New Zealand - South Island

New Zealand - Oh so scenic, South Island

Ferry crossings can be a nightmare for those of us who suffer from motion sickness but luckily our trip, from North to South Island was fairly calm after a very windy day in Wellington the day before. We collected our next rental car and set off towards Christchurch, the gateway to South Island and the 2nd biggest city in New Zealand. The drivers seemed to drive faster here than on North Island where we sometimes felt we were hardly moving, being used to the long, straight roads in South Africa. I think the Germans would have difficulty sticking to the speed limits in NZ given their very fast driving on their autobahns! A happy medium would be great - not so slow but not quite so fast either. The route from Picton to Christchurch is mainly farmland with sightings of sheep and cows plus some twisty roads to keep one awake.

Our visit was prior to the huge earthquakes that hit Christchurch in 2011 so we were lucky to enjoy the beauty of the city before this huge disaster struck. The city is being re-built and our favourite spot, Cathedral Square should be opened again later in 2012.

A Punt Ride along the River Avon is a must. Started in 1986 as a tourist attraction, these Edwardian Punt rides are a 30 min leisurely punt along the river and one feels under-dressed in jeans or shorts! Where are those beautiful long dresses that were worn so long ago? Christchurch is known for its beautiful gardens and the river banks are pretty and the punters interesting. Rugby, and all sports, are favourite topics of conversation with any Kiwi and with many links to South Africa on the sports front, James was never at a loss for conversation openers! As a Teddy collector, what better to buy than a NZ Rugby teddy who now holds fort in the lounge whenever rugby is viewed on the TV. As it is on most Saturdays in our winter....!!

We met an interesting chap from Turkey on one of our tours around the city - he was telling us that his very first apartment in Toyko was mere 10sq m. It seems unbelievable but living in Toyko where space is at a premium and expensive, he most probably just had bed and loo space! He admitted that the Japanese are work-a-holics but do like to travel so he was in NZ organising schedules for Japanese tourists.  One hopes that he has become very successful and that his apartment is now much bigger!

The TranzAlpine to Greymouth is a superb ride and an experience not to be missed. Unfortunately we ended up with a coach full of kids on a school outing who were so noisy we could not hear ourselves think! We MOVED!!

The train crosses the Canterbury Plains and follows the Waimakariri River then climbs via a series of viaducts into the Alpine regions. The scenery is spectacular and one just wants the rail journey to go on and on. Arthurs Pass has the cutest little station and this area is great for nature lovers, hikers, snow boarders, mountain climbers etc as the mountains are right there. The children also got off at this point - HURRAY!  The next experience is chugging through the long Otira tunnel (about 14 mins ride - 8.50 km) after which the train starts descending through rain forests and eventually onto the West Coast and Greymouth. 

Greymouth is the largest town on the West Coast and was known for it's coal and gold mining. The River Grey runs into the sea here and it is indeed a wide and grey river! Forestry took over as a major industry once the gold mining declined and fishing also plays a role in the area. Greenstone, a form a jade is also found in this area. The return journey to Christchurch was even more scenic and rather jolly as we had some rather merry Kiwi's plus an Aussie who kept us entertained with their antics after maybe one too many drinks in Greymouth! The local beer from Monteiths Brewery (established since 1868) may have been the cause! There were a number of signal faults on the way back so we were somewhat delayed.

Queenstown - what can one say? Lake Wakatipu is truly beautiful and Queenstown must be one of the prettiest towns around plus it is THE place to be for any sort of action sport. The younger set flock here as do the families on skiing holidays. It's a bustling town, small enough to wander around on foot in the centre. We met an ex South African lady who landed in Queenstown on a skiing holiday over 20 years ago, settled and married and loves the town. She could still pick out our South African accent and it was great chatting to her about her life in NZ. It is always interesting to hear stories from ex South Africans. A teacher friend who applied for a "cleaning" job just to be employed until he could find a teaching post, was told he was not "qualified to clean" What sort of qualifications does one need to clean? Mind-blowing! Luckily, he did eventually obtain a teaching post.
We took the Skyline Gondola which is the steepest cable car lift in the Southern Hemisphere and offers spectacular views over Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu - it's just one of those "must do's" The Bungi jump is fascinating to watch (if you can't pluck up the courage to do it yourself!) and the screams of those hurtling down can be pretty chilling. However, all the jumpers seem to enjoy the thrill - just take your dentures out first as you may well lose them on the long way down!! If you have any, of course.

Arrowtown, built on the banks of the Arrow River saw a gold mining boom in the 1860"s when gold was discovered in 1861. By 1862 the town had 1500 miners camped along the river. Approx. 340 kgs of gold was escorted out of the town in 1863. The boom did not last too long and most minors moved on by 1865. The town has preserved many of the old buildings and it's worth a wander to soak uyp some history. If history is not your passion, there are numerous walking/hiking trails from Arrowtown. If skiing is your pastime, the ski slopes of Coronet Peak (20 mins) or the Remarkables (45 mins) will give you that much needed enjoyment on the slopes. With long opening hours, you can impress friends and family with your skiing expertise or just take time out on the beauty of the mountain. Night skiing is available July to mid September on Fridays and Saturdays.for those who need to catch another run before dinner!

If you spot a car with no ski racks in this part of the world, you will realise that the occupants are crazy South Africans who have no clue how to ski. Who skis in sunny South Africa? Not many people - we sun-tan and spend time on our glorious beaches! I must say, I did feel rather jealous of the ease in which some skiers came flying down the slopes - it looks so effortless! But we did also see many limping persons so it's not all effortless and pain-free!!!

Queenstown Gardens beckoned us on a beautiful, warm afternoon. These gardens are beautiful and the views are spectacular. With tennis courts, bowling green, ice hockey etc, they are a focal point for local activity. The founder of the gardens was born in Haverford West, West Wales, much to James' delight. The Welsh sure do get around!.
 William Gilbert Rees, the first settler and founder of Queenstown arrived with his family in 1860 by whaleboat. A  plaque in the gardens is dedicated to him.

A drive to Kelvin Heights showed us some stunning properties running right down to the lake. With barbeque's and boats visible, this seems a wonderful lifestyle in one of the the most scenic areas of the world.

If you want to view the sights where "Lord of the Rings" was filmed, take a drive to Glenorchy. This area is also spectacular and offers much in outdoor activities for the energetic. Be prepared to find some gems stuck in the middle of nowhere. We found an artist who had recently returned from living both in London and Johannesburg, South Africa. Whilst working as a beautician, it seems art and New Zealand life called her back to the family farm and her lively border collie. We enjoyed lunch at a cafe in Glenorcky which filled up rapidly - perhaps due to the sunny day.

South Island is an endless stream of stunning scenery and outdoor activities - the beauty of one's surroundings are such that one wishes the sun would never set - then our eyes could feast for hours on end on the landscapes. It's something that has to be experienced - it's a photographers dream. Our next trip was to Milford Sound - this meant a 05.30 start - horror of horrors! The road is very windy, breathtakingly beautiful and we did a number of stops (with many other coaches!) If you want a more peaceful experience, try Doubtful Sound. We stopped for breakfast in Te Anau, the 2nd largest lake in New Zealand. The largest lake is Lake Taiupo in North Island with Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown being the 3rd largest.

Milford Sound is extremely beautiful and we went right up to a number of waterfalls and saw seals swimming around in the crystal clear water. Unfortunately, we shared the trip with a large group of Japanese tourists who could not stop jabbering very loudly, the kids were running riot and this spoilt the calm and peace that should have prevailed in this awesome fjord. Even with this irritation, it was well worth the early morning start!

On last leg of our journey we took the Alpine route us to Wanaka across the mountains. Along the West Coast there are many rain forests, the area is lush and green, the beaches are deserted and it seemed like we were the only folk around. We stopped often for walks amongst this verdant greenery, to admire the many ferns and trees before reaching our stop for the night at Fox Glacier. The hotel seemed deserted so we headed to a local cafe which was buzzing and lively and turned 3 tables while we were there. Quite a feat in such a small place. A decadent Mud Pie completed the evening!

Fox Glacier is fed by four Alpine Glaciers, is 300 m deep and it runs for approx. 13 km to the coast. A "walk" up the glacier is a must but be warned. It's not a walk - it's a hike!! For the very fit, yes maybe, a walk. After donning extra socks and boots, we set off uphill. I was drenched in sweat in no time, despite the cold. The leader refused to allow me to bring up the rear so everybody had to walk at my pace. I felt rather embarrassed to be holding the fit 20 yr olds up, but what the heck, the brochure did not elaborate too much on the fitness level required. Once we reached the ice, we had to put on our crampons for the walk down the glacier. Glaciers are always so beautiful with their deep blue crevices ( don't ever attempt this without a guide) There are many rocks on top of this glacier so it looks black and is not as pristine looking as the Athabasca Glacier in Canada. Our guide was very informative, as fit as a fiddle and very accommodating with my speed - or lack thereof!!. All in all, it took us 3.5 hrs - great exercise even with my back muscle in spasm from lifting a heavy suitcase the  previous night.

Lake Matheson is a mirror lake and offers many beautiful reflections of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman, the highest peaks in New Zealand. Formed about 14,000 yrs ago by the retreating Fox Glacier, this lake can be circulated in about 1.5 hrs. The organic material from the surrounding forest gives the water it's dark brown colour. The reflections are world-famous and grace many place mats, posters, photographs and paintings. You do need a windless day though!

Gillispie Beach was reached via a stunningly beautiful rain forest with amazing bird calls, peace and tranquillity. The West Coast of NZ  has so much rain that the foliage is incredible but perhaps living in  this area is not so great when you are in it every day! We just loved the forests, ferns and birds but would not enjoy rain, rain and more rain throughout the year. It's a great journey though and certainly worth a visit. Gold was discovered here in 1865 but it was never the most successful of mining operations and many of the mining machinery relics can be seen in this area. There are also graves of  about 17 persons who died between 1867 and 1896. These early pioneers were a hardy lot and could most probably teach us a thing or two today, living as we now do in comfort with all mod cons! The stories would be amazing - so much history in such an isolated place.

Our last drive was over Arthurs Pass, very twisty and windy and interesting as we had done this on the Trans Alpine Train earlier. We reached Christchurch all in one piece, having survived the Glacier climb and the sparsely populated West Coast. Our friends managed to find a physio for my, now aching incredibly, back and  full marks to the NZ health system. As I had injured myself lifting a suitcase in New Zealand (my own stupid fault!!) I did not have to pay anything for the ultra-sound treatment. I was treated with respect and have only praise for the NZ system. My back improved dramatically and we were able to set off on the last leg of our journey to Sydney, Australia.

South Island is truly beyond words - the adjectives just do not do justice to the spectacular scenery so if beauty talks to you, visit South Island New Zealand. It's a photographers dream, a place of mystical beauty and a truly spiritual journey. The adrenaline junkies are well catered for so this island offers it all.

Young or old - there is something for everyone.

Book your tickets now!!!

© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Mossel Bay - Summer Memories

Point Caravan Park Mossel Bay South Africa

Way back in 1488 Bartholomew Diaz anchored in Mossel Bay - he certainly found a great spot although one would imagine that swimming in the warm waters of this beautiful bay was not the most important item on his agenda at that time. Mossel Bay oysters or mussels perhaps plus the crystal clear spring water?
The town was aptly named Mossel Bay in 1601 after the many mussels found on the rocks.
Officially founded in 1848 Mossel Bay still has an olde world feel about it today.

Mossel Bay is not hip and flashy like so many summer resorts and out of season you will have the wide open beach practically all to yourself but the regular holiday makers will tell you that they return year after year to bask in the sunshine and enjoy the warm waters of the bay.Likened to Hawaii in weather, my childhood memories of summer holidays are so special that a trip down memory lane was taken recently to re-visit the many favourite places of my childhood.

Mossel bay South Africa

My father loved this spot for his early morning swim. Not being a swimmer, he did a crazy "crab-like" swim and perhaps felt safe in this natural channel. I very seldom joined the family on these early (06.00 am) morning swims - even then, it was not my best time of day! And that has not changed. Being a red-head, my dad got sun-burnt sitting in the shade so he preferred this time of day when the sun was still getting up and did not burn his very fair skin.
My earliest memories of summer holidays conjure up our asbestos clad bungalow set above the beach with glorious views over the bay. The jumble of bungalows known as "The Bakke" was an absolute rabbit warren - some so close together that only us kids could squeeze between the houses. It was great for hide and seek during the twilight hours before we were hauled inside to bed. With no running water, a communal toilet set down the road, paraffin lamps and a live-in servant, this was beach luxury at its best! Until my mother decided that the walk with the torch down the road at night was not so much fun and she had somebody install a long-drop in the back yard. Luxury for mom and dad!! I was terrified of this toilet and always imagined myself falling down, never to be seen again Maybe that is why I hate aircraft toilets - they also want to suck me in and spit me out! The spiders loved this loo - it was sheltered from the wind and they had carte blanche for many months of the year.

Catching rain water in buckets to wash our hair was the greatest luxury of all during the long 6 weeks school holidays. The train line was just across the road and we loved watching the men on their trolleys checking out the railway line. They were a friendly bunch and always gave us a wave. The trains came thru regularly in those days and the sound of the whistle would disturb our slumbers for a second or two before the passing train lulled us to sleep again. My Gran was an absolute whizz at making pickled fish and she did this every December holiday. Dad would go down to the harbour to buy a cob or two, fresh off the boat then Gran and Spaas, the domestic, would slave over cleaning, filleting and cooking all this fish on a tiny primus stove. The kitchen got so hot and steamy that the rest of the family stayed well clear.The results were bottled in the tastiest curry sauce to be enjoyed for most of the following year. I have never found pickled fish anywhere to rival my Gran's! Needless to say, she was the cook of the family  as my mother hated cooking and I am, quite simply, even worse!

I loved going to town with my mother to Cuff Street where there was a general dealer who had the most fascinating "cashier" system. He placed the money in a small bowl and it went whooshing so fast above our heads on a pulley system to the lady on the other side of the shop who would put in the change and whoosh it back down again. I could stand all day and watch this going backwards and forwards - beats modern day tills any day from a child's perspective.

Today, the street is no longer exciting and has a "To Let" sign plastered all over the windows.

The arrival of the Union Castle lines every fortnight in the bay were a great thrill and my dad loved to get out his binoculars to see what he can spy on board these beautiful ships. He also loved watching the schools of porpoises swimming along and these were a regular occurrence in the bay those days. Another annual outing was the trip around Seal Island - my gran made us all take clean handkerchiefs on which she liberally poured 4711 Cologne for us to hold over our noses as we got closer to the seals. The seals certainly do pong to high heaven but I cannot bear the smell of that 4711 - luckily, my preferred perfume these days is much gentler, modern and more refined!

The bungalows stretched over a wide area and we had loads of exercise going around the village and to the beaches. There were dances at night for the teenagers but we were not allowed to go and could watch from the side-lines if one of the adults accompanied us! It's hell watching others have fun when you can't!

Mossel Bay South Africa

The days seemed to stretch on forever, swimming, playing, eating, taking long walks, collecting shells and corks washed up onshore - it was a children's paradise. Bungalow owners came from all over South Africa, many were farmers who came with truck loads of meat for their braai's! Paraffin fridges kept the essentials cool, doors were left wide open to allow the cool sea-breezes of the evening to gently blow through the house. With no ceilings it could get pretty hot so the breezes were always welcome. We used to walk this walk (see pic above) from the bungalow to the next beach where the main swimming was just around the corner.
The highlight of our week was always the arrival of the donkey carts who parked across the railway line on a grassy knoll to sell their fresh fruit and vegetables. The braying of the donkeys was so much part of the holiday as were the washerwomen who bashed and trashed the clothes on rocks in the same area. No mod cons just plain elbow grease!! We gingerly crossed the railway line and road to get to the donkey carts so that gran or dad could choose the best produce to get us thru the next week,
 My gran, who died at 91 years of age, was a great walker and she used to insist that I accompany her on her many walks as far as the old whaling station, which was close to Diaz Beach (as it is called today) Up to 30 whales were processed annually, however, the station apparently closed down in 1913.
The death knell came when the Mossel Bay Council decided that the bungalows at The Bakke all had to be demolished (the land was leased from Council) Those at the Point were allowed to remain and I still wonder to this day who bribed who? The Point bungalows have all been sold and renovated and now fetch millions. NOT FAIR!!! The Mossel Bay Council eventually put up chalets on the ground at the Bakke - soulless things with no character whatsoever. Our bungalow looked onto the beach below - we could literally fall out of bed, roll down the slope and be on the beach!

Mossel bay South Africa

My mom bought a house when the bungalow was demolished(depression - it had electricity and a flush toilet!!!) up on the hill and this mildly dilapidated semi is still in the family today as a holiday house. With stunning views over the main bay it is also well-loved and hopefully the next generation will also get to love the beach holidays.

Mossel Bay South Africa

At year end, Mossel Bay is a hive of activity with thousands of holiday makers who give the town a festive air. The beach at Santos with it's wonderful old Pavilion enjoys Blue Flag status currently and the smaller beach, called Munro Bay is calm and peaceful looking over the Yacht Club. The noise of the jet ski's during Peak Season can become very annoying but I suppose everybody has their own brand of fun!

Stone buildings still remain in Mossel Bay and the Main Street has some gems. As with all progress, the death of Main Streets is caused by the huge shopping malls and here Mossel Bay is no exception. It is unfortunate as the Main Street is such a part of Mossel Bay and needs to be preserved. Some of the old favourites are still hanging on but there are many "To Let" signs and our favourite restaurant, Jazzbury's" has gone. This restaurant, in a lovely old stone house, was our favourite for many, many years and we were unable to find out why it closed down in 2011. The food was always wonderful and the ambiance was just right. The house is currently standing empty (2012) and we hope it will be preserved.

Jazzbury's - gone but not forgotten - Mossel Bay South Africa

Surfers congregate at the Point where there is always a great vibe with restaurants, those beautiful clapboard houses (yes, we are jealous as ours was not allowed to remain at The Bakke!)

Surfing at Mossel Bay South Africa

Swimming and diving are enjoyed at the Poort which is a natural pool surrounded by rocks and pounded by heavy seas at high tide. St Blaize Lighthouse stands guard hi8gh above on the cliffs. Built in 1864 it is now fully automated but still manned with a staff complement who ensure ships safety around this coast. Cape St. Blaize is so-named because Bartholomew Dias and his crew first landed in Mossel Bay on St. Blaize’s Day (3 February) in 1488.

Another childhood favourite was the Harry Giddy Park in Marsh Street. It always looked huge to me as a child and the slide was ENORMOUS! It scary me to death and I don't think I plucked up courage to go down it on too many occasions. Today the park has a small plastic slide - no longer the stuff of nightmares. There were a number of families in the park when we visited so it's great to see that the tradition has survived. First laid out in 1887 it was re-vamped in 1940 by Harry Giddy and is so mane to this day.

Tortoises, geese and ducks, birds, goats etc will all amuse the kids and they can let off steam in safe surroundings - even if the slide is a fraction of the size of the monster of my dreams! My memories of the park remain as a beautiful oasis - it is maybe not so well-kept now but still a good place for kids.




A number of the "old" retailers have survived but one has to wonder for how much longer they can withstand the onslought of the malls where families now shop in the hundreds.

Mossel Bay remains a town with charm - sometimes it is not immediately apparent but stay awhile and you will feel you are slowly winding down to the relaxed pace of this much loved seaside village!

The Pavilion Santos Beach Mossel Bay South Africa

The Point Mossel Bay South Africa

Fishing at the Point Mossel Bay South Africa

Tidal Pool The Point Mossel Bay South Africa

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

New Zealand - North Island

New Zealand - North Island

Romantic notions of New Zealand are always conjured up by the title" Land of the Long White Cloud"
In Cape Town, the long white cloud means the South Easter is blowing, covering our beloved Table Mountain with it's table cloth, so hang onto your skirts and have a jacket on stand-by for the chill that permeates the air!

Nonetheless, this description of New Zealand just begs to be explored so we decided on a 3 week trip to see for ourselves this "Long White Cloud". Myth or were we just lucky? I hope it was the latter!

Landing in Auckland late at night after a very long flight, one would have thought we would have been exhausted? But no, we were too keyed up to sleep! Luckily, there was a 24 shop just opposite of our downtown hotel, so we stocked up on a sandwich and started to plan the days ahead.

After a decent breakfast the next morning, we headed to the ferry and Davenport. This North Shore suburb is host to the New Zealand Navy and also boast many interesting shops and restaurants. We admired  the views from North Head - quaint old timber houses with corrugated iron roofs still exist here. Next was a trip up Mt Victoria, the highest volcano on the North Shore at 87m. The views are glorious and there is a peaceful atmosphere. A quaint area just a short ferry ride from downtown.

Our bus ride to Kelly Tarton's Underwater World was entertaining as we could eavesdrop on the locals reminiscing about the "good old days" whilst feeling sorry for the current youth who have it quite tough!  Could that be us talking in 30 years time? Kelly Tartons is fascinating! We took a ride in the ice to see the King and Gentu Penguins - so freezing cold - I would not survive in those sub-zero temperatures! The complex has to make approx. 3000 kg of snow daily to ensure that these penguins have their "usual" habitat. A conveyor belt takes on on a ride between huge tanks filled with sharks, eels, stingrays, and myriads of fish. It's very well done and certainly worth a visit.

We did an organised day tour which included a drive through the America's Cup Village which was very interesting, then on to Mt Eden which is the highest natural point in Auckland and offers views all round. We were taken past the most expensive street in Auckland - but I must be honest and admit that Auckland is not the most attractive of cities in my eyes. A harbour cruise finished off the tour but again, we would have been better off taking a ferry to some interesting point as the commentary was barely audible and the lady doing the snacks/refreshments spent most of her time on the bridge!

 Auckland is known as the "City of Sails"and has a vibrant sailing fraternity. The city also hosts some of the major ocean races such as the Volvo Round The World Race during their stop-overs. A must see for any visitor whether a sailor or land-lubber, has to be the Sky Tower. It dominates the city and at 328 m is the tallest man-made structure in New Zealand.  The views stretch forever on a clear day and if you are truly brave (or crazy!) try a Sky Dive! Seeing these dives on TV is scary enough and I was certainly not going to attempt it! OK - Chicken, I know! There are many "learn English" places dotted all over Auckland to cater for the large Asian community living in the city. We enjoyed a lovely meal at one of the waterfront restaurants and discovered that our waitress was from Wales so James could have a good old natter. Truly a small world.

Our own self-drive tour gets us up early and anxious to be on our way in our nifty little red Ford. The traffic heading into the city is non-stop and we travelled about 40 kms out before seeing the green countryside. The city seems to go on forever and ever...it's huge and sprawling.

Our first exciting stop was for the Waitomo Caves, also known as the Gloworm Caves. One gets into a boat and it is pitch dark and eerie. I was freaking about us getting lost in the maze of tunnels until I realised that the boatman was holding onto an overhead rope so we were safe! The glow worms are in their thousands on the roof of the caves and these little lights are so spectacular one just wishes for time to slow down so that their glow can be absorbed even more. The silence, the lights, the dark water - all make for an amazing experience. The worms  make approx 4 threads hanging down from the ceiling to catch the insects that come in from the river. So when they are hungry, they just reel in the food! Wish I could do that! The Waitomo Glowworm Caves were first explored in 1887 by local Maori Chief Tane Tinorau and over a hundred years later have been handed back to the descendants of this family. The Glow Worms are unique to New Zealand. As with everything in NZ, there has to be some sort of exciting dare-devil activity and here one has the Black Water Rafting company to take you on a never-to-be forgotten  abseil, weave, jump and glide experience! We exited the caves through an arch in the cliffside which was just magic.

A walk up the hillside gave us great views over the valley and we were followed all the way by some twittering birds - it was uncanny as they followed us all the way down again and then flew off. They left us at the very spot where they first joined us - most odd but it made for an interesting walk!

Our first taste of Maori culture came in the form of a show at the hotel ion Rotorua. I fell in love with the Maori music instantly - it has a haunting quality that just pulls at the heart-strings and I was smitten from the first song. The dances with the poi look so easy and graceful but must be difficult to do. Poi is the Maori word for ball and this is a form of juggling where these balls are swung around the body to form different patterns and shapes. When the balls are lit by fire, it's even more thrilling. Great as an exercise for those who want to take up something very different! The Maori guys look very fierce especially when they wriggle their tongues. That's scary - these huge men with their monstrous tongues waving at you. Ugh!!  Many dances are very graceful and beautiful and the Maoris have a proud culture and most haunting music. Maori costumes are made from flax and natural dyes and one can find out more at the Maori Institute and Thermal Reserve.

Bubbling mud pools and spectacular geysers are proof, if one requires any, of Rotorua’s volcanic background. Thermal activity and throbbing mud pools, with clouds of very hot steam rising, amidst a very strong sulphur smell, mark this city of Rotorua quite uniquely. At the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Reserve we enjoyed a 40 min walk around all the exuberant, smelly pools - it scary to think that perhaps you could throw your most hated enemy into this boiling hot cauldron - a witches delight! But thankfully, those were only my dark thoughts - they New Zealanders are more civilised than that!
The "Lady Knox" erupts daily but is helped on it's way by adding some soap powder to the mix. Sorry to disappoint but that's modern tourism for you!

New Zealand is synonymous with sheep - they are everywhere so a sheep show is another must see. We enjoyed one in the Agrodome in Rotorua where we were introduced to 19 different breeds of sheep. Can that be possible? They all look the same to me at a distance - maybe some are whiter than others! We were also enthralled by a very energetic display of sheep-shearing. The sheep shearers of New Zealand are a tough bunch and they are also very competitive - who would want to shear 700 sheep in 9 hours straight? Only a Kiwi! Some of the sheep used in the show are stars in their own right and one was prone to stomping his feet as if to say " leave me alone, buster" The sheep dog displays are incredible - these dogs obey orders instantly and know just what to do with a errant sheep. My highlight was feeding a little lamb with a bottle - no wonder I don't eat lamb anymore.  Such a cute little mite!

Our drive down to Wellington was very pretty and pleasant but the hotel, Abel Tasman was not too great. However, the city was bursting at the seams due to a rugby match so I suppose we had to be grateful for a bed. The breakfast must have been the worst of all in NZ. Wellington stole my heart - it's a beautiful city, albeit very, very windy. It's a very pretty city and the views from Mt Victoria are lovely. Our cable car trip to the Botanical Gardens was passed in delightful conversation with an ex Scottish lady who was very willing to chat and tell us of her longing for bonnie old Scotland. However, with children and grand-children in NZ, she was there to stay. The gardens cover 25 hectares and were first established in 1868. We enjoyed a leisurely walk amongst the trees and plants, partook of some lunch and then descended again in the cable car. A night time drive to Oriental Bay showed up all the city lights and we reluctantly headed for bed eventually.

The morning dawned windless and clear so the ferry ride to South Island was not too bad.
Thankfully for my motion sickness! Having seen the wind buffeting a plane tryng to land the previous day, I was so nervous about this ferry crossing but it seems my guardian angel took pity on me and all was well.

See you again on South Island!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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UK - Ellesmere to Llangollen on a Canal Boat - Going slowly!

Everybody I have ever met, who has done one or more canal boat trips, simply raves about the slow pace of life to be enjoyed on a narrow boat in the canals of Britain. Did I believe them? Not entirely! This is something that has to be experienced - it is just incredible how one slips into the slow pace of travel and it has to be one of the most relaxing ways for a "slow down and smell the cows" type of holiday. Although the experience was not totally stress-free - getting a narrow boat through a narrow bend with another one approaching from the other side, is STRESS!! Especially when the man steering seems to be intent on a head-on collision! Or waiting to go through a very dark tunnel only wide enough for one boat.... or going over the high aqueduct with no room for error........or getting the locks working quickly enough so that the boat does not get damaged.......who said there was no STRESS???? It's one of those myths that circulate the world!!

We arrived in Ellesmere the night before we could collect our narrow boat and stayed in the Red Lion. It's an ancient hotel which was not very clean but the pub restaurant was very busy with a funeral tea and later with many patrons for supper. They also have an over 60's Club so appear to be well patronised by the locals. The rooms are obviously not their main source of income. An interesting experience and a good people watching pub! Ellesmere is a tiny, friendly village with a lovely walk along the lake where you can watch the swans swimming along so gracefully.

We checked in at the Marina but had an awfully long wait before the boats were ready and then another long wait for the chap to come and give us our briefing and "sample" ride. It looked so easy when he did it.........!! Narrow Boats are so-called as they are extremely narrow - we had to ditch one suitcase and lock it in the boot of the rental car as there is truly no space for bulky luggage on board. That would not be an issue if you live locally but, as we had to have summer and winter clothes for our holiday, all the way from South Africa, it was a problem. Travelling light has never made it into my vocabulary, unfortunately, and I am the very worst when it comes to packing.  

With the very late start, we had to carry on until 19.00 when it was likely that we would arrive at an overnight spot with a pub for our evening meal. James managed the very scary start on the canal with many boats heading our way which had to be dodged. Yes, you have guessed - we are total novices at this art of narrow-boating! Thankfully we reached the Jack Mytton Inn at Hindford without mishap and enjoyed a lovely lasagne with a mountain of chips. Who serves chips with lasagne?

Safely moored for the night, I was very apprehensive about the narrow confines of the boat, being extremely claustrophobic. However, I need not have worried - it's cute and cosy and we both slept very well! 

The next morning dawned and after our cereal and tea, we set off to face the first of the only two locks on this canal. STRESS again!! Would I get it right? Luckily for me, everybody on the canal was so very helpful at all times and the New Zealanders who had followed us the previous afternoon, assisted me with the lock and we got past without mishap.

The countryside is beautiful, open fields with lovely views and just the sheep and cows for company. Very peaceful but could I relax?? NO! Chirk Tunnel was upon us and at 420 m long it's dark and scary and you have to pray that no other boat enters from the other side when you are just into the tunnel yourself. It seems easier from the other direction so let's hope for the best on the return journey. 

The aqueducts were more fun as I walked them.The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (please don't ask how on earth one is supposed to pronounce that!) is 126 feet above the River Dee and was built between 1795 and 1805 by Thomas Telford (1757 - 1834) This amazing feat of engineering came out of the Industrial Revolution era and remains as a monument of a bygone era. The aqueduct is 1000 feet long and is now a World Heritage site. It stands proud on it's many pillars.

This aqueduct on the canal is busy and carries many boats across daily, some just on short day trips to view this masterpiece! It is a humbling experience - this magnificent example of fine engineering. The Llangollen Canal is a branch of the Shropshire Union Canal and is rated as one of the most scenic and spectacular of the canals in Britain and we were starting to count ourselves extremely lucky to be enjoying this experience. 

We moored on the tow path outside of Trevor and enjoyed a leisurely lunch before walking back into the village to check it out. They have a number of moorings and it's quite a busy spot on the canal. We set off again and yet more STRESS! The channels are so narrow in parts that only one boat can go at a time! So I walked along the tow path to check that nothing was coming before waving James on! He thought this was all rather fun but I must say I was very relieved to reach Llangollen and tie up in the Marina there! One has to pay to moor in the Marina and the chappie at the kiosk on the canal was very helpful. He advised us not to tie up  at that point as it was close to the highway and would be noisy. He recommended we enter the marina where it would be quiet and also close to town with water connections. So off we set, having paid for 2 days moorings. James filled up our water tanks so I could have a lovely LONG shower as we knew that more water was on hand. We had been saving water along the way with very skimpy showers as we did not know how long the water would last. Bliss!!  

We wandered into town and Caesars Restaurant caught our eye so we enjoyed a late supper overlooking the River Dee.

Thankfully, we both enjoyed a good nights rest and I was more relaxed being in an open marina with no dark tunnels, narrow channels or bends!

Llangollen is the Welsh Festival town with the Musical Eisteddfod, Food Festival and Christmas Festival all contributing to many visitors flocking to this very pretty and welcoming town.

The last steam train to enter Llangollen Station was in 1968 and then the railway tracks were left abandoned until a group of enthusiasts decided to revive the line for steam enthusiasts and this opened again in 1975. Running between the River Dee and the Berwyn mountains, this is a wonderfully picturesque trip invoking thoughts of a bygone era. The trip ends at Carrog Station and you can either return on the train or walk back to Llangollen.  

The Steam Train to Carrog is lovely, very old carriages, nearly as old staff and a fun ride. We didn't find Horseshoe Falls but walked back along the town path on the way back and saw the horse-drawn canal boats filled with tourists! In the olden days the boats would have been laden with goods. We were blessed with a lovely hot day so it seemed as if the entire population of Llangollen was out and sunning themselves in the River Dee. It looked like a day at the seaside only it was a day at Deeside! Sorry - that was far too corny.

After a day's enjoyment, we popped in for a good pub meal at the spot of the old mill. Tables are large and were at a premium given the hot day so we were joined by some hikers who had just completed the 24 hour 3 Highest Peaks Challenge - Scotland (in the snow) England and Wales. Climbing even in the dark and in such a short space of time? Crazy stuff but they were all still smiling. When a table opened up to take them all, they left us and we were joined by a lively group of 3 ladies who had just completed their 6 hour walk and were now sitting down to enjoy their drinks and some refreshments before heading off home again. They were most jolly and apparently join up once a month for a lengthy hike and drinks....afterwards! All in all, a great stay in Llangollen.

We woke to the sounds of boats getting ready to leave so we decided to fill up with water and set off as well so that we could follow them all through the narrow channels and not have to wait for oncoming traffic. I think these were all experienced narrow boaters who knew something we didn't! So at 07.30 hrs we set off - a miracle for me! I set off along the tow path and walked all the way to Trevor where James was supposed to moor up and wait for me. But he somehow missed the turning (shades of Spain??) and went merrily on past Trevor! So I had to cross the canal at Trevor and waltz over the aqueduct before I could get back onboard! Who knows if he did that on purpose? But I did enjoy the walk and the stop along the tow path in the shade with an ice cold beer more than made up for my extra mileage!

Somehow or other I was suddenly much more relaxed on the return journey and no longer stressing about anything! Perhaps it was just the unknown at first? Now the narrow bends and dark tunnels didn't phase me at all - piece of cake, I said. Just look at those novices getting stuck in the mud! The scenery is so peaceful with sheep and cows grazing, lovely houses alongside the canal, farmers fields in green and gold, rabbits frolicking in the distance and the tow path to moor along whenever the mood takes one. The farmers along the canal have an ingenious method of keeping their cows and sheep from falling into the canal yet giving them an unlimited supply of water!

 

Our next mooring was at Quirk we planned to meet up with family for Sunday lunch. The name seems to be either English corruption of  "church" but the Welsh meaning is "the moor" so take your pick! Quirk is a border town between England and Wales. We decided to explore the surrounding area and chanced upon a lovely walk through fields which ended up in Olivers Wood. This 3.2 acre of woodland was planted by the Woodland Trust, members of the community and pupils of Weston Rhyn Primary School in 1994. Named after a former pupil whose family had sold the land to the Woodland Trust, this woodland includes many local trees such as oak, ash, cherry, willow, alder and maple. It was a gorgeous spot which we came upon only by going off the beaten track.

 On the way back we spent awhile chatting to an elderly farmer who was busy fixing his stile. At 72 years old with a tractor of 40 years old, both are still going strong! A lovely gent who knew Africa and reminisced about his time there.When I politely asked if he would mind posing for a photo, he was horrified "Ooch, I dinna have me teeth in" he said - this after chatting merrily for over 45 minutes whilst keeping us enthralled with his stories! We had not even noticed he had no teeth until he mentioned the fact! But he graciously agreed to a photo - with his mouth closed! So he looks rather unfriendly in the photo but he was anything but! A wonderful interlude in Quirk.  His parting words to us were "There's no sunset like an African sunset" We tend to agree with that statement!

The next day we met the family and enjoyed a roast lunch at the "Bridge Inn"  Lovely to see them all! The leisurely pace had by now crept into our bones and life on the canal was proving to be everything everybody always said it would be. NO STRESS!!! So we meandered back to moor again at the Jack Mytton pub but first had to get through the 2 locks. Luckily for me, again, a British Waterways guy was around and happy to assist me. Again such a friendly chap who had also visited Cape Town while on a yacht race and loved it there. He now work on the canals and simply loves his job! Who wouldn't? We made a slow start to our last day and stopped on the tow path for our last lunch - it was very hot but there is always a shady spot to bring out the camping chairs, the beers and the lunch. After lunch we decided to walk into Ellesmere thinking we were not very far away!! We stopped to chat to a gent mowing his lawn at his beautiful house right on the canal. I offered to but it from him (with Monopoly money!) but he was adamant it was not for sale! With his wife still working during the week in London, he handled the household chores and what a pleasure in such a fantastic spot. He told us we still had another 40 minutes to walk. Oh my, in the heat?  James wanted to see where we had to moor the boat later so we pushed on. Once in town we headed for an early supper which ended up being an "All Day Breakfast" which we thoroughly enjoyed as we had not had eggs the entire week. The cafe was full of cat pictures and the owner is obviously very much a cat lover. A very busy and popular little cafe, well patronised by the locals. Back to the boat - I cheated and stopped at "my" canal house (the Monopoly one) then waited for James to get the boat and pick me up. George came to take us back into the Marina - he drove so fast after the slow pace we had been going at, that my eyes nearly popped out of my head. He moored us 3 deep and there it was - our last night on our faithful narrow boat! We still had some time to explore so took off along another branch of the canal which was so beautiful we just wanted to hire another boat and set off again! With a lake next to the canal it's the most perfect spot to moor up - the purple haze of flowers glinting in the sun on the far bank, the water lapping gently on the shore - oh my - it's a poets dream! There were many boats moored and I just had to stop at one, covered in tons of badges. The owners were relaxing on their chairs but came to chat to us when they saw us looking at their badges. Their boat is 11 years old, they love the life and have explored all the canals in Britain! Their favourite is the Oxford Canal. Retirement Bliss!! Except maybe in winter? The fisherman were also out and we came across one very excited chap who had just caught a bass! He wanted his picture taken so that his mates would believe him that he had actually caught this very big, prime specimen! As we has no pen or paper to take down his e-mail address, he dashed off to the next boat to find somebody with a cell phone. He was over the moon as this was only his 4th catch in as many years! All fish must be returned to the lake so he had it in a net in the water and was very mindful of it's well-being. Back on our boat, we got "shouted" at by the ducks who wanted to be fed but there luck was out as no feeding is allowed in the Marina. They sat on the roof of the boat and clacked away at us for ages before eventually going off in a huff! We had enjoyed feeding the ducks along the canal, their antics were so special as they dashed to get the crumbs we threw overboard. Our last night was very sad and even more smelly as the nearby farmers had thrown slurry on their fields! So we ended up being packed and ready to roll by 8.30! A truly wonderful trip on this magnificent canal Ellesmere to Llangollen and back. © Judelle Drake http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography                 For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa                                       www.bradclin.com Please share - if you did not enjoy this post .....Shhh - but please still share! Thanks!

  

Spain - without the Bulls!

Spain - without the Bulls

Sunny Spain beckoned for a whirl-wind tour but we landed at a freezing Heathrow and had to wait for the National Express bus to take us to Gatwick for the flight to Malaga, Spain. The BA flight was very noisy with screaming kids and I was sooooo tired. We were told to wait at a mini bus stop for the lift to the  Car Hire place but the driver shook his head at us and trundled off. So we waited! It was the correct bus so after a phone call the chap came back – very surly and not much of a welcome to Spain. The car hire place was very busy so we were handed the car and off we drove. Only later did we discover it was a diesel model.  Next came the fun part – we were on the road to Benamaldena when James decided that we had to go to Malaga!! 2.5 hrs later, after getting horribly lost in Malaga, and many phone calls to the resort we headed back the way we had come and eventually found the Timeshare Sahara Sunset Club in Benamaldena. Never trust a man with directions! They refuse to ask for help and will make you suffer for so long before admitting that they are LOST!!! The staff at the resort were very pleasant; but told me I looked totally shattered and should get to bed soon! So we ate a quick pizza in the restaurant and then collapsed into bed. So tired I did not even wake for the loo that night!! Which is a major miracle!

               
Refreshed, we awoke the next morning and headed off to find food. We found a great café for breakfast just down the road from the resort on the beachfront called “The Last Resort” The Vegetarian Breakfast consisted of egg, tomato, mushrooms, baked beans, hash browns, toast, marmalade and tea/coffee. Excellent value at E3.50 and very consistent. We returned there every day -it was so good.  As we had been travelling for so long and felt quite stiff, we decided that today was a “walking” day so off we set to explore Benamaldena. We found a lovely park, full of locals and their children, then walked further and took the cable car up the mountain for stunning views of the Costa da Sol.  We also enjoyed a raptor display – amazing birds.

The section of the Costa del Sol from Torremolinos going west to Fuengirola and including Benalmadena is characterised by high-rise tourist developments. This can be seen from the cable car. Apparently, recent developments have much stricter planning regulations than in the early days with a focus on better quality tourism.  

The mountain air was very bracing and certainly cleared away the stale aircraft air from our lungs. After the long walk down we were peckish again so walked towards the yacht club. There are lots of pavement cafes with the owners “braaing” (barbecue) either meat or fish and trying to tempt you to a table. We opted for roast beef and pork but it was very bland and, sadly, not worth a repeat visit.

Monday:

Ronda was on the agenda today so off we set, enduring a rather a torturous climb. The roads are not very well sign posted which did not help matters. Despite being Andalucía's fastest growing town, Ronda retains much of its historic charm, particularly in the old town. It is famous worldwide for its dramatic escarpments and views, and for the deep El Tajo gorge that carries the Rio Guadalevín through its centre. The 18th century Puente Nuevo 'new' bridge, which straddles the 100m chasm below, is usually the first stop for most visitors as it enjoys amazing views out over the Serranía de Ronda Mountains.

Ronda is also famous as the birthplace of modern bullfighting but we don't really like the idea of this sport so did not visit the famous bullring. We decided to take the “old Mine” tour  and went down many, many steps right to the bottom. The problem was that we then had to go all the way back up again! Good exercise if the knees can hold out!

 In the middle of the bizarre mountain range Serranía de Ronda, at the edge of a 120 meters deep and 70 meters wide canyon, there is Ronda - certainly one of the most incredible spots to visit.

The famous and really breath-taking bridge alone is worth the travel, but Ronda has more to offer: the only bullring in all Spain which is entirely made of stone, and several interesting buildings from the Moorish period.
We did not find the food in Spain very exciting - we visited a pizzeria where the food was positively the worst we have both ever tasted. Perhaps they try and please the many British tourists and in so doing, have lost the Spanish plot. 
Tuesday:
We headed out to Nerja on the N340 - although only 50 km there are lots of stop/starts with the many traffic lights and the  area is extremely built up. But Nerja is certainly worth a visit - it is well-kept with lovely, old winding streets, lots of Spanish pubs, a great beach and tons of interesting looking restaurants. After our hearty breakfast, we could not try them unfortunately. Much to our sorrow!   
With over 400 pubs and restaurants, there is a great choice and there are many other things to do in the area if one is staying longer.

The best village visited during our stay was Frigliana - what a delight. Narrow cobbled streets in this "white Village" just beg to be explored, - you never know what you will find - a pub, a shop selling interesting goods, a beautiful planter of geraniums, or a friendly soul who speaks English.

In the "new" part of the village we came across a "graveyard" next to a church. The memorials are all stacked one upon the other, with photos of the deceased, gorgeous flowers - it was a delight to view such a peaceful haven for those departed - not like so many lonely graveyards.

The streets are uphill so some stamina is required to view this town properly but it is well worth the effort. The houses are Moorish in appearance and so well kept. Its built high up on the hillside so enjoys lovely views and it must be good to live in this town. We spent a number of hours exploring before heading back to Benamaldena.

Thankfully, we did find a good restaurant - called la Taberna Santa Ana where the service was excellent and the food was very good. A little pricey for our budget but well worth it. It's is family run and has been in business for 15 years now so well established. We returned a few times and were not disappointed.

Wednesday:
After a hearty breakfast we decided that Marbella would be a good spot to visit to enjoy a swim. Oh my, the highway is pretty fast and it's so built up, that we missed the turning to Marbella and just went whizzing past! So we did a quick consult with the map and decided to head for the hills and Istan instead. It turned out to be a good choice - a very windy road with many twists and turns brought us to a gorgeous authentic Spanish village high up in the hills. We wandered around and kept bumping into a fish peddler selling his wares from the back of his van. He would stop every now and again, shout himself hoarse, sometimes somebody would come out and sometimes not! He was quite amused that we wanted to take his picture! He sold a fair amount of his sardines before we left him for a cold beer in the village square. Life appears very slow in these parts - no rush at all. There is always tomorrow! And tomorrow.....!

A swim was on the cards so we headed off to Estapona where we found a quiet local beach but the water appeared rather dirty. We did enjoy a little time out in the sun before heading back. I kept seeing these little green crosses which I took to be traffic lights (lucky I was not the driver!!) Gosh, I said, the Spanish must truly be devout Catholics to have all their traffic lights in the forms of crosses. Well, James exploded and nearly drove off the road - those are Pharmacy signs, you idiot, he said! One lives and learns!!

Thursday:
A long drive to the Sierra Nevada Mountains which I just had to visit for myself having always heard so much about this beautiful range. And guess what? There was still snow to be had on the mountain tops whilst it was blazing hot down at the coast. Two climates within a few hours of each other! The Ski village we came to must be a hive of activity during the ski season but now it was just a load of hotels, backpackers, hostels, etc all shut up tight until the next ski season. The village looks very forlorn all closed and shuttered - like a lost orphan waiting for it's mother to return. We walked up to play in the remaining snow drifts as the weather was pretty warm. Having grown up in Oudtshoorn with extreme heat in summer and chillblain cold in winter, snow is still a novelty for me as the only snow we ever saw was on top of the Swartberg Mountains, high up on the slopes with not a ski lift in sight. We certainly felt the ice-cold during winter from those mountains, which are incredibly beautiful, but offer no fun and games in the snow!

The roads in Spain are very good, mainly dual-carriage ways, fast moving but good driving. The road signs had us confused on many occasions until we sort of figured out the Spanish way of thinking. The take-over by the British on the coast has spoilt Spain to my mind - it is so developed as to be "characterless" in many places.



Friday:
With much more to see but no time left in our whirl-wind tour of the Costa da Sol and surrounding areas , we decided on a "car-free" day and set off on the walk from Benamaldena to Torremolinos. The walk along the beachfront goes on for miles, with loads of beach restaurants and bars, we heard many different languages being spoken and the area is very lively. The beaches all had the obligatory beach umbrellas, there was an area with paddle-boats which we would have loved but they were quite large and required a minimum of 3 persons to man them so we had to ditch that idea. There was quite a bit of topless bathing - James eyes were out on stalks! As you can gather, we don't have too much of that in South Africa! Beer and Tapas were enjoyed at various spots along the way and we thoroughly enjoyed the walk although it was fairly long. As I did not want to be hampered by my heavy camera, there are no photos of this area but the walk was great and can be recommended.

For our last night we decided to give all the British restaurants a miss and eat in at the resort's Casbah restaurant. The food was pretty mediocre but a singer came on and livened things up well. Two old Spanish dears kept dancing to the music and asking for more Spanish songs. Four ladies in a room across from the restaurant were dancing away with beer bottles in their hands - they were having a ball and eventually arrived at the restaurant in hysterics at their own antics! It made for a very amusing evening and kept us laughing.

It rained that night - sad to see us go? The drips keep me away all night which did not bode well for our day's travelling the following day.

We enjoyed Spain but do feel that it has lost much of it's Spanish identity as the Spaniards seem to pander to the tourists  - perhaps this is only true of the Costa da Sol? We loved the tiny villages where life seems to have stood still, the snow still clinging to the Sierra Nevada mountains and the lively feel of the Costa da Sol with it's many holiday makers. So, despite not seeming so very Spanish on the coast, it's a great area to visit and there is loads to do to keep one occupied. It was impossible to cover every nook and cranny and many folk return year after year to enjoy the sunshine, the beaches, the shopping and the many pubs and restaurants.

Hopefully, we will be back as there is still  much more to explore in this country!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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