations in this area. Down the road, all the shops have had to move backwards as they have encroached on the highway (!!) so much that it became about 7 metres wide instead of 10 metres. So there is dust and noise everywhere as they move themselves back and re-build their stores. Once that is done, the road will be repaired. At least these people have taken heed of the warning before being bulldozed into the ground!

In a lake near Alleppey, 2 resorts are having to bash down their buildings as they are on government land and illegal. That's loads of cash lost as the one has over 25 rooms plus it's public areas. Crazy tales. The government does not take no for an answer so destroy or be destroyed.



Martial Arts Show, Kumily, India

We are now off to watch the Kalaripayattu performance. This is the oldest form of martial arts and is known as the mother of martial arts. Originating in South India, training is holistic and aims at co-ordination and control over mind and body. Kung-Fu comes from this originally and draws its inspiration from the strength of  animals such as lion, tiger, elephant, wild boar, snake and crocodile. Although Kung-Fu originated in India, it sort of got claimed by China.

Originally, Kalaripayattu form of martial art was shrouded in mystery and was taught by the masters in total isolation and away from prying eyes.

This is one show that one simply cannot afford to miss if visited Kumily. The holy area where the performance takes place is below the seating of the spectators and I was totally riveted to my red plastic chair and totally enthralled by these 4 guys and their superb performance. When one sees sparks fly from daggers, it's scary! They are so flexible that some of the body positions shown are beyond my understanding and unfit limbs. The performances with fire were spell-binding - such total concentration and skill has to take years of practice and total concentration. My face was screwed up in terror most of the time - one slip and an arm or leg would have been sliced off. Simply mind-blowing.

Tomorrow we are eventually off to Munnar ......140 kms and most probably 5 hours or more......

Cheers!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Kumily Thekkady, Kerala (22)

After a brief rest in our hotel Green Forest, Thekkady, we headed to the Mudra Cultural Centre for a display of the Kathakali Show. Kathakali means story-play and is a dance drama which originated in the 17th century in Kerala. The elaborate costumes take ages to put on and if one arrives earlier at the show, you will be able to view this practise. Unfortunately, I did not take my camera as I thought the extra fee was IR 200 - it turns out this was for video only! Artists are trained for 6 years in this form of dance and they can start training from 10 - 12 years old. There are 9 basic expressions used to convey the feelings/emotions and these were demonstrated. Anger, love, sadness, fear, joy, happiness, excitement - all emotions have to be acted out with only facial expressions and hand movements. The lady rolled her eyes every which way to the drum beat and it was hysterical to watch - I did not realise that eyeballs could move in time to music and so rapidly from side to side or up and down! Hand gestures are known as Mudra and are common throughout Indian dance. Two different types of drums plus cymbals make for an exciting beat to all this silent action. A non-dancer also sang, mournful yet very much part of the performance.

Truly something very different from anything we have seen before - as in all cultures, the various forms of local dance such as Maori, Greek, Spanish are always so interesting to witness.

Supper in the hotel - Vegetable Korma for me as it was not supposed to be hot and a capsicum dish for James. Well, what I thought was a red pepper was actually a chilli so burn, burn, burn!!! We ended up swopping food. I should have stuck to my first choice of veg moussaka!

The electricity supply in India can be rather erratic and the lights go off at the most inconvenient times. I got up during the night for the toilet and half-way to the door, the power went off. Total darkness in a new room so I was frozen to the spot with a bursting bladder. Thankfully, the lights came on fairly soon afterwards.

The weather is much cooler here yet there are still hundreds of mosquitoes. They seem to love me, they set me on fire in an most unpleasant way and I hate them! Biting through socks or shorts is no problem for these horrid little pests. Mosquito rage has me in its grip - does anybody know what their beneficial use is? I certainly cannot see the benefit of these blood suckers.

Saturday dawned clear so no rain, thankfully.

Our first excursion was a trip on the Periyar Lake within the Periyar Tiger Reserve. I have my doubts that there are any tigers left but they do have elephants. Foreigners are charged IR 300 to get into the park, whilst locals only pay IR 25. It's a huge difference and rather unfair? Perhaps 50%  or even 100% more would be acceptable. So rather a rip-off. As usual, there were only about 5 Westerners on board - the rest all Indian. They are certainly tourists in their own country which is fantastic.

The cruise on the lake was lovely except for the smell of diesel  from the engines. We were allocated seats and were not allowed to stand up during the journey. Life jackets are compulsory since a bad accident approx. 4 years ago where 35 people died. The boats were always over-crowded and this contributed to the fatal accident. Since then the government has regulated the number of passengers and life-jackets must be used. This lake is man-made and there are still many dead trees in the lake. How they have not rotted away is incredible. The scenery around is of forest, forest and more forest so it unlikely that many animals will come down to drink unless it is very hot. We did spot a baby elephant, some deer and birds nesting on top of the dead trees.

One can also do jungle treks, night treks etc if staying in the area a little longer.  Th e tourism department has various accommodation options plus one right in the middle of the lake! Apparently, this needs to be booked at least 6 months in advance as it is very popular.

Next came an elephant ride. Whilst we are very used to elephants in either Addo Elephant Park or Kruger Park, South Africa neither of us has ever ridden an elephant before. Elephants have featured in Indian mythology for over 3 thousand years and so it seemed fitting that we ride on this gentle Indian beast. Ganesha, the elephant headed Hindu god is the god of good luck and prosperity and don't we all require that? Elephants are used in special Hindu celebrations and many temples have their own elephants. Forestry operations still use elephants.

The elephant camp that we visited has 3 trained elephants, a male and 2 females. They listen so very obediently to their trainers who don't use force, only verbal commands. Our ellie kept wanted to stop and browse but he got called back  the path! Shame! They can eat whole bunches of bananas, skin and all. Apparently, they don't enjoy peeled bananas. With funny pink ears and hairy backs, this ride was something special. Luckily for me, I have been exercising in the pool these past 3 weeks so I managed to get my leg over and across the very wide back of the elephant. Without those stretches, I think I would have torn a muscle - you know how wide an elephants back is????? I am very proud of  myself that I could sit astride an elephant's back without a problem! James battled!

Such a fun time - 30 minutes was just too short! A very cheeky sms came from a friend who wanted to know if the elephant will OK after having to carry my weight. D and L, come and try it so that I can laugh!!!!! Loved the sms though - " Is the elephant OK?" Bloody cheek! To be honest, I have put on weight in India with all the delicious food. The buffet suppers are the best - one can try various dishes and go back for those one truly enjoys. Dreamers in Alleppy has also been so good - really tasty food without being hot curry.

Next stop was to a sample of spice plants and a spice shop. The chap was very informative and gave us much information about various plants. Indian has so many different spices which are used for all sorts of ailments from diabetes to jaundice, to high blood pressure or cholesterol. Our guide is a qualified mechanical technician, looking for work. Sadly, it seems that persons with tertiary education cannot always get jobs locally in their fields.

A cyclone is hitting the East Coast of India (Bay of Bengal) and hundreds of thousands of people have been evacuated. Luckily, India is so big that we should be OK on this side in Kerala. We hope so.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Alleppey to Thekkady (21)

On the way to Kumily, Kerala, India

Up early this morning, we were amazed to see a rainbow over the beach, a soccer game in progress and many people taking a brisk walk. Shows what all we miss by sleeping too much!! Although we were a tad early for breakfast, the staff were very obliging and got us fed in record time.

We set off at 09.15 hrs with driver, Aneesh. Such a pleasant chap, well-spoken, well educated (BSc Degree) and we can understand what he is saying. Thankfully! The trip to Thekkady is 145 km and took us 4.5 hours!!!!! OK, we had about 4 very brief photo stops, the problem is narrow roads, much traffic and twists and turns as one proceeds into the hills.

Through Alleppey one passes shop upon shop, tuk-tuk's as always, people everywhere, then suddenly we came upon a "lake" which of course, turned out to be rice paddy fields. The fields are covered in water until the rice is ready, then the water gets drained off. Apparently, there is not enough rice cultivation from individuals anymore, so a corporate has been formed to increase production.

Kerala is known as "God's Own Country as they have a plentiful supply of water all year round, beautiful scenery and no natural disasters. Even the horrendous tsunami a few years back, left Kerala untouched. The roads are pretty good until one gets up into the hills, then there are pot holes every now and again. Our driver says that one should first train in a circus before driving in India - it is chaotic and nerve-wracking but I am pretty used to this now and just hope we remain safe! There are signs such a U-Turn ahead (for curved bend), High Accident Zone with a 24 Hour Hospital just below the road, wear helmet, ya right!! Apparently, 2 wheel drivers can lose their licences if they drive without helmets but it seems that nobody polices this as most drivers wear no helmets and their pillion passengers don't either. Women often sit side saddle holding a child or some shopping.

We passed huge tracts of rubber tree plantations - these owners are very rich despite the 25 year wait for the tree to mature. Thereafter, all is pure profit The  houses along this stretch are palatial homes  - very large and the best we have seen so far in India.

As we started climbing higher, the views were glorious - valleys and with hills covered in natural forest but still the tuk-tuk everywhere! Every now and again a village or town pops up. We have not yet encountered a long stretch of road without habitation - this is everywhere. Understandable, given the huge population in India.

Buses come hurtling down the road, often on the wrong side as they take the corners. The Indians must be born without any nerves or else they learn the ways of the traffic while still tiny toddlers. Nothing else can explain the total disregard of any sort of road etiquette. It's like playing dodgem cars in real life.

We  also saw a large slope of pineapples (these are so sweet here in India), tea plantations, coffee plantations and many spice plantations are we got nearer to Thekkady.

What a very long drive for 145 km!! Thankfully, the Stugaron kept my motion sickness at bay although I don't think I would have managed to go much further.

We have checked into our hotel called Green Forest. Very nice room and bathroom, some Western type food on the menu tonight AND we are able to get Wi-Fi!
Panoramic Sea Resort in Alleppey has been without connection for over 4 days - very, very frustrating.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Alleppey (20)

Panoramic Sea Resort hosted 2 coach loads of kids last night. With only 24 units. heaven only knows how they are fitted in! Both girls and boys of various ages, some couples holding hands! School kids? I would say, lock up your daughters! Anyway, they were very exuberant and the teacher had to shout to make herself heard! Luckily, we were not at all disturbed and woke up before the 2 coaches started up this morning.

The staff seemed eager to go off duty from Breakfast this morning as they phoned us at 8.10 to ask when we would be eating. Can't say I blame them, up late last night and early this morning.

Marari Beach Fishermen, Alleppey, Kerala, India

We decided to take a tuk-tuk to Marari Beach this morning. The hotel called the tuk-tuk (IR 550) and off we set at frightening speed. The forms of transport have been so different - in Colaba, South Mumbia - taxi's only but at fairly reasonable rates. No tuk-tuk's at all in this part of Mumbai - not surprising as the traffic is so crazy without them - it would be murderous with the added tuk-tuk population! In Goa, we had very expensive taxi's or local buses. Again, no tuk-tuk's in this part of South Goa. Now in Alleppey, Kerala, we only have tuk-tuks - no taxi's in sight although perhaps there are some? There are hundreds of tuk-tuks though - like buzzing bees, they swarm all over, all hoping for business. That's not to say that they suffer in any way, the locals use them all the time, from school kids, to couples, to families piled in so that there is not an inch of space between them. Frankly, this amazes me, as we just about fit into a tuk-tuk!!

The driver took off at a cracking pace so one has to hand on for dear life. With the natural flow of air, it was actually quite chilly in the old-fashioned non-ac vehicle! The drive goes thru town and the heads towards the beach, passing many and varied shops along the way. How these tiny stalls make a living is amazing, yet they all seem to be happy with their way of life. Smiles, smiles and more smiles for us crazy Westerners!

Closer to Marari Beach, there were much larger houses with walls in front of them - apparently, this is quite a wealthy area. It reminds me somewhat of Goa - lush and green with the houses surrounded by trees and foliage.

The drive down was pretty nerve racking as the driver seemed hell bent on getting us to the beach quickly. Dodging people, large trucks, 2 wheelers and other tuk=tuks is all in a day's work. Hanging on for dear life, I prayed that we would make it to the beach in one piece!

Luckily, we did and got out thankfully. This beach is supposedly the "swimming" beach but the waves were huge and breaking very close to the shoreline. Sounding like thunder claps is putting it mildly so  neither of us were brave enough to venture into the sea. There are no life guards on duty and I did not feel like being swept out into the Arabian sea. We decided to walk as we had come this far (to swim!!). Setting off at a brisk pace, we soon spotted some fishing boats in the distance so we headed towards them. The sight on this beach puts Paternoster (West Coast, South Africa) to shame. At least 30 or more very large, dug-out type boats line the shore. Many had fishermen working on repairing the nets and they were all smiles and happy to have their photo's taken. The boats have very colourful flags and some even have a shrine on the bow to keep them safe at sea. It was high tide so maybe they only fish at low tide? Communication is not always in English and sign language is open to various interpretations!

Fishermen mending their nets on Marari beach, Alleppey, Kerala, India

Dripping sweat by now due to the humidity it was very annoying that we could not swim. When salty sweat starts pouring into one's eye's it's hard to focus on taking photo's!

We eventually reached the breakwater after an hours walk. Across from the river, there was another beach but as we had walked far enough, we turned around.
We watched a lone fisherman throwing his net into the sea, he then pulls it out again within a few minutes, hoping to have caught something.

A camera man was filming a young couple so I again asked if this was for engagement or marriage. Luckily, his English was very good and he told us that the couple had married earlier today and these were post-marriage videos. He filmed us as well - oh my goodness!!!! Not a pretty sight with sweat drenched hair sticking up like stalks, and shirts molded to our backs. It seems a common occurrence in Alleppey for videos to be taken on the beach. These are always with the couple - no extras allowed!

We headed back to our starting point but endeavoured to cool off somewhat by standing in the waves. The water is divine, cool and refreshing just too scary to enter further. I would imagine that it's safer at low tide?

A group of about 6 guys approached me, shook my hand and said "Welcome to Kerala" They asked my name and where I was from and then offered me a shell. At first I thought they were after selling me the shells so I shook my head. However, one youngster, pressed a shell into my hand and wished me a good holiday.

The spirit of friendliness in all of the places that we have visited so far has been incredible. No hassles, just friendly smiles or waves 95% of the time. A chappie on his bike, carrying goods yesterday actually slowed down so that I could take a photo and James could video. Smiling broadly, he waved to us and carried on amidst the crazy traffic.

This friendly spirit within the Indian people makes this country worth visiting. The staff at Panoramic Sea Resort are simply amazing - the smiles are so genuine and they aim to please at all times. So even though this is nowhere near a 5* resort, the service and total friendliness has made it a wonderful stay.

People also leave their clothing etc on the beach, it appears to stay there until they return!!!!

The most common bird here is a black "crow" They are all over, squawking away. I was fascinated to watch their behaviour on the beach today. Two crows were stripping a coconut of it fibre - one assumes to build a nest somewhere. Later on we watched in total awe as about 4 crows tried to catch a fairly large crab. They would swoop down and grab it, then let go as the wave approached. The poor crab tried scuttling between my feet and then got swished up by a wave. The crows waited for the water to recede and then swooped again. Unfortunately, for them our presence upset their catching strategy and the crab got washed away by the next wave. Fascinating to watch although I did feel very sorry for the poor crab getting pecked at by these large black birds.

We got back to the parking area where a group of youngsters were "swimming" in the shallows and having fun. Even they did not venture much further than their ankles!

The tuk-tuk driver was much more relaxed on the drive back so there was no desperate clinging and the natural AC was a blessing as we could cool off somewhat.

Back at the hotel, a 30 minute swim in the pool got the temperature back to normal levels.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Alleppey (19)

Alleppey, Kerala, India

Alleppey experienced rain and very load thunder overnight so we woke to fairly cold weather this morning. Having booked a tuk-tuk to go to Marari Beach (The Silent Beach) we decided to cancel this outing as it was IR 700. Instead we went into town and experienced life in the shopping district of Alleppey. Tiny shops with all sorts of goods interspersed with some modern clothing or appliance stores, it's quite an eye-opener. One chap with a small stall is a "hardware shop" Everything hanging all over - barely enough space for him! James got chatting and told him that we only have huge, modern hardware stores in Cape Town so he admitted to being a dinosaur! Doors, windows, chips, water, plastic goods, seeds, flowers, umbrellas, shoe repair services, shoes, and the ever-present traffic.

There do not appear to be any stop signs in Alleppey - whoever hoots the loudest, seems to have right of way. As pedestrians, we first stood and waited for traffic to stop or slow -  do we really want to become fossils?? No - so take the bull by the horns and act like a local - walk right into the oncoming traffic and pray that it either swerves around you or you are fast enough to dodge. I am very proud of myself, having negotiated a number of hairy crossings and survived to tell the tale.

Many of the men were lungis - white cloths wrapped around their waists. These are very popular and apparently, there are more fancy ones, with a different name, for special occasions. The office or hotel workers wear slacks - however, it seems these are discarded at home for the free and easy comfort of the lungi's. We have found the people so friendly and many are willing for us to take photo's. An elderly chap, on a bicycle delivering goods, actually smiled and slowed down so that both James and I could film him. Such generosity of spirit is amazing to witness. At no stage have we ever felt threatened - even though we realise that we stand out like sore thumbs. I am not sure where the other Western tourists go but they certainly don't seem to walk around in India like we have done.

The humidity increased as the day went on and we had a 5 km walk back to he hotel. We always look like total idiots as we get drenched in sweat, hair sticking up all over, and shirts sticking to our backs. The Indians don't ever appear to be at all hot - very frustrating!! They all look cool and calm - it's no wonder we get strange looks - these crazy Westerners, sweating like pigs on a VERY cool day in Alleppey!! I have never taken so many showers in my life!

Some spring rolls for lunch and we hope to get to Munnar tomorrow if the Travel Desk guy gets his act together. He acts as if there is no tomorrow - maybe he is fed-up because we cancelled the Backwater excursion which was IR 5500 for a few hours.

There is still no Wi-Fi at the hotel which is even more frustrating. Shades of Telkom SA?

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

India - Alleppy (18)

News Snippets - 8-10-2013
The Indian Government has decided that tourism is vitally important to the country and has therefore passed a motion that citizens from over 40 countries would be able to obtain a visa on arrival. Travellers over 60, from all countries would also be eligible for a Visa on Arrival. This news from the "Times of India"

The State Bank of India (SBI) has made history by announcing it's first woman chairperson in it's 206 year history!! Arundhati Bhattacharya is the first woman to head an Indian Fortune 500 company and the sole female CEO among the Fortune 500 companies. Certainly history is being made here and this will perhaps open more doors for higher positions for women in India??

On the subject of women, Betty Karan, wife of the late Ravi Karunakaran, opened a huge museum in memory of her husband. The coir business was started 100 years ago and is still going today with approx. 800 employees. A long history of coir making in Alleppey! Ravi died in 2003 and the museum opened in 2006. It's an incredible collection of art works, curios, porcelain, ivory, glass, carvings, antiques and more. Betty started collecting items at the tender age of 13 and it appears that she is still on this mission at 75. A world traveller, with recent travels to South America and Antarctica,  this must be one incredible lady with connections all over the globe. There is the most beautiful, porcelain globe from China amongst the  3800 pieces in over 10,000 sq ft of vast space. This museum was specially built and Betty has her own private entrance to it all. Beautiful pieces do need to be constantly admired, would you not think?

A large mural adorns one wall - this has the names of 194 countries and took 8 months of work y 3 artists from Kerala. Made with only natural colours such as lime, yellow ochre, red ochre, black lamp soot, blue from some leaf (can't remember!) this was all done with a Arrow Grass Brush. Some of the finely carved chests come from Burma and there are exquisite pieces from all around the world. It's a total treasure chest spread over numerous rooms and 2 floors.

As one enters, a large 1948 Buick is on show, looking in mint condition. There is just so much to see that it is difficult to take it all in. A personal guide takes one around and no photos are allowed. The words of Sree Narayanu, One Caste, One Religion, One God for all humanity have not taken root sadly. There is a manuscript written on palm leaves although I have no clue what is written on this - imagine writing on palm leaves?

The wealth that surrounds this family stem from coir. Coconut palms, then the husks of the coconuts = coir fibre which is spun into Coir Matting. Products are then manufactured from this. This industry has allowed Betty and her late husband, Ravi to travel the world seeking artistic treasures. It seems that Betty has not yet satisfied her desire for travel and there will most probably be some new additions to these incredible collections.

The entrance fee was IR 500.00 so not a cheap outing but really worth seeing.

We walked back in the heat, watched the booms come down for the train which hurtles past at great speed. There were people walking on the track in the distance - how stupid can one be? The guard at the crossing was frantically waving them to get off the track. Once the train had passed, they came sauntering along as if this was a lovely, pedestrian walkway! Takes all sorts!

A swim cooled us down - I love being able to splash right into a warm pool. Despite the warmth of the water it is still cooling and refreshing.

James massage went off better than mine - I doubt he will sport massive bruises. Lucky man!

The hotel phone lines are down so no Wi-Fi - we hope its restored soon.

On that note, beer time.....

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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India - Alleppy - (17)

Alleppey seems to encourage "blob" days - it's so laid back!

 I am also finding the humidity rather draining if walking during the day. Bring on some rain, please! So a taste of some Ayurvedic Massage should bring some more relaxation to the day? The centre at Panoramic Sea Resort does women one day and then men on alternate days so James could not experience this at the same time. I chose the Head, Neck and Shoulder massage. Firstly, my clothes had to come off (top only) and then I was seated on a step type seat. The lady poured oil on my head and pulled my hair up and down. Not very relaxing at all - in fact, rather painful! The brief head massage that my hairdresser gives me, is more relaxing! Anyway, next came the shoulders with more oil. Then onto the bed for the back massage. As I am not an expert on massage methods, I found the back massage painful rather than soothing. The lady also pinches the flesh - OK I know that I am overweight and there are many folds hanging, just waiting to be pinched, but still.....! It was with great relief that this all came to an end after 30 minutes. To put the cherry on the top, her cell phone rang 3 times during my allotted 30 minutes!  I did feel relaxed but not so relaxed as to require sleep. Looking like Sputnik with this oily hair sticking up on all sides was rather hysterical - thankfully, the camera was hidden so there is no record of this horrid sight.

Imagine my shock and horror to find huge bruises on both sides of my body after a few hours. Painful to sleep on and is this really supposed to do me some good? I have my doubts. One wonders if everybody is properly trained in this method of massage? So rather a disappointing experience after the huge hype that seems to surround Ayurvedic Massage in India. Luckily, James has not been put off by my experience so it will be interesting to hear his tale tomorrow.

All I can say is "Imagen" in Pinelands with my friend, Celia will be on my list of  to-do's when I return to South Africa. Her touch is soothing and relaxing and always gets rid of my tense muscles!

In the afternoon, we took a wander up into Alleppey. School was out for the day and many children passed us on their way home. Most walking, some on bicycles, a few in Tuk-Tuks. So friendly, they all wave and say "Hi"  The boys are somewhat braver and asked for a photo. These children are very well dressed in very smart uniforms - they truly look a credit to their school, their parents and their country. Eventually, I suppose they will all turn into honking drivers but for now, they are  somewhat quieter! Walking along the road is always a noisy affair as everybody hoots when passing - perhaps this is taken as a warning signal in case they do knock you over?

By now rather hot and sweaty again, the cooler air on the beach was welcome. However, the beach is full of litter after the busy Sunday. Some has been swept into piles but not picked up. Quite a marked change from the first day we saw the beach. The after school/work crowd were having some fun in the water, despite the dangerous rip. Maybe the locals know the safer spots as foreigners are told not to swim at Alleppey Beach.

Let's see what tomorrow brings.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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India - Alleppy Backwaters (16)

Alleppey Backwaters, Kerala, India

What an amazing day in the backwaters of Alleppy. We were going to get the normal Indian Ferry for IR 10 but were stopped by a guy touting a private cruise for 3 hours at IR 1200. Looking at the ferry boat, which was packed and didn't look too comfy, we decided to take the small motor boat. A very good choice, even though it sounded as if it would stop in some crazy place, never to go again. The chap took us through tiny backwaters where the larger boats cannot go so we could see how the locals live. It is quite amazing that these people live and breathe by the back waters. They scour their pots in the water, they wash their hair in the water, they bash their washing on their washing stones, they bathe in the water - in fact, the water is their life-line. It's just incredible. Whilst the waters don't have litter floating, one has to wonder how clean it actually is? Fishing was also very evident - from an old granny to a young boy, they stand with just their fishing sticks.

Alleppy Backwaters, Kerala, India

People are so happy and most of them love having their photos taken. Often, the children will run out and wave just so that one can take their photo. Smiling faces, happy faces - it is wonderful to experience this abundance of joy  in these peoples lives. The houses on these canals are on a narrow strip of land abutting the rice paddy fields. Apparently each house has a section of paddy field so they have  steady income. There were only a few women working the fields today as it is Sunday. However, being Sunday, it gave is immense insight into the lives of these people living along the canals of Alleppy.

Our "driver" had to contend with an oil leak and water hyacinths clogging his propeller, and trying to turn the boat around at a very narrow spot. He managed this with finesse and despite our misgivings, gave us a fantastic tour. He apparently earns IR 6000.00 per month and has been doing this job for 20 years. Thanks, Joseph for an amazing day. 

The backwaters have miles and miles of waterways and there are many various boats around. The houseboats are from 1 - 3 bedroom, there are the day-tripper boats, much bigger than our little chug-a-long and many locals in dug-out canoes getting from place to place. The backwaters are the reason that most people visit this area and we hope to enjoy another trip soon.

To get to the boat jetty originally, we took a new 4 wheeler tuk-tuk for IR 50.00. On the way back, we got a normal tuk-tuk - wow - bouncing, can't see much and it's the same price as the new ones! The driver could not really speak English! We had to wait at the train crossing for ages before the train went by at speed. The way back was thru some really grotty, dirty areas - in fact, the backwaters looked cleaner than these particular streets in Alleppy.

We arrived back in our room to find the bed decorated with frangipani flowers, which smell simply heavenly and some incense burning to give the room a wonderful fragrance. As I have said before, the service here is top-class even if the accommodation is only basic Silver Crown. 

Dinner at Dreamers again, watching the very busy beach. Being Sunday, the locals were out in force enjoying the sea breezes. All appeared very well behaved, just being out and social. The beach is huge so it does not appear totally over-crowded. Dinner was good.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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India - Goa to Kochi and Alleppy (15)



Averina Beach, Goa - stunning resort!

Sadly, our last day at Averina Beach, Goa. The rain, which has been very co-operative so far, is now saying "don't go"! The hotel is very busy now with 2 conferences and an Indian wedding on Saturday. It seems that this becomes a very noisy affair so just as well we are leaving although I would have loved to witness an Indian wedding in India.

The drive to the airport is so slow, with many speed breakers in the road, plenty of twists and turns and the inevitable two wheelers (scooters)
We arrived early so could check out seat numbers. Our cases were over-weight so the check-in chap suggested that we put some extra things into our hand luggage. Quite a performance this was in the airport but we managed to shuffle things around so that they accepted our bags without forfeit of IR2500.

It is rather crazy that Jet Airlines expect international travellers to only have 15 kgs of luggage. Lesson - check the fine print BEFORE buying the ticket!

Goa airport is a very busy spot. Located on 2 floors with not much to do, watching the planes takes on a life of it's own. No photography is allowed of the exterior areas so we could not video this live action! I did spot quite a number of Indians taking photos with their cell phones though. Admittedly, the notice is rather small - I had not noticed it but James is always aware of these things as he goes thru so much security whilst travelling in West Africa.

What was totally fascinating was watching the planes landing and taking off as a road crosses the runway!! The boom goes down and the traffic has to come to  halt while the planes land or take-off. Once the plane is out of the way, the boom is opened again and the two wheelers go zooming along. It's the funniest sight to watch and certainly made the time pass quickly while waiting for our flight.

The first flight was 50 minutes - by the time they have reached their altitude, it is time to start descending again. This plane started descended ages before landing - not pleasant. The 2nd flight to Kochi was only 40 mins! Luckily, the plane did not go too high so the flight was good.

The driver was waiting for us with a tiny car. One of the bags had to go on the roof - luckily, it was not raining! The drive to Panoramic Sea Resort is 90 km and it takes 2 very long hours! The traffic is crazy, the drivers are far more rash than even in Mumbai and we saw 2 accidents along the way. First accidents in 2 weeks. Kochi at night looks very modern with large, new looking buildings. Many have streamers of light hanging down in various colours so it looks like early Christmas. We passed loads of beautiful furniture shops, new car showrooms, enormous electronic shops with washing machines etc, gyms, clothing stores, brightly lit and clean looking restaurants and supermarkets. Unfortunately, we came to the end of this eventually and entered into an area more like the India we have come to know - tiny, roadside shops and not much else.

Although the driving is so very bad and they all drive as if they are totally drunk, there is a very strict "No Drunk Driving" law and drivers are breathalysed at traffic lights!!! The mind boggles - with such bad and dangerous drivers on the road, other measures should be in place regarding safety, in my humble opinion.

We eventually reached the hotel and were shown into a tiny room which was awful. We asked for a change and received another of the same size but marginally better. Supposedly partial self-catering, their is not a plate or knife and fork anywhere to be seen. The location is just opposite the beach so the beach road is busy - thankfully, traffic did stop during the night! We ordered some Kingfishers and Spring Rolls and were sitting on the porch enjoying these when a beggar came to the fence and just stood staring at us. He would not budge so James went to call Security who chased him away.

For the first time, there are Tuk-Tuk's outside the hotel so I think we will try one at some stage. Although how we will manage to stay in this room for 2 weeks, I have no clue! Only Gold Crown Resorts for us in future - this is supposedly Silver Crown??? 2 star maybe - which is not my choice of accommodation!

One thing I have to mention here is the fact that the staff are extremely pleasant, willing to assist and so friendly. In all the chaos of the luggage unpacking at the airport, James managed to lose his key for his case! "I always keep it in my laptop bag, dear, so why must you put it with your keys?" is the stock answer I always get. My keys are in a little drawstring pouch, inside my bag - safe and sound. But no, men must do their own thing so he ended up at 21.30 hrs with no keys to his suitcase!!! Just a little thing to add to the stress of the day.....

The resort made James sign before they would break open his lock this morning but it is now unlocked so he can take his pills and put on clean clothes!

Let's see what the rest of the day brings......

Breakfast OK but nowhere near as good as Averina Beach! However, it filled the hole and we then wandered off with cameras to Alleppy Beach. The beach is huge, there is litter in places but not all over and our eyes nearly popped out of our heads when we saw camels on the beach! There is just no way I am getting onto a camel but there were some takers. Camels on a beach - anything goes in India it seems and there is a surprise around every corner. We also came upon a "shoot" - a couple standing in the water with 2 guys taking photo's. He did tell me what they were doing but I still don't know what he said. I am finding the Indian accent very difficult here in Kerala which is not good. Anyway, we joined in by taking photo's of the couple, all beautifully dressed in red. Perhaps pre-wedding or after wedding? Further down there was another couple but they only had one camera man - he must be somewhat cheaper? They all seem to take pictures of their feet and then them walking away.

Unfortunately, one cannot swim at this beach as it is too dangerous with a strong undertow.

The ladies are very colourful and walk with sun umbrellas which we sorely needed. The sky is blue and it's hot. We wandered further to the fishing boats but eventually had to turn around as we were both ready to melt. Talk about lobster red faces. Back at the hotel, a cold beer whilst sitting on the cool veranda went down a treat. Even just watching the passing traffic is interesting.

The pool is sort of 3/4 full - don't ask me why and it's as warm as a bath. Anyway, we enjoyed a swim and then time for a nap in the heat of the day.

Supper time loomed so we went down the road to Dreamers Restaurant. Up very narrow stairs to the top floor with a view of the beach.

Lovely cool breeze and mosquito bites! The waiter brought us some spray - how is that for service? The food - simply delicious. I enjoyed a vegetarian dish with amazing sauce and James raved about his Chicken Masala. Some "Special Tea" to compliment the food, is served in a large mug!!! Hope to get down the stairs in one piece again. There were 2 Australian ladies and an Indian couple with a small child. Otherwise the restaurant was quiet. Excellent service from a waiter who loves his soccer and was sporting a number 11 jersey.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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India - Goa (14)

We have been very lucky to visit Goa "out of season" as we have experienced lovely Indian dishes at Averina Beach Resort/Holiday Inn, Goa.
At the moment, there are only a handful of Westerners staying here - most of the guests are Indian which makes for a far more authentic experience food-wise. During the season from November, no Indians stay here - Brits, Russians, Europeans etc so the food changes to more Continental.

After breakfast, we headed down the road with our cameras to view the many fishing boats on the River Sal. There must be hundreds of these on this river, some bigger than others. We saw one coming back, listing to port quite badly. The Coast Guard Navy ship stopped them and climbed on board. We don't know why - for the fish catch check or for a safety check? They were on board for quite awhile but then let them carry on to moor further upriver. This road has a number of restaurants, such as Fisherman's Wharf. We also passed a very rustic type of lodging in huts - looks interesting but the standard of hygiene in the preparation of the food would worry me!

There were a few very modern and well-kept houses plus the "shack" type dwellings. Everybody seems to live happily together. Although the owner of Bryson's had warned us about the stray dogs, we did not encounter any problems. Skin and bone with ribs showing, they look extremely unhappy.

James also spotted a snake, with a mouse in it's mouth, thinking that I would scream and freak, he kept quiet! I saw it just as it was slithering into the
bushes. Long and black, I must try and find out if the snakes here are poisonous. Creepy!! Don't venture off the road!!

We were caught in a minor rain shower just as we headed back to the hotel. With high humidity today, the pool is calling as soon as I finish this blog.

Reading the local papers is always so interesting and here are some snippets from today's 3rd October 2013:

CCP impounds 226 stray cattle since June.
The City of Panaji states that there are nearly 2000 stray cattle in the state and since the implementation of the scheme 4 months ago, 226 cattle have been impounded. Impounding only takes place between 6 pm and 6 am so as not to cause further traffic disruption.

On our tour the other day, we passed a new athletic stadium which is being built for the 2014 Lusofonia Games.  Floodlights have just been installed.

Apparently, 2200 Goans have been deleted from the Voters Roll as they have acquired foreign passports.

I say get the Indian Police to South Africa - a truck driver who collects waste, found a red beacon on the dump. He thought this would be great for his truck so he attached it to the top of his cab. Nope - even though it was not working, it is NOT allowed so his vehicle was attached by the police. Only Cabinet Ministers and high ranking officials many use a beacon on their vehicles. Poor guy - such a minor offence.

Sand Ban destroying poor man's dream home:
There is a total ban on sand extraction and transportation in Goa currently thereof so building a small house is becoming a problem.

Influx of Nigerians into Siolim give locals reason to worry:
Nigerians are willing to pay higher rent and they are accused of bringing in drugs so locals are not happy. It seems that the entire drug Mafia is now in Siolim. Most are living in India on either expired or forged passports.

33% of slum population have no basic facilities:
Many slums remain unrecognised by the Indian Government. These people live in unhygienic conditions without proper sanitation or drinking water.
One in five persons is from the "scheduled caste"

India will be the most populace nation by 2050:
A new French study has revealed that India will overtake China as the world's most populous nation by 2050.
Current stats are as follows:
China = 1.3 billion people
India = 1.2 billion people
US = 316.2 million people
then Indonesia and Brazil.

Leaders are also very much against legalising prostitution and have closed down "massage parlours" in places.
"We don't want Goa to be a hub for criminals,racketeers, drug-peddlars and gamblers"
Well done, I say.

I love the Indian newspapers - they are informative, interesting and not all doom and gloom. A wonderful read.

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India - Goa (12/13)

A lazy day is called for today - time to chill and just enjoy the whispering palms, the swish of the waves and the cooling breeze.

After a hearty breakfast and the blog typed up, we donned the swimming costumes and headed down the beach. At low tide, there is hard sand to walk on so its easy walking. We walked all the way to the river mouth - about 2 km - and then around the bend to see all the fishing boats moored along the river. The smell of fish was overpowering so perhaps they dry them here? Once again, there is not much tourist info of the area from Holiday Inn/Averina beach.

On the way back, we chose a shallow pool of water which had a sand bank further out so we figured it was safe to wet our bodies as we would bounce off the sandbank if the current decided to catch us! The water of the Arabian Sea is like a bath - so very warm. It was really just a dip in shallow water as we have been warned about the rip and the sea was pretty stormy. Walking back, cooled down, was most pleasant.

The pool then beckoned and we had some cool R&R in the stunning pool. Everybody is so well behaved that it is a pleasure taking a dip. We have also been doing some exercises in the pool - more activity than we ever get at home! Today is fairly cool so we even felt chilly after our afternoon swim - believe it or not!

Time for those Kingfishers so off we went across the road to our wine shop, Bryson's Stores. The owner works till late at night with a short lunch break. He also stays open all year round so says there is no time for jiggy-jigg!! However, with 3 kids, he managed to squeeze in a few moments somewhere! It's a tiny little shop with everything one could possibly need and we wish him all the best for his dedication and very long working hours.

The chugging of the fishing boats going back to the river, the sound of the waves, the continual squawking of the crows, the swaying palm trees, all make for a relaxing and enjoyable Kingfisher before our supper!

It seems that 1st October heralds the end of the Monsoon season. The farmers are looking forward to harvesting a bumper crop, Goa is looking forward to a bumper tourist season with increased hotel tariffs, the heavy plastic drapes have been removed from the upstairs lobby today and the guy playing the sax started in the restaurant tonight! The air is much cooler today so let's see what tomorrow brings?

My body is feeling a little overdone from the sun but what the heck - we are escaping the last of the Cape winter!

What can I say - we have become total blobs and have spent the day at the pool, lounging on the loungers with our Kindles.

At one stage, after coming back from the loo, I could not find my glasses so I freaked. What have you done with my glasses, I shouted at James.
Astounded, he shouted back at me "They are on your head, dear!" Shows how much one loses brain power lazing around all day long. But it is delicious to do this sometimes instead of always dashing around the place. Of course, in India, one cannot dash anywhere so the slow pace takes hold. Give it up and just go with the flow. My independent streak has taken a knock in this country having to be so reliant on either taxi's or public transport. In many places the "cheap" tuk-tuks are not available. This is not a bad thing as they would just cause more chaos on the already chaotic roads.

Having said that, today's paper had a report on 2 deaths of 2 wheeler drivers (scooters) in separate incidents in Goa within one week. One week? The public were so incensed that they blockaded the road where the one accident happened and it had to be closed for a spell. This tells me that despite the crazy driving on India's roads, the drivers know how to cope with the traffic most times and obviously have some sort of secret code to keep total mayhem from disintegrating into death and destruction. Hats of to Indian drivers, I say.

Whilst there are many reports of crime, rape, prostitution and corruption in India, these are vividly reported and most of the culprits are apprehended.
Some official even had to spend a night in an Indian jail and complained bitterly about the mosquitoes and even worse, the bedbugs!!! It seems that prisoners have been complaining about the bedbugs for nearly 2 years - now something will be done to eradicate the little pests. Can you imagine being so hellishly itchy all day, every day with no respite from the tiny terrors? Enough to put one off crime for life. Introduce them to more prisons? Maybe they will do what society fails to do - keep crime off the streets. Hope springs eternal????

Passports are also a problem in India it seems - police are supposed to verify the applicant's residential address and this is taking up to 79 days instead of 21 days. False passports are also an issue here. Problems the world over these days appear to be much of a muchness - just in varying degrees.

On a lighter note, I love the Chile Limon Lays Chips - when can we have these in South Africa? PLEASE?
"Wicked chilli and naughty lime come together in an irresistibly tangy flavour. Make your moments magical with the all new Lay's Chili Limon that lets your playful side loose" says the ad on the packet. Not too spicy but of so tasty, say I!

Today (2nd October) is a celebration of Ghandi's birthday so it is a "dry" day in India - meaning that no alcohol may be sold from shops - but we still have the hotel mini bar to fall back on for that thirst-quenching Kingfisher.

If anybody has the tempting idea of retiring in Goa, this is possible, at a price.
For instance, take the Bougainvilla Hermitage Retirement Village in "Magical Goa" The following facilities are on offer:
Health-care Infirmary, Ambulance Service, Wheel Chair Elevators, Senior-Friendly Fittings, Yoga, spa, gym, Prayer Hall, Library, Swimming Pool and best of all, round the clock security. Situated in an "eco-friendly" village it sounds to good to be true??? I love the idea of "Senior Friendly" fittings - the mind boggles as to what exactly is meant here?
This does exist - I have not made it up - see www.bougainvilla-hermitage.com

Back to the beach scene which is Goa's most famous asset. From where we are right at the south side of the long beach, one could walk and walk and walk. The beaches down south are huge and very clean but do have rip-tides so take care.

Thankfully, smoking in public places is prohibited in Goa - this was my worst fear, that we would be surrounded by many smokers! Thankfully, it has not happened so far on this trip. Even in Mumbai, smoking was not an issue.

So, India is growing on me slowly - just wish we could drive here - it would make it far more interesting and adventurous!!!!

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India - Goa - (11)

Monsoon season is not yet finished and the rains were very heavy during the night, leaving pools of water on the beautifully manicured lawns of the Holiday Inn/Averina Resort, Goa. It is no wonder that Goa is a malaria risk area, heavy rains, high humidity, rivers and lakes. Fabulous breeding ground for the mosquitoes!

As usual, breakfast is a feast. Besides my English Breakfast tea and omelette every day, I try at least one Indian dish with breakfast. What is so amazing is the huge variety that is on offer - something different every day. The Indians also love their eggs so there is always a queue at this counter. The chefs are so fast and so good at making perfect omelette's right in front of you.

Our tour today is with the Holiday Inn bus to Mangueshi Temple, Old Goa and Colva Beach.

We started off at 14.00 hrs with a very full bus - again, we are the only Westerners aboard. It is great to see so many Indians enjoying their own country which is so vast that it could take up many holidays in different parts.

This ride was an experience in itself - bone-shaking, rattling, creaking and groaning, the bus struggled up the hills in first gear and very seldom reached full speed. Being high up we could see all the small settlements/villages as we passed and, always, hundreds of scooters darting in and out of the traffic. Many drivers without helmets. Today we saw larger houses in very bright colours scattered amongst the more squalid looking ones. Bright yellow, purple, orange, lime green and red are popular colours and stand out in the greenery which is everywhere in Goa. There appears to be new construction of apartment blocks (called Residency) in quite a number of areas so the economy can't be too poor for the construction industry. In some of the areas there are large. modern complexes which stand out, being so Western looking and clean.

At the start of the journey the passengers were very vocal but we could not understand a word of what they were talking about. Gradually, silence descended which was most odd. Looking back, we found that virtually the entire bus load had fallen asleep! Peace and quiet for a spell. Not that we minded the chatter, they were all enjoying themselves and on holiday, after all!

As we chugged along, we took to spotting names or signs along the way as we were still wide awake!!

Tobacco Free School
Infant Jesus Laundry
Papa Joe's Goan Restaurant
Ferrao Ice Factory
Chapel of Glorious Saint Sebastian

In Sirlim:
Royal Lush Family Restaurant, Wee Wonder Kindergarten, Watch Repairer and Repairer of Two Wheelers

Other Villages:
St Francis Xavier Chapel
Dream Skyline Residency
Be Happy Caterers
Angels Primary School
Rosary High School
Mum's Darlings (Child care)
Top Gear Bar and Restaurant - do you think James May, Richard Hammond and  Jeremy Clarkson have visited this pub during their Indian visit?
Walk In Hotel
Are We G-Oan Out - Pub
Janki Wine Store
Eco Friendly Putty that prevents your paint from flaking - they sure do need this in the rain and humidity.
Right Fuel is your Right - seen at a Petrol Station
Just Inn Bar and Restaurant
Adam and Eve - a  place for all occasions - the mind boggles and one has to wonder what goes on here?
Divine Medical Centre
Drive slowly - accident prone zone - ya right!!!

It seems that our bus does not have indicators as the guide needs to stick his arm out of the window to indicate when we are turning left or when asking somebody behind to slow down. Just ahead of us was a lorry and the co-driver has his door wide open - Indian Air-Con? He did eventually close the door when they passed another vehicle. At the back of most trucks there is a sign saying "Horn Please" So they expect one to hoot at them? Seems so.

Cows in the middle of the road are commonplace - how they do not get run over is beyond me. These cows also seem to be lying down much of the time - not grazing and chewing the cud. So they are either too well fed or have no energy to move? Only very load honking horns seem to get them up and off the road.

Goa has many dogs, all look totally ill and underfed, many have their ribs clearly defined. Very sad to see.

After about an hour or so, we reached the Mangueshi Temple. This Hindu temple is over 400 years old and is dedicated to the goddess Shiva. In the car park there were many buses and also a State Bank ATM - a blue bus parked and waiting for people to draw money. The road to the temple is lined with small shops selling clothing, trinkets, snacks etc. It is also very filthy with litter scattered all over. This is despite a sign at the temple asking for Silence and "Maintain Cleanliness"  The ladies outside sell the offerings meant for the gods of flowers in banana leaves at 10 Rupees.

Before entering the temple, shoes must come off and one has to walk barefoot into the temple. In the temple, the half-naked, fat men (no tops) are sitting cross-legged and doing their prayers and blessing the followers by giving them some "water" which they put to their mouths and then they throw it over their heads. No photos are allowed inside the temple.

We were watching this when a chap asked us where we were from and offered to show us something as he was a "priest of the temple" He took us outside to a large, wooden carving but I have no clue what he said it was. He then proceeded to tell us that:
We would expand our business
I would receive promotion - yeah, I can promote myself at long last!!!!!
We would move to a new house in April
Our children would all become very successful in 2014 - I think all 4 between us are already pretty successful.
We would return to India in 8 months time!!!
He professed to "see" things when talking to people as he was a priest.

By now feeling hood-winked, it came as no surprise when he asked for money. I have my doubts that he was even a priest, just some local looking for gullible tourists to con. The men in the temple are all rather large - this guy was dressed in normal clothes and skinny!!!
Oh well, I suppose everybody gets conned at some stage in India - we will be more careful next time.

What did really make me mad was the state of the place - for a temple that is supposed to be very holy, it is surrounded by filth and litter so how can this possibly be of any value to anybody? Surely, it would not take much to employ a few cleaners to pick up the litter strewn around outside by the Indian tourists? The mess just gives off bad vibes. One would also think that anybody visiting would want to make this a holy place and cleanliness is next to godliness? Or does this not apply to Hindu temples? Sad to see.

Our next stop was Old Goa - again hundreds of buses and tourists. This was the Portuguese capital of Goa - today the churches and cathedrals are all that remains. The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi was built in 1521 and looks very imposing. We only had time to visit the Basilica of Born Jesus where the remains of Saint Frances Xavier are preserved. He was a missionary and the Patron Saint of Goa. Born in Spain 7th April 1506 at the Castle of Xavier. He was a brilliant student and excelled at sports.  He later became a priest and after journeying for 13 months, he arrived in Goa in 1542. He undertook many hazardous journeys whilst preaching and died on 3rd December 1552.

Before entering the grounds of the church, one is again accosted by women selling candles. I was offered candles so accepted them and walked off!
The lady came tearing after me telling me that I had to pay her. They are very shrewd, these people. Anyway, I handed the candles back amidst her voluble protests that I needed to pay! The grounds of this church are immaculate and clean - a major difference from the Hindu Temple seen earlier. Restoration of some sort is in progress and this is now a Heritage site.

Back in the bus, we shook, rattled and rolled onwards towards Colva beach.
On the way, we spotted the following:

Drive with Care, life has no Spare
Driving Rash causes Crash
Don't be a Hell Mate, wear a Helmet
There were more of these signs on a large bridge that we drove over but the driver had a good speed going so could not write them all down!

Passing a railway line, we spotted some people walking right on the tracks - one hopes that they have the train times in their heads to get out of the way!

As we started on a minor road towards Colva, the "Speed Breaker"  humps are back in full force. So irritating to slow down every few yards for a Speed Breaker. Our bus is unable to break the speed limit which seems to be 50 km per hour for 2 Wheelers (Scooters), 70 kms per hour for cars and 60 km per hour for Commercial Vehicles. I wish!

However, it seems that there are accidents as we passed the Paediatric Neuro Centre along the way. There are many kids being carried on 2 wheelers, most without helmets. There was a huge Dental College and also a Signal Corp Army base along the way plus My Eye Hospital and Clint Restaurant.

Billboards are all over, they are huge and advertise Milk, Insurance, Housing Products and Jewelry.

As we got closer to Colva Beach, shops were lining the road on both sides. The parking area at the beach was again packed with buses. Unfortunately, it was now rather late and the light was fading so we could only take a very short stroll the the beach which was full of people, staring at the sea. A large Life Guard building = busy beach! This beach is apparently a huge favourite with local Indian travellers and gets even busier during October month when many pilgrims come to visit Colva Church. One of the Indian guys wanted a HOUR here. Bummer for us as the light was gone so a walk on the beach was out of the question and we were not too taken with the many shops around as we are watching our budget!

There are loads of food stalls, ice-cream vendors, plus fancier jewelry shops that offer Credit Card facilities, pubs etc but we abstained from everything.
A beer would have gone down a treat but the bladder would not have been too happy afterwards in the "shake, rattle and roll" bus and I refuse to use local toilets.

There were many scooters available "Motor Bikes On Rent" and the Black and Yellow Colva "Auto Rickshaw Stand"

The cleanest looking restaurant I saw was affiliated to a hotel!

A local chap, also on the bus, started chatting to us. He lives in New Delhi and is employed by an American company in Reno, Nevada. He was telling us that he had recently visited Johannesburg on business and visited the Gandi Museum there. Being paid in USD makes life very pleasant in India I would say! We have to admit that we would never be able to walk/move around so freely in South Africa as we have been able to do in India. The folk are pleasant, honesty seems high on the list of priorities and even the beggars/hawkers have a smile on their faces when you say No.

Get the place cleaned up and it would certainly be a wonderful country. Even with the honking horns and traffic!!

A great day out - who needs rock and roll music when you can enjoy the Holiday Inn "Shake, Rattle and Roll" Bus???

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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