India - Mumbai (5)

Now we head for the Prince of Wales Museum to "try" and soak up some culture.
Yeh right - it is difficult but nothing ventured, nothing gained. The taxi fare of 100 Rupees (most probably a rip-off!) got us to the door of the museum just as the rain came down.



We waited under shelter, like idiots, as nobody told us that there were umbrellas to use to reach the entrance.

The museum has 3 floors of art collections such as Nepal-Tibet, Krishna, Chinese and Japanese, European paintings, sculpture, weapons, coins etc.

The foundation stone was laid by Prince of Wales (later KIng George V) in 1905 and is a heritage building and landmark of South Mumbai.The museum opened to the public on Jan 10, 1922 wit various collections plus the Sir Ratan Tata bequest. The Tata family are well-known and very wealthy - Tata vehicles are even available in South Africa.

The Natural History section is superb, spoilt only by a group of Primary (Called High School) kids who were sooooo noisy we could not even hear our audio head phones. They were all very smartly dressed in uniform, with name tags and photos, all wearing sandals but, oh my goodness, what alot of chatter at the top of their voices. The teacher telling them to be quiet had absolutely NO effect! Even the museum chap tried to move them along....he did not succeed. Rather a pity that such smartly dressed kids from obviously wealthy backgrounds can be so disobedient when all the signs say "Silence Please" We had to wait for them to leave to enjoy the exhibits.

Have you ever seen a "saw" fish? It's the most amazing looking sea creature with a huge saw in front of it's body. Don't think I would like to encounter one of those in the ocean! Forget the magician trick of sawing somebody in half, this would be the real deal!

Indian 1 Horn Rhino's also faced near extinction until measures were taken to increase the population. The conservation program in India and in South Africa (White Rhino) are mentioned here for their efforts in saving these magnificent animals.

We found the history of Karl Khandalavala most interesting. A lawyer by profession, he became an Indian Art Collector and had close links with the Prince of wales Museum. He was asked to source art for the museum and then stopped collection for his own use. He was also a great photographer and one numerous awards. His collection is now in the gallery where he spent many a Saturday afternoon, such was his love of the arts.

A video in the Prechand Roychand gallery was totally fascinating as it showed the history of the art of painting for mobile temples. This huge painting is taken from village to village. Today this art form includes words and more colours than the originals - however, it needs to be preserved for future generations.

We decided to walk back so that we could get some exercise and experience the noise of Mumbai again!!!!! The noise is so invasive that I can't even concentrate on taking interesting photos of people, cars, shops etc that we pass. It's all encompassing noise that assaults the senses to such a degree that one walks like a zombie! There is nothing like this anywhere in Europe, USA, SA and certainly not in New Zealand (peace and quiet!!) or law-abiding Australia. There are no rules of the road and most roads are packed, with truly only about a centimetre of space between cars or bodies. How there are not more accidents, I have no clue. Apparently, in the monsoon season there are many accidents - thankfully, for my sanity, the rain is no longer too much. Whew!

We had hoped hoped to see the Kala Ghoda Pavement Art which is on either side of the Jehangir Art Gallery but this is closed until October ( after the Monsoon Season) I suppose no self-respecting artist would want his/her work ruined by the rain?

As we did not find the Colaba Causeway on our Saturday outing, we decided to walk back to via this route. These stalls of full of cheap trinkets and clothing and quite claustrophobic. We did buy an elephant for 300 rupees for my elephant collection at home. Gorgeous and ornate, he will rule the other elephants when he gets back to South Africa! The beggars all seem to be women with children, sitting on the pavement. I was eventually tempted to use rather strong African swear words - just the fact that they did not understand these, seemed to have an effect! I won't repeat them here!

Although the Internet reckons that the area around the President Hotel is not so safe we have found all the areas so far to be hassle free. Wherever we have walked there has been no problem even though we stand out like sore thumbs - white faces and with a Nikon camera slung around my neck! Many of the buildings look like total slums, yet they are not. It's a crazy place, a noisy place and the Indians themselves are all over, shopping, eating, buying and driving.

We spotted a Driving School called "Good Luck" - yep, I think the bumps and scratches on the car are testimony to the crazy driving in Mumbai and India. Quite frankly, I would think that no license is required - nothing could equip one for driving in this country - hence the fact that foreigners are not allowed to hire a car without a driver. Driving in India, without being born in this country, would be the fastest way to voluntary suicide.

Indians, please come to South Arica - you will LOVE the way we drive - we don't hoot very often, we tend to obey most of the rules of the road and we can be very polite!!! Capetonians, your driving is SUPERB - I love you all!!!!!

Our laundry arrived, delivered in a briefcase and with cardboard in the t-shirts. Service!!!!! Singita Lebombo, a fantastic hotel in the Kruger Park of South Africa,  can learn a few tricks from the Taj Group! Joking - Singita is very special and our memories there will never fade.

For our evening meal, we decided to catch a taxi to Leopolds - famous in Mumbai. This is right in the Colaba Causeway area and was packed with locals and a few Westerners. The menu is under the glass on the table so sometimes you have to read upside down. The noise is incredible as the buzz of conversation competes with the honking horns in the road outside. If you are in the mood for a romantic dinner, this is not the place to be. If you want tasty food at a reasonable price, then it IS the place to be. Our waiter was very helpful and I decided on a vegetable curry called Makhanwala  while James chose Butter Chicken. Served with some Naan Bread, it was delicious. Leopolds also serves huge "tower of beer" at 1400 IR - needless to say, we stuck to a glass each at 180 IR! No need to fall over in Mumbai! The cakes and desserts are scrumptious - the Chocolate Ecstasy was just that - so rich that I could barely finish it, despite James stealing a few mouthfuls.

There were plenty of taxi's outside so we opted for one that said 80 IR (the fare we paid to get to the restaurant)
At our destination, James handed over a 100 note and was told "no change" So he counted out his smaller notes and made 60 which he then offered the driver. Suddenly, change of 20 miraculously appeared! We were not impressed by this tactic - however, only fair to say that this has happened to us whilst taking a taxi to Cape Town airport so it is obviously a ploy used by taxi drivers world-wide. Why they would want to annoy their fares to such an extent, is beyond me. Mind you, in Mumbai you never get the same driver - this last one was extremely surly and spoils the good experience that we have enjoyed from others in this city.

The streets at night are even more crazy it seems than during the day with far more people walking, riding and just being out and about. We even saw a gent sitting on the pavement having his ears cleaned by another. How gross is that? Funnily enough, I have only seen one taxi driver open
his door and spit! Even more gross!

On that note, back to our cool, clean hotel room......to read the latest in the Indian Newspapers:

The Mumbai Mirror, the Bombay Times and the Times of India are delivered to our room daily. They make interesting reading and show us that problems are really world-wide and so is good news.

Some snippets:
Armed with lathi, constable beats back 10 train robbers
In a first, chemist is booked for not having pharmacist!
Ragpicker stumbles upon woman's partial remains near sea link
Free Seminars across the city to help students study in USA
Rehearsing teens spark real dram on Marine Drive ( this happened across from the Inter-Continental Hotel where the Pakistan Judicial Commission is staying!!)
Study: Drug-resistant TB in city air, families clear yet kids affected.
Irrespective of faith, 12 year old cannot be wife.
Grad steals mobile, blackmails owner - love this one - in SA they just re-sell them at bargain prices!
Wheelchair bound Deepa Malik (43) will cover 2000 km across 6 states in 10 days in a car designed by students from Sathyabama University, Chennai
If you fail to plan, you are planning to fail. "Keep it simple, stupid" Kiss Principle

Ad - 2 months later, 7 kilos lighter and a plan that finally worked. SMS Slim to .......!
Ad - Get going in your own Innova for a perfect holiday (Toyota)
Ad - 30,000 cars sold, 30,000 lived changed - Honda

You have guessed - it is raining today so more time to read these fascinating glimpses into Indian life in Mumbai.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Mumbai (4)



Mumbai from Marine Drive

05.30 and disaster.....we have all heard of the song "Beds are Burning" Well, my b.. was burning! Obviously, the tummy did not enjoy the delicious Thai flavours quite as much as my palate did!! So a very basic breakfast for me at 09.30 in the hopes that the unruly tum would settle down as we hope to explore at least one market today.....

Meanwhile, reading the "Times of India" is a worthwhile way to pass the time.

Forget about Car Pools - a Mumbai resident has a Helicopter Pool. After 12 years of leaving home at 06.00 and only getting back by 23.00 at night, he discovered that he could get enough folk together to share a chopper. Innovative thinking from a 45 yr old Chemical Engineer. Needless to say, he owns the factory but still - imagine having work hours that long? Not for me thanks!

As my tummy problem was more a reaction to all those delectable Thai spices, I swallowed an Imodium and off we set for our next adventure. The hotel cab dropped us off at the Crawford Market. Taking our lives in our hands, we crossed the street and entered the market to be accosted by a "guide" who showed us his official badge and told us that he had to escort us around the market! He stated that his services were free so we obediently followed.

The Crawford Market was built in the days of the British Raj. Named after Arthur Crawford, this market is still a very much part of South Mumbai life and teems with local people. The fresh fruit and veg all look very tempting and there were many types of fruits that we did not recognise. The stalls sell anything from chocolates, biscuits, plastic ware, toiletries, and a stunning array of spices from the Spice King - just about anything and everything one could wish for.
spicekingmumbai@yahoo.com

Pay them a visit - it will be worth your while!

There is also a meat market which we did not visit and then the pet market which is rather depressing - hundreds of birds in cages, geese, canaries, love birds, small puppies, wagging their tails in the hope of finding a good home, beautiful kittens, quail (for the pot, I assume!) fish in tanks etc.

It's a kaleidoscope of colour, an overload of people and no Westerners except us and a Dutch couple travelling the world (Europe, India, China and whatever else takes their fancy) Young and free, they did not have a guide! We were then told to cross the road - death staring us in the face! There are so many stalls in this area, that it is hard to take it all in. Artificial flowers are absolutely stunning but would get crushed in a suitcase. How everybody makes a living is beyond me but I suppose they all do. There were people sewing suitcases, making juice from something that looked like sugar cane or bamboo,  men staring, others smiling, most thinking we are crazy tourists!! Which we are!

After walking for ages through all this chaos, we decided to take a taxi to Marine Drive to breathe some sea air and relative quiet! If you have never driven in a local cab in this mayhem, you are totally missing the point of Mumbai. It is TOTAL MAYHEM and far worse than anything you could ever see on TV. Hooting is the name of the game, anything and everything goes from guys with baskets on their heads (local Courier service!!) to animals pulling goods, to parents with 3 kids on a scooter, to people walking in amongst this mess, to guys with loaded wagons and many, many taxis! 50 thousand of them apparently, all living by their horns!!! Hang on as you progress slowly, then have a burst of speed, only to brake and nearly go thru the windscreen! It has to be seen to be believed, the noise is incredible and just does not stop. In fact, I think I have to say that it is worse than Manhattan, New York. In the traffic jams, anything and everything goes - no rules apply - it is each man for himself!

With a sigh of relief, we reached Marine Drive and some cooling sea breezes. This is a very long drive so we could only walk part of it. There were many students also catching the sea breeze and perhaps a little cuddling away from parents eyes!

Even though the traffic was free flowing along this area, the hooting continues - just for the hell of it! Perhaps the Indians are not all born with a silver spoon, so they have a hand that simply loves the horn and it's blaring sound! The drive is 4.3 km long, with C  shaped 6 lane concrete lanes along the natural bay. The road links Nariman Point to Babulnath and Malabar Hill. The sea breeze was most welcome and the litter was not TOO much! In fact, we did see somebody picking up litter hence the fact that this area is not so dirty. Malabar Hill has the most expensive real estate in Mumbai it seems with a recent sale at Darshan Apartments reaching a new high. This apartment has 3 floors, 4 bedrooms, attached terraces, a covered garage of 700 sq feet and the unit is 3510 sq ft. The price of 57 crore is huge (1 crore = 10 million rupees)

We walked as far as Chowpatty Beach. This beach is huge and I would not like to be there when it gets packed with people. Seething masses are not my favourite! Besides Juhu beach, Chowpatty is Mumbai's most famous beach and comes alive at night when family's descend on this area. During the day it was not so busy although there were a number of kids having a swim. The fishermen were hauling a boat up the beach with military precision and it seems as if they live in shacks on the beach. After a very long walk, we caught a cab back to Cuffs Parade for 100 Rupees. Most probably a rip-off as the distance was not great.

We are total plebs, so we wandered down the road again to find some more Kingfishers - 100 Rupees each for 650 ml against 225 Rupees for 200 ml in the bar fridge in our room. As we have to go thru security every time we enter the building, they must think we are really not 5 star quality guests!!!!! Love the comfort, don't like the prices!!

We also wanted to see Fashion Street today as we passed this yesterday - however, it seems the stalls are closed on Mondays so too bad!

A great day out and a true Mumbai local experience. Mixing with the locals in areas where there are truly no Westerners, has been incredible and awesome experience.

The legs are tired, the body needs a shower but what a great day out!

Tonight we decided on "safe" food - chicken and veg with choc mud pie desserts. Boring, but hopefully my silly tum-tum will behave. Mind you, we are drinking buffalo milk with our tea - 50,000 buffaloes supply approx. 750,000 litres of fresh milk daily to Mumbai. Housed in Buffalo Tabelas (cowsheds) the smell is apparently over-powering and there are moves afoot to re-locate these.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Mumbai (3)



Mumbai from Marine Drive

Humidity 83% at 28 degrees - welcome to the day!

We made breakfast on time today!! The service from the Indian male staff  opted  at  Taj President is superb - lovely fresh croissants, divine spicy tea served in a tiny glass, eggs or Indian food to order, fresh fruit, fresh juices (watermelon, carrot or pineapple) various breads toasted, plus much more. We could not sample everything - too much!

After our long and very hot walk yesterday, we opted for a half day City Tour. Air conditioned comfort and a very informative driver. With a population of 19 million in Mumbai ( yep, you read the figure correctly, 19 million!!!) it is a crowded city. Those in the higher income bracket have at least one car per person in the family with maybe a spare. So a 5 person family would most likely have 6 cars. Those not so rich use either public transport or have motor cycles. The really poor  just walk. The family who own the Reliance company (oil and Sim Cards) have 5 family members with staff of 130. Their home is very high so one imagines that there is cleaning and more cleaning to be done! Can't say that I would like to be surrounded by so many staff? They would be under your feet at every turn!

Mumbai is a mixture of old and new - some stunning, modern high rises which nestle alongside some really grotty buildings. It's an amazing mix and adds to the flavour of the city. The Rajabhai Clock Tower has an interesting history - built by Premchand Roychand who founded the Mumbai Stock Exchange, he named this clock tower after his mother who was blind. As a member of the Jain religion, she had to eat before evening, so the chiming of the clock tower was her guide. During the British Raj, the clock chimed Rule Brittania, God Save the King, Home Sweet Home and a Handel Symphony out of a total of 16 tunes which changed 4 times a day. Now it only plays one tune every 15 minutes. This clock tower is within the are of the University of Mumbai - gorgeous buildings inspired by Venetian Gothic influences, it was built in 1857 and is one of the first 3 universities in India.

Jain Temples are very ornate and the one we visited in Mumbai had two massive elephant statues in front of the temple. One has to take off shoes to enter the building and there are rules for tourists such as:
Women may not enter if they have their "monthlies"
Do not turn your back to the idols
Walk gently so as not to disturb the devotees
Surrender your drinking water.

It is a holy place with many devout people praying so silence is the norm.
There are many religions in India - Hindu is the majority, then Muslim and the rest follow - Buddhism, Christian, Catholic, Jain (in no particular order)
All appear to get on well together which is as it should be in the world.

The Haji Ali Mosque is located in the sea on a small island - a  long walk takes one to the mosque  and this is only accessible at low tide. The queue stretched for ages so we did not attempt this. Constructed in 1431 in memory of a very wealthy merchant who gave up all his worldly possessions before taking a pilgrimage to Mecca it remains a very important mosque and a popular tourist attraction.

Marine Drive gives a view of the Arabian sea and this is a popular area for walking. Unfortunately, on the tour there is not much time to get out and wander.

The Hanging Gardens were created in 1880 and renovated in 1921 - with hedges in the shapes of animals and an "Old Women's Shoe" for the kids to climb, (we saw many adults too!) is a good place to chill out, walk or jog. This area is known as Malabar Hill, which is apparently very expensive. It certainly does not look expensive except for the Governor's House tucked away in a prime position. Certainly not Clifton, Cape Town.

Parking at any of these spots is a nightmare and the cops apparently issue "illegal" fines to tour guides or hotel drivers. Corrupt officials everywhere?

Talking with a cell phone is also prohibited and there are cops all over, watching for drivers chatting. The motor bike folk tuck their cell phones into their helmets so as to escape detection! Good  move and rather inventive, I would say!

Apparently, there are many wealthy folk in Mumbai which is the financial centre of India - however, to earn all these Indian Rupees they have to work 12 hours per day. Take in approx. 2 hours of travelling to work and back again, they are away from home for 14 hours - that leaves just 10 hours for dinner, family time and sleep! It seems 12 hour shifts are the norm as our tour guide from the hotel works 7 - 7!

Dialect changes happen every 100 km or so with various food styles as well. However, there are numerous English Newspapers so many Indians speak English. The offices of the "Times of India" are huge, set in an impressive building opposite the Victoria Terminus. This station is a world heritage site and was fairly quiet on Sunday. We believe it heaves with people during the week! We started taking photos and were then stopped by somebody asking if we "had permission" As we did not know what this entailed, we shook our heads and wandered back out again. The Sea Cadets, all smartly dressed, wanted their photo's taken and kept pushing each other to get closer! With wide smiles, we did manage to grab a quick shot!

The Dhobi Ghat is a very famous and amazing open air laundry. With laundry hanging all over the place, it's an incredible sight. The men wash the laundry from local hotels and hospitals and all is done by hand. Only men work here and this tradition has been going on for many, many years. Bashing the laundry would certainly get rid if anybody's aggression, I would say!  Families also live in "shacks" around the laundry. A buzzing place 7 days a week and a tradition that has survived modern times and washing machines. Sometimes, change is not always for the better - old methods work just as well.

Our driver has 3 children, 20, 17 and 5! All born at at a Government Hospital where they are only charged 10 Rupees. There are also private hospitals that charge much more. Mumbai is an incredible city with so many different facets that it is difficult to take it all in - the rich, the middle class and the very, very poor living in total squalor, far worse than anything in South Africa? Yet they still smile! And seem to survive? Although......

Rape, dengue fever in Bandra, match fixing all make the Sunday papers. However, the newspapers here are not all doom and gloom and make rather interesting reading. Cricket is, of course, a huge topic in India and the Oval in Mumbai is most popular with a number of matches underway when we passed by. Hockey comes a poor second as EVERYBODY loves cricket. You will make a friend for life if you are able to talk about Indian cricket.

We walked down past this 5 star hotel and within a short distance came across a huge local village of shops, friendly people and children all wanting a photo. We cannot get over the squalor that some Indians live in and yet they are all friendly, smiling and allow us to photograph their surroundings and way of life. It's humbling to say the least.

The Fishing Village is also not far from the hotel so we walked back there this afternoon. The fishermen were all tying up their nets - a laborious task, it seems. The floats are neatly bagged for use again tomorrow. The tide was out so we could see the "beach" - a conglomerate of litter as far as the eye could see. The boats are all very colourful with brightly coloured flags flapping in the slight breeze. The children are so amazingly friendly, given that we always seem to be the only Westerners walking!!!! Photo please, they ask politely! We have not yet met an angry Indian and hopefully, this does not ever happen.

Some guys do stare at us as if we are aliens - it seems that Westerners don't wander around like we do?

So far we have seen very few dogs, a few scrawny hens, cows of the pavement with an Indian lady guarding the cow from silly tourists who want to take photo's. It OK if you purchase some grasses to feed the cow, then photos are permitted! We did not realise this at first until our tour guide explained what the lady was "selling"

All in all, a day of many surprises and a brief glimpse into the Indian culture. Whist the caste system is obviously still very much in place, people remain happy. Perhaps they are born with beautiful, smiling faces - one hopes so. I could not bear the thought of living in such squalor, surrounded by filth, the smell of fish and having to call such a tiny hovel my home......Those of the more privileged, have a far easier life with their servants and cars.

Tonight we decided to give the Thai Restaurant in Taj President Hotel a try. WOW!! What an explosion of tastes in everything that was served from the chicken dishes to the potato mix to the very decadent desserts. The hotel staff reckon that this is the best Thai Restaurant in Mumbai. Now we cannot comment on this, but it certainly puts our Cape Town "Wang Thai" Restaurant to shame. Totally delicious flavours explode in the mouth and leave the most incredible tastes. All I can say again is "WOW" Whilst the service in all the hotel restaurants have been superb, the Thai one wins our vote, hands down - no competition! We will return to sample more of their delights!

My Kindle better have a really good novel to take my mind off this meal............goodnight!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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India - Mumbai (1/2)

After months of planning, our India holiday has at long last arrived. Up at the crack of dawn (for me anyway!)  the taxi collected us a a cold and wet morning. With heavy storms and snow expected in the Western Cape, we were rather  glad to be leaving the drab, soulless day behind. There was not much time in Johannesburg before the international leg of the journey to Mumbai. However, boarding was delayed (no explanation) so we waited and waited. After standing in a long line for over 30 mins, boarding commenced. The flight was good with only minor turbulence. The downside was a very loud child of about 3years who did not stop shouting the entire flight. If she was not calling her brother, who was seated across the isle, she was shouting at her mother who was right next to her! Her father was in a seat behind but seemed totally oblivious to the noise! I suppose they ignore her all the time and it is just "white noise" in their house? The other irritation was the bell somewhere above my head which kept pinging ALL night long. The people on the flight were mainly Indians - very few Westerners so our food was curry! Surprise? An announcement was made before serving the food that it was all Halaal. Now I have no problem with anybody's eating habits but SAA should advise those of us who do not like Halaal food, that we need to pre-order something else maybe? In this day and age of democratic society, having something forced down my throat, or starve, is not quite what I have in mind when flying SAA. Other than that, full praise to the staff and pilot..

As we disembarked, the lovely warm air hit my limbs which tuned to jelly. Warm for the first time in months, it was a delicious feeling. Our luggage took ages to arrive, but then it was plain sailing to the hotel as the traffic was light by Mumbai standards. The driver, sent by the Vivanta President Hotel, was extremely courteous and pointed out the sights as we sped along. Loads of "shacks" just past the airport with 24 tyre repair places still open. What story does that tell you about the driving? Taxi's still plying for trade, young couples on scooters whizzing past at nearly 02.00 in the morning. Apparently, 02.00 is the witching hour for those living in Mumbai. We won't be testing that theory though! The hotel welcome was superb and a long glass of fresh watermelon juice was delivered to our room. Although still fairly early by Cape Town time, we were exhausted from the long day and fell into bed.

We woke at 08.00, turned over for 30 minutes more shut-eye and woke at 10.20 - too late for breakfast. Bummer! So after a shower, we headed for an early lunch at the hotel's Italian Restaurant and our first Kingfisher beer. I am sure many more of those will be consumed as we discovered the heat today! The service is first-class.

Our hotel suggested we walk to Colaba Causeway - just 10 mins, they said. Well, James managed to get us to walk very much more than that, somehow.

Mumbai is noisy as everybody will tell you - everybody blows their horn just for the hell of it, red robots don't seem to mean much but we soon learnt that following the locals was the only way to cross the street - just try and close your eyes to the scooters, brightly coloured buses, millions of taxi cabs that look as if they have seen better days and just as many bicycles. The locals seem to use the "local" taxis and they are crammed into the back seat. There are more "sedate" cabs that look in better shape but most probably cost more too.

It seems that school is held on a Saturday as we passed many parents with their children, all in very smart uniform. They seemed to come from the Convent School.  We walked, we walked some more, I asked directions, we walked some more, we started sweating, we walked some more....past shack like "shops" and very smelly areas. We found a spot near the sea and James took a video saying " this is Mumbai's Blue Flag Beach" Tongue in cheek as the water was so filthy. There was a young guy sitting there who turned round to glare at both of us - if looks could kill, we would not have survived. Sarcasm obviously did not go down well with this chap. Other than that, most folk have been friendly as we are soooo obviously tourists. We did not see many westerners at all today.

Some Indians do not speak English and will just shrug if you ask for directions but other were helpful, in sending us in the wrong direction!!!

We did not see many beggars today in Colaba (the tourist area of Mumbai) and nobody bothered us too much except some weird balloon sellers who were selling a packet of huge balloons - so big, I think one could take off on them! There was a young boy begging at a traffic light and 2 Indian men gave him money. Along the Causeway, a women with an arm hacked off, tried to beg. It looked so gross but one has to wonder if this was a genuine accident or a deliberate act to make begging easier?

The heat, the blisters on my toes did nothing for me when surrounded by the crowds at the Gateway to India. Security is tight in Mumbai - one's luggage is checked again once you are OFF the plane, the car is checked at the hotel, bags are checked at the hotel if you come back from a walk. Rather embarrassing having 4 large 650 ml bottles of Kingfisher in the shoulder bag! Seems we are not really 5* folk - love the ambiance and the comfort but the wallet with ZAR conversion is not so loaded!

The Gateway to India was crowded with Indian tourists - all waiting for the cruise to Elephanta Island?  This gateway was constructed to commemorate  the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to the city. Completed in 1920 it remains a striking symbol of the British Raj. The end of the era happened in 1947 when the British troops left India via the "Gateway to India". Camera men are all over the tourists in this area - trying to sell you a picture of yourself against the monument. With all cell phones able to take pics these days, one has to wonder how much business they do? Although, we did see a fair number of them taking shots of people grinning from ear to ear! It's just something that first time tourists "have" to do?

The area we wandered around is made up of many little shops selling all kinds of wares from cigarettes to hardware, to basins, to clothing and everything in between. Near to the Gateway to India there were guys making "fresh" juice and others selling delectable looking ice-creams. However, we have been warned about eating anything off the street so we sweated onwards! The other tip picked up before we left SA was that the Indians re-sell bottled water after gluing the caps back on! We saw evidence of this along this area - crazy what people will do to make a quick buck at the expense of foreigners health! I also spotted a circle of kids sitting on the pavement eating some food. Tough tummies!!

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, close to the Gateway to India, is very grand and shows Moorish, Florentine and Oriental styles - it is also the first hotel in India to have electricity, the first with a lift (elevator), the first licensed bar in Mumbai and the first to host international jazz bands.  Although we are staying at a Taj (President) the prices do vary and Taj Mahal was just a tad more than we wished to pay!

The hooting in Mumbai is constant, the heat is sweat-inducing, the pavements are a hit and miss zone with many pot holes which nearly resulted in a  sprained ankle, the smells are quite gross in some places we passed, but over-all the people are smiling and happy and very, very polite.

We made it back to the hotel in one piece but totally drenched in sweat and with blisters on my toes. Another shower was called for and a Kingfisher or two!

For an early, casual supper we headed to the restaurant at the Pool Deck which serves Indian cuisine. Not being a food boff, I cannot even remember the names of the dishes - suffice to say that we had crackers (white and thin) with 3 different dips - delectable! Then curry chicken and prawns with some Indian bread which one dips into the curry sauce. Dessert was Indian Ice Cream for me - very rich and yummy and some sort of spicy cake slice for James which was just as tasty. Again, the service is superb, friendly and very pleasant.

Tomorrow, we hope to explore further.......

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Please share - if you did not enjoy this post .....Shhh - but please still share!

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India - Preparation - Visas and Injections!!

Having taken the plunge and booked our flights and accommodation, it now comes down to the nitty-gritty of visas etc. It appears that all is not equal in this area of tourist visas to India.

Different countries have numerous visa requirements and one cannot argue with these as they all have to consider their national security.

For India, I was told on the Internet what was required as a South African Passport holders.
We complied with all the info and set off to the Visa agents appointed by the Indian Consulate.

First hassle - not all the documentation was in order. Why? Because there are different rules for Cape Town and Johannesburg! Both cities are in South Africa, so why would there be different rules? Nobody seems to know.

At this stage, full praise must go to the staff at the Visa offices - friendly, very helpful and obviously just as confused by this strange rule as we were.

Next problem....my partner has lived in South Africa since 1978, has full citizenship and a South African Passport. However, as he was born in Wales therefore a British Passport is required for an Indian Visa! Pray tell me what would have happened if he had allowed his British Passport to lapse? NO ENTRY TO INDIA!!!!! NO HOLIDAY!!! Money Down the drain!!!!!

This is Number One lesson - check all the visa requirements BEFORE booking accommodation or flights.

So I went off to add all the extra documentation and my partner went off to do the same plus pay a different fee (as a British Citizen!) for a visa in his British Passport.

It seems totally daft - however, we only found this all out AFTER the air-tickets were purchased and the accommodation was booked.

Cheap destination? Maybe not!
As South Africans, we pay a very high price for international travel as our Rand is worth so little.
For example, see the exchange rate below taken off Forex Exchange site on the same day:

1 ZAR = 6.38957 Rupees (this is even lower now!)
1USD = 66.4459 Rupees
1Euro = 88.9722 Rupees
1GPB = 103.321 Rupees

Needless to say, foreigners to our shores are able to have an incredible holiday in South Africa!

Now, having being scared totally sh......less by the many blogs on diseases in India, we visited the Travel Clinic to get some protection from all these horrid bugs and germs lurking around our chosen destination.

WOW - at what price - we could have bought another International Air-ticket for the cost of all these horrid jabs. The lady at the Travel Clinic was most apologetic for sticking those needles into our arms but that did not soften the pill of the astronomical costs.

It must be said that only Yellow Fever is compulsory, however the following are recommended:
Hepatitis A&B, Rabies, Typhoid, Tetanus and Polio. Malaria Tablets are recommended for certain areas of India - this info is available on the web.

Or you can save your money and take a chance on being bitten by a monkey or rabid dog!!

Spread over 3 whole weeks - one arm week 1, both arms in Week 2 and then a merciful break for 2 weeks until the last lot, again in one arm.

However, all this still does not prevent Delhi Belly, the very real threat in India, given their apparent unhygienic conditions. Stories of people wishing they could just die as they were suffering so much, makes one cringe in terror.

So why on earth have we chosen this destination?

Perhaps it was a weak moment and the fact that my son said "Please go somewhere other than Europe or UK this year, Mom" A Clinical Psychologist should surely know better than to send his mother off into the wilds of India where it seems the germs abound, just waiting to attack these silly foreign tourists?

A 101 things to avoid in India - did I really need to see that information on line after paying all this money? NO!!

Do we cancel and lose all our hard-earned cash or do we put on a brave face and meet those mean, alien germs head on?

Travel is, after all, an adventure into the unknown and this will certainly be one for us.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained so bring it on!!

We are determined to look only at the positive side from now on - friends who have visited India who rave about the place, books relating to Indian travels which start off hating the dirt and grime, horrid toilets, crowds and yet come away with lovely thoughts and memories.

It seems a country that is so diverse and so "in your face" with total sensory overload, that we are excited to become part of an extraordinary journey.

Holding thumbs, ankles, toes and anything else on the body!

PS - We enjoyed an incredible 4 week holiday in India - with some simple precautions, we escaped Dehli Belly, we loved the people, the food is incredible and the country is mind-blowing in it's diversity, total traffic mayhem and noise. A must on your Bucket List!!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Mall Shopping for Rainy Days

Mall Shopping in Cape Town for those Rainy days!



V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

Sometimes, visitors to our shores get caught with inclement weather (May - August) but don't be put off as we still have glorious days of sunshine during these months. For those rainy, wet and miserable days, the many local shopping malls will keep you occupied.

V&A Waterfront:
Our Number One choice is the V&A Waterfront. It's scenic location, surrounded by a working harbour, offers locals and tourists alike, an exciting shopping experience. Table Mountain looms over the city in it's many different moods and the huge "table cloth" that drapes over the mountain is a sight to behold. One of the 7 wonders of the natural world, this famous mountain is loved by all who gaze upon her. If you are unmoved by Table Mountain, perhaps it's time to step back and wonder where your sense of awe and child-like wonder has vanished to! Get it back from its hidey hole and enjoy Cape Town's cosmopolitan atmosphere.

The V&A is visited by locals and tourists and buzzes over week-ends and in the summer months. Whilst it is less busy during winter, this makes shopping easier and the many restaurants often have special deals on hearty winter fare. With over 80 restaurants to chose from, there is something for everybody's taste.

Shops abound with many craft areas like the Red Shed and the WaterShed Craft Market that are must visits. With much to discover, you can wander along, just browsing the many, varied shops, or take in a movie, until the rain stops. The shops are open from 09.00 hrs - 21.00 hrs so plenty of time to catch a cruise or brave the adrenalin adventure boat on a sunny day. Sometimes, just "people" watching whilst nursing a beer or coffee can be just as much fun as spending your hard-earned cash!

Canal Walk:
Over 400 shops on 2 levels - do the complete circuit and your feet will realise that you have visited Canal Walk! Open 09.00 hrs - 21.00 hrs every day, this shopping centre enjoys a busy trade on most days. Week-ends are often very hectic and prior to Christmas it competes with Oxford Street!

In addition to its popularity with the Western Cape's vibrant and discerning shoppers, Canal Walk has evolved into a must-visit tourist destination. It attracts thousands of international visitors every year with its spectacular architecture, spacious malls and unparallelled array of local and international retail brands as well as the unique Afri-Bizarre, which showcases the work of local retailers and craftsmen. 

Cavendish Square:
40 years on and still looking good, due to refurbishment, this is Southern Suburbs most exclusive shopping centre with approx. 200 shops and numerous coffee bars and restaurants. Frequented mainly by locals, the shopping hours are not as long as V&A or Canal Walk.

Kalk Bay and Simonstown: Daytime shopping only
Both these villages offer unique shopping experiences, albeit on the Main Road so not water-proof! Kalk Bay has antiques, art, china and bric-a-brac with numerous cafes to sustain the hunger pangs.

Simonstown has an interesting array of small shops, many with tourist souvenir's.

I have not listed the many smaller shopping experiences that abound in Cape Town - you are sure to chance upon these as you explore the peninsula.

We hope you enjoy this small sample of Cape Town indoor shopping venues!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Holocaust Centre

Firstly, I must admit to travelling for fun, relaxation, good food, great photos and exciting experiences. Being depressed by a travel experience does not fit into my equation as this does not result in a "feel good" moment. However, history shapes us, history teaches us valuable life lessons, which one hopes will always improve the quality of life on earth. So the bad and ugly have to be taken into account in order to give us all a better life.

Sadly, this is not always the case and it seems that sometimes human beings do not heed the past.

The local Holocaust Centre at the Jewish Museum in Cape Town was hosting an Anne Frank exhibition so we decided to educate ourselves on this era of distressful history. I think most people have heard of Anne Frank and have perhaps also read her diary, which was published in book form and has been translated into over 50 languages.

A quote from Anne's Frank says "Isn't it wonderful that none of us need wait a moment before starting to change the world" Profound words from a young girl who was subjected to such terror before dying of disease just days before the camps were liberated in 1945.

The Holocaust Centre is very well documented  but this really is not for the feint-hearted - it's very depressing to imagine what atrocities these Jewish people endured before being gassed or dying of disease or starvation. And yet, it also remains inspirational to listen to the stories spoken by survivors who went on to marry and have families. To me, that in itself, is an amazing feat and shows the strength of the human character to overcome extreme suffering, pain and humiliation.

So the story of the concentration camps under Hitler's rule is something we should all educate ourselves about as the tales are worse than one's worst nightmare.

The Museum is well laid out and there is a restaurant on site for those who still have their appetite after viewing the nightmare of the 2nd World War and Hitler's reign.

It is truly worth a visit, especially for us non-Jewish folk. For over 6 million people to be wiped out, for sole survivors to lose all their family members - what could be more devastating?

I cannot imagine.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Rhodes Memorial

View across towards Somerset West and Northern Suburbs of Cape Town
at Rhodes Memorial

On a clear day, you will see the distant Hangklip Mountains (Rooi Els) on the far right, with False Bay shimmering in the sunlight. The views enable the visitor to see right around to the Blouberg bay area on the left. So two oceans at one glance, with the suburbs of Cape Town spread below.

This is a favourite spot for locals and a must for visitors to Cape Town.

Sir Herbert Baker designed the memorial, to honour Cecil John Rhodes (1853 - 1902) who apparently loved this site.

It is an imposing memorial to a man who was both a mining magnate and the Prime Minister of the Cape Colony at one time. Known for his drive and determination, the 49 steps represent his life.
The monument was completed in 1912.

If you enjoy history, then visit Rhodes Cottage Museum in Muizenberg where Rhodes spent the last years of his life.

It's a fun place to visit - we could see the snow on the distant peaks today although Cape Town was bathed in brilliant sunshine. The Cape never gets enough snow for skiing but those snow-capped mountains sure do bring on the biting cold nights (for us locals used to 8 months of summer!!)

Once you have explored the views, sat on the stone steps to contemplate life of a bygone era, exclaimed at the beauty of the 8 carved lions, climbed the many steps, it is time for some refreshment at the Rhodes Memorial Restaurant.

For the energetic, there are hikes up to the Blockhouse and all the way round to either the Cableway or Kirstenbosch. For safety reasons, do not hike with valuables or on your own.

This spot is a firm favourite with both locals and visitors. Like so many of  Cape Town's attractions, you will often see more locals over week-ends than tourists. During the week, we are all at work (or should be) and it becomes a tourist mecca. We love to share the diversity, beauty and special places of our incredible Mother City, Cape Town!!



Enjoy some refreshments at Rhodes memorial Restaurant

This restaurant burnt down in a devastating mountain fire - it has not yet been re-built (2023) 

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Wijnland Motor Museum

Wijnland Motor Museum - Photographic Heaven!

Wijnland Motor Museum Cape Town

What drives people to collect old wrecks and vintage cars?

I can understand vintage cars – yes – they are normally kept in tip-top condition and invoke feelings of passion for a bygone era when life was simpler and time was not ticking against the clock.

But wrecks and rust? Hobbies take on all forms and they bring pleasure to the person who pursues them so we cannot judge what inspires some and not others.

I love visiting this this old car museum – it is indeed the owners passion  and a photographers delight!

The Wijnland Auto Museum displays South Africa’s largest collection of classic and vintage automobiles. It is also ideally positioned at the ‘gateway’ to the winelands. The Wijnland Auto Museum is in Joostenbergvlakte and getting there involves taking exit 34 off the N1; taking a left and then a right, look out for Cape Garden Centre and drive past this. The Garden Centre is also a stop for those who are peckish after the visit to the museum.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Llandudno Boulder Walk

Boulders at Llandudno Cape Town

  

Sometimes, the most impromptu detour takes one to an unexplored place and results in  a ramble along a path lined with huge, dramatic boulders, the constant crashing of the never-ending surf and a few other like minded people.

We were headed back home via the coastal road towards Sea Point, when the rolling waves, far below, seemed to call us closer down the steep road towards Llandudno.

Purely from curiosity, we swerved left and headed downwards, past the Security Hut with it's camera's beady eye, whilst being lured slowly downwards by those enormous, yet seemingly innocent rollers. In a dream, they would be terrifying as they rush to sweep one under, plunging the unsuspecting swimmer into a swirling maelstrom of unleashed power as they rush towards the shore.

We reached the parking area - so tiny compared to the waves (only 35 vehicles!) but managed to secure a spot. We wandered down the path and found the steps leading to the beach. However, the huge boulders further on caught our attention - just a bold as those waves and certainly worth a closer look. So we did not descend to the beach but wandered further on, meeting other strollers with dogs and children!

The path is to the left of the parking area and heads off  to a rocky headland of crazy shapes and sizes which totally overshadow man. Find you way around them, clamber over or under, sit and gaze at the never-ending power of the ocean crashing to the rocks below. The sound of the ocean is so loud, yet  very soothing as only the sea can be. On one side, gaze at the architectural mansions which "adorn" the slopes to the right of the beach.

A rich man's paradise - it seems so and what a spectacular part of Cape Town!

It was an unexpected delight and a wonderful ramble for adults with children to explore under and over the boulders!

A short, but energising walk for us in the glorious winter sunshine that so epitomises Cape Town.

In the end, we did not even venture down the steps to the beach where a number of people were sun-bathing (yes, it does happen in Cape Town in August!) as by now a cold beer was calling.....so we headed off to the V&A Waterfront to quench out thirst.

NB: Please take note - the water is cold here and the currents are strong. Lifesavers are on duty during summer.

On the other side of Llandudno lies Sandy Bay - a famous nudist beach! Visit if you dare.

Update: We have done this walk again (July 2015) and it remains one of our favourite spots for a winter wander. The crashing waves against the shore are music to my ears, the family picknicking on the huge rocks makes me wish I had brought a picnic too, and the surfers catching some waves all make for a soothing afternoon in the winter sunshine!
Some new photos have been uploaded on Flickr in Album "Llandudno"

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Mpumalanga

God's Window

Mpumalanga in South Africa, is a great province to visit, offering a variety of scenery with the biggest bonus  being Kruger Park. We took an early morning flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg - how people can be so cheerful so early in the morning is beyond me. The airport was buzzing with many smiling travellers while all I could think of was the warm bed that I had just deserted. Kulula offers a good service between the two cities - just remember to have cash with you if you require a sandwich or drink as they do not accept credit cards or foreign currency.

Landing in Johannesburg, we headed off to find our car rental - they were unable to supply us with any maps - is this a sign of the times or were we just stuck with a stingy car hire company? First Car Rental perhaps should read Last Car Rental? Luckily, we had borrowed a GPS and this got us out of the airport without a hassle. If you take the incorrect turning out of  OR Tambo Airport, you may wander lost for hours!

The road east is rather boring and flat for us Capetonions so used to seeing our beloved Table Mountain. However, the scenery does improve as one gets deeper into Mpumalanga. Our first stop was Gunyatoo Trout Farm where we were given a spacious family log cabin. More peaceful surroundings would be hard to find with millions of stars visible at night - if you are brave enough to venture out in the chill night air. Saturday dawned clear and warm so we headed off to Sabie on the logging road (gravel) Brunch was enjoyed at the Smokeys Pub. This pub has a train as part of the building so one can choose to sit in the compartments or in the pub or outside in the sunshine. This pub is beautifully decorated with various oddments such as an old switchboard, a large live parrot who can drink out of a can and many funny signs. The menu is large, too large, as the food was very average. But a great place to visit. It was like a summer's day - wonderful after the cold Cape Town weather. There is a rather neglected Putt-Putt course below the restaurant which we decided to try and it turned out to be great fun in the sun. It would be nice if the owners kept the course in better condition though as each person is charged R12.00.

Sunday was another brilliant, warm day and fly-fishing was the first item on the lazy day agenda. So off we all trotted to the dam which is very pretty in the morning light. Sadly though, despite their best efforts, not a single bite from a trout! A big brunch, a lively board game, some beers, then being taken for a walk by the farm dogs, all added up to a very relaxing day. Fly-Fishing featured on the late afternoon menu but James was the only one to catch a brief glimpse of a fish which then vanished rapidly into the depths again!

Trying to get out of bed on Monday morning was sheer torture as the temperature had plummeted so drastically. We said a good-bye to our host Debbie and set off on the pot-holed road to White River. Apparently, this road was fixed fairly recently but the first heavy rains washed out all the holes again! One wonders how this could happen if the road has been properly fixed in the first place? The road is used by the many trucks carrying timber so the holes will just get worse and the next repair is only scheduled in 7 years time. Seems like a policy that is very flawed - one would think that ongoing road repairs are a matter of road safety?

We enjoyed a dinner at Gum Treez in White River as they were lucky enough to have power! The electricity suddenly went out at approx 18.00 hrs and cast much of White River into darkness. A good meal was enjoyed by all.

Today we watched the Scottish Rugby team doing their practice warm-ups and training  before setting off the Jane Goodall Chimp Sanctuary outside of Nelspruit. Robert assisted us on arrival - he hails from Swaziland which is still ruled by the Swazi King. Government officials are elected by the people whilst the Prime Minister is elected by the King. Robert says that Swazi's are good-natured people and it remains a safe country. His wife and family live in Swaziland whist he has explored various work  options in South Africa, mainly in the hotel industry although he did a 6 month stint in the mines just for the experience which he did not enjoy! Our guide, Jason, took us to 2 enclosures where the chimps live. One does not enter the enclosures which are surrounded by electric wires. The chimps total 34 based in 3 camps. The oldest chimp,who looks like a wizened old man, is 67 and the youngest is 4 months. Contraceptives are placed in the female chimps so that breeding does not take place but this was an accident obviously! At first it was thought that the chimp had a tumour - this myth was dispelled by a scan at Medi-Clinic where it was ascertained that the chimp was pregnant!!! The mother and baby are in separate quarters not accessible to the public. As South Africa is not hot enough for chimps, they are housed inside at night. Sleeping either in hammocks or on beds of straw, they also have heaters in their quarters to keep the chill off during the winter nights. Breeding is not an option as the chimps cannot be released into the wild anywhere in South Africa. All have been rescued, some tales are very distressing. Chimps are sold as pets or for "bush" meat so illegal poaching continues in African countries. Two chimps were kept in a cage designed for an African Grey parrot.

Jane Goodall is now 79 and will most probably no longer visit the sanctuary after her 2013 trip. One hopes that her vision will live on and that these chimps will continue to live out their lives in peace. They certainly look well and comfortable - the only one to "perform" kept taking a long run-up, clutching small stones in his hand which he threw at the onlookers and then he clapped heartily as if to say " I gotcha!" Whist all the other chimps wandered off when the food supply stopped, he sat sucking his thumb with a forlorn look on his face as if to say " please come back and play with me"

Day in Kruger National Park

For me an early start! Breakfast at Zanna's just opposite Casterbridge was a good start to the morning. A stunning cat kept asking for food but we resisted as it is VERY well fed! Zanna's is open from 07.00 week-days and from 08.00 week-ends so it a good spot to stop for breakfast on the way to either Kruger or Numbi gate. We chose to go in via Kruger gate - this took about an hour from White River due to road works and crazy drivers who have no regard for white lines or blind rises. Bad driving in Mpumalanga seems the order of the day. Perhaps time for the cops to start fining and patrolling?

Entrance to the park was quick and easy and we headed off  in brilliant sunshine. We took the H4-1 towards Sabie and were lucky to spot a huge buffalo, giraffe in a group of  about 9, zebra, a large the herd of elephants with a massive bull elephant and babies. Waterbuck, a stunning speciman of male kudu, many impala, and about 6 hippo sunning themselves on the sandy banks of the Sabie. We cut across the S21 headed back towards Numbi Gate and spotted another male elephant quietly browsing. There were apparently 2 lion lying in the grass but we were too low down in our tiny rental car so could not see them. A quick toilet stop at Numbi gate and then out of the park after a glorious day.

The road from Numbi is full of pot holes - beware! It seems that road maintenance is not high on the list of priorities here and the roads have deteriorated substantially since we last visited about 2 years ago. One has to wonder what the municipality does with their funds as it obviously does not go towards road maintenance! However, after this bad stetch, it was plain sailing to White River - much quicker than going via Kruger Gate.

We both needed our medication so headed to Nelspruit Clicks for our scripts. I have to say full marks to this pharmacy - the chaps were extremely helpful and very friendly. It is such a pleasure dealing with people who are quite happy to go the extra mile.

Day Drive Sabie - Graskop - God's Window - Bourke's Potholes - Blyde River Canyon

Another glorious day in Mpumalanga and a drive to view some of the famous sites along the Panorama Route was called for. So we set off towards Sabie  where we encountered an organised burn of the grasses next to the road. Oh my gosh, the smoke was so think we could not see a thing ahead and when I looked out of my window, I saw flames jumping right next to my door. Freaky and dangerous - the guys should have stopped us until the smoke cleared as our car could have caught alight. One realises the enormous value of controlled fire breaks and grass burns in this area as it is forested for miles and miles. However, perhaps they need to be a teeny bit more cautious letting cars through in zero visibilty?

This area is surrounded by plantations, all with different names. One climbs up and up to Sabie which lies in a valley. The road then carries on to Graskop where you can stop for a hike or walk to the many waterfalls in the area. Sabie Falls and Bridal Veil Falls are in the Sabie area. Mac-Mac is a stunning area and one can swim in the pools or take a walk along the river. Lisbon Falls, Berlin Falls, Horseshoe Falls and Lone Creek Falls are all in this area - choose one or do them all if you enough time in the Sabie/Graskop region. Graskop has numerous restaurants, many of them appear to serve pancakes! I am not sure why this is so but do know that Harries Pancake's has been around for ages in Graskop - perhaps everybody else has copied them or maybe the locals just love pancakes?

God's Window was our next stop. The views from here are simply wonderful, even though the skies are often hazy. The smoke from the controlled burns did not help the visibility in this area. Curio sellers abound here so you shop for souvenirs to take home or small mementoes of your holiday.

Our next stop was to a view point before Bourke's Potholes where we chanced upon a bush pub and restaurant set on the banks of the Treur River. Called Pot Luck Restaurant it's quaint and different. The food is cooked on open fires and an old coal-fired stove. Rustic and basic, they cater for weddings (???) in true bush style and enjoy the patronage of many overseas visitors to the region. The "View Point" sign is, of course, the catch - one drives down this road and over a very unstable looking bridge to come to a parking area where the pub is situated. Good marketing of a "View Point" !! As they sell mainly quarts of beer, we abstained as we still had much driving to do. It was also not time for a large 300gr steak! However, certainly worth a look and if you are hungry or thristy, why not? The toilets are set a little way back as they are "long drops" - I have not used one of these since my very early childhood days in our holiday bungalow in Mossel Bay. I was always so terrified of falling down this smelly hole or worse, some horrid spider biting me on the bum! I decided that the pit stop could wait!

Bourke's Potholes are an incredible feat of nature's swirling pebbles and gushing water from the Treur and Blyde Rivers. Huge holes, so smooth they look like black chocolate coating on rocks! Deep and dark it is very difficult to capture the immense cavities on camera. One can walk up to the river for awhile - crystal clear water tumbling over stones as it has done for centuries. A truly dramatic spot.

Time was running out but we drove another 15 km or so to the first viewpoint over the Blyde River canyon - so very beautiful, this is something one just has to gaze at in awe. A few days in the canyon area would be ideal as there is much scenery to enjoy in this majestic 20 km long canyon. Hikes, white river rafting, abseiling, boat trips, or a circular drive will show you the immense beauty of this region.

A great day out in incredible scenery and wonderful sunshine - the roads are very good with very few potholes! large trucks carrying timer are a common sight but most pull over to allow one to pass. The road back down to White River from Sabie is downhill all the way - hope your brakes are in good condition!

Chinese food finished off the evening - great personal service from owner, Sue who was eager for us to try her new creations. And all was delicious so we wish her well in her "new" venture in White River.

And we leave White River for Malelane....

Another glorious sunny day (I do so love my T-Shirts and shorts apparel!!) as we check out of Ingenyama to head off to Malelane.
This drive is again so different as the farms lining the roads are fertile with oranges, mielies, sugar cane and other crops. The orange trees look stunning with their golden crop just waiting to be picked. Malelane is a bustling town with many beautiful homes and plenty of accomodation. We are based on the banks of the Crocodile River and animal watching is right on our doorstep.

A herd of 5 elephants were grazing just below the Kruger Park fence, the hippos keep talking in grunts to each other, we spied a white goat whose days may well be numbered as he/she is in the Kruger Park and just waiting to become lion food. Clinton & Virginia left Maputo at 17.30 and it took them 5.5 hrs to reach Malelane! Total gridlock leaving Maputo. One wonders when the powers that be will build an alternative route out of Maputo?

Our Self-Catering cottage ran out of gas on Saturday morning and we had to wait for over 2 hours for a replacement cylinder which made us very late with breakfast. We eventually left for Mbombela Stadium for the double header of rugby. Samoa against Italy was a great game with Samoa walking away with the game. We went down to get some food - queues! The 2nd game was between South Africa and Scotland. Having seen Scotland practising hard all week at the hotel where we were staying, I found myself shouting for their team until their Number 5 caused a ruckus and was sent off with a yellow card. This seemed to fire up the South African team who then went on to win the match. A great stadium and a great atmosphere!

The drive back to Malelane was fine, just very dark and with many trucks still on the road between Maputo and Nelspruit.

Sunday - Father's Day and the queue for the Malelane Kruger Park gate was about 3 km long so we turned round, bought breakfast goodies from the Super Spar and stayed in our SC unit in the sunshine. Unfortunately, no animals showed themselves to us today. Board games in the sun were fun, with the occasional Fish Eagle call to make us look in vain for more animals! 

Day in Kruger via Malelane Gate

Success today - no queue to get into the park - yeah!!!

Blue skies, fluffy white clouds, quiet roads and ANIMALS!!! We spent from 09.00 until 17.00 in the park and enjoyed a really successful day of animal spotting with a break at Lower Sabie Camp for lunch. Hippo's, giraffe, elephant, warthogs, rhino (most probably the only ones left in the park), vervet monkeys, baboons, kudu, wildebeest, zebra, impala, water buck, buffalo (a huge herd) various birds - unfortunately, no lions or leopards. Kruger Park is such a special place and can be re-visited countless times. Animals are fascinating to watch - we saw zebra scratching themselves on tree branches for ages. they turned around and did the massage from the other side as well - very funny to watch. And free! No massage parlour required. A giraffe was also looking very amorous and kept sniffing the female. He looked set to get lucky when, unfortunately, another giraffe appeared on the scene and the female decided that 3 was not conducive to any romantic play.  The little baby vervet monkeys were drinking at the river bed - very daintily and so cute. The rhinos were grazing very peacefully and it is such a shame that perverted people have to destroy these magnificent, peaceful grazers. Suddenly, something spooked them and they scurried off into the bush. Poachers are a huge problem in Kruger Park and one hopes the rangers will eventually win the battle before the species is extinct. Elephants are always an awesome sight and watching the herds drink, browse and then form a straight line back into the dense bush, is just something special. Giraffe are inquisitive animals and look at one with their beautiful eyes - the impala also have these liquid eyes - so incredibly stunning. Impala are fairly common so one tends to ignore them as "traffic" after awhile - however, they are truly beautiful buck and worth watching.

The herd of buffalo was a special find - large beasts, not quite as ugly as wildebeest, but most impressive. Wildebeest -only their mothers can love them?
The zebra, wildebeest, impala are often spotted together - for protection maybe?

All in all, a simply stunning day with the most magnificent sunset to escort us out of the park.

One of the "must do's" in South Africa - however, animals are not very visible in rain and sometimes a day or more is required as the park is huge.
Do be patient, keep your eyes peeled at all times and you are sure to spot game. It's an exciting destination - as locals we love our country and hope you will too!

Sadly, our short break has come to and end and we are headed back to Cape Town. The weather throughout our stay was superb - hot and sunny during the day with cold nights. No rain at all during the trip except for a very short shower one night when staying near Sabie.

Until next time....

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com