South Africa - East Coast Road Trip - Cape Town to Morgan Bay

South Africa has a stunningly beautiful coastline, just waiting to be explored.
So we made this our focus for our 14 day journey, travelling from Cape Town (Western Cape) as far as Morgan Bay (Eastern Cape) One can, of course go very much further but we were tied down by time constraints.
 

Our first stop was in the coastal town of Mossel Bay - one of my favourite childhood seaside holiday places. Mossel Bay is blessed with a number of restaurants serving fresh fish. My favourite is the Mossel Bay Sole. Light and tasty and served on a bed of stir-fried veg. Totally delicious!

The Cape St Blaize Lighthouse is well worth a visit as it was first lit in 1864. Full automation only happened in the mid 70's.
The views from the lighthouse seemingly go on forever, either across the sea or over the bay towards the other coastal villages.

The Natural Tidal pool at the Point is very deep during high tide, perfect for diving. At low tide, perfect for the smaller folk!

Santos Beach is Blue Flag and offers safe bathing and long walks. The Santos Pavilion is one of  two Victorian Pavilions still in use today. It was built in 1906 and the deck offers great views for drinks or meals.

For the adventurous spirit, there are many options in the town such as the cape St Blaize Hiking Trail (13.5 km one way) or Shark Cage Diving.

A more sedate outing is the trip to Seal Island on the Romanza.

 Mossel Bay still boasts some original stone architecture in the town - truly beautiful.
Walking around is the best way to experience the heart and soul of this coastal village,

And for the antique lovers, there are a number of fascinating antique shops just waiting to be explored. Stocking just about everything and anything from yesteryear, its a treasure trove just begging to be explored!

Mossel Bay - Antique Shop

 See also previous post on Mossel Bay
http://www.travelsnippets.co.za/2012/04/mossel-bay-summer-memories.html

 Whilst there are many small holiday spots along the coast to explore if time permits, our next stop was Knysna. This town is well know for "The Heads" the lagoon exit to the sea. The treacherous entry caused many a sailing ship to meet its doom! You can do trips to The Heads - most vessels turn around before they meet the waves!

Featherbed Nature Reserve hugs the southern head (trips available) and the northern head has palatial homes. Do take the scenic drive and walk to the view points for incredible views over Knysna and its lagoon.

Now what idiot would really climb on this barrier? I suppose it's possible despite the VERY steep drop down below! Trust me - it is a SHEER drop!

This yacht looks like a toy from up high - it ventured just a little further before turning around back into the sheltered waters of the lagoon.









Plettenberg Bay

Robberg Plettenberg Bay

Monkeyland at the Crags, Plettenberg Bay

 Our afternoon hike was in Robberg Nature Reserve, situated 8km south of Plettenberg Bay on the Garden Route. This reserve is also a national monument and World Heritage Site. Rocks from this region date back 120 million years to the break-up of Gondwanaland and evidence of middle and later Stone Age in habitation has been found in a few of the caves along the peninsula.




We were so lucky to see "surfing" dolphins!
These wonderful mammals continued to display their surfing skills for what felt like ages and it was an incredible sight to watch.

Birds of Eden at the Crags,Plettenberg Bay

Suggestions if you are fit!
 1. Walk to The Gap and back to the car park, round about 2km.
2. Walk to The Witsand sand dune and down to The Island and back round about 4km.
3. The round trip via The Point is 11km and takes four hours or more. Not recommended for
young children/elderly/those with dicky knees or a fear of  heights.

 

Plettenberg Bay 

 Plettenberg Bay has numerous attractions such as Monkeyland, Birds of Eden, Jukani and, my personal favourite, Tenikwa.

The beaches are awesome for low tide walking or swimming in summer.

It's a great town with plenty to keep one occupied.





Our next stop was in Storms River.
You could be fooled into thinking that this quaint village is set in a time warp! However, there are many adventure activities available in and around the Tsitsikamma for the adrenalin junkies.
An absolute must visit is Marilyn's Diner where they host an Elvis and Marilyn Munroe collection, complete with a Pink Cadillac!
With the jukebox pounding out Elvis oldies, it truly feels like one is way back in the 60's!
See previous blogs under Eastern Cape for further details

The Boardwalk Casino and Entertainment Centre Port Elizabeth

 Port Elizabeth boasts lovely beaches and a beachfront promenade that is well used by locals and visitors alike.

Known both as the "Friendly City" and the "Windy City" it remains a cool place to visit.

The City Centre is best explored on foot and has an interesting history.

If you want to get to know Port Elizabeth on personal level, take on the five-kilometre trail that follows in the footsteps of the 1820 Settlers. It links no less than 47 national monuments and historical sites in central Port Elizabeth and is named after the acting governor of the Cape Colony at the time, Sir Rufane Donkin. Whether you like historical tours or not, this trail includes some fascinating facts about the area that will enlighten you about the city. Points of interest along the trail are signposted with information boards, making the trail very easy to self-navigate.

My favourite Hotel in Port Elizabeth, Humewood Hotel.
Not pretentious, ideal position and old fashioned hospitality within a modern environment.











 The lovely part of travelling is finding an unusual spot for lunch. The Sandbar Floating Restaurant in Port Alfred pushed all the right buttons for a lunch time beer. And watching the locals drive up in their boat to buy themselves some beers and food for their trip upriver was rather fun! 

  The Highlander Pub, a Scottish pub at the Royal St Andrews Hotel offers good pub food while the Wharf Street Brew Pub is housed in an historic building on Wharf Street (mid 19th Century).
 Owner, Braam offers a delightful menu for evening dining or one can just pop in for a pint from the Brewery housed right next door!

Coral Tree - Kenton on Sea and Port Alfred

These beautiful Coral Trees are known for their bright red flowers and coral like branches.

One can walk for miles in the beached of Port Alfred - good exercise to counter all those wonderful meals.

Lovely beach walk at Kenton on Sea

Kenton on Sea offers some lovely beach walks and we decided that this rock formation was to be dubbed " The New Hole in the Wall"

"Referred to as “the jewel of the Sunshine Coast” and sometimes as “the place between two rivers”.  Charles Butt bought the land between the Kariega and Bushmans rivers from the Government in 1878 and established a tobacco and vegetable farm. In 1924 the farm was sold to T.H. Tilt who named it Kenton after his birthplace in Kent, England. It was subsequently sold in 1935 to Alfred Pudney who divided the land into plots.
Kenton is blessed with magnificent natural assets - ocean, beaches (one has Blue Flag status), two rivers, the Joan Muirhead Nature Reserve (preventing any development on the bush covered dunes between the rivers)".

Chintsa

Chintsa or Cintsa as this small area is know is divided into East and West, being located at the mouth of the Cintsa River.

Cintsa West has a tidal pool for swimming while Cintsa West boasts a lovely beach. 

Cintsa East

   




There are many rivers in this area so many of the beaches are divided by the river mouth.  

If I had the funds, I would have bought the local Micro Brewery, Emerald Vale Brewing Company as I so loved their Pale Ale!!!
The hotels in the area stock their brand but we were unable to purchase stock to take home.

"Emerald Vale Brewing Company crafts its beer from the best natural ingredients in a simple yet precise process using rain water, malted barley, selected hops and yeast to yield a variety of tastes"

Varieties as follows:
Pale Ale, a crisp, aromatic beer for those summer days
Gold Ale, similar to our Pale but with more body and slightly more bitter.
Amber Ale, a darker beer, with a smooth even body and a slightly sweeter toffee taste at the end.
Dark Ale, a dark rich stout style beer with coffee and chocolate tastes

We did not actually visit the brewery as only spied it while passing.
Sadly!!!! Hence no stock.
The Brewery is situated on a farm which lies between the Chintsa and Cefani Rivers.
If you love beer - STOP!!

We were introduced to the beer at Haga Haga, our next stop. The road to Haga Haga is on gravel with numerous potholes. However, it is worth the short detour of approx. 13km. This small settlement has a peaceful vibe and lunch at the hotel was most pleasant, especially having discovered Emerald Vale Pale Ale!

Haga Haga

                                                                              

Morgan Bay 
A delightful spot with many hiking/horse riding opportunities.
The Double Mouth Nature Reserve offers incredible views and is a must visit. Just don't fall off the cliffs!

Another short trail is the Bushbuck Trail.

Morgan's Bay was named in 1822 after A.F. Morgan, who was master of the royal naval survey ship Barracouta. She was part of a number of ships on an expedition, under Captain W.F.W Owen R.N, sent out by the British Admiralty to survey the coast from Maputo southwards to the mouth of the Keiskamma River.
The Cape Morgan Nature Reserve takes its name from the automatic lighthouse, which peeks out above the trees of the indigenous forest that lines the beach. The ruins of the old Titanium mine, started by Trev Miller in 1958, lie within this reserve and can be accessed from the Kei Mouth Golf Course road.

Walking the beach at Morgan Bay at low tide is totally relaxing in the clean air with the sound of the waves lapping close by.

We were lulled into sleep at night as we stayed just a road away from the sea and rocks. Sublime!

Unfortunately, we were not able to head further up the Wild Coast due to time constraints - maybe next time!

Beautiful beaches, great hikes, friendly hosts and South African hospitality!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

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Zanzibar - Island Bliss

Dhow in Zanzibar

Just the name Zanzibar has always conjured up the notion of an exotic island, the smell of spices and the lure of white sands.
Whilst the island remains very undeveloped to our Western eyes, it is a magical destination.

The warmth hits you as you emerge from the tiny airport. Luggage is stacked in a pile so it's quite a scrabble to locate your bags. Luckily our plane was rather empty so it was not a huge problem.

The road up north is fairly decent with well behaved dala-dalas. Verdant green coconut palms, hundreds of banana trees, lush undergrowth and decrepit looking shops. Very reminiscent of our trip to Goa in India except that the road is not as twisty!

The local transport, called Dala-dalas, crammed with many bodies looks unique and funny.
These are converted small lorries with two rows of wooden seats at the back, called dala-dalas (or dalas for short) and they carry passengers on local runs around town and to outlying suburbs. 
We also passed carts pulled by cows. Apparently, if the cows are used as "transport" they cannot be sold for meat. Some unscrupulous owners will try and sell them in an area where they are not known.
However, as the island is only 85 km long, this is not always possible!

The village of Nungwi has very potholed, dusty dirt roads so getting to Double Tree by Hilton is a bumpy experience and our first introduction to "The African Massage" as labelled by all the drivers. At first approach this was rather off-putting and scary - where are we headed??
The Double Tree by Hilton is behind gates and an absolute relief to see, eventually!

Our first beach walk was hot, but interesting, as we are in dhow building territory. The guys were building fires beneath their boats so we asked them why they were destroying them! The answer was that they were sealing the hulls. This happens on a daily basis with some boat or other and makes the beach walks interesting.

Sealing the dhow - Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar

The beach has numerous "beach boys" offering tours or souvenirs. Some just won't take no for an answer and this can be somewhat irritating.  We all have to earn a living somehow I suppose.

 The tides in Zanzibar are just amazing. At low tide one can walk knee deep for ages and ages. At Nungwi beach one can get all the way out to the dhows just by walking. The sea is gloriously warm!
Some of the beaches on the east coast have huge expanses of sand at low tide, making swimming impossible.

Our first tour was to Jozani Forest with a private guide who was most informative.
The roads are good in most places but driving is slow with many police stops along the way.
This brings a whole new meaning to the saying "Grease my Palm" I have never seen such slick operation before. The driver palms a note, rolls down his window, has words with the cop, if the cop is not happy about something, the driver extends his hand with the money which is not even visible, then shakes hands with the cop, who just as quickly palms the money! If all is OK, then the money goes back into the glove compartment for next time. Quite hilarious really even though totally corrupt.

Jozani Forest is home to the Red Colobus monkeys which are endemic to Zanzibar.
The monkeys live in troops of 30 - 50 and do get into fights with rival troops from time to time, according to our guide. The monkeys are free within this large reserve so watching them leap with total abandon from the high branches with such ease, is incredible. Very difficult to photograph though, as the forest is quite dense. Our guide was able to mimic the calls and so get us to a spot where there was a small troupe.


"The word "Colobus" comes from Greek ekolobóse, meaning "he cut short", and is so named because of the significant reduction in size, or complete lack of an opposable thumb in comparison to other primates. To make up for this, they have four long digits that align to form a strong hook, allowing them to easily grasp branches and climb.


Locals on the island have called the Zanzibar red colobus kima punju which means "poison monkey" in Swahili because of their strong smell unlike other monkeys. This has caused people to hold negative views of the monkey and even to say it has an evil influence on trees on which they feed, ultimately killing the trees.
They also eat leaf shoots, seeds, flowers, and unripe fruit. It has also been found eating bark, dead wood, and soil It is one of the few species that do not eat ripe fruits; it has a sacculated stomach with four chambers specific for breaking down plant materials, however it cannot digest the sugars contained in mature fruits. Because the monkey feeds on young leaves (though not limited to them), there are instances where it consumes charcoal, which is believed to aid their digestion of the toxins (possibly phenolic compounds) found in the young leaves of the Indian almond tree and mango tree"
(Courtesy of Wikipedia)


Depending on the time frame, there are walks in the forest - our guide showed us various species of trees and plants. The boardwalk in the Mangrove Forest is fascinating - with the Black, Red and White mangroves all having different root systems, its a tangle of roots!

Mangrove Forest in Zanzibar

These trees form an important habitat for many fish and crab species who live in salt water.

 For anybody who enjoys nature, this forest is a must visit - unfortunately, we did not have enough time to just wander.








Zanzibar is predominately Muslim and the females are all clothed in traditional Muslim dress.
The school girls wear cream and blue (Junior School) and the High School pupils wear white and black. Schools on the whole are without windows and are often very depressing long buildings.
Every district has at least one school and there are hundreds of children in Zanzibar!

There are private schools at higher cost in some areas.
The children all look very happy and carefree: the girls especially always seem to be giggling at something or other.






Stone Town 
Heading into the city one gets the feel that the tranquil beach scenes are far behind.
Everybody is bustling along, cars are everywhere vying for a parking spot and there are many pedestrians. The local people do not like having their photographs taken and the unfriendly looks are enough to put one off anyway. This is so different to the people of India who simply love have their photos taken and would ask our names and where we were from. Different cultures - different ideas - it all makes for interesting travel experiences! One gets the feeling that tourists are not really welcome in Zanzibar unless you chance upon somebody from the Mainland  of Tanzania. For us this was a little off-putting as most countries welcome visitors to their shores.

The inner city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000 and is best explored on foot.

Our guide first showed us the local market - oh my word - the flies on the fish and meat were enough to turn me into a vegetarian with immediate effect. Really, really gross and off-putting. How anybody can buy goods housed in such unhygienic conditions, is beyond my understanding. But it is a must see nevertheless as there are other goods for sale once you squeeze past the smelly fish and meat sections.

A sad site to visit is the  former Slave Market site. Just going down to the cramped quarters that housed the many slaves gave me the chills as it was so inhumane.
Whilst there was a slave trade in many countries around the world, Stone Town was apparently  one of the world's last open slave markets, presided over by Arab traders until it was shut down by the British in 1873. The slaves were shipped in dhows from the mainland, crammed so tightly that many fell ill and died or were thrown overboard. 
With a small chamber housing 50 men and a slightly larger one housing 75 women and children,
this underground chamber sent chills down my spine and I could not wait to get above ground again.
Slaves were apparently tied to a tree then whipped with a stinging branch to test their mettle.
Those who did not cry or faint fetched a higher price at market.
An Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ was built on the site and the former whipping tree is marked at the altar by a white marble circle surrounded by red to symbolise the blood of the slaves.
The man (Mr Steere) who wrote "A Handbook of the Swahili Language: As Spoken at Zanzibar" in 1885, is buried behind the altar of this church.

The life size statues, sunken in a pit in the grounds outside, bear chains and are a grizzly reminder of a bygone era.

Slave Market Site Stone Town

Being a mainly Muslim community, there are 53 mosques, whose muezzin cries vie with each other at prayer time, 6 Hindu Temples (we saw a Jain one) plus one Catholic and one Anglican church, all in Stone Town.


The Old Fort, was built around 1700. It was used by the Arabs to repel the Portuguese. In the 19th Century the fort was used as a prison and a place of execution. The old fort is now a cultural centre where there are classes in drumming, henna painting, Zanzibar cooking and there are drama and music performances in the open air theatre. There are many shops and a restaurant inside and at night there are often Taarab, Ngoma (local styles of music and dance) or movie nights.

The House of Wonders was unfortunately closed for renovations. However, a little greasing of the palm would perhaps gain you entry if you are willing to risk the building falling on your head! We preferred to retain both our money and body parts.

Stone Town

Stone Town

 Spice Tour:
Zanzibar, the Spice Island!
Zanzibar got this handle a result of being one of the world’s leading producers of spices such as clove, nutmeg and cinnamon in the 19th century. Today, cloves are still exported.

Cloves are known in Zanzibar as the king of spices and cinnamon as the queen.
The bark of the cinnamon tree smells simply divine and nothing like the packaged variety in our supermarkets.The leaves and roots of the tree are also used – to treat stomach problems and as a decongestant. The seeds look like slim dark acorns.
Peppercorns come in black, green, white or red - all the same but just at different stages of maturity.
The vanilla is a creeping plant with dark green pods. The plant must be pollinated by hand using small sticks. The island lacks a specific bee found only in Mexico, so for each vanilla bean that is produced, hand pollination is required—making vanilla production on the island very labour-intensive.The pods turn yellow, are picked and then left to turn brown in the shade.
The lipstick tree fascinated me as the red from the berries looks just like lipstick when rubbed on the lips! This fruit is also used in red curries.
The tour concludes with a guy climbing a very high coconut palm tree and coconuts are given to those who would like to drink the milk.
Our gifts were amazing - woven hats, a watch, a ring and a lovely oval basket to store our spices in.
All beautifully woven in next to no time.

The red of the Lipstick Tree!

...

Zanzibar is all about beaches, snorkeling, diving and just enjoying the powdery white sand and the gloriously warm water. So with this in mind, we took a tour of the East Coast beaches. The villages are very basic, often with no running water. It seems a harsh life in such a verdant land where crops grow in abundance. One surmises that services should be provided by the government for basics like electricity and water? Seems these have not yet reached all of Zanzibar?

The low tides on the island mean that runners and cyclists can go forever on the beaches of the East coast. This is not great for swimmers though as one would have to walk for ages to get to deep water!

When we first booked at Nungwi Beach, we could not understand why the blurb said "swimming is possible at low tide" Now I can understand the concept as the tides have such huge variances. Thankfully, one can swim at Nungwi during low tide although it is still somewhat of a trek! On the East coast beaches, this really is not possible.

For those looking for an unusual dining option, there is the Rock! Whilst the food reviews are not great, getting to the restaurant at high tide, means getting into a dhow! At low tide, one can just walk to the stairs! It's a funky concept and worthy of a photo at least!

The Rock Restaurant Zanzibar

Paje beach is windy!!!
Which makes it great for kite surfers but not so pleasant for sunbathers. It appears to be a lively spot during season - rather quiet out of season though as the swimmers would prefer some of the other beaches on the island.

 Impressions of Zanzibar:
Villages are soooo very basic and not very picturesque

The local women are very traditional in their Muslim dress code which is very colourful

Women fish in their clothes in Nungwi using nets and sticks
The dhow making industry is alive and well in Nungwi
Dhows and fishing methods are still traditional in this modern world
Low, low, low tides!!!
The "Beach Boys" are very persistent which becomes rather irritating
Cows and donkeys still used to transport goods on carts
Dala-dala's are the order of the day for transporting locals - always crammed to the gills!
Flies are everywhere! Apparently not in summer though.
Sunsets are glorious
The weather is superb if you love being warm!






Another spot to visit is the small Turtle Aquarium in Nungwi
Info below courtesy of Zanzibar Travel Guide

Mnarani Natural Aquarium

"Hawksbill turtles have traditionally been hunted around Zanzibar for their attractive shells, and green turtles for their meat. In 1993, with encouragement and assistance from various conservation bodies and some dedicated marine biologists, the local community opened the Mnarani Natural Aquarium (open 09.00–18.00 daily).

In the shadow of the lighthouse ('Mnarani' meaning 'place of the lighthouse' in Swahili), at the northernmost tip of Zanzibar Island, the aquarium was created around a large, natural, tidal pool in the coral rock behind the beach. Originally set up to rehabilitate and study turtles that had been caught in fishing nets, the aquarium project expanded to ensure that local baby turtles were also protected.

Turtles frequently nest on Nungwi Beach, and village volunteers now mark and monitor new nests. The resulting hatchlings are carried to small plastic basins and small concrete tanks at the aquarium where they remain for ten months. By this time, they have grown to ten inches and their chances of survival at sea are dramatically increased. All bar one of these turtles are then released into the sea, along with the largest turtle from the aquarium pool. The one remaining baby turtle is then added to the pool ensuring a static population of 17 turtles.

In September 2005, this equated to four hawksbills (Swahili: ng'amba), identified by the jagged edge on their shell, sharper beak and sardine diet, and 13 seaweed-loving green turtles (Swahili: kasakasa). The aquarium manager, Mr Mataka Kasa, keeps a log book detailing all eggs, hatchlings and releases. On 5 June 2005, the sanctuary released its first tagged turtle, as part of a worldwide monitoring programme.

In spite of the aquarium being little more than a glorified rock pool, it's fascinating to see the turtles at close quarters. Further, the money raised secures the project's future, and goes towards local community schemes – in a bid to demonstrate the tangible value of turtle conservation to the local population. With luck, this will lessen the trade in souvenir shell products and ensure the species' survival.

On a practical note, when timing your visit, the water is clearest about two hours before high tide (Swahili: maji kujaa)."

Turtles in Zanzibar

 We loved our short stay on this island - it's an interesting mix of old traditions, combined with modern hotels catering to the ever expanding tourist trade.

Good-Bye Zanzibar!

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

South Africa - West Coast

Jacobs Baai - West Coast

The magic of the West Coast lies purely in it's coastal villages as the road is rather boring getting there.

A favourite of mine is Jabobs Baai (Bay) - this tranquil spot offers some lovely walks along the coast that are not strenous but very scenic. Breathe in the pure sea air whilst meandering along the footpaths. The sound of the crashing waves on this rocky coastline is balm to my soul and has an amazing energising effect.

If you are feeling peckish either before or after your walk, pop in at the small restaurant for a coffee or some nourishment.










Another glorious spot for walking, at low tide, is the Langebaan Lagoon. One can walk from the main parking area, where all the beach restaurants are, right up to Friday Island, which is a beach bar and restaurant. After your walk, just sit and watch the waves, the fishermen, the surfers or the kids having fun on the beach!

After all the walking, maybe some bird watching is in order? Take a drive into the West Coast National Park where there are a number of bird hides. There were lots of beautiful flamingos this time - unfortunately, my lens is just not big enough to photograph these gorgeous birds.

The White Cottage on the hill is well worth the stop as this has now been restored and houses a very interesting collection, under glass, of the history of the area.

Kraal Bay is a must, if only to gaze longingly at the houseboats moored on the lagoon!





Geelbek Restaurant offers delicious teas and meals with friendly service.

There are many other villages to venture into - see a previous blog for further info.

http://www.travelsnippets.co.za/2012/01/west-coast-magic.html

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Avontuur Estate - Wine and Horse Combo

Avontuur Estate

Dubbed the "Home of Fine Wine and Fast Horses" this is an estate with a twist.

The Stud Farm was established in the late 1980's by Tony Taberer.
Whilst doing the tour around the vineyards, one will come upon a memorial bench to Tony who passed away in 2007. The bench is a fitting reminder of a man who loved golf, cricket, tennis and horses!

Beautiful race horses grace the paddocks whilst the vineyards command stunning views.
Situated in the western slopes of the Helderbeg mountains, the estate producers both fine wines and sires such as Var and Oratorio.





The Manor House is a National Monument and is over 100 years old.
However, this is not open to the public.

The Tasting Room is open is open daily, except for Christmas, New Year and Good Friday.
Cellar tours are available and there is a restaurant onsite.

It's a place that is of interest to both wine lovers and horse lovers.
The Stables are out of bounds though - only those horses in the paddocks are "on show" so to speak.

For further info visit:
www.avontuurestate.co.za

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com

Cape Town - Muizenburg to Kalk Bay Meander

The walk starts in Muizenburg

Do you feel like some sea breezes, ocean views, great photo opportunities, exchanging smiles with the locals and getting exercise at the same time?

Then there is nothing better that a stroll, jog or run along the coastline from Muizenberg to Kalk Bay.

It's best to get to Muizenburg early in order to secure a parking spot! This beach is hugely popular with surfers and families so parking is always at a premium.

Walking right next to the ocean means you can get wet!

If you want to start the day with an early breakfast, there are a few places in Muizenburg that serve delicious fare although usually only from about 08.00 am. If you prefer to do this before breakfast, there are many places in Kalk Bay for either breakfast or lunch.







Muizenburg is not the most glamorous of our seaside villages, in fact it struggles to maintain an air of modern times. Although there are some huge mansions on the slopes of the mountain, the village has struggled to re-invent it's charm of yesteryear, Yet the beaches are always packed as surfers and families take to the warmer waters of False Bay.

Beautiful homes along the mountain slopes

When we did the walk there were some art pieces displayed on the sea wall - these are temporary so it was just luck that we were able to view them.

Art works on the seawall

 Locals are friendly and a smile goes a long way to add to a happy experience along this meander.

St James boasts a lovely sea pool which is ever popular and the beach huts provide a burst of colour.

Kalk Bay remains one of our favourite villages in Cape Town,
It's myriad of galleries, antique shops, restaurants and the beautiful harbour, all just beg to be explored. This is one spot that you really need to take time out to visit!

Beach Huts at St James

 

View forever along the walk to Kalk Bay

 

A great seaside pool along the walk to Kalk Bay

Kalk Bay Harbour

The following information is supplied courtesy of Cape Town Tourism:
"This laid-back seaside town on the shores of False Bay comes alive in season, with holiday-makers crowding its streets as they make their way down to what is perhaps Cape Town’s nicest swimming beach.
Although Muizenberg beach lacks the dazzling turquoise ocean and dramatic boulders of beaches like Clifton and Llandudno, it is much warmer to swim here than at the beaches on the Atlantic Seaboard. It is flat, wide, and the water is generally calm – so is very child-friendly. It’s also a popular surfing spot, although the waves aren’t enormous. It is ideal for long boarding and novices.

things to do in muizenberg

Muizenberg is the ideal beach to learn to surf

There are a variety of surf and adventure operators, restaurants, coffee shops and apartments located along the main beach. Contact Cape Town Tourism’s Muizenberg Visitor Information Centre, conveniently located at the Pavillion on the main beach, to assist you to book accommodation, activities and transport. The friendly team will provide you with all the local knowledge, maps, brochures and what’s on information for any time of year. They’ll also make bookings for you at no cost.
Look out for the brightly coloured Victorian beach houses, a visual echo of a time when this was Cape Town’s premier swimming beach, and which always provide a good photo opportunity. Muizenberg is the start of a vast white sand beach that stretches all the way to Gordon’s Bay – a distance of about 40km (25mi), curving around False Bay, so named because sailors in centuries gone by often mistook the large bay for Table Bay, home to Cape Town’s harbour and V&A Waterfront on the Atlantic seaboard.

shark safety

Although there have been some shark attacks in the area that have received a lot of coverage, these incidents are statistically tiny – one or two out of hundreds of thousands of people who swim and surf here each year. The sharkspotter programme that has been rolled out at a number of beaches along False Bay had its humble beginnings at Muizenberg. Shark spotters positioned high up on the side of the mountain raise the alarm when sharks are spotted, so visitors know when it’s not safe to go in the water.

historical attractions

Behind the beach, the historic town of Muizenberg boasts the oldest building on the False Bay coast – Het Posthuys in Main Road, dating to the 1600s. Nearby, the public is invited to visit the Battle of Muizenberg site, where the British captured the Dutch colony in 1795 – a significant marker in the history of Cape Town and South Africa (call +27 21 788 5542 for more details).
Other heritage attractions in the area include Rhodes Cottage, the house overlooking False Bay where mining magnate Cecil John Rhodes lived and died in 1902 (246 Main Rd, Muizenberg; +27 21 788 1816), and which presents displays on this larger-than-life icon.
It is also worth having a look at the Edwardian-era Muizenberg Railway Station (177 Main Rd, Muizenberg). The train journey, know as “The Southern Line”, from Cape Town to Simon’s Town is highly recommended. Find out more information by contacting the Cape Town Tourism Muizenberg Visitor Information Centre or the Muizenberg Historical Society (+ 27 21 788 5542) for more historical information on the area."

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