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19 September 2012

(5) UK - Oakham Market/Museum/Castle + Clipsham Yew Tree Avenue + Hambleton Bakery




We woke up to a gorgeous blue sky yet the wind is still rather chilly! After a few days of muesli for breakfast we decided to treat ourselves to breakfast in Oakham. As we had enjoyed a good meal at The Crown Tavern on Saturday, we popped in for the mega breakfasts. Sitting at the bar was a gent enjoying a beer!! At 9.00 am? Gross! Anyway, same gent went out for a smoke but left the door open. Hating the smell of smoke, especially at breakfast time, I dashed to close the door. Awhile later, we hear this frantic banging and shout of "You have locked me out, love!" Apparently, the handle only works from the inside. Anyway, he was very jolly and said " It's all fun, love" This seems a meeting spot for the gents who are now chatting away merrily - at least one is drinking coffee! It is indeed a popular meeting spot as it is market day in Oakham and there appears to be some sort of retirement complex close by!


The Oakham Market was in full swing in the square - lovely fresh fruit and veg - 3 ripe figs (last seen when I was a child) for 1 pound, raspberries, huge banana's etc etc. One gent wanted 6 potatoes - "do you want dirty ones" asked the stall keeper. Yes, the customer replied. I must assume dirty potatoes are cheaper than clean potatoes! The re were beautiful bunches of flowers on sale plus ENORMOUS BLOOMERS!! Now who on earth would want to buy their panties at an open market?

Loads of meat, fresh fish, chef made frozen meals - a one stop Wednesday Market.




Oakham Castle is a misnomer - it's not a castle at all but rather a village hall where the court cases took place. Oakham has a very long history and was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086. That's a very long time ago! The collection of over 200 Horseshoes make the walls very different to anything seen elsewhere. An old custom decrees that every peer setting foot in the town has to donate a horseshoe to be hung inside the castle. It's like a modern "who's who" with Queen Elizabeth visiting in 1967. The horse shoes are hung upside down so that the devil can't sit inside and bring bad luck! This is the Rutland way and they are not about to change.
Rutland Museum is another interesting piece of history - it's not too big and daunting and does not take very long to go around. Old farming implements, a wonderful old Milk Cart and Bakers Van were my favourites - never seen those before. The gruesome bit was looking at the gallows - first used in 1813. The drop was too short to break the neck cleanly - how awful - and people used to watch this?

After a short break for a light lunch we set of to view Clipsham Yew Tree Avenue. The village of Clipsham is gorgeous - beautiful homes - Rutland seems a fairly wealthy area as he homes are not small and all appear well kept. We passed a family out for a ride on their horses and they all waved at us as we drove past. Whether they are so friendly to all passing cars I have no idea but it was a lovely friendly gesture and made us feel very welcome in the area!
The Yew Tree Avenue stretches way down and one walks with massive Yew trees on either side. The trees did seem as if they needed trimming - however, perhaps this is done at certain times of the year only? There were huge spider webs on the trees so it would not make a good hiding place - I shudder to think how big the spiders must be! The avenue is over 200 years old and there are approx 150 trees - most with strange shapes cut out at the top. It makes for a pleasant 10 minute stroll - perhaps the ladies of the gentry used to wander down here when they felt the need for some gentle exercise?
Who knows! Yew Clippings are used in the manufacture of cancer tablets so these ancient trees serve a good purpose.



Teatime loomed so we stopped off at the Hambleton Bakery to buy some sweet treats for our tea. Julian Carter and Tim Hart opened this bakery in 2008 to produce bread for Hambleton Hall and Hart's of Nottingham. They now have many other customers plus retail outlets. Quite a success story for these times of recession. The bakery is set in the middle of nowhere, practically in a field. There breads are made to go back to tasting "good bread" without all the added bits such as olives, onions, poppy seeds etc. It all looks delicious and the lemon tart, fruit and almond tart and the chocolate brownie are all so yummy that we may just require a return visit! To top it all, the lovely lady in the shop hails originally from South Africa and has friends in our home suburb in Cape Town. How is that for a small world? We enjoyed a great chat and she still throws in a few Afrikaans words here and there although they have now lived in Rutland for nearly 24 years.


After all this scrumptious tea, we need some exercise so set off from Barnsdale Country Club to Whitwell, a distance of about 2.5 miles. This walk passes through Barnsdale Woods and is wonderfully peaceful. As there are a number of inclines, I require extra oxygen so have to stop, inhale and swing my arms behind me, then exhale and swing my arms forward. A sheep thought this was just too much, stopped munching to stare at me as if to say "You are crazy, woman!"
To make matters worse, I had to walk like a drunken sailor on a section of the path which is very obviously frequented by these black sheep. It was either that or get back home with very smelly shoes stinking of sheep's pooh. Walking crooked seemed the better option.



The evening has turned out perfectly with such clear skies that we can see the numerous jet trails passing high up above.


Let's hope the weather lasts and that my knees get me out of bed in the morning after all the exercise!

www.discover-rutland.co.uk


© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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18 September 2012

(4) UK - Country Trip to Rockingham Castle and Seaton Viaduct

Rockingham Castle Gardens

Off we set armed with our friendly Tom-Tom. This cheerful British voice keeps us on the curvy, narrow roads of British countryside." Kept left at the round-a-bout, then third exit, or in 300 yards, keep right on the round-a-bout and take the 4th exit or turn around!! Today we had a few "turn around" instructions but more of that later.
As we reached Rockingham fairly early we ventured into Corby to try and find a supermarket. After driving through much of the town, we discovered a huge ASDA. What fun and what a huge variety of goods. With eyes out on stalks, we wandered the aisles and were wishing that Raymond Ackerman's offspring would take some tips and increase the variety in the Pick & Pay stores back home. Perhaps the South Africans are better cooks with more time on their hands but I just loved all the prepared foods available!



Rockingham Castle - what a wonderful outing. It is a must see if you are in the area during the summer months as it is only open Tuesdays and Sundays. Go early when the gates open so that you can wander the amazing rose garden , see the 400 year yr old Yew Hedge, shaped to resemble elephants (I think a couple of whiskeys are required to see the resemblance!)and the New Garden. Once inside the castle, you can climb the very steep and narrow stairway to the top for glorious views across 5 counties on a clear day.
This castle has only been owned by 2 families and is still owned by the Watson family (Denise, where did you go wrong??) This current family have 2 girls of 17 and 15 and a son of nearly 12 (2012) The father works at a bank in London - leaves home at 6.00 am to go to London by train, returning at 19.00 every night. A long day in anybody's book.


The gardens are maintained by 2 or 3 gardeners and one was mowing the vast lawns when we arrived. The roses were still good and the various smells simply divine. The new garden is 3 years old and a sight to behold - the aim is to have small sections of garden with various flowers. The Rose garden has the same shape and size as the original Castle Keep which no longer exists.
The village of Rockingham was moved from it's original position to the current site below the castle. This village is also owned by the Watsons and the original purchase price of 350 pounds included farm land which has since been sold off or rented out. There are currently no houses for rent in the village and one can understand why - it is by far the cutest village we have seen so far.

Charles Dickens was a family friend and often stayed overnight - he was supposed to have seen a lady ghost at the end of the Yew Hedge - perhaps he also saw the elephants?
The interior of the castle is amazing - the kitchen filled with copper pots seemed a bright and cheery place to work - at least it would have been warm in the olden days! The Long Room  was specifically meant for the ladies to take their exercise, has stunning views over the countryside and my gran, who always paced up and down, would have loved it! The library - magnificent. The family quarters are in a separate wing - however, they do use the castle as their home when it is not open to the public. What a way to live in this modern day and age - quite mind-boggling!

The guides were excellent so a thoroughly enjoyable 3 hours.
Rockingham remained my favourite Castle/Stately Home - it has a magical air to it and the gardens are simply gorgeous. I am sure this is a much loved home and not just a commercial venture.
We hope the family will treasure their wonderful home for many more generations to come.



 A quick pub lunch at the Sondes Arms and then off to find the Seaton Viaduct. Rutland , after putting Harrington into the Tom-Tom, we went on a circular drive to nowhere!!!! It should have been Harringworth so take heed, and make sure the driver of the Tom-Tom can spell correctly!

The Seaton Viaduct was eventually found and we took a stroll down a footpath in the icy wind to view this huge structure of  82 arches. It just goes on and on and we could not see the entire length all at once. I wished for a train to make this a special experience as we trudged in the artic wind! Suddenly, James shouted - RUN - there is a train coming! We were not in the best spot at that stage but watching this train was something special - 2 engines and 36 trucks going past - they seemed to go on forever. An epic feat of engineering for the men who built this amazing structure.

Next into the local Tesco's for our supper and then home to relax after a busy and wonderful day.


© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa
www.bradclin.com

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17 September 2012

(3) UK - Falconry Centre, Rockingham and Stoke Dry


Day 3 dawned bright and sunny so out came the shorts. Well - that did last too long and by 10.00 hrs the jeans were back on again!
We were told by Rutland Tourism that the Falconry and Owl Centre was interesting and close by so we made that our first stop. Unless you choose the 20 pound 30 min walk with a bird on your arm, it is not worth the entrance fee. We were not prepared to spend 40 pounds for 30 minutes and the various options were not explained. No demonstration times were displayed and it all seems a bit amateur. There was not much information available on the cages except the bird's name (which they did not respond to anyway!!) and the type of bird e.g. Bengal Owl. The owls all look rather sad but maybe that is their natural look. Having visited our local World of Birds in Cape Town and the Garden of Eden in Plettenberg Bay, we were most disappointed with The Falconry and Own Centre. A suggestion would be that only guided tours are offered so that pertinent information can be given re the birds, where they were found, what their injuries were etc etc.

Next stop was The White Horse in Empingham. A lovely local pub with pretty flowering baskets, tables on the pavement and a cosy section inside. We chose inside as the sun was very erratic and the wind chill required a jacket to be worn! Good service and a varied pub menu had us enjoying potato and watercress soup with a bacon and brie baguette. Delicious!

If one is visiting any of the local "castles" or Heritage houses, don't make the mistake we made. PHONE first to find out if they are open!!! We drove all the way to Rockingham Castle only to discover that it only opens on Tuesdays and Sundays! All was not lost however, as the main street of Rockingham is simply gorgeous! The flower baskets are just over-flowing with flowers in bloom and brighten up the street and quaint houses beautifully. We wandered up and down, the Sondes Arms is an absolute prize winner for exterior blooms - simply magnificent. Their menu also looked good but we had already eaten. Perhaps another day!


Passing down a small lane, we met a lovely elderly lady who served in the Land Army, running the farms during the war years. What a delightful lady who confessed to being extremely nosey - however, we agreed that she should rather class herself as the local Neighbourhood Watch - this sounds much more professional and still allows her to be as nosey as she pleases! With a small, interesting garden, she proudly announced that her roses had won 1st prize in the local village competition. Way to go at that age - I think it's wonderful.



Our last meander was to Stoke Dry, a very posh village with only about 14 houses - rather large ones at that. This village  overlooks Eyebrook reservoir where there are many breeding birds - swans, mallards, teak etc. Fly fishing permits can be obtained and we did see a few boats on the water. It was dead quiet here - not a sound to be heard except for the occasional bird.


On our drive back home we stopped at the Spar in Uppingham to buy some milk - a sign on the door said "Not more than 3 school children may enter at any one time" and "You are being watched by CCTV" Seems crime has reached rural England? A shame in these tiny little villages to see Security Signs all over. One has to assume that they are not there purely for show?

We also seemed to be on a stretch of road where the locals drive too fast - 4 deaths and 27 injuries in the space of 3 years. Slow down please - we all want to remain safe.


© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

16 September 2012

(2) UK - Rutland County - Rocks by Rail and Barnsdale Gardens




Rutland County is the smallest county in England and this was one of the reasons we chose it for our annual holiday this year.
Air-fares have risen lately and we struggled to find a reasonable fare until it was suggested we try SkyScanner which provided a fairly decent price for a British Airways ticket. The time came round fairly quickly and there we were climbing aboard, all set for Heathrow direct from Cape Town. The plane was very full - the staff coped with smiles on their faces. Dinner time came around and the usual "Chicken or Beef" request echoed down the plane. I chose chicken and hungrily opened my pack only to find--------a full English Breakfast!!!! This must surely be a first - English Breakfast for dinner! I decided to eat rather than await the busy staff's return and they were truly shocked when I told them my sorry tale. The expressions on their faces was priceless! Having filled my hunger pains, I was not upset at all but they did offer me more food. Mistakes do happen and this one was so unusual (I hope!) that I just could not complain, nor did I want to. So next time you fly BA remind them not to give you breakfast instead!

The wait for our rental car was long but again, the staff were very pleasant and helpful. The Tom-Tom did not make any mistakes and after a very boring drive on the highway, we located Barnsdale Country Club. With lovely views over Rutland Water it should turn out to be a peaceful and interesting time.

We drove into Oakham Village where many locals were out and about. We popped into a tiny local pub for quick bite to eat.This seems a well-frequented little pub with good pub meals at reasonable prices (for us South African)

Finding Tesco's was a challenge as the sign only faces one way and we were driving from the opposite way. But find it we did and this store will be frequented during our stay here. The variety of prepared meals appears to be much vaster than we get in Cape Town so it will be easier to self-cater at reasonable cost and still have a variety of meals in the village.
Armed with our groceries we headed back to Barnsdale to check in and just about gave the cleaning lady heart-failure as she was still in the unit! So late in the day and she still had 5 units to clean she told us. Poor lady!
After a long flight with no sleep to speak of, we fell into bed rather exhausted - even the wedding racket from the building behind us, did not keep us awake!
Roll on tomorrow when we can start exploring!






It dawned cloudy today - surprise? So I donned my yellow T-Shirt hoping that the sun would take the hint and come out with guns blazing! As you can guess I am the eternal optimist! Our first stop was at Rocks by Rail in Cottesmore - a living Ironstone Museum. Run entirely by volunteers who are very passionate about the part they are playing in this restoration, it was a very interesting experience. The loco drives up to the quarry where the digger is waiting to scoop up the ironstone into the waiting rail trucks. The steam loco is a short ride down the track where it passes the old disused Oakham Canal. The volunteers have opened up a very tiny piece of canal just to show that there was once a canal in the area! The workshop is open for viewing and the projects of restoration are ongoing. Truly fascinating stuff if you are interested in rail and quarry history. With over 20 steam and diesel locos in the process of being restored, it's paradise for enthusiasts. A path has been cleared adjoining the tracks as a nature walk with viewing spots for photographers. Eventually, they hope to have a platform for embarking so one could ride down and walk up or visa versa. The Sundew cafe, which is named after the crane that was used in the quarry, offers free tea or coffee and sandwiches can be bought. All in all, a pleasant morning out. View their web site www.rocks-by-rail.org for further info.

By now we were nearing lunch time so off we set to the Finch's Arms hoping for a pint and a hearty pub lunch. The barman showed us a choice of 2 tables and we ordered our pints. When James requested a menu, we were suddenly told that they were fully booked and could not even give us a sandwich!!!!!! It would have been nice had they told us that in the first place. So we drank our beers rather grumpily and left. As this is also the start of a walk around Rutland Water, we were going to that after lunch. As they say, the best laid plans of mice and men..........!



Barnsdale Gardens were next on our list as we could have a sandwich before exploring the gardens. The sun had sort of come out by this time so it seemed a good omen for a wander amongst the 38 gardens laid out in the 8 acre site. But first to calm the tummy rumbles so we ordered sandwiches in the on-site coffee shop. Big mistake! I have never had such an insipid egg mayonnaise in my entire life - which upset me, as I love egg sandwiches. Is this the British palette's style?

However, the gardens are certainly worth a visit and various little corners have been laid out such as Tranquil Garden, Woodland Walk, A Cottage Garden, Town Paradise Garden, Apple Arch, and best of all, the Rose Garden. The smell of roses pervades the gardens and I would love to bottle the smell as our modern day roses bought in SA have no smell at all. Geoff Hamilton was a passionate horticulturalist and found the Barnsdale site in 1983 where he designed many different gardens which appeared on BBC gardening programmes.

A must visit if you are in the area and love gardens/gardening.



A short walk back at Barnsdale gave us some fast exercise before heading back to our unit to plan tomorrow's trips.

www.discover-rutland.co.uk


© Judelle Drake


For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa
www.bradclin.com

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15 September 2012

(1) Cape Town to UK - Rutland County UK


Rutland County is the smallest county in England and this was one of the reasons we chose it for our annual holiday this year.
Air-fares have risen lately and we struggled to find a reasonable fare until it was suggested we try SkyScanner which provided a fairly decent price for a British Airways ticket. The time came round fairly quickly and there we were climbing aboard, all set for Heathrow direct from Cape Town. The plane was very full - the staff coped with smiles on their faces. Dinner time came around and the usual "Chicken or Beef" request echoed down the plane. I chose chicken and hungrily opened my pack only to find--------a full English Breakfast!!!! This must surely be a first - English Breakfast for dinner! I decided to eat rather than await the busy staff's return and they were truly shocked when I told them my sorry tale. The expressions on their faces was priceless! Having filled my hunger pains, I was not upset at all but they did offer me more food. Mistakes do happen and this one was so unusual (I hope!) that I just could not complain, nor did I want to. So next time you fly BA remind them not to give you breakfast instead!

The wait for our rental car was long but again, the staff were very pleasant and helpful. The Tom-Tom did not make any mistakes and after a very boring drive on the highway, we located Barnsdale Country Club. With lovely views over Rutland Water it should turn out to be a peaceful and interesting time.

We drove into Oakham Village where many locals were out and about. We popped into a tiny local pub for quick bite to eat.This seems a well-frequented little pub with good pub meals at reasonable prices (for us South African)

Finding Tesco's was a challenge as the sign only faces one way and we were driving from the opposite way. But find it we did and this store will be frequented during our stay here. The variety of prepared meals appears to be much vaster than we get in Cape Town so it will be easier to self-cater at reasonable cost and still have a variety of meals in the village.
Armed with our groceries we headed back to Barnsdale to check in and just about gave the cleaning lady heart-failure as she was still in the unit! So late in the day and she still had 5 units to clean she told us. Poor lady!
After a long flight with no sleep to speak of, we fell into bed rather exhausted - even the wedding racket from the building behind us, did not keep us awake!
Roll on tomorrow when we can start exploring!


© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

06 September 2012

South Africa - Hermanus - Champagne Air!


Hermanus  air reminds  one of champagne - bubbly, crisp, and so enjoyable!  Breathe
it in whilst wandering along the world-famous cliff paths. You won't be sorry and a week-end may just not be enough.

We started going to Hermanus on day trips. When my son decided he wanted to study to be a chef at Warwicks Chef's School, it was time to buy a small flat. We spent so many wonderful week-ends in Hermanus, walking the cliff paths, wandering around the many little lanes, full of interesting shops. The week-end markets always attracted many folk with the original arts and crafts on show. It was a great time - whale watching from August to October, long walks in Fernkloof Nature Reserve, walks up to Hoy's Koppie, the Grotto beach walk plus the cliff paths which stretch for  miles and give one time to contemplate and be at one with nature. The swimming is great in summer and there are a number of surfing spots.

Warwicks Chef School was a good choice and my son came top of the class. His reward was a stint with Roger Verge in France. However, this did not go quite as well as planned - having been dropped at the restaurant he then had to find his way to his lodging in the dark and not speaking a word of French. The cops eventually found him wandering, stressed and very alone in the early hours of the morning. By doing some back-tracking, they eventually found where he was staying! Not a good start to his career. He did decide to pack up cheffing after reaching the position of Head Chef at the very prestigious Singita Lebombo so all ended well. But I digress.....




After starting my B&B in Cape Town in 2004, those wonderful free week-ends came to a grinding halt - sadly. We recently spent a week-end back in the town and saw many, many changes. Hermanus has now become another "mall" town with a new shopping centre plus another in the process of being built, right next door. So the malls have reached Hermanus which may be great for the locals but, to my mind, this detracts from the cute shopping of previous years. A mall is a mall, is a mall and you can shop at the same stores all over South Africa. Once inside who knows where you are - Rustenburg or Canal Walk or Hermanus? It's called progress. The little villages in the country are getting harder to find and I suppose progress is natural and welcomed by most. It is still a town with the best whale-watching, the best air, gorgeous beaches, an exciting vibe during summer, pleasant winter walks and good, if perhaps now boring, shopping!

The Craft Market on the square is currently more formalised with permanent structures so goods stay dry, restaurants are numerous, some better than others, the whale crier can be found blowing his kelp horn when he spots a whale and people are friendly. Hermanus is known to be one of the best land-based whale watching sites in the world and the hundreds of people that line the cliff paths during whale season, with their binoculars and cameras, are a sight to see and a pleasant "people-watching" experience. The oohs and aahs echo far and wide as a whale is spotted. Seeing a whale breach is an exceptional experience and well worth the wait.

Our host for the week-end was the very first Curator of the Old Harbour Museum which opened in 1972. Guy Clark was appointed in 1973 and spent many years working on his passion. The harbour buildings have been restored, old fishing boats are lined up, bokkom stands still exist and it's a slice of history that has been well-preserved. Now it's Provincial Heritage site label is well deserved. The Easter Passion Play is held annually in the Old Harbour and attracts thousands of visitors.

Rotary Way is reached by turning left as you enter Hermanus and this drive offers the most wonderful views of Hermanus. An icy wind is often blowing up here so dress warmly and venture out of your car to survey the layout of the town and see the beach at Grotto stretching for many miles.



Another view-point, albeit slightly lower and smaller, is Hoy's Koppie which is now smack-bang in the middle of town (courtesy of the mall!) The path up is quite steep but allows for good exercise and offers great views over the town. The grave of Sir William Hoy and his wife have possibly one of the best grave view sites in South Africa and one can only wonder at their final resting place in such a scenic location.

Fernkloof Nature Reserve is a hikers paradise with many paths for various fitness levels.


Again gorgeous views over Hermanus, beautiful flora and exercise!!! Who could ask for more?


The Hermanus Municipality is not very kind to property owners who are heavily penalised if they dare to let out even one week of their holiday cottage. Business rates apply if one's property is let for just one week of the 52 week year whereas property owners who let their units out for 12 months of the year to locals, are not subject to business rates. Discrimination?  Very much so and rather off-putting for investors looking to save for a retirement option.


During the peak of summer, Hermanus town centre is sometimes a best forgotten place unless you want to jostle for parking, which is mostly paid. However, with the new road system, you can by-pass this congestion and head out towards the beaches via another road.

Despite the town's rapid progress from a small fishing village, it is still "must-do" place, especially in whale season.  Active folk will not get bored with so many activities on their doorstep, and the town appeals to a broad spectrum of people from all walks of live. Be as busy or as lazy as the mood takes but breathe in deeply - you won't find this brand of air anywhere else!!!!


 
I met an interesting and versatile artist packing up his incredible shop - things perhaps to slow for artists in this town now? They have a mall, after all!! The artist was heading off to India to "find himself" and what better place to do so? I wish him the very best of luck and hope that his artistic talents find a lucrative and self-satisfying outlet.

Hermanus history goes back to the early 1800's when farmers from Caledon trekked by ox-wagon to spend the summer at the seaside. Good fishing and the famous "champagne air"  meant that even Harley Street doctors prescibed a visit to Hermanus as a great place for patients to convalesce.

Hermanuspietersfontein became too cumbersome and the name was changed to Hermanus in the early 1900's. The Marine Hotel was buit in 1902 and was well patronised by the English gentry of that time. The hotel has seen many changes but is still a landmark today. The Windsor Hotel was originally a sanatorium for wealthy overseas convalescents. William Hoy decided that he did not want the railway to extend to Hermanus from Bot River so he managed to block progress on that front. The Hermanus Station was therefore "trainless" and now forms part of the new shopping precinct.

Trust me, the champagne air is world-renowed and you will feel much refreshed after some time spent in this lively town.

Hermanus has progressed from the early 1800's but still retains the beauty in the surrounding mountains, the lovely beaches and the charm is still evident in this "must visit" seaside town.





© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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02 September 2012

South Africa - Waylands Flower Reserve, West Coast

Waylands Flower Reserve - Floral Beauty West Coast
(August & September) 


West Coast Flowers need the sun to show off their delicate beauty and today was just the right day for flower viewing with bright blue skies, a moderate wind and brilliant sunshine. We decided to visit Waylands Flower Reserve which is outside of Darling on the West Coast. Delicate and tiny flowers need to be viewed close by and the fields of yellow, white and mauve flowers make an appealing sight for city dwellers cooped up in offices all week long.

This 80 ha reserve is purely seasonal and is supposed to host around 300 species of flowers. It was turned into a reserve in 1922 by Frederick Duckett and the road was built in 1952 by his son. Cattle and sheep graze here during the summer months and in autumn they are moved elsewhere allowing the flowers to grow and bloom for their brilliant display in August and September. The animals are returned to the reserve after the flowers have all died off! An amazing conserservation effort which has been ongoing for approx. 140 years - hats off to the owners of this land that it has been allowed to remain as a West Coast gem and that the stunning flora of the region has been allowed to grow undisturbed. Displays do vary depending on good rains prior to flowering.



There was heavy rain on Friday so the reserve was very wet in many places - have you ever got slurped down a mud hole? It's quite a crazy feeling - whoops, the shoe goes down and you are stuck! Whip it out and carry on only to go down with a huge slurp and sucking sound - this time even deeper so that your shoe has vanished! Oh Sh.... and I still have to go to a restaurant for lunch? I haul my right foot out of this deep mud and slowly venture forth. No - the mud has not given up on me yet and down I go again. By this time, I feel like a royal idiot and start looking around for spectators. Luckily everybody is too far away except for a couple who are looking at me in amazement. What is she doing? So very slowly I venture forth again and whoops, another hole and even more mud. I must say at this poiint that these holes are not visible and the earth looks fine until you step on it! By now I am feeling like a total idiot so VERY carefully I try and aim for dry land.

Once back on the path I have to explain my muddy state to all the friendly people along the road - their kids are cleaner than I am.

It's a topic of conversation anyway and I hope my shoes will recover in the wash tomorrow!






© Judelle Drake


For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa


15 August 2012

South Africa - Hemel & Aarde Valley - Hermanus Wine Route

Hemel & Aarde - Hermanus Wine Route

Wine Lovers, photographers, food-loving people, this valley is truly worth a visit. 
This valley, named Heaven and Earth, is a magical place which runs for about 6.7km amidst truly beautiful vistas with many wine farms along the way. The road eventually reaches Caledon - however, the wine route only extends as far as Seven Springs. 
The weather was not great on the day we visited - still worth it!
The valley is famous for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and has been likened to North France because of the clay soil and ocean breezes.

If you really fall in love with the valley, there are homes for sale at a price!





The route starts at Hermanuspietersfontein Wine Shop where you can also enjoy a Saturday Market between 09.00 and 13.00 hrs. Their farm is closer to Stanford.
The "Wine Village Shop" at the start of route R320 is truly a "library" of wines and they are open 7 days a week with free wine tastings. If you can drag yourself out of there, then head off up the valley! Make sure your credit card is handy.

Next up is Southern Right, Hamilton Russel, Ashbourne, Bouchard Finlayson, La Vierge, Sumeridge, Newton Johnson, Restless River, (that name just resonates with me) Spookfontein, Ataraxia, Creation, Mount Babylon, Jacob's Vineyards, Domaine des Dieux and Seven Springs.


As with any wine route, one has to choose as it is impossible to sample all the wines in one day unless you are looking to be locked up in the Hermanus cells till a Monday morning. Sort of difficult to explain to your boss why you won't be at work? So take a stab at the names and choose 1 or 2 farms to stop at.
We decided on Hamilton Russel - a beautiful and tranquil setting, overlooking a dam. With a roaring fire inside the tasting Room, on a cold day, it was a good stop. Tim Hamilton Russel purchased the property in 1975, his son, Anthony Hamilton Russel took over in 1991 and purchased the estate in 1994. HR only do Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and the wines are not cheap. Their  "Southern Right" label is less expensive.




Our next stop was Sumeridge Estate. The Tasting Room is impressively set within the stone-clad walls of an long, regal looking building. They also have a cosy restaurant for light meals, with outdoor seating during summer.  

By now, we were feeling somewhat peckish so decided to try out Mogg's Country Cookhouse for an authentic Hemel & Aarde experience. This restaurant is tucked away off the main R320 - signposted though and don't be put off by the dirt track and tiny building. The dogs will greet you and lead the way to the door which could be tightly shut on a cold day. This restaurant was taken over 17 years ago by a mother an daughter team and they have very obviously succeeded in getting the mix right. Cosy and warm and very busy after a 2 week holiday, they were rather phased by the tripping lights but the problem was sorted out promptly! Artist influence can be seen in the painting of fowls adorning the doors and walls plus many other displays of talent. The Pine cone ceiling was apparently in place when they purchased the restaurant and this adds another quirky feel to the place. With a mix of tourists and many locals (judging by the conversations) it's a successful venture and one we can highly recommend. The food was good, the service attentive and the ambiance just what we needed.

There is certainly enough on this wine route to keep everybody happy and being so close to Hermanus, it is an ideal day out when visited the seaside town. In summer, it's an escape from the crowds on the beach, in winter, what could be better than some roaring fires, wine tasting and valley cooking?


© Judelle Drake


For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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05 August 2012

Bloggers are not NERDS!!!

Who said Bloggers are NERDS??? Well, I suppose that is debatable when we spend so much time writing about ourselves and our travels in the hope that somebody out there will enjoy our ramblings and perhaps even "follow" us on our travels. Or, better still, make some nice comments!

Blogging started in the late 1990's and was mainly used by individuals up until as recently as 2009.
For many the journey started as an online diary for friends and family and perhaps to ease the concerned families whilst their offspring went back-packing all over the globe.

Today blogging is a buzz word that has everybody wanted a slice of the pie. And why not?
It's fun, you get to share your experiences online with many people in various countries and maybe, they too, will be inspired to travel more and start their own blog. It's the way of the future and personal experience of a country is always better to rely on rather than a rather boring and factual guide-book. Don't get me wrong, guide books play a very important role in travel and I doubt they will ever become redundant but reading a number of blogs about a destination you may want to visit, gives you a first-hand account from people of all walks of life and these stories are shaping the Internet.

I was privileged to be able to attend the 2nd Getaway Blogging Conference held at Upper Eastside Hotel in Woodstock, Cape Town on 04/08/2012 and I can only say "WOW" Blogging has become a profession for many bloggers who have been blogging for 4 years or more and they are lucky enough to be able to travel to many wonderful and inspiring destinations. Amazingly, I learnt that there are International Blogging Conferences held. Time to start saving.......!

Being a "newbie" to blogging (only just a year now) I was enthralled by 4 International bloggers who had been invited to Cape Town by Cape Town Tourism (see what I mean - expenses paid by somebody else!!!)

Keith Jenkins of Velvet Escape - who is unashamedly into luxury travel. Keith is based in Amsterdam, Netherlands and started life in the banking sector. He was not entirely happy with his life and this sector collapsed in 2008, ending his career path. His love of travel and photography started him on his journey of blogging and he has made a huge success of this.

Nellie Huang is a tiny slip of a girl with a passion for adventure so her blog, Wild Junket, focuses on all things linked to crazy adventure stuff. She lives with her husband in Spain, WHEN they are home, which is not often. She was a pleasure to talk to with a bubbly personality.

Matt Long of Landlopers (this is Afrikaans for Land Walkers!) - the English meaning is an "adventurer" which is what Matt professes to be. Very truly American, I am sure he has inspired many Americans to get out of their "USA is bigger and better than anywhere else" mode and start travelling to different parts of the globe. Even if USA is "bigger and better" there are other wild, beautiful, freezing, over-populated, under-populated, or just plain "wow" places to be explored and enjoyed. Having been to USA from San Franscisco right up to Seattle, along the West Coast, and New York on the East, with its endless noise and bustle, Cape Town CBD did look VERY tiny on my return home, so I can relate to the Yanks thinking "bigger" but not always better!

Melvin Boecher has made a name for himself with his very popular web site, Travel Dudes. Apparently, this started after a 3 month journey to Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. Their web site is extremely informative and a passion has turned into a thriving business.  Melvin is very much into Social Media and rattles of words like Facebook,Twitter, Instagram, StumbleUpon, Google+, Pininterest, Flickr. Where does he find the time for all this???

All 4 of these international travellers kept us enthralled by their stories and made my feet extremely itchy to get out there and do more.

There were numerous other speakers who shared their expertise - it was total and overwhelming brain overload - yet so great to be part of something that is exploding today on the Internet. Maybe our stories will outlive us all and become a small part of history.

With my passion for photography, which is an ongoing challenge and always needs improvement, I hope to satisfy the childhood dream of becoming a journalist by rather becoming a better blogger. The journalist "thing" no longer excites me but travel does and sharing makes the experience live on in my memory forever.

Technology has advanced so fast and so quickly in the past few years, that it is a challenge to keep up with all the modern terms - one wonders who came up with the term "Blog" and "Blogger"
We are living and breathing our own history and it is changing minute by minute in this fast-paced realm of the Internet where information is live within seconds and can be shared world-wide. This connectivity can be an extremely powerful tool if used in a positive way. Travel Bloggers are surely the most positive, happy and friendly people - who travels to be miserable?? This connects us to others  and spreads goodwill around the globe - with great results. Perhaps the politicians need to take some lessons in how to spread good cheer and well-being without any bribery or corruption, something rife in many countries today. 

I now wear the badge with pride - even if I am still a rank amateur - I am proud to call myself a "Blogger"!!!!

If you intend visiting Cape Town, you can support me in my "work-to travel" day job of running my "Bradclin Portfolio Accommodation" business by booking with us - every night booked means that my next travel plan gets a tiny, little step closer..........!!!

We love guests nearly as much as travel so that means we would truly love having you to stay!

www.bradclin.com

Please join me on my journeys by becoming a "follower" on this blog and by "liking" our web page and Bradclin Portfolio Facebook page.

You can also tweet at @bradclin1


For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

17 July 2012

South Africa - Stanford - Old Timer Village



Forget about a "Time Capsule" blasting into the future, think 1930's and Stanford, just 23km or so from Hermanus, in the Western Cape, comes to mind, A place where you need to "land" for a relaxing look  into the past.  We all struggle keeping up with today's fast-moving technology - tablet meant a pill for a head-ache when I was growing up -  now it is a sophisticated piece of computer equipment, small enough to fit into a hand-bag. Gone are the days of those huge rooms which were required to house the "computer" ! We don't want to go back to those times as we all love the modern technology - my favourite being my Kindle. However, for peace and quiet and a step back in time, Stanford is well worth a visit.

This village has the Klein (small) River running through it and there is a pleasant, short trail along the river. Do look out for the dog pooh as the local residents don't seem to "poop scoop" You can canoe, swim or just laze by the river during summer. The "African Queen" offers cruises down river with a minimum of 20 people. The source of the river is in the Hemel-n-Aarde Valley, just outside of Hermanus and the river winds its way along mountains before reaching Stanford and then flows 15 more km towards the Hermanus Lagoon. Birds, apparently are frequent - it was perhaps too cold on our visit to see many. The feathered kind, that is.



The town is named after Captain Robert Stanford who was born in 1805. He bought a farm in this district and was very successful until 1845 when many Irish were banished to the Cape after the severe famine and failed rebellion. Captain Stanford heeded a call for mercy for the Irish who had been at sea for over 5 months. Unfortunately, the Stanford family was severely ostracised for his actions. This resulted in the death of one of his children as the local doctor refused medical care when called upon. It seems barbaric that a doctor could turn a blind eye to a sick child, but he did just that. Stanford returned to England to put forward his case and this resulted in him being knighted and receiving a pay-out of 5000.00 pounds - a huge sum in those days. However, on his return to SA he found that his land had been illegally sold and his farm no longer belonged to him. The family returned to the UK where Sir Stanford died a pauper in Manchester at age 70.  Not a tale to be proud of and a sad beginning to a town which is so "olde worlde"

The Village Green is still just that - a huge piece of land surrounded by
'old" houses. One can just imagine a game of cricket on a lazy summer afternoon! Dating back to 1785, the Green is still used for events and markets.

The old-fashioned way of getting water to all the houses, still exists in Stanford and this is called "lei water" (water that is led or water lead).The sloots (furrows) run along the road and are controlled by small sluices - one is usually advised of the time of your "turn" at the water. As a child we had the same  system in Oudtshoorn and I remember my father having to get up at 03.00 to water the garden as water was so precious in the hot, dry climate of our town. He always cursed but never let a "water-lead" go by. It was more than his life was worth!

Stanford has a number of art and antique shops - worthy of a browse - who knows what you may turn up. We loved the art displayed on the pavement - amazing works for those with enough money to buy!

There are a number of restaurants in Stanford and surrounds - we choose @Art for a warm and inviting atmosphere with the walls adorned with art works. Great pizzas made in a wood-burning pizza oven and a number of chalk-board Sunday Specials. Good value for money.


The village was declared a conservation area in 1996 and this has preserved many buildings; some of which date 100 - 300 years old. The charm of the village is best seen on foot so take a slow walk along the streets of the village to admire the old achitectural styles of yesteryear. The pace of life here slows you down so much that you may not want to return to the hectic pace of the city. For myself, the country is great for a visit and some much needed R&R, but give me the city lights any time.

We did not have time to visit the Birkenhead Brewery or the Cheese Farm where picnics came be enjoyed during the summer months.

A spot certainly worth a week-end or more. Bring your cycles, your binoculars, your fishing rods and your credit cards!




© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

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22 June 2012

South Africa - Worcester and Surrounds



A small-holding in the fresh country air sounded like a great idea so off we set on a week-end meander to Worcester and surrounds, about 2 hours from Cape Town. Firstly, take the old road over Du Toits Kloof Pass - it's a very scenic road over the mountains and does not add more than about 12 km to your journey plus you save on the Toll Fee for the tunnel. My love for mountains is inspired by growing up in the Oudtshoorn valley where my eyes rested on the magnificent Swartberg Mountain range every time I walked onto our large veranda or into the garden.

Our stay was on a small holding, which bordered on a wine farm, so we took long walks down the farm road, followed by a friendly black Scottie dog. We saw many ground squirrel holes but no signs of life although our little friend certainly did loads of sniffing and most probably drove them further away down the hole for safety!




 Our first outing was to the Karoo Desert National Botanical Gardens. This garden is at it's best during springtime when all the vygies and fynbos flower and create a stunning display. There are lovely views over towards Worcester, picnic areas on the lawns and a hiking trail around the "koppie"  Unfortunately, the folk of Worcester are not the "eating out" types and the restaurant at the entrance to the gardens has closed down. So we would not recommend a visit to these gardens unless it is springtime with all the lovely flowers blooming. The gardens  are also quite difficult to find - it seems the Worcester residents are not too keen on tourism and are quite happy with their status quo.

The Quiver Trees are large Aloes which flower during the winter months. These trees are normally found in very arid regions such as Namibia, and the Northern Cape, often in rocky habitats. The flowers attract nectar seeking birds such as sun-birds and mouse birds. It's a succulent plant which can store water in it's trunk and leaves for those harsh periods when little or no rain falls in the desert.
The San people used to hollow out the branches to use them as quivers, hence the English name for the "Kokerboom" tree.

The wild grape is another interesting plant found in the gardens - these are about 25 years old and were grown from seed gathered in Namibia.


Our next trip was via a dirt road through Eilandia region in the direction of  Robertson.  A very scenic drive through farmlands.

Robertson was very busy and will be another visit (it seems to have more going for it than Worcester!)





We had to find the Conradie Family Cellar before close as we had orders from Cape Town folk! This family vineyard is situated in the Nuy Valley, at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains, and the farm has been in the family since 1871. It is currently run by a fifth generation winemaker who took over wine making again in 2004 after his grand-father last produced in 1964. A proud tradition and award winning wines are now currently on sale.  The Nuy Restaurant and Guest House is situated just across the road and we were after a light lunch. Although there were many cars parked in the parking area, nobody was around to assist us and the restaurant was all beautifully set with nobody in sight!! Another disappointment! But at least we had the wines safely in the boot! By now we were starving after just muesli for breakfast so we headed off towards the Willow Creek Olive Estate and Deli. Guess what? The restaurant was securely locked and barred and even the lady in the next door Deli said " Gosh, they did not even say good-bye!!!"

So off we set again with stomachs rumbling and getting grumpier by the minute. With all the wine farms around but no food? One cannot live on wine alone. Although some make argue with me on that point. The charming lady in the Deli recommended Overhex Wine Cellar for lunch so off we set once again.

Over-Hex was OPEN - HURRAY - FOOD IN WORCESTER!! We managed to secure a table outside in the brilliant sunshine and enjoyed their home-made burgers. For the beer lovers - they don't have any so be warned - only wine. The burgers were very filling, tasty and the service was excellent so this restaurant certainly gets my vote. The menu is very limited but, hey, they serve food and they were OPEN!!! Apparently, their Sunday lunches are very popular and the inside seating looks welcoming and cosy. 

Tummies filled, we set off to see if there were still autumn leaves in the wonderful Hex River Valley. It's not very far from Worcester on the N1 and the valley is simply incredible.

Hex River Valley is world-renowned as the biggest producer of table grapes in South Africa. It also hosts the biggest pre-cooler in the Southern Hemisphere. Grapes need to be transported to their markets so, in order to do this with minimum damage, the grapes need to be pre-cooled before being packed and delivered/shipped etc. The De Doorns Cellar also has the longest harvest season in the world. The Matroosberg Mountain is the highest mountain peak in the Western Cape.
Originally, there were 6 farmers granted land in the Hex River Valley. Today this has been sub-divided into nearly 150. The valley is just row upon row of vines with the staff housing dotted on the edge of the fields. It was a sunny Saturday afternoon and we saw loads of children happily playing, women and young girls chatting whilst walking between various farm housing, the elderly sitting in the sun  - the sad part was also many drunken men staggering around. We spotted a "Temporary Shelter for Abused Children" - no doubt caused by drunken parents. It's such a shame to see this in a valley which is appears so scenic, tranquil and calm.on the outside. Many of the farm workers houses boasted spanking brand new solar panels for their hot water and, with the mountains surrounding them and the amazing autumn colours on the vines, one would think it was a little slice of heaven. Maybe not for those who dream of escaping the confines of the valley.


For hikers and bikers, there are numerous trails in this part of the world - for photographers, the Hex River Valley is a dream. For those looking to eat out at funky restaurants all week-end, as an escape from the home kitchen, forget!! You will have to travel to Robertson, McGregor or Franschoek.



© Judelle Drake

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa