South Africa - Hermanus - Champagne Air!

Hermanus  air reminds  one of champagne - bubbly, crisp, and so enjoyable!  Breathe
it in whilst wandering along the world-famous cliff paths. You won't be sorry and a week-end may just not be enough.

We started going to Hermanus on day trips. When my son decided he wanted to study to be a chef at Warwicks Chef's School, it was time to buy a small flat. We spent so many wonderful week-ends in Hermanus, walking the cliff paths, wandering around the many little lanes, full of interesting shops. The week-end markets always attracted many folk with the original arts and crafts on show. It was a great time - whale watching from August to October, long walks in Fernkloof Nature Reserve, walks up to Hoy's Koppie, the Grotto beach walk plus the cliff paths which stretch for  miles and give one time to contemplate and be at one with nature. The swimming is great in summer and there are a number of surfing spots.

Warwicks Chef School was a good choice and my son came top of the class. His reward was a stint with Roger Verge in France. However, this did not go quite as well as planned - having been dropped at the restaurant he then had to find his way to his lodging in the dark and not speaking a word of French. The cops eventually found him wandering, stressed and very alone in the early hours of the morning. By doing some back-tracking, they eventually found where he was staying! Not a good start to his career. He did decide to pack up cheffing after reaching the position of Head Chef at the very prestigious Singita Lebombo so all ended well. But I digress.....

After starting my B&B in Cape Town in 2004, those wonderful free week-ends came to a grinding halt - sadly. We recently spent a week-end back in the town and saw many, many changes. Hermanus has now become another "mall" town with a new shopping centre plus another in the process of being built, right next door. So the malls have reached Hermanus which may be great for the locals but, to my mind, this detracts from the cute shopping of previous years. A mall is a mall, is a mall and you can shop at the same stores all over South Africa. Once inside who knows where you are - Rustenburg or Canal Walk or Hermanus? It's called progress. The little villages in the country are getting harder to find and I suppose progress is natural and welcomed by most. It is still a town with the best whale-watching, the best air, gorgeous beaches, an exciting vibe during summer, pleasant winter walks and good, if perhaps now boring, shopping!

The Craft Market on the square is currently more formalised with permanent structures so goods stay dry, restaurants are numerous, some better than others, the whale crier can be found blowing his kelp horn when he spots a whale and people are friendly. Hermanus is known to be one of the best land-based whale watching sites in the world and the hundreds of people that line the cliff paths during whale season, with their binoculars and cameras, are a sight to see and a pleasant "people-watching" experience. The oohs and aahs echo far and wide as a whale is spotted. Seeing a whale breach is an exceptional experience and well worth the wait.

Our host for the week-end was the very first Curator of the Old Harbour Museum which opened in 1972. Guy Clark was appointed in 1973 and spent many years working on his passion. The harbour buildings have been restored, old fishing boats are lined up, bokkom stands still exist and it's a slice of history that has been well-preserved. Now it's Provincial Heritage site label is well deserved. The Easter Passion Play is held annually in the Old Harbour and attracts thousands of visitors.

Rotary Way is reached by turning left as you enter Hermanus and this drive offers the most wonderful views of Hermanus. An icy wind is often blowing up here so dress warmly and venture out of your car to survey the layout of the town and see the beach at Grotto stretching for many miles.

Another view-point, albeit slightly lower and smaller, is Hoy's Koppie which is now smack-bang in the middle of town (courtesy of the mall!) The path up is quite steep but allows for good exercise and offers great views over the town. The grave of Sir William Hoy and his wife have possibly one of the best grave view sites in South Africa and one can only wonder at their final resting place in such a scenic location.

Fernkloof Nature Reserve is a hikers paradise with many paths for various fitness levels.


Again gorgeous views over Hermanus, beautiful flora and exercise!!! Who could ask for more?


The Hermanus Municipality is not very kind to property owners who are heavily penalised if they dare to let out even one week of their holiday cottage. Business rates apply if one's property is let for just one week of the 52 week year whereas property owners who let their units out for 12 months of the year to locals, are not subject to business rates. Discrimination?  Very much so and rather off-putting for investors looking to save for a retirement option.


During the peak of summer, Hermanus town centre is sometimes a best forgotten place unless you want to jostle for parking, which is mostly paid. However, with the new road system, you can by-pass this congestion and head out towards the beaches via another road.

Despite the town's rapid progress from a small fishing village, it is still "must-do" place, especially in whale season.  Active folk will not get bored with so many activities on their doorstep, and the town appeals to a broad spectrum of people from all walks of live. Be as busy or as lazy as the mood takes but breathe in deeply - you won't find this brand of air anywhere else!!!!

 

I met an interesting and versatile artist packing up his incredible shop - things perhaps to slow for artists in this town now? They have a mall, after all!! The artist was heading off to India to "find himself" and what better place to do so? I wish him the very best of luck and hope that his artistic talents find a lucrative and self-satisfying outlet.

Hermanus history goes back to the early 1800's when farmers from Caledon trekked by ox-wagon to spend the summer at the seaside. Good fishing and the famous "champagne air"  meant that even Harley Street doctors prescibed a visit to Hermanus as a great place for patients to convalesce.

Hermanuspietersfontein became too cumbersome and the name was changed to Hermanus in the early 1900's. The Marine Hotel was buit in 1902 and was well patronised by the English gentry of that time. The hotel has seen many changes but is still a landmark today. The Windsor Hotel was originally a sanatorium for wealthy overseas convalescents. William Hoy decided that he did not want the railway to extend to Hermanus from Bot River so he managed to block progress on that front. The Hermanus Station was therefore "trainless" and now forms part of the new shopping precinct.

Trust me, the champagne air is world-renowed and you will feel much refreshed after some time spent in this lively town.

Hermanus has progressed from the early 1800's but still retains the beauty in the surrounding mountains, the lovely beaches and the charm is still evident in this "must visit" seaside town.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Waylands Flower Reserve, West Coast

Waylands Flower Reserve - Floral Beauty West Coast

(August & September) 

West Coast Flowers need the sun to show off their delicate beauty and today was just the right day for flower viewing with bright blue skies, a moderate wind and brilliant sunshine. We decided to visit Waylands Flower Reserve which is outside of Darling on the West Coast. Delicate and tiny flowers need to be viewed close by and the fields of yellow, white and mauve flowers make an appealing sight for city dwellers cooped up in offices all week long.

This 80 ha reserve is purely seasonal and is supposed to host around 300 species of flowers. It was turned into a reserve in 1922 by Frederick Duckett and the road was built in 1952 by his son. Cattle and sheep graze here during the summer months and in autumn they are moved elsewhere allowing the flowers to grow and bloom for their brilliant display in August and September. The animals are returned to the reserve after the flowers have all died off! An amazing conserservation effort which has been ongoing for approx. 140 years - hats off to the owners of this land that it has been allowed to remain as a West Coast gem and that the stunning flora of the region has been allowed to grow undisturbed. Displays do vary depending on good rains prior to flowering.

There was heavy rain on Friday so the reserve was very wet in many places - have you ever got slurped down a mud hole? It's quite a crazy feeling - whoops, the shoe goes down and you are stuck! Whip it out and carry on only to go down with a huge slurp and sucking sound - this time even deeper so that your shoe has vanished! Oh Sh.... and I still have to go to a restaurant for lunch? I haul my right foot out of this deep mud and slowly venture forth. No - the mud has not given up on me yet and down I go again. By this time, I feel like a royal idiot and start looking around for spectators. Luckily everybody is too far away except for a couple who are looking at me in amazement. What is she doing? So very slowly I venture forth again and whoops, another hole and even more mud. I must say at this poiint that these holes are not visible and the earth looks fine until you step on it! By now I am feeling like a total idiot so VERY carefully I try and aim for dry land.

Once back on the path I have to explain my muddy state to all the friendly people along the road - their kids are cleaner than I am.

It's a topic of conversation anyway and I hope my shoes will recover in the wash tomorrow!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Hemel & Aarde Valley - Hermanus Wine Route

Hemel & Aarde - Hermanus Wine Route

Wine Lovers, photographers, food-loving people, this valley is truly worth a visit. 

This valley, named Heaven and Earth, is a magical place which runs for about 6.7km amidst truly beautiful vistas with many wine farms along the way. The road eventually reaches Caledon - however, the wine route only extends as far as Seven Springs. 
The weather was not great on the day we visited - still worth it!

The valley is famous for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and has been likened to North France because of the clay soil and ocean breezes.

If you really fall in love with the valley, there are homes for sale at a price!

The route starts at Hermanuspietersfontein Wine Shop where you can also enjoy a Saturday Market between 09.00 and 13.00 hrs. Their farm is closer to Stanford.

The "Wine Village Shop" at the start of route R320 is truly a "library" of wines and they are open 7 days a week with free wine tastings. If you can drag yourself out of there, then head off up the valley! Make sure your credit card is handy.

Next up is Southern Right, Hamilton Russel, Ashbourne, Bouchard Finlayson, La Vierge, Sumeridge, Newton Johnson, Restless River, (that name just resonates with me) Spookfontein, Ataraxia, Creation, Mount Babylon, Jacob's Vineyards, Domaine des Dieux and Seven Springs.

As with any wine route, one has to choose as it is impossible to sample all the wines in one day unless you are looking to be locked up in the Hermanus cells till a Monday morning. Sort of difficult to explain to your boss why you won't be at work? So take a stab at the names and choose 1 or 2 farms to stop at.

We decided on Hamilton Russel - a beautiful and tranquil setting, overlooking a dam. With a roaring fire inside the tasting Room, on a cold day, it was a good stop. Tim Hamilton Russel purchased the property in 1975, his son, Anthony Hamilton Russel took over in 1991 and purchased the estate in 1994. HR only do Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and the wines are not cheap. Their  "Southern Right" label is less expensive.

Our next stop was Sumeridge Estate. The Tasting Room is impressively set within the stone-clad walls of an long, regal looking building. They also have a cosy restaurant for light meals, with outdoor seating during summer.  

By now, we were feeling somewhat peckish so decided to try out Mogg's Country Cookhouse for an authentic Hemel & Aarde experience. This restaurant is tucked away off the main R320 - signposted though and don't be put off by the dirt track and tiny building. The dogs will greet you and lead the way to the door which could be tightly shut on a cold day. This restaurant was taken over 17 years ago by a mother an daughter team and they have very obviously succeeded in getting the mix right. Cosy and warm and very busy after a 2 week holiday, they were rather phased by the tripping lights but the problem was sorted out promptly! Artist influence can be seen in the painting of fowls adorning the doors and walls plus many other displays of talent. The Pine cone ceiling was apparently in place when they purchased the restaurant and this adds another quirky feel to the place. With a mix of tourists and many locals (judging by the conversations) it's a successful venture and one we can highly recommend. The food was good, the service attentive and the ambiance just what we needed.

There is certainly enough on this wine route to keep everybody happy and being so close to Hermanus, it is an ideal day out when visited the seaside town. In summer, it's an escape from the crowds on the beach, in winter, what could be better than some roaring fires, wine tasting and valley cooking?

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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Bloggers are not NERDS!!!

Who said Bloggers are NERDS??? Well, I suppose that is debatable when we spend so much time writing about ourselves and our travels in the hope that somebody out there will enjoy our ramblings and perhaps even "follow" us on our travels. Or, better still, make some nice comments!

Blogging started in the late 1990's and was mainly used by individuals up until as recently as 2009.
For many the journey started as an online diary for friends and family and perhaps to ease the concerned families whilst their offspring went back-packing all over the globe.

Today blogging is a buzz word that has everybody wanted a slice of the pie. And why not?
It's fun, you get to share your experiences online with many people in various countries and maybe, they too, will be inspired to travel more and start their own blog. It's the way of the future and personal experience of a country is always better to rely on rather than a rather boring and factual guide-book. Don't get me wrong, guide books play a very important role in travel and I doubt they will ever become redundant but reading a number of blogs about a destination you may want to visit, gives you a first-hand account from people of all walks of life and these stories are shaping the Internet.

I was privileged to be able to attend the 2nd Getaway Blogging Conference held at Upper Eastside Hotel in Woodstock, Cape Town on 04/08/2012 and I can only say "WOW" Blogging has become a profession for many bloggers who have been blogging for 4 years or more and they are lucky enough to be able to travel to many wonderful and inspiring destinations. Amazingly, I learnt that there are International Blogging Conferences held. Time to start saving.......!

Being a "newbie" to blogging (only just a year now) I was enthralled by 4 International bloggers who had been invited to Cape Town by Cape Town Tourism (see what I mean - expenses paid by somebody else!!!)

Keith Jenkins of Velvet Escape - who is unashamedly into luxury travel. Keith is based in Amsterdam, Netherlands and started life in the banking sector. He was not entirely happy with his life and this sector collapsed in 2008, ending his career path. His love of travel and photography started him on his journey of blogging and he has made a huge success of this.

Nellie Huang is a tiny slip of a girl with a passion for adventure so her blog, Wild Junket, focuses on all things linked to crazy adventure stuff. She lives with her husband in Spain, WHEN they are home, which is not often. She was a pleasure to talk to with a bubbly personality.

Matt Long of Landlopers (this is Afrikaans for Land Walkers!) - the English meaning is an "adventurer" which is what Matt professes to be. Very truly American, I am sure he has inspired many Americans to get out of their "USA is bigger and better than anywhere else" mode and start travelling to different parts of the globe. Even if USA is "bigger and better" there are other wild, beautiful, freezing, over-populated, under-populated, or just plain "wow" places to be explored and enjoyed. Having been to USA from San Franscisco right up to Seattle, along the West Coast, and New York on the East, with its endless noise and bustle, Cape Town CBD did look VERY tiny on my return home, so I can relate to the Yanks thinking "bigger" but not always better!

Melvin Boecher has made a name for himself with his very popular web site, Travel Dudes. Apparently, this started after a 3 month journey to Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. Their web site is extremely informative and a passion has turned into a thriving business.  Melvin is very much into Social Media and rattles of words like Facebook,Twitter, Instagram, StumbleUpon, Google+, Pininterest, Flickr. Where does he find the time for all this???

All 4 of these international travellers kept us enthralled by their stories and made my feet extremely itchy to get out there and do more.

There were numerous other speakers who shared their expertise - it was total and overwhelming brain overload - yet so great to be part of something that is exploding today on the Internet. Maybe our stories will outlive us all and become a small part of history.

With my passion for photography, which is an ongoing challenge and always needs improvement, I hope to satisfy the childhood dream of becoming a journalist by rather becoming a better blogger. The journalist "thing" no longer excites me but travel does and sharing makes the experience live on in my memory forever.

Technology has advanced so fast and so quickly in the past few years, that it is a challenge to keep up with all the modern terms - one wonders who came up with the term "Blog" and "Blogger"
We are living and breathing our own history and it is changing minute by minute in this fast-paced realm of the Internet where information is live within seconds and can be shared world-wide. This connectivity can be an extremely powerful tool if used in a positive way. Travel Bloggers are surely the most positive, happy and friendly people - who travels to be miserable?? This connects us to others  and spreads goodwill around the globe - with great results. Perhaps the politicians need to take some lessons in how to spread good cheer and well-being without any bribery or corruption, something rife in many countries today. 

I now wear the badge with pride - even if I am still a rank amateur - I am proud to call myself a "Blogger"!!!!

If you intend visiting Cape Town, you can support me in my "work-to travel" day job of running my "Bradclin Portfolio Accommodation" business by booking with us - every night booked means that my next travel plan gets a tiny, little step closer..........!!!

We love guests nearly as much as travel so that means we would truly love having you to stay!

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Please join me on my journeys by becoming a "follower" on this blog and by "liking" our web page and Bradclin Portfolio Facebook page.

You can also tweet at @bradclin1

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

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South Africa - Stanford - Old Timer Village

Forget about a "Time Capsule" blasting into the future, think 1930's and Stanford, just 23km or so from Hermanus, in the Western Cape, comes to mind, A place where you need to "land" for a relaxing look  into the past.  We all struggle keeping up with today's fast-moving technology - tablet meant a pill for a head-ache when I was growing up -  now it is a sophisticated piece of computer equipment, small enough to fit into a hand-bag. Gone are the days of those huge rooms which were required to house the "computer" ! We don't want to go back to those times as we all love the modern technology - my favourite being my Kindle. However, for peace and quiet and a step back in time, Stanford is well worth a visit.

This village has the Klein (small) River running through it and there is a pleasant, short trail along the river. Do look out for the dog pooh as the local residents don't seem to "poop scoop" You can canoe, swim or just laze by the river during summer. The "African Queen" offers cruises down river with a minimum of 20 people. The source of the river is in the Hemel-n-Aarde Valley, just outside of Hermanus and the river winds its way along mountains before reaching Stanford and then flows 15 more km towards the Hermanus Lagoon. Birds, apparently are frequent - it was perhaps too cold on our visit to see many. The feathered kind, that is.

The town is named after Captain Robert Stanford who was born in 1805. He bought a farm in this district and was very successful until 1845 when many Irish were banished to the Cape after the severe famine and failed rebellion. Captain Stanford heeded a call for mercy for the Irish who had been at sea for over 5 months. Unfortunately, the Stanford family was severely ostracised for his actions. This resulted in the death of one of his children as the local doctor refused medical care when called upon. It seems barbaric that a doctor could turn a blind eye to a sick child, but he did just that. Stanford returned to England to put forward his case and this resulted in him being knighted and receiving a pay-out of 5000.00 pounds - a huge sum in those days. However, on his return to SA he found that his land had been illegally sold and his farm no longer belonged to him. The family returned to the UK where Sir Stanford died a pauper in Manchester at age 70.  Not a tale to be proud of and a sad beginning to a town which is so "olde worlde"

The Village Green is still just that - a huge piece of land surrounded by
'old" houses. One can just imagine a game of cricket on a lazy summer afternoon! Dating back to 1785, the Green is still used for events and markets.

The old-fashioned way of getting water to all the houses, still exists in Stanford and this is called "lei water" (water that is led or water lead).The sloots (furrows) run along the road and are controlled by small sluices - one is usually advised of the time of your "turn" at the water. As a child we had the same  system in Oudtshoorn and I remember my father having to get up at 03.00 to water the garden as water was so precious in the hot, dry climate of our town. He always cursed but never let a "water-lead" go by. It was more than his life was worth!

Stanford has a number of art and antique shops - worthy of a browse - who knows what you may turn up. We loved the art displayed on the pavement - amazing works for those with enough money to buy!

There are a number of restaurants in Stanford and surrounds - we choose @Art for a warm and inviting atmosphere with the walls adorned with art works. Great pizzas made in a wood-burning pizza oven and a number of chalk-board Sunday Specials. Good value for money.

The village was declared a conservation area in 1996 and this has preserved many buildings; some of which date 100 - 300 years old. The charm of the village is best seen on foot so take a slow walk along the streets of the village to admire the old achitectural styles of yesteryear. The pace of life here slows you down so much that you may not want to return to the hectic pace of the city. For myself, the country is great for a visit and some much needed R&R, but give me the city lights any time.

We did not have time to visit the Birkenhead Brewery or the Cheese Farm where picnics came be enjoyed during the summer months.

A spot certainly worth a week-end or more. Bring your cycles, your binoculars, your fishing rods and your credit cards!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Worcester and Surrounds

A small-holding in the fresh country air sounded like a great idea so off we set on a week-end meander to Worcester and surrounds, about 2 hours from Cape Town. Firstly, take the old road over Du Toits Kloof Pass - it's a very scenic road over the mountains and does not add more than about 12 km to your journey plus you save on the Toll Fee for the tunnel. My love for mountains is inspired by growing up in the Oudtshoorn valley where my eyes rested on the magnificent Swartberg Mountain range every time I walked onto our large veranda or into the garden.

Our stay was on a small holding, which bordered on a wine farm, so we took long walks down the farm road, followed by a friendly black Scottie dog. We saw many ground squirrel holes but no signs of life although our little friend certainly did loads of sniffing and most probably drove them further away down the hole for safety!

 Our first outing was to the Karoo Desert National Botanical Gardens. This garden is at it's best during springtime when all the vygies and fynbos flower and create a stunning display. There are lovely views over towards Worcester, picnic areas on the lawns and a hiking trail around the "koppie"  Unfortunately, the folk of Worcester are not the "eating out" types and the restaurant at the entrance to the gardens has closed down. So we would not recommend a visit to these gardens unless it is springtime with all the lovely flowers blooming. The gardens  are also quite difficult to find - it seems the Worcester residents are not too keen on tourism and are quite happy with their status quo.

The Quiver Trees are large Aloes which flower during the winter months. These trees are normally found in very arid regions such as Namibia, and the Northern Cape, often in rocky habitats. The flowers attract nectar seeking birds such as sun-birds and mouse birds. It's a succulent plant which can store water in it's trunk and leaves for those harsh periods when little or no rain falls in the desert.
The San people used to hollow out the branches to use them as quivers, hence the English name for the "Kokerboom" tree.

The wild grape is another interesting plant found in the gardens - these are about 25 years old and were grown from seed gathered in Namibia.

Our next trip was via a dirt road through Eilandia region in the direction of  Robertson.  A very scenic drive through farmlands.

Robertson was very busy and will be another visit (it seems to have more going for it than Worcester!)





We had to find the Conradie Family Cellar before close as we had orders from Cape Town folk! This family vineyard is situated in the Nuy Valley, at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains, and the farm has been in the family since 1871. It is currently run by a fifth generation winemaker who took over wine making again in 2004 after his grand-father last produced in 1964. A proud tradition and award winning wines are now currently on sale.  The Nuy Restaurant and Guest House is situated just across the road and we were after a light lunch. Although there were many cars parked in the parking area, nobody was around to assist us and the restaurant was all beautifully set with nobody in sight!! Another disappointment! But at least we had the wines safely in the boot! By now we were starving after just muesli for breakfast so we headed off towards the Willow Creek Olive Estate and Deli. Guess what? The restaurant was securely locked and barred and even the lady in the next door Deli said " Gosh, they did not even say good-bye!!!"

So off we set again with stomachs rumbling and getting grumpier by the minute. With all the wine farms around but no food? One cannot live on wine alone. Although some make argue with me on that point. The charming lady in the Deli recommended Overhex Wine Cellar for lunch so off we set once again.

Over-Hex was OPEN - HURRAY - FOOD IN WORCESTER!! We managed to secure a table outside in the brilliant sunshine and enjoyed their home-made burgers. For the beer lovers - they don't have any so be warned - only wine. The burgers were very filling, tasty and the service was excellent so this restaurant certainly gets my vote. The menu is very limited but, hey, they serve food and they were OPEN!!! Apparently, their Sunday lunches are very popular and the inside seating looks welcoming and cosy. 

Tummies filled, we set off to see if there were still autumn leaves in the wonderful Hex River Valley. It's not very far from Worcester on the N1 and the valley is simply incredible.

Hex River Valley is world-renowned as the biggest producer of table grapes in South Africa. It also hosts the biggest pre-cooler in the Southern Hemisphere. Grapes need to be transported to their markets so, in order to do this with minimum damage, the grapes need to be pre-cooled before being packed and delivered/shipped etc. The De Doorns Cellar also has the longest harvest season in the world. The Matroosberg Mountain is the highest mountain peak in the Western Cape.
Originally, there were 6 farmers granted land in the Hex River Valley. Today this has been sub-divided into nearly 150. The valley is just row upon row of vines with the staff housing dotted on the edge of the fields. It was a sunny Saturday afternoon and we saw loads of children happily playing, women and young girls chatting whilst walking between various farm housing, the elderly sitting in the sun  - the sad part was also many drunken men staggering around. We spotted a "Temporary Shelter for Abused Children" - no doubt caused by drunken parents. It's such a shame to see this in a valley which is appears so scenic, tranquil and calm.on the outside. Many of the farm workers houses boasted spanking brand new solar panels for their hot water and, with the mountains surrounding them and the amazing autumn colours on the vines, one would think it was a little slice of heaven. Maybe not for those who dream of escaping the confines of the valley.

For hikers and bikers, there are numerous trails in this part of the world - for photographers, the Hex River Valley is a dream. For those looking to eat out at funky restaurants all week-end, as an escape from the home kitchen, forget!! You will have to travel to Robertson, McGregor or Franschoek.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Walk to Kleinplaas Dam, Red Hill, Simonstown

As Capetonians, we are very lucky to live in a city that truly has it all. Cosmopolitan, vibey, stunningly beautiful and with so much to do no matter what you favourite pastime may be.

NB: Please take care when hiking - go in a group or contact a local hiking club for up-to-date Safety Information.

For those who enjoy a ramble in the winter sunshine, try the lovely, easy walk up to Kleinplaas Dam.
Built in 1964 to supply water to Simonstown, the wall was extended in 1970. It was built on the site of the Klein Plaats farm hence the name "small" dam. With lovely shining white beaches, its an ideal stop for a picnic or paddle. You can continue your hike from the dam - there are various paths and you are likely to see the odd horse being ridden along here or taking a welcome drink from the dam!

Accessible from Red Hill, Simonstown, you will first pass the deserted Red Hill Village which was forcefully abandoned when Simonstown was declared a "Whites Only" area under the apartheid government. Apparently the residents of this village removed doors and windows when they left - and who can blame them? It has been the site of a Land Claim and payments of approx. R14,000.00 were received by previous residents in 1989. Originally, a small farming village, the broken down ruins must hold many stories and memories of tears and laughter. It's a peaceful, quiet spot - an ideal place for a growing family to run free as birds. Sadly, only the ruins remain, a remnant of our chequered history.

This walk offers many spectacular vistas, amazing rock formations and even the odd cave or two. In springtime, the fynbos will be blooming and offer different scenes yet again.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Ceres - Two Passes Sunday Drive

Ceres conjures up images of Ceres Fruit juice, autumn colours and snow-capped mountains! We did a  leisurely drive towards Ceres, first going up the Michells Pass. This is the southern entrance to Ceres and the pass was built by Andrew Geddes Bain, with completion in 1848. Our first stop, on a cold morning, was at the Tolhuis Restaurant where were sat in front of a blazing fire and enjoyed delicious freshly baked scones with cheese and jam! The Tolhouse was a pay point for all traffic to the Kimberley Diamond fields and was declared a National Monument in 1972. Standing in the midst of the mountains with a disused railway line heading into the unknown, one can just imagine the many wagons rolling towards the rich pickings of Kimberley Diamond fields. The lonely ghost of the Tolhuis is a lady with a long plait, swirling robes of another era and is seen from time to time. Apparently she is not an evil ghost but rather a lost soul who has not yet been able to abandon the area. Maybe she was waiting for a lover to return laden with diamonds and he was ambushed and killed on his way back to her? Perhaps she died of a broken heart or influenza waiting for so long in the cold of these mountains. Or maybe she was murdered by one of the many convicts used to blast out the pass. Who knows? It's rather sad that she has not found her way out of Tolhuis to a better, warmer place.

The Ceres Valley is truly a valley of fruitfulness - with it's deciduous fruit production, you can do a tour to watch fruit packing and the drying of fruit, or stay over on a working fruit farm to experience it personally. During November to December, you can enjoy cherry picking on Kondyke Cheery Farm.The valley also grown onions - not quite so interesting!

Our next pass was the Gydo Pass which is the Northern entrance to Ceres, The views are spectacular across the Ceres Valley and with autumn colours in full bloom, a carpet of various shades of red lay before us on the valley floor. This pass links the Warm Bokkeveld with the Koue Bokkeveld.

Whilst taking a photo on the way down, we heard an almighty bang and discovered a motor-cyclist had come off his bike and was lying in the road. The Police were on the scene before we even got down the mountain and the ambulance was not too far behind. The chap seemed able to move his legs so maybe his pride was hurt more than his body. We hope so! Rather an abrupt ending to his ride from Cape Town on a sunny Sunday. One wonders how he got his bike back home?

We headed next towards Tulbagh. This valley was first discovered in 1658 by European settlers. The town was developed in 1743. A major earthquake in 1969 ruined many buildings and 32 of these in Church Street have been restored and are now all National Monuments - the largest concentration of monuments in any one street in South Africa. The town hosts an annual Christmas in Winter Festival which brings in many week-enders. Given the extreme heat in summer, a hot Christmas dinner is not ideal in Tulbagh! Church Street was very dead when we arrived so after a short stroll we headed back home to our week-end B&B in Riebeek Kasteel. To be honest, Riebeek Kasteel seems to have more action on a more regular basis than Tulbach, but maybe we just chose the wrong day! Empty restaurants do not appeal and the one we did walk into had no serving staff visible so we walked out again. However, there are wine farms to visit and it is a peaceful village if you are looking for some R&R time. Church Street is certainly worth a wander with many of the monuments now B& B's.

Heading back towards Riebeek Kasteel we took a gravel road from Gouda - truly in the country! We came across a wonderful old, single lane bridge where we stopped for photos  Whist standing on the bridge a solitary car came past and the occupants stared at us as if they could not believe what they were seeing - a white couple walking??? Unheard of! Then they nearly drove into our car parked on the other side of the bridge! Oh well, that was their Sunday afternoon's excitement. In these farming communities, thew workers are often very drunk by Friday night and the party continues until Sunday. One has to take care as they are often staggering across the road. many pedestrians are killed in this manner, especially at night when it is difficult to spot a staggering drunk. During the week, these same workers are a friendly bunch and will always give a smile and a wave!

One could spend far more time in this area than we did - this is just to whet your appetite to go exploring - take those gravel roads - your car can always be washed afterwards!

As they say "Going Nowhere Slowly" is sometimes simply the best!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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South Africa - Riebeek Kasteel, The Village Atmosphere

Riebeek Kasteel, one of the hidden treasures of the Western Cape, is only an hour from Cape Town and transports you back to a slower pace immediately as you drive into the village. Imagine the glorious sight that welcomed the first explorers to this valley as early as 1661 - with wild game roaming free it must have been a sight to behold and a picturesque valley just waiting to be farmed.
The town was laid out in 1900 and has retained it's village atmosphere to this day - let's hope it stays as welcoming and rural  - a perfect getaway for a slow week-end or a lazy Sunday lunch.
The Main Street appeared on a map as far back as 1861 and was a route towards Tulbagh. The current square was designated already by 1911 as a market square and today it is lined on both sides by restaurants and interesting shops.

The Allesveloren farm was granted to Gerrit Cloete in 1704 after having first served as a VOC outpost. This wine farm is famous for it's red wine, port and restaurant where families and friends can gather for a leisurely wine tasting or lunch. Make a stop!

Klovenburg is another wine and olive farm granted to Jan Botma is 1704 and still producing today.
The valley is also known for it's olives and an olive festival is held each year. The village gets packed so be sure to book your accommodation well in advance. The variety of tastes are incredible! The Olive Boutique is open all year round if you miss the Olive Festival week-end.

Just don't try picking olives straight off the trees - they are so disgusting and bitter that you will spit them out faster than you picked them. So theft is not an issue! The various secret recipes for the brine make the olives unique and their tastes many and varied.
For the more energetic there are cycle routes and hiking trails - be sure to get your permit from the Tourism Office and enjoy the views from the top of the Kasteelberg Mountain which dominates the scene above Riebeek Kasteel.

The Royal Hotel - this beautiful, old Colonial hotel is the oldest in the Western Cape and has the longest "stoep" (veranda) south of the Limpopo! One is truly transported back to a bygone era when visiting this hotel. Pop in for a drink at the 150 year old bar or enjoy lunch in the gardens. Bikers, expensive cars, passing tourists - you name it, this hotel has visitors from all walks of life - just don't try to play on the old piano on the veranda - with keys yellow and stained, it's another relic.

Chat to the locals - you will be amazed at their friendliness and their stories. Who would think that a very down-to earth estate agent is also a  passionate wildlife photographer? Not like some "sell at all costs" ones that I have met in my life-time! His stories and photos are incredible and he will also find you just the right house or plot for your retirement or week-end retreat. Check out his unique window to the world in his office, especially on a hot day when he opens it to let the Valley breeze blow in!
The Wine  Kolletive sells wine from the smaller farms who are not open to the public and it's well worth a visit for wines you won't find elsewhere. The chatty lady on duty loves living in the valley and mentioned our late friend, Keith who was (small world!) her neighbour for awhile.
The quote below is Keith's interpretation of the "Valley Wave" written for the SA Navy News where he served for many years as a Warrant Officer. Our friend was always able to chat to everybody and knew most of the RK residents within a few weeks of moving to the village! Keith's lovely wife, Barbara, took ill shortly after moving to the village and never truly got to enjoy her new home
Such is life and we miss them both.

"Shortly after moving to the sleepy village of Riebeek Kasteel in the Swartland, I was introduced to a phenomenon called “the village wave”; a simple form of greeting that takes numerous guises and is practiced by all and sundry. The wave could be an arm shaken about vigorously out of the car window, or it could be the flick of the wrist, a simple finger casually lifted off the steering wheel or even a slight nod of the head. No matter in what form it takes, a villager never ignores a passer-by, a passing motorist or a couple strolling hand in hand around the streets, peering into shop windows or admiring all the beautiful gardens, irrespective of the registration number of their car. So, do not be caught off guard next time you experience “the village wave.” It is our local interpretation of a naval salute! "

Another "must do" on the 1st Saturday of every month, is the Funky Fresh Market in Riebeek West, a VERY short drive from Riebeek Kasteel. Again, an interesting collection of people selling jams, bottled fruit, fresh breads, bacon and egg rolls, vegetables, plants, herbal remedies, homemade lemonade etc. Did you know a bubble will appear and rise to the top of an upturned jar of pure honey? Try it!
The pancake ladies were from Malmesbury and it was their first time of trading  - they are from a local church in Malmesbury and all their profits are going to charity. The pancakes were lovely and sold with a smile. Most stall-holders are also very good sales people so don't try to escape without buying something. The herbalist from Mooreesburg very kindly gave me his lemonade recipe which we hope to try if I can find the piece of paper I wrote it down on! Sadly, I think the paper fluttered away somewhere as did my Lotto tickets. So well hidden that maybe they will both surface in a year or so....! Or maybe somebody has cashed in on my winnings already?

There are numerous restaurants so one is spoiled for choice - you certainly cannot go hungry or thirsty in this village. With an interesting mix of names, take your pick! Bar Bar Black Sheep, Cafe Felix, Eds Diner (check out the vintage cars and bikes!), de Jonge Cafe, Kasteelberg Country Inn (Allan Barnard - Radio Personality) Fat Cat's Kitchen (ice cold beer!) and Aunti Pasta to name a few.

Our hosts in the Valley are originally from UK and landed in Cape Town after months of a round-the-world trip when their children left home. They loved Cape Town so much that they spent 6 weeks relaxing in the city after their travels before heading back to UK. The South African lifestyle and sunshine had left their mark, however, and they were back here to settle. Looking around, they decided on a small farm in the valley, converted the existing house to a B&B and now have a very active social life after the weekly farming or B&B duties. With olives, grapes and baby marrows (currently) and 2 gorgeous Ridgebacks, they have settled in well!! The younger dog took us for a walk around the farm and was determined that we would follow. Luckily, she did not cross the Berg River on that occasion, as they apparently do on a regular basis, as it runs past at the bottom of the garden! It's certainly brings new meaning to "it's a dog's life" Forget the bad connotation to this saying - here it is pure heaven - a river to swim in, miles of farm to run in, food provided and guests who can be taken for walks! We loved the outlook towards the mountains and the sight of the many trains rumbling past as this is the main Cape Town - Johannesburg line. So when you are next on the Blue Train, give a wave to the Valley!

The farm has various olive trees, such as Mission, Coratine, Leccino, Frantoio and Kalamata and they produce cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. the olives are hand-picked at just the right stage of ripeness and pressed within twelve hours of harvesting. So look out for the "Riebeek Valley" Olive oil with the Fish Eagle on the logo.

Take some time out to relax away from the daily stress of the city - do remember to give your own "Valley Wave", enjoy the fresh air, the Shiraz wines, the olives, buy some olive oil, enjoy the quirky shops, the friendly locals and the relaxed atmosphere.

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

New Zealand - South Island

New Zealand - Oh so scenic, South Island

Ferry crossings can be a nightmare for those of us who suffer from motion sickness but luckily our trip, from North to South Island was fairly calm after a very windy day in Wellington the day before. We collected our next rental car and set off towards Christchurch, the gateway to South Island and the 2nd biggest city in New Zealand. The drivers seemed to drive faster here than on North Island where we sometimes felt we were hardly moving, being used to the long, straight roads in South Africa. I think the Germans would have difficulty sticking to the speed limits in NZ given their very fast driving on their autobahns! A happy medium would be great - not so slow but not quite so fast either. The route from Picton to Christchurch is mainly farmland with sightings of sheep and cows plus some twisty roads to keep one awake.

Our visit was prior to the huge earthquakes that hit Christchurch in 2011 so we were lucky to enjoy the beauty of the city before this huge disaster struck. The city is being re-built and our favourite spot, Cathedral Square should be opened again later in 2012.

A Punt Ride along the River Avon is a must. Started in 1986 as a tourist attraction, these Edwardian Punt rides are a 30 min leisurely punt along the river and one feels under-dressed in jeans or shorts! Where are those beautiful long dresses that were worn so long ago? Christchurch is known for its beautiful gardens and the river banks are pretty and the punters interesting. Rugby, and all sports, are favourite topics of conversation with any Kiwi and with many links to South Africa on the sports front, James was never at a loss for conversation openers! As a Teddy collector, what better to buy than a NZ Rugby teddy who now holds fort in the lounge whenever rugby is viewed on the TV. As it is on most Saturdays in our winter....!!

We met an interesting chap from Turkey on one of our tours around the city - he was telling us that his very first apartment in Toyko was mere 10sq m. It seems unbelievable but living in Toyko where space is at a premium and expensive, he most probably just had bed and loo space! He admitted that the Japanese are work-a-holics but do like to travel so he was in NZ organising schedules for Japanese tourists.  One hopes that he has become very successful and that his apartment is now much bigger!

The TranzAlpine to Greymouth is a superb ride and an experience not to be missed. Unfortunately we ended up with a coach full of kids on a school outing who were so noisy we could not hear ourselves think! We MOVED!!

The train crosses the Canterbury Plains and follows the Waimakariri River then climbs via a series of viaducts into the Alpine regions. The scenery is spectacular and one just wants the rail journey to go on and on. Arthurs Pass has the cutest little station and this area is great for nature lovers, hikers, snow boarders, mountain climbers etc as the mountains are right there. The children also got off at this point - HURRAY!  The next experience is chugging through the long Otira tunnel (about 14 mins ride - 8.50 km) after which the train starts descending through rain forests and eventually onto the West Coast and Greymouth. 

Greymouth is the largest town on the West Coast and was known for it's coal and gold mining. The River Grey runs into the sea here and it is indeed a wide and grey river! Forestry took over as a major industry once the gold mining declined and fishing also plays a role in the area. Greenstone, a form a jade is also found in this area. The return journey to Christchurch was even more scenic and rather jolly as we had some rather merry Kiwi's plus an Aussie who kept us entertained with their antics after maybe one too many drinks in Greymouth! The local beer from Monteiths Brewery (established since 1868) may have been the cause! There were a number of signal faults on the way back so we were somewhat delayed.

Queenstown - what can one say? Lake Wakatipu is truly beautiful and Queenstown must be one of the prettiest towns around plus it is THE place to be for any sort of action sport. The younger set flock here as do the families on skiing holidays. It's a bustling town, small enough to wander around on foot in the centre. We met an ex South African lady who landed in Queenstown on a skiing holiday over 20 years ago, settled and married and loves the town. She could still pick out our South African accent and it was great chatting to her about her life in NZ. It is always interesting to hear stories from ex South Africans. A teacher friend who applied for a "cleaning" job just to be employed until he could find a teaching post, was told he was not "qualified to clean" What sort of qualifications does one need to clean? Mind-blowing! Luckily, he did eventually obtain a teaching post.
We took the Skyline Gondola which is the steepest cable car lift in the Southern Hemisphere and offers spectacular views over Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu - it's just one of those "must do's" The Bungi jump is fascinating to watch (if you can't pluck up the courage to do it yourself!) and the screams of those hurtling down can be pretty chilling. However, all the jumpers seem to enjoy the thrill - just take your dentures out first as you may well lose them on the long way down!! If you have any, of course.

Arrowtown, built on the banks of the Arrow River saw a gold mining boom in the 1860"s when gold was discovered in 1861. By 1862 the town had 1500 miners camped along the river. Approx. 340 kgs of gold was escorted out of the town in 1863. The boom did not last too long and most minors moved on by 1865. The town has preserved many of the old buildings and it's worth a wander to soak uyp some history. If history is not your passion, there are numerous walking/hiking trails from Arrowtown. If skiing is your pastime, the ski slopes of Coronet Peak (20 mins) or the Remarkables (45 mins) will give you that much needed enjoyment on the slopes. With long opening hours, you can impress friends and family with your skiing expertise or just take time out on the beauty of the mountain. Night skiing is available July to mid September on Fridays and Saturdays.for those who need to catch another run before dinner!

If you spot a car with no ski racks in this part of the world, you will realise that the occupants are crazy South Africans who have no clue how to ski. Who skis in sunny South Africa? Not many people - we sun-tan and spend time on our glorious beaches! I must say, I did feel rather jealous of the ease in which some skiers came flying down the slopes - it looks so effortless! But we did also see many limping persons so it's not all effortless and pain-free!!!

Queenstown Gardens beckoned us on a beautiful, warm afternoon. These gardens are beautiful and the views are spectacular. With tennis courts, bowling green, ice hockey etc, they are a focal point for local activity. The founder of the gardens was born in Haverford West, West Wales, much to James' delight. The Welsh sure do get around!.
 William Gilbert Rees, the first settler and founder of Queenstown arrived with his family in 1860 by whaleboat. A  plaque in the gardens is dedicated to him.

A drive to Kelvin Heights showed us some stunning properties running right down to the lake. With barbeque's and boats visible, this seems a wonderful lifestyle in one of the the most scenic areas of the world.

If you want to view the sights where "Lord of the Rings" was filmed, take a drive to Glenorchy. This area is also spectacular and offers much in outdoor activities for the energetic. Be prepared to find some gems stuck in the middle of nowhere. We found an artist who had recently returned from living both in London and Johannesburg, South Africa. Whilst working as a beautician, it seems art and New Zealand life called her back to the family farm and her lively border collie. We enjoyed lunch at a cafe in Glenorcky which filled up rapidly - perhaps due to the sunny day.

South Island is an endless stream of stunning scenery and outdoor activities - the beauty of one's surroundings are such that one wishes the sun would never set - then our eyes could feast for hours on end on the landscapes. It's something that has to be experienced - it's a photographers dream. Our next trip was to Milford Sound - this meant a 05.30 start - horror of horrors! The road is very windy, breathtakingly beautiful and we did a number of stops (with many other coaches!) If you want a more peaceful experience, try Doubtful Sound. We stopped for breakfast in Te Anau, the 2nd largest lake in New Zealand. The largest lake is Lake Taiupo in North Island with Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown being the 3rd largest.

Milford Sound is extremely beautiful and we went right up to a number of waterfalls and saw seals swimming around in the crystal clear water. Unfortunately, we shared the trip with a large group of Japanese tourists who could not stop jabbering very loudly, the kids were running riot and this spoilt the calm and peace that should have prevailed in this awesome fjord. Even with this irritation, it was well worth the early morning start!

On last leg of our journey we took the Alpine route us to Wanaka across the mountains. Along the West Coast there are many rain forests, the area is lush and green, the beaches are deserted and it seemed like we were the only folk around. We stopped often for walks amongst this verdant greenery, to admire the many ferns and trees before reaching our stop for the night at Fox Glacier. The hotel seemed deserted so we headed to a local cafe which was buzzing and lively and turned 3 tables while we were there. Quite a feat in such a small place. A decadent Mud Pie completed the evening!

Fox Glacier is fed by four Alpine Glaciers, is 300 m deep and it runs for approx. 13 km to the coast. A "walk" up the glacier is a must but be warned. It's not a walk - it's a hike!! For the very fit, yes maybe, a walk. After donning extra socks and boots, we set off uphill. I was drenched in sweat in no time, despite the cold. The leader refused to allow me to bring up the rear so everybody had to walk at my pace. I felt rather embarrassed to be holding the fit 20 yr olds up, but what the heck, the brochure did not elaborate too much on the fitness level required. Once we reached the ice, we had to put on our crampons for the walk down the glacier. Glaciers are always so beautiful with their deep blue crevices ( don't ever attempt this without a guide) There are many rocks on top of this glacier so it looks black and is not as pristine looking as the Athabasca Glacier in Canada. Our guide was very informative, as fit as a fiddle and very accommodating with my speed - or lack thereof!!. All in all, it took us 3.5 hrs - great exercise even with my back muscle in spasm from lifting a heavy suitcase the  previous night.

Lake Matheson is a mirror lake and offers many beautiful reflections of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman, the highest peaks in New Zealand. Formed about 14,000 yrs ago by the retreating Fox Glacier, this lake can be circulated in about 1.5 hrs. The organic material from the surrounding forest gives the water it's dark brown colour. The reflections are world-famous and grace many place mats, posters, photographs and paintings. You do need a windless day though!

Gillispie Beach was reached via a stunningly beautiful rain forest with amazing bird calls, peace and tranquillity. The West Coast of NZ  has so much rain that the foliage is incredible but perhaps living in  this area is not so great when you are in it every day! We just loved the forests, ferns and birds but would not enjoy rain, rain and more rain throughout the year. It's a great journey though and certainly worth a visit. Gold was discovered here in 1865 but it was never the most successful of mining operations and many of the mining machinery relics can be seen in this area. There are also graves of  about 17 persons who died between 1867 and 1896. These early pioneers were a hardy lot and could most probably teach us a thing or two today, living as we now do in comfort with all mod cons! The stories would be amazing - so much history in such an isolated place.

Our last drive was over Arthurs Pass, very twisty and windy and interesting as we had done this on the Trans Alpine Train earlier. We reached Christchurch all in one piece, having survived the Glacier climb and the sparsely populated West Coast. Our friends managed to find a physio for my, now aching incredibly, back and  full marks to the NZ health system. As I had injured myself lifting a suitcase in New Zealand (my own stupid fault!!) I did not have to pay anything for the ultra-sound treatment. I was treated with respect and have only praise for the NZ system. My back improved dramatically and we were able to set off on the last leg of our journey to Sydney, Australia.

South Island is truly beyond words - the adjectives just do not do justice to the spectacular scenery so if beauty talks to you, visit South Island New Zealand. It's a photographers dream, a place of mystical beauty and a truly spiritual journey. The adrenaline junkies are well catered for so this island offers it all.

Young or old - there is something for everyone.

Book your tickets now!!!

© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Please share - if you did not enjoy this post .....Shhh - but please still share!

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